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Comp Cleaning


RH45

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Get a length of 1/8" brass rod from the hardware store. Chop off a couple inches and put a chisel point on one end. Chuck in the dremel and go to town. Resharpen as needed. Hold a feeler gauge over the muzzle when working on the first port.

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Get a length of 1/8" brass rod from the hardware store. Chop off a couple inches and put a chisel point on one end. Chuck in the dremel and go to town. Resharpen as needed. Hold a feeler gauge over the muzzle when working on the first port.

That sounds sufficiently scary.... to make me want to try it... :lol:

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I used Blue Wonder. Just let it sit for a while. You may want to try that before risking a Dremel.

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try & report the results.

Edited by Joseph796
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I did a test a while back with all the free solvent samples I'd collected in shooter packets over the years, and by far the best at soaking out comps was the new Hoppes 'elite', but it still took forever..

Here's the thread, including a non-dremel powered alternative or two: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...019&hl=comp

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  • 3 months later...
Soaking in Hoppes works. But, if the comp is threaded onto the barrel, it will eat away any loctite or epoxy and the comp will come loose. Don't let the lead build up too much and use the dental picks.

I took a regular small screw and rounded the ends to contour the comp and scrap it after soaking. Takes a like time but it works.

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  • 3 months later...

So I have a good looking Millenium Custom, with a Ti 3 port comp on the front. I clean what I can get at, but am perplexed on how to get in the chambers and remove the build up.

I have been using HS6 which is noted to be a particularly dirty powder any way, I do not want to get in there with a dremel, as I am sure that would change the way it works and obviously over time that would be a dissaster.

Is there a solution you can emerse it in???

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Typically it's not the powder that gets deposited in your comp ........ it's the lead from the bullets that go through the comp. And hopefully you're NOT shooting bullets with an exposed lead base ... that only adds to the problem. Ideally you want to shoot a completely jacketed bullet or a hollow-point bullet to keep this to a minimum.

The only way I have had any luck cleaning out a comp is to use a Dental pick and do just that - just sit down and start picking away at it. Takes forever and doesn't get ALL of it but you'll get alot of it. Wont hurt the comp this way either.

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dental pick or a Dremel with a LONG extension and Ball end, if you are not really sure about your dremel skills (we need skills??)use those...by the way i also have owned and still own Millenium Custom guns and shoot HS6 on my 9mm major open

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Typically it's not the powder that gets deposited in your comp ........ it's the lead from the bullets that go through the comp. And hopefully you're NOT shooting bullets with an exposed lead base ... that only adds to the problem. Ideally you want to shoot a completely jacketed bullet or a hollow-point bullet to keep this to a minimum.

The only way I have had any luck cleaning out a comp is to use a Dental pick and do just that - just sit down and start picking away at it. Takes forever and doesn't get ALL of it but you'll get alot of it. Wont hurt the comp this way either.

Using completely jacketed bullets, Zero 125 Gr JHP's, I didn't think there were lead only bullets that could with stand these velocities??

So the old manual "pick at it" method is what most are doing?, I was told of a soaking solution that would lift most of it without harming anything, I was hoping someone on here might know a little more about that, seems emersing in a solution of sometype would do a better job than chipping away at it manually?

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I fired a few minor loads through one of LWD steel comps using Precision Bullets. Leaded up the comp pretty bad. I asked LWD about cleaning the comp and they suggested using an ultrasonic cleaner. I don't have one so have not been able to try it, but that is what they suggested and sounded pretty confident about it. I would be interested to know if that would work for sure. Anyone tried? It is hard to get those things clean and if an ultrasonic cleaner would work on that I imaging it would work on just about anything. If they weren't so expensive I would try one to see.

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Try Harborfreight.com for cheap ultrasonic cleaners.

This link is a little more direct .......

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/...c&Submit=Go

I have tried the little $39.00 model that they have. It was given to me and it is worthless. The model at the top of the list for $179.99 looks more like one of the cleaners sold by the high dollar companies though. I wonder if it works as well? I know you usually get what you pay for, but one thing I can't understand is why the name brand ultrasonic cleaners are so expensive to begin with. There just doesn't appear to be much to them. I know most of them are marketed to various medical professions which probably explains it, but still....

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