Comp Cleaning

[Rush]

as a follow up, is hoppes no. 9 safe to use on titanium comps? also,

will hoppes damage the barrel if left to sit in it? the muzzle of the barrel has some lead build up as well...

Regards,

[eric nielsen]

I used different solvents & always went back to 2 tools - a small-blade screwdriver [not a jewelers] and a 1/8" round drift punch.

No solvents at all for me. Just dig. Makes less mess.

For prevention, several of us tried Carter's and found that just any old oil works better. A coat of oil in the ports & baffles, then tap out the excess on a paper towel & wipe off the outside. Repeat before each shooting & esp. right after cleaning.

PS - JHP bullets do shoot cleaner & are much better for your blood-lead-count.

[Mad Scientist]

dont know if this has any bering on this subject, But I use very slow powders and have almost no leading. I have several thousands of rounds thru several guns that have no dicernable build up. One gun with a steel comp and one with a Tytanium comp.I think it has to do with the slight glow in the comp.The lead is vaperized when firing. use zero JHP only.

On the other hand I have a steel gun that shoots white boxFMJ and the lead is terable. quick powder lead base.

I use a sharpened screw driver to dig out the comp on the steel gun.

Johnie

[warpspeed]

I've seen similar results to Mad Scientist. My steel load is a 115 MG jhp with a very fast powder. Lots of build up.

My Open load is the same 115 MG jhp or 125 Zero JHP with VV N350 - no build up.

[syme71]

This thread merged with the one above.

Anyone have any special tricks to keeping their comps clean? I just got a used open gun and did a basic strip and clean. I dreading having to clean the comp after every session.

Saw that there is a product called Carters Comp Spray. Anyone have luck with this product?

Edited February 27, 2005 by Flexmoney

[Sixgun]

Carters will help somewhat. Start with a clean comp and spray the Carters on. The biggest thing you can do to keep the comp clean is to not shoot lead. Use plated or jacketed exclusively. I run 5 to 10 thousand rounds through my open gun, before I even think about cleaning the comp. I use jacketed bullets only. The only thing in the bottom of the comp is baked on powder fouling. A little Kroil, let it sit overnight and it comes off fairly easily. It's really not that bad to clean the comp. A brass welding rod also helps to knock chunks of fouling out of the chambers without damaging the finish on the comp or scratching the bottom of the chambers.

Ray

[XRe]

Note that it's not typically enough to just shoot jacketed - ideally, you'd shoot a JHP, or a fully encapsulated bullet, like a CMJ/TMJ type of design. The exposed lead base of an FMJ bullet will slightly melt, and leave a deposit in your comp over time, which can eventually build up to the point where it's interfering w/ the bullet flight path....

As Sixgun suggests, brass rod can be used to knock that lead out, too - you can file/grind a chisel point on it, and tap away w/ a light hammer.

Best to avoid the problem entirely, if you can, though... Proper bullet designs don't seem to really be any more expensive than an FMJ, so...

[BerettaRacer]

A small burring tool bit in a dremel chews up hard deposits in the corners pretty good.

[Flexmoney]

syme71,

I merged your thread in with a similar thread that was on the forum.

[Tom Balko]

Not sure how it would work on lead deposits as I shoot jacketed ammo only in my open blaster, but for carbon fouling I recently tried "Blue Wonder" gun cleaner.

http://www.bluewonder.us/

I think I first heard of it from the unofficial ipsc list, and later found it in a sporting goods store. It worked extremely well on the carbon deposits that are left after shooting a large volume of jacketed ammo. It significantly reduced the ammount of scraping required, which has got to be a good thing,,, for me and the gun! All applicable disclaimers apply!

[skeeter]

hmmm... clean guns and parts! i need to do that.

[Flexmoney]

hmmm... clean guns and parts! i need to do that.

Feel free to stop over.

[fastshuter]

I have used a mixture of hdydrgen proxid and white vinager 50 50 mix.

This will remove lead deposits from everything ie: scope lens, barrel mounts.

!!!CAUTION !!! THIS CAN DO DAMAGE TO SOME TYPE OF FINISHING!!

My comp and barrel are stainless and fit in a Zip lock baggie. let it soak for a few minnits depending on how dirty it is. Works great

Should I take the gun apart and just soak the comp end of the barrel in the 50/50 solution?

[Flyin40]

Anyone use the comp cleaning tool from Brownells?? Whats it made out of. Was wondering if it scratches the gun on the inside of the comp.

Flyin40

[fastshuter]

I bought a comp cleaner tool from Arrendondo. Hard work, took me an hour and a half to remove the crud out of the comp on my STI Competitor. I bought the gun used and fired about 3k rounds(mg 115 cmj) through it before I cleaned it. The previous owner had loaned it out to a guy that shoots lead. I scratched the inside of the comp a bit. I didn't know how deep the comp chambers were but as I got to what I thought was close to steel I took it easy on the scraping. It shoots better now as my groups have tightened up and what does it matter if the inside of the comp is scratched a bit?

[tightloop]

How does having a tiny bit of lead in the comp effect it....why do you need to get it out...

[fastshuter]

My comp was so full of whatever the bullet exiting was making a track through the buildup so there was more than just a little bit jammed in there. I'm shooting cmj bullets exclusively so will see how many rounds it takes to plug it up again. If the gun comes with the comp clean I imagine the space inside the comp must have to be fairly clean for it to work properly. I'm no expert, maybe someone on this forum can explain it.

[ctgun]

I am just starting to run an open gun this year so I am not sure if this will work on a comp or not but to take off the carbon fouling on my other guns I have used "Simple Green" and a tooth brush and it cleans great though I have never used it on a gun that is blued.

[jros3e]

Please let me know how can i clean my comp so it can be clean perfect.

Thanks.

[.40AET]

Link to Comp Cleaning

[jros3e]

Thanks .40AET.

[BEDELLCUSTOM]

if you're using bullets with an exposed lead base, you might want to change to a fully encapsulated bullet or a hollow point(hollow points do not have an exposed lead base). exposed lead on the bullet base will cause the comp to foul excessively due to some of the lead being burned of the base and ending up in the comp. i don't know if this has anything to do with your comp fouling but it's something to look at.

[shred]

Sekret business plan #37-

Step 1- Fit up CNC micro-mill with dimensions of popular comp chambers

Step 3- Profit!

No, wait, step 2 involves driving around the country in custom van solving mysteries, er, setting up at major matches to mill the built-up crap out of comps for a small fee.

"Clean your comp for a fiver, guv'nor?"

[jros3e]

if you're using bullets with an exposed lead base, you might want to change to a fully encapsulated bullet or a hollow point(hollow points do not have an exposed lead base). exposed lead on the bullet base will cause the comp to foul excessively due to some of the lead being burned of the base and ending up in the comp. i don't know if this has anything to do with your comp fouling but it's something to look at.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Dear Dan i cann't use any bullet that i want because

here in Greece we can't reload wet

So i shoot only factory ammo...

I think that your 9mm shorty open guns can shoot and

factory minor loads...

[BEDELLCUSTOM]

if you aren't sure if the factory bullet is encapsulated, just pull one round apart and check of as i said most all the HP ammo i've ever seen has no exposed lead base. i was test firing a new gun today and tried some factory winchester 9mm nato 124gr fmj and it ran the gun fine. i also tried some factory remington umc 115gr fmj and it also ran but was just barely stroking the slide enough to eject the cases.