Lexor40cal

My club does wobble trap, is that what you call flurry?

TY.

So I'm transitioning into the shotgun sports, a little over USPSA, thinking of giving it a good break, figure out if I miss it too much or not. I have the USPSA Open Nationals planned, will run that and step away for a bit. I've picked up my O/U shotgun and played sporting clays a few times, shot an AWTF event down at the Meadows in Forsyth GA., shot a few informal Trap events and my first ATA event at my gun club (CGC) this past weekend. What else is there to shoot in the shogun world?

I'm sure all of those methods are good, but I wanted to let everyone know, that if you leave it and let it build up, now I'm talking years worth, of just wiping it with a cloth after/before every stage, it heavily builds up around the outer 1/4" of the window. It was that thick, that all of the other suggested ways of cleaning the window didn't work. That's why I took a sharp edge to it, I had nothing to loose. The point of the post is to let everyone know that the glass and coating is so hard, it is difficult to scratch it. Now, IDK if you took a pointed end and tried to scratch it, but using a blade as a scrapper, it didn't damage the glass or coating. BTW Kudos to C-more for making a tough product too!

Just a Stanley utility blade, scrapped at it, then cloth & Windex.,

So I have to share this with everyone here, as I had no idea this was possible. I have had a number of C-more sights mounded on open guns over the years, and even with a blast shield fitted to all of them the window aperture would eventually grow smaller in diameter from the continual pressure blasts of gasses from the popple holes and comp vents, even with wiping it after every stage with a lens cleaner. I've changed out complete sights as they really vignette down so there is 1/4" that is heavily smoked around the outside of the aperture. Well I recently decided I was going to try and remove the window from a serendipity that I am no longer using and try to order a new replacement window from the factory. Well there is a little plastic snap ring behind the window that comes out pretty easily, but the windows are bonded into the plastic housing (I'm not sure how the windows are secured in the aluminum housing), and after a call to C-more they told me they would not supply me with a replacement window, and to ship it in for them to do. Well I thought to myself, if I'm going to ship it in they are going to trash the window to remove it, so I might as well have a go at removing the discolored area myself, what can hurt if I scratch it. So I take a nice new Stanley box cutter blade and gently start scratching at the darkest areas, and to my astonishment, it didn't matter how hard I got on the glass, it didn't damage the window or the coating that is on the glass. I finished cleaning it with Windex and a good cloth, took care of a few little lines I missed, and it's as good as new. First photo serendipity after 2/3 attacks, second photo is a slide ride after first go around, just a few more lines to take care of. So don't shy away from it, have at it, it's difficult to damage the window or the coating. Hopefully this advise is helpful to someone and saves you some $$$, and allows you to see more clearly through your window...............

It is thought that the heavier the bullet, the less perceived recoil is created. Heavier bullet, less power required to drive it. Some prefer the bullet to be lighter and driven faster/snappier. I personally believe it's more up to the individual. 147Gr and the new 135Gr 9mm (.0356") bullets are very popular, especially for minor loads in Production division I personally use lighter bullets (124-125 Gr), as I can create more pressure to work a comp in my open gun. I use them in minor as well, because I prefer a snappy feel.

Wow, that's brutal. IDK where you live, but I'm in the ATL, and every one in the local area is super friendly, come to think of it the whole southeast is that way, actually I've shot all over the country and never experienced people being not easy to approach. I borrowed an open gun from a local shooter to figure out is if liked it or not. Come on NE. shooting community, someone help this guy out

That would make sense. Personally I use jacketed HP's, as running that as fast as I do plated or coated gets a little wobbly. But I like them for minor loads. I picked up a cert for Gallant bullets at the WSSC, ordered a couple of thousand to try out.

Also, be prepared for the pain up the back of your strong arm. It goes away after a while.

The 0.355" & 0.356" issue is all down to if a manufacturer whats to mess with both or standardize on one for both 9mm and .38 super/comp Zero used to make the two different diameters in all of their weight/shape offerings. Many years ago they did away with that and made only the one diameter for each, which many other manufacturers also now. It would be interesting to find out if the coated bullet manufacturers just double dip their products to gain the additional 0.001" Anyone here able to answer that?

To start I bought a used open gun, but made sure it was of good pedigree (Millennium Custom), and bought it from someone I knew and could trust that it wouldn't be a dog. Unfortunately a lot of people sell off open guns that aren't reliable, or they can't make them work for whatever reason, so they pass along the problem. Which is fine if you can figure out why it isn't reliable, but it had to have been built right in the first place. I did my research first to decide if I was going 38 super comp or 9mm major, that's the biggest decision in shooting open, and it really comes down to, do you want to pick up brass or not. Decided on 9mm Major, and bought the Millennium Custom from a reliable source. Shot it for two years, classified as A class in the first month I shot, then spent a year trying to figure out how to compete at A class. I shot that gun for close to 3 years, then had a new Akai spec built. Shot that for two years and had another Akai spec built. I sold the Millennium Custom open gun for what I paid for it 3 years later. So I agree with many others here, start off by finding yourself a used open gun, of the best pedigree you can afford.

Jakfrost, listen to the Master (Zack), he will not lead you astray...........

Greetings all, it's been a while since I was a regular contributor to this forum, I stepped away for a few years, as I got burnt out from it, but am now back, and will be contributing as and where I can. I've been in the shooting sports for a long time, and have put in my share of time as a RO and CRO, and then match director at local indoor USPSA match for 2 years, and then an outdoor monthly match (level I) at Cherokee Gun Club in Gainesville GA. for 8 years, ran Georgia state for 4 years consecutively (2011-2014), I was MD for Area 6 in 2016 and did a lot of the ground work for 2017. I am a master class open shooter (I only really shoot optics divisions now, as my eye's cant get on the front sight any more). Any how, I learnt a few tricks along the way, and like help new people out, LMK if I can assist you in any way Peter

So for all of those of you that like to get on here and flap your gums (oh, I would also like to point out that those of you that do that have never run a match before, but just saying), I thought I would let you know that I have spent all damn day, packing up and addressing and shipping out (via USPS) all of the trophies, certificates, checks and whatever else needed to go. I really am sorry that I didn't get right to it as soon as they showed up from Universal, but sometimes life gets in the way, like work, and a multitude of other stuff. Please give me a break. After this, I'm glad it's going else were, and people wonder why some MD's give this shit up 1