Comp Cleaning

[johnhurd]

Was putting some numbers on stuff the other day and the lites came on. One electric engraver, (4.99 at Harbor Freight) one new shaft ( 1\8 drill rod and E-clip and a nylon base) long enough to reach in the compensator one electrical outlet. Like a little jackhammer for your gun!!!!

Not even going to show you how much came out of my old pin gun

[roby]

nice...but all that built up crap is the only thing holding my comp together...lol

[TimWarner]

You're supposed to clean compensators?

But why?

I got a black one for a reason...

[Flatland Shooter]

I'm gonna show my age with this. I shoot major (9x21) using 147 gr lead bullets. I've found I can let it go a while and end up with a lead weight on the end of my gun instead of a highly efficient compensator. (Anyone remember the old pin guns from the early 80s?)

To clean my comp, I use a 50/50 mix of peroxide and vinegar. It will take the lead out of a barrel in a few minutes.

But don't leave it soak too long. I once accidently left a barrel and comp soak overnight. Next morning, not a speck of lead to be found. Unfortunately it also started eating away the steel in the comp at a corner where the hardchrome was thinning.

[Garrett]

How does having a tiny bit of lead in the comp effect it....why do you need to get it out...

Not to revive an old thread, but here is my recent experience:

I just shot a non-USPSA all steel match over the weekend. They have a local club rule that JHP is not to be used on steel, so it was FMJ only. The FMJs have an exposed lead base. I have shot several thousand rounds of Zero FMJ through this gun/comp, and there was quite a bit of buildup in the comp. I didnt' think much of it.

Recently, I have noticed that my dot would not stay zeroed. I had adjusted it just prior to the match. On the first stage I found that I was hitting way off to the right. It was suggested that my comp buildup was affecting my POI.

I removed the comp and re-sighted the gun. I shot the remainder of the match without it and did very well. I was not able to overcome my abysmal time from the first stage, though. I couldn't believe how far off the bullets were hitting because of the excessive buildup.

I just spent two hours with a dremel cleaning the comp. The condition of the comp is now something to add to my list of things to check before a big match.

My IPSC open gun has only had JHPs fired through it. I have never cleaned the comp, and it has no buildup.

[RH45]

Even with Zero JHPs, which has no exposed lead, I had a buildup around my crown, but, it was not lead, it was carbon which affected my groups the same way.

[Alan550]

I recently got this suggestion from a friend who swears it works, so here goes. He ordered some Break Free and got Break Free Carbon Cutter for blackpowder rifles by mistake. He tried it out on the comp and it worked like a charm! Brownells carries it, so I'm gonna give it a try. I shoot JHPs so leading isn't the problem, just carbon buildup. I'll post if it works as advertised.

Alan~^~

[PistolPete]

I've been trying to clean the comp out on my Brazos gun but I just can't seem to get it all out. I've been using brake cleaner and spraying it in which seems to work pretty decent. I then use gun cleaning patches and try getting my fingers into the grooves. Needless to say I can't get it all out. I've heard you can use some sort of Dremel bit a ball attachment or something but I'm not sure what this is. Anyone have any links of what this might be or any tips to making this easier?

thanks,

Pete

ps. please don't flame as I'm new to this open game.

[shred]

The Dremel ball has the capability to remove metal, so it's kind of a last resort.

At the SC, the SLIP 2000 folks were showing some new "carbon cutter" stuff that they said would loosen all kinds of carbon, from revolver cylinders to comp deposits. From the people that tried it I heard good reports.

[George]

If you aren't shooting lead base bullets (most fmj's) and letting the lead deposits build up, the comp doesn't need the chambers to be really clean to the metal. It will work just fine with a layer of soot and carbon baked onto it ;-)

[Azone41]

If you shoot hollow points you don't get the lead build up in the comp.

[rishii]

like the others have said, shoot JHP and most of the problem goes away.

but for your current problem, I got a couple of steel and brass scrapers that I use to get out the hard stuff.

[Flatland Shooter]

Does Dremel, or any of their competitors, make a 1/8" or so ball shaped cutter for soft metals only? That might be good to remove the lead and minimal damage to the comp.

Edited with new information added:

May have an answer to my own question. Here is a ball cutter for plastic, woood, non-ferous metal, etc.

May be worth a try..

http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/dremel-hss-round

Edited August 22, 2006 by Flatland Shooter

[mcoliver]

Cost considerations limit us to shooting teflon-coated heads back here. The lead build-up in the comp can get pretty ugly if left alone. We're using carter's comp spray with some degree of success but we still need to scrape off some build up with a jeweler's screw driver.

What we found out is that we need to spray the comp when it's still hot. Soak with Carter's for a few minutes then scrape away.

HTH.

Edited August 22, 2006 by mcoliver

[Azone41]

I once used a small propane torch (Walmart) to heat the comp and then blew out the lead with my air hose. Not recommended unless you are VERY carful where the molten lead goes.

[pmd]

Pete,

This past week I heard mention that a mix (not sure of %) of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide works.

Maybe someone who's used this mixture can shed light on if it works or not.

I was told that this mixture should not be left on too long.

Paul

[Trenavd]

If you go to www.kgcoatings.com they sell some great cleaning products, KG1 is a carbon solvent and it works great. The carbon under the scope mount wipes right off with a little on a rag, the same results anywhere there is carbon build up like the barrel around the chamber. To clean my comps I put some in a small bottle just slightly larger than the comp, fill it with KG1 and turn the barrel upsidedown with the comp in the solvent, after about 10 min or so the carbon is almost all gone what is left wipes right out. By clean I mean you can see the hard chrome inside the comp again. Put the cap on the bottle and it will last through many many comp cleanings. Then I spray it out with KG3 which is much better than brake cleaner or gun scrub, does not stink and easy on the hands. I know this sounds like a commercial but this stuff really works great, while you are at it try KG2 bore solvent you will never go back to Butches.

Edited August 22, 2006 by Trenavd

[Flatland Shooter]

This past week I heard mention that a mix (not sure of %) of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide works.

Maybe someone who's used this mixture can shed light on if it works or not.

I was told that this mixture should not be left on too long.

The mixture I use is 50% peroxide and 50% white vinegar. It will disolve the lead in your barrel and compensator. And yes, if left on too long will cause damage.

I made a small container out of PVC pipe with a cap on one end. I'd drop the barrel/comp assembly into the mixture and leave it in for 10 minutes, then rinse with hot water. As long as I didn't let the lead build up in the comp, a little scraping with a flat point brass rod knocked out any chunks left. The lead floats to the top of the mixture and is probably pretty toxic. Be careful how you dispose it.

About 10 years ago I put the barrel and comp into the mixture to soak. A few minutes later I got an emergency phone call and hit the highway. Long story short, three or four days later I returned to discover the stainless steel barrel untouched, but anywhere the hard chrome was thin or chipped on the steel compensator, the underlying metal was badly pitted. All the lead was gone, but at a high price.

I've never tried this on blued guns or bare steel, but would be very cautious.

Moral of the story, I still use the 50/50 mix but I am very careful to not allow my gun parts to soak for more than a few minutes. I may have a little lead in my current comp, but I also have an entire comp.

Now I need to go lay down. After all these years thinking about this still upsets me. I gotta get a life.

FS

[OpnBlstr]

At the SC, the SLIP 2000 folks were showing some new "carbon cutter" stuff that they said would loosen all kinds of carbon, from revolver cylinders to comp deposits. From the people that tried it I heard good reports.

I've been using the Slip2000 Carbon Cutter (the green stuff you have to shake up) for about a year now. It does work very well on comps to get the carbon out. Also works well on AR parts.

I have no reservations using it on my Trubor barrel but the first time I used it on my other pistol with Loctite the comp started screwing off the next day while shooting. I just dunk the comp end of the barrel in the jar for 15-20 minutes and brush away the gunk. It leaves bare metal easily on my guns but I run Vihta and JHPs too. So far no damage to the hard chrome.

[shred]

Does Dremel, or any of their competitors, make a 1/8" or so ball shaped cutter for soft metals only? That might be good to remove the lead and minimal damage to the comp.

Edited with new information added:

May have an answer to my own question. Here is a ball cutter for plastic, woood, non-ferous metal, etc.

May be worth a try..

http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/dremel-hss-round

Hmm.. HSS will remove metal. Dremel advertises them for soft materials, but they work on harder ones too. Cover the muzzle with a feeler gauge for insurance.

[Jack Suber]

Where do you find the Slip2000 Carbon Cutter? My son just got into open and I guess this is something we need to think about. He is shooting MG 124 CMJs with 7625, but the gun already had some build up when we bought it. Thanks.

At the SC, the SLIP 2000 folks were showing some new "carbon cutter" stuff that they said would loosen all kinds of carbon, from revolver cylinders to comp deposits. From the people that tried it I heard good reports.

I've been using the Slip2000 Carbon Cutter (the green stuff you have to shake up) for about a year now. It does work very well on comps to get the carbon out. Also works well on AR parts.

I have no reservations using it on my Trubor barrel but the first time I used it on my other pistol with Loctite the comp started screwing off the next day while shooting. I just dunk the comp end of the barrel in the jar for 15-20 minutes and brush away the gunk. It leaves bare metal easily on my guns but I run Vihta and JHPs too. So far no damage to the hard chrome.

[OpnBlstr]

Where do you find the Slip2000 Carbon Cutter? My son just got into open and I guess this is something we need to think about. He is shooting MG 124 CMJs with 7625, but the gun already had some build up when we bought it. Thanks.

www.slip2000.com

They have online ordering. I noticed when I went there they've changed the name of the product from Carbon Cutter to Carbon Killer and no longer package it in glass (smart!!). Same stuff though and it DOES work like the pictures suggest.

Your load should burn pretty clean. That's exactly what I used to shoot.

The Dremel wire brush that looks like a cylinder - not the disc - works great for cleaning comps without gouging the steel. The smoother you keep the inside of the comp the easier it is to clean since there aren't any crevasses for the crud to grab hold. My first chamber barely gets dirty even at the 1000 round mark - still mostly hard chrome visible.

[rwmagnus]

I started using slip2000 at the is years IRC for my revolvers. It's very good. All metal cleaned with it needs to be lubercated and be very careful if using it on blued metal. Still works but I wouldn't soak it for more than 8-10 minutes. My results didn't have lead floating to the top but it did significantly soften it so that a toothbrush and plastic pick tool was all that was needed

Shoot JHPs thru compensated guns it's a lot easier to clean up afterwards.

[joecichlid]

Flatland Shooter, yes the 50/50 mix will work on blued parts but it will remove the bluing in as little as 10 minutes. Any longer than that and you risk major damage. I would soak it a few minutes then rinse it off with water and if needed soak again for a few more minutes but just be very careful.

Trenavd, I swear by KG products and have for years. That stuff works wonders on my guns and the KG 12 is AMAZING on removing copper fouling. E Arther Brown did some testing with it and most copper solvents would remove half to a grain or so of copper from a solid copper bullet but KG 12 removed almost 10 grains from the the same kind of bullets out of the same batch. They have a ton of products for just about anything you could think of and I would recommend them to anyone.

Joe W.

[Chris Keen]

To clean my comp, I use a 50/50 mix of peroxide and vinegar. It will take the lead out of a barrel in a few minutes.

Can anyone out there confirm this ???

I'm getting ready to send my blaster off to Tripp for hard-chrome.

PS I have more dirt / carbon than I do lead. Just want to clean it up a little 1st.