wide45 Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Some of the local guys used to fill the comps with Liquid Wrench the night before shooting. Claimed it loosened the crud, and the first few shots would clean it right out. Never had the opportunity to try it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 I tape the surface of the comp and get the ball on the dremel and go to town. 5-10mins and it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexor40cal Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 So I also have to ask, is it important to clean inside the comp, does leaving it dirty effect the efficiency of it, does being cleaned out make it work better? I am a little wary of taking a dremel to it, especially around holes on the barrel facing side of the chamber walls, as that is where all the work is done, pairing off the gasses from the end of the barrel, I should imagine if this area is modified it will change the characteristics of the comp all together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 (edited) So I also have to ask, is it important to clean inside the comp, does leaving it dirty effect the efficiency of it, does being cleaned out make it work better?I am a little wary of taking a dremel to it, especially around holes on the barrel facing side of the chamber walls, as that is where all the work is done, pairing off the gasses from the end of the barrel, I should imagine if this area is modified it will change the characteristics of the comp all together? There are people much better qualified to answer this than me, but I'll take a stab and they can correct me if I am in error. The lead builds up in there and will change the angle and or defuse the gasses as they are expelled from the comp. The gas needs to be directed and not defused to do the most good. If you get some strange build up in there it could push the gun at an angle instead of the 90deg you want. You want it pushing straight down or even at an angle, but one that is symmetrical on both sides (like popples) Would it still work? Yes, would it be as efficient? No. Also the lead will build to a point where it will actually hit the bullet on it's way out of the barrel. You will see this when you first round starts going high and then settles on subsequent shots. I have a Titanium comp and am not to worried about the tool steel messing it up, but you use your head when you are in there grinding. I stay away from the barrel crown as there isn't much there anyway. If needed I will pick that out with a dental tool. I've shot 20K through this gun many of them exposed rears and I have only had to clean it twice. Edited December 30, 2007 by JThompson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x21 Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Just have another Comp gun build, It is much easier then cleaning them! seriously, I have had no real built up using jacketed Zero's in my Bedell build race pistols. Have someone check your comp / barrel alignment, maybe you getting "shavings"! How are you groups?, any fliers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexor40cal Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Just have another Comp gun build, It is much easier then cleaning them! seriously, I have had no real built up using jacketed Zero's in my Bedell build race pistols. Have someone check your comp / barrel alignment, maybe you getting "shavings"! How are you groups?, any fliers? I am having no issues with it shooting, no high ones, no shavings, no key holeing, I was looking at cleaning it prior to starting to get any problems, but once I thought a bout it more and heard that most manually go at it, started to wonder if it was worth it. I think it would be worth it rather than buy a new one, these Ti comp's are a little pricey, some of my shooting buddies have comp's you can physically see the lead build up, mine is mainly GPR build up, but wanted to prevent it getting bad and a beast to try to clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Soak the comp with Shooter's Choice overnight, then scrape it with a small screwdriver. Mike Plaxco used to recommend a couple drops of Break Free before shooting. OOOPSSS....I don't think many people here rememeber Mike Plaxco! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Hi there. This has been talked about before There is some discussion about using H2O2 and something else. That Blue Wonder stuff that they keep giving us at Area 2 seem to make more easy to pick the crap out. Happy New Year, Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmca Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Try Harborfreight.com for cheap ultrasonic cleaners.This link is a little more direct ....... http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/...c&Submit=Go Chris, Have you used one of the HF cleaners? Later, Chuck I'm not Chuck but.... I've got and used that cleaner. I think it's cheaper than the industrial models because it doesn't come with a heating element. The fluid does get warm if you run it for a few minutes. It doesn't take out the lead or copper but it does a pretty good job on powder residue and grease. I strip the gun, run it for a few minutes in the cleaner, rinse the degreaser off, blow it dry then soak it in diesel fuel. It leaves an oily film that helps with rust. I haven't had to get lead out of my comp since I made the switch to JHP's. It sure left a lot of lead in the comp using lead bullets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Mod: Merged a bunch of "comp cleaning" threads. If you're new to picking-and-scraping, you might want to go back to page 1 of this thread and start reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX1166 Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Not sure if my Pro Sx comp doesn't get that dirty since I don't seem to have much trouble cleaning it. I dunk the comp in a bottle of good ole #9 while I'm cleaning the rest of the gun. Then I get the stuff that accumulates on the bottom with a square ended dental pick and hit the sides with a .22 caliber bore brush. It does a nice job of getting the fouling out of those areas. I may dunk again to clear out the crap dislodge with the pick then hose it down with Gun Scrubber. Comes out nice and clean (or clean to where I'm happy with it). I'm way too dangerous with a Dremel to even touch Bob's work.... That was an interesting time warp...hit the post button just as the threads were merged... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RH45 Posted January 20, 2008 Author Share Posted January 20, 2008 I picked up a bottle of the Hoppe's Elite that somebody said worked well, and eventhough I haven't tried it in my comp, I did try it on some carbon build up that's on the back of the bolt from one of my AR15s and it doesn't seem to do anything. I suppose the next time I order from Midway, I'll try some of that carbon cutter that's sold by slip 2000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al503 Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 I suppose the next time I order from Midway, I'll try some of that carbon cutter that's sold by slip 2000. Slip 2000 didn't do jack for me. If you still have to try it out, get the small bottle. I got the big one and now it's just taking up space. I got some Hoppe's Elite but still haven't tried it. Doesn't sound too promising though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RH45 Posted January 21, 2008 Author Share Posted January 21, 2008 I suppose the next time I order from Midway, I'll try some of that carbon cutter that's sold by slip 2000. Slip 2000 didn't do jack for me. If you still have to try it out, get the small bottle. I got the big one and now it's just taking up space. I got some Hoppe's Elite but still haven't tried it. Doesn't sound too promising though. Thanks for the advice, I was going to buy a quart, but, maybe I should just find somebody that has an ultrasonic, parts cleaner and see if that works?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrueDoubleTaper Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 Might want to just pay someone 15 bucks to put it in an ultra sonic cleaner.... This loosens it up and it comes out with a little less work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gallow Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 I'm not Chuck but.... I've got and used that cleaner. I think it's cheaper than the industrial models because it doesn't come with a heating element. The fluid does get warm if you run it for a few minutes. It doesn't take out the lead or copper but it does a pretty good job on powder residue and grease. I strip the gun, run it for a few minutes in the cleaner, rinse the degreaser off, blow it dry then soak it in diesel fuel. It leaves an oily film that helps with rust. I haven't had to get lead out of my comp since I made the switch to JHP's. It sure left a lot of lead in the comp using lead bullets What cleaning fluid do you put in your Harbor Freight cleaning gizmo? It says not to use anything flammable. Would Brownell's D'SOLVE be good? I don't think it would attack lead, but would it be compatable with the ultrasonic unit? Or just soap and water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcmesa Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 (edited) I am new to open so here it goes. I just got a roy schmidt 9 major gun. shot some lead through it on purpose. The gun has a bedell ti comp on it . I used the 50/50 mix which worked pretty good but then i didnt have a brush to get in there and scrub . I took a 22 cal copper rifle brush and bent it into a u shape worked like a charm. Edited January 24, 2008 by wcmesa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmca Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 I just use Simple Green but then nothing on my gun is aluminum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan550 Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 I've been using a medical needle holder with a small strip of Scotch-Brite pad soaked in Shooter's Choice. Works great and after cleaning, I always put some oil in the comp to help soften up the carbon from the first few shots. Makes it a little smokey on the first few rounds, but it cleans up really easily afterwards. Alan~^~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 No longer considered ecologically proper and there are a few minor medical concerns, but mercury will remove lead. This was the standard way to de-lead a barrel 45-50 years ago. Plug the barrel with a stopper, pour in a little mercury and plug the other end, slosh back and forth a bit, pour out and clean as usual. No lead. Would likely work if one were to dunk the comp in a dish of mercury, but aquring, storing and properly containing the vapors probably makes this method less than economically feasible. Jim 'Quicksilver' Norman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedmonger Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 for those using a Dremel tool - what dremel attachment you suggest for minimal invasiveness/maximum effectiveness ? thanks I bought a used open gun in .38 super, a while back that the previous owner had apparently shot lead through, because the comp has lead in it. I scrapped the biggest chunks out, with a jewler's screwdriver, then tried soaking it in mineral spirits for a week, thinking that may soften it up, or help release it. That didn't help, a bit.I then soaked it in Kroil for a week with no apparent results. Anybody out there any ideas?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan550 Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 An update since my January post..... and Dillon's gonna love this one!! Spray some Dillon Case Lube in the comp before shooting, and again after every 50 rds or so. Then again before you bag the gun for the trip home. Shooter's Choice, some cotton swabs and some light scrubbing with the Scotch-Brite pads mentioned earlier, and I spend a total of about 3 minutes getting it looking new!! All the way to bare metal in that time! Works like nothing else!! Alan~^~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 for those using a Dremel tool - what dremel attachment you suggest for minimal invasiveness/maximum effectiveness ? thanks 1/8" brass chisel bit http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=558333 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry cazes Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Hmm. You mean you have to clean your comp ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecichlid Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 For heavy carbon build up I use SLiP 2000 and let it soak into the carbon for an hour or two and use a rounded screwdriver to scrape it out. Joe W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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