dskinsler83

Did you chamfer the edges of the follower?

the gen3 slide will work fine on a Gen4 frame. They sell an adapter to close what little gap there is but it isnt a big deal.

Agency arms (I think) also has a new plate system. You send your slide to them to cut it and add a plate. There are multiple options for the plate.

Just get you a lonewolf gen3 G34 slide and have them mill it.

STI no longer sells just frame slide parts last I heard.

Not sure if this helps here but I noticed my GLS Safariland works on my P80 grip pistols so they may work with the OZ

Shooters Connection sells them

To my knowledge yes he is.

You can try maritime cups, and you could just slightly relieve the end point of your safety tab but that is a last resort type thing there. Also if the connector is at an extreme angle out from the housing can cause some bind/drag on the trigger bar. Remember to use a good lubricious grease not just plain oil as it eventually seeps away as grease stays.

The increased power trigger return spring works against the 4.5lb striker spring. The lighter plunger spring can also attribute to this. As suggested by Rooster return to stock return spring. Unfortunately people really dont think about how a glock is basically one giant set of counter acting springs that work the trigger mechanics.

It doesnt move like that. The barrel moves around the locking lug and locking block. The guide rod gets sandwiched between the frame guide rod channel and slide so the slide has something to give it momentum. The barrel has to move to have freedom to lock and unlock during cycles. Or you can just grab an extra long guide rod, let it go up into your comp and see what it does?

I dont even know where this comes from lol. The Glock bulge was on the first and second 40s lol. Seriously.

Going up into the comp is not a good idea. The barrel tilts and you could end up causing a binding issue.

They have almost certainly chAnged the pivot point at the trigger if they are advising against aftermarket connectors and springs.

This

Its will vary based on YOUR accuracy and speed. You loose about 3 rds per mag going to 40 and of course the recoil impulse change. If you shoot all alphas as faster than the guy who shoots A/Cs more at the same speed you win. If you shoot slower you loose, if you A/C and he shoots A/C he wins unless you completely blister his time but the general consensus is that Major PF is the better option.

I like em. Of course (and I got your pm as well) everyone is different. Having a truly adjusted rear is where the difference is in the long slide pistols. Once you tune it to your load and figure it out it is quite fun.

Who came up with the G34.5 stuff or G??.5? Its a Gen 5 G34 lol.

Do what ya want but LW shoots as good as the others. You just pay less. I have tried them all and unless you are trying to build a bullseye gun the accuracy difference is nill. Until you get to where splits and one alpha is all that separates you from the championship then dont worry and just shoot and train

Hahaha um bought no, I did refine the lug face though

CCI is all I ever run and have LIGHT trigger pulls with LIGHT striker springs. But I lightened the striker for my Gen5 also.

They seem to fall out of the Gen 5s commonly. Just put it back in with the bevel towards the breach. There will be drag in it, that is the reason people use the maritime cups. Anyways, you should NOT be having light strikes with a 5lb spring. There are so many factors in a trigger that change weight etc. anyways. Good luck

Soooo...just by simple mechanical logic, how can one INCREASE the length of the safety tab and SHORTEN the pre travel? I honestly believe everyone has a different meaning or definition of pre travel.

Exactly