M1A4ME

Like the man said. It helps some and makes no difference in others. If your gun shoots good groups then it's good to go. If your gun doesn't shoot good groups and you KNOW it's the gun and not you, then try it to see. I've got a couple/three CZ's with no need of the bushing and it's helped the two I have installed them in.

Remember neck tension? Holds the bullet in place? If you don't have enough neck tension the bullet can be shoved deeper into the case - raising chamber pressures. I would not shoot that. When it feeds from the magazine to the chamber it'll take a smack on the nose of the bullet and there's no way to tell how deeply into the case it'll move back. As to dropping it in the chamber (if it even will, due to the cracked brass sticking up) is your pistol "okay" with jamming the extractor claw into/over the case rim? That normally doesn't happen. The extractor claw slips over the rim as the cartridge moves upwards from the magazine to the chamber.

I could be wrong....but aren't .223 carbine and 9MM buffers different lengths? I'm running a .223 carbine H2 buffer in one of my 9MM ARs and I had to add spacers at the back of the buffer tube (why is this thing adding a link to my text????) to adjust the bolt travel vs. bolt stop to keep from eventually breaking the bolt stop. If you put a true 9MM buffer in the .223 carbine buffer tube will the bolt go back far enough to lock back when the magazine goes empty?

Disassemble the magazine. Remove the slide from the frame of the pistol. Insert the magazine shell and look to see if the slide release goes completely into the shell or if it's hanging up part of the way in. My cousin had a double stack 1911 that was doing this with a couple of magazines. We had to slightly open up the mag. catch hole/slot on the top to allow the mag. catch to fully engage into the magazine shell. If that's the problem it won't take much metal removal to make a difference. Then again, with no rounds in it and no slide on it, you won't get any resistance to fully inserting the mag. shell either, so it might go completely into place. Good luck with it.

Unless you get lucky, I wouldn't recommend a .22 conversion kit for an Appleseed. By lucky, I mean a combination of reliability and accuracy. I have a Ceiner kit that works very well in one of my carbines. It is the only one I'd trust (that kit is reliable in other AR15's but the other AR15 aren't as accurate with .22 ammo at that particular carbine.) While it's true a Remington or Ruger .22 won't be identical to your AR15, you can still learn fundamentals with them. And they need to be reliable/accurate as well. The minimum standard for shooting good scores at an Appleseed is being able to put your bullets into a 1" circle. Yes, you can learn/improve/have fun at an Appleseed, but the rifleman's badge isn't easy to get. I've read some people go to two or even three appleseeds before they finally shoot well enough to get that badge. Then, some people shoot well enough n their very first one. Why do you use match bullets for plinking? At 25 yds. the Hornady 55 grain FMJBT bullets will shoot plenty good enough to work at an appleseed - or just for fun at the range. Forgot, the question about how many rounds are fired at an appleseed? Could be 400 to 600 rounds or more. Lots of shooting, lots of repetitions of the exercises/stages. Standing, sitting/kneeling and prone sling supported firing positions.

You can buy/build a .22 rim fire trainer to substitute for the center fire rifles. I bought a used 10/22 and set it up to mimic my M1A/M1 Garand. Some people buy the .22 rim fire versions of AR15's. Some people buy the Marling and Remington semi auto .22's (don't know about now, but 20 years ago people were really liking the Marlins while others were having a lot of malfunction issues with the Remingtons). While most of the training/shooting is at 25 meters, the fundamentals are still fundamentals.

I have two DI (Dual Illuminated - fiber optic for use where there is enough light, tritium for use when the FO won't collect enough light) RMR on CZ pistols. One is green and one amber. These are just my experiences: Green, works fine in daylight hours as long as I'm in a place where the light is equal to or greater than where the target is located. Nice green dot, easy to see. But, if I'm in a low light area - like in the house or under the firing line overhead cover at a range - the green dot is just about impossible for me to see on the target. First time this situation occurred I thought my new RMR "was broke already." Amber, is so bright when I'm in a well lighted area you just can't miss it (you almost wish you could turn a knob and dim it down a little - I've read some people put a little tape over the FO window to partially block the amount of light it can pick up). In the conditions where I can't see the green dot (me in low light, target in brighter light) I can still see the amber dot just fine. The amber dot RMR is on my EDC P07. The green dot RMR is on my range gun P09 which doubles as a bedroom gun. Some people report the opposite of what I experience. The say they can see the green dot better than the amber dot. Before you buy, check them out at the store if they'll let you. Oh, I've also read the green dot has almost twice the tritium life of the amber dots. No idea why.

Find, sign up for and attend an Appleseed event. Fundamentals of rifle marksmanship. It's not easy, even though most of them are 25 meter events. Between the size of the targets, the position changes, the magazines changes and the number of targets per stage it is a challenge for most shooters. I've seen guys that regularly compete in CMP/NRA rifle competitions go to an Appleseed and then tell me they learned things (or in some cases, relearned things) that helped them improve their rifle shooting. If you can do it (shoot a rifleman score) at 25 meters you can do it at longer ranges - the difference is in compensating for wind and bullet trajectory, but if you don't have the fundamentals understood and in use prior to that you won't get the trajectory and wind compensation down either. Appleseed will put you on the road (some people attend two or three to finally get that Rifleman's badge) to learning all kinds of important things like how to set up and use a sling to build a good sling supported firing position. How to move your body to adjust for differences in target distance and in target lateral spacing across your firing lane. How to get NPOA and why it's important and improves your rifle shooting. I'm not in the RWVA anymore. I was in instructor 10 years ago, or so and left due to the internal politics (damn shame as a group grows in size more and more politicians end up vying for power within it, but that's human nature, just as it's human nature not to stop that BS early and kick the politicians out). But the idea is still a very good one. The training is good (as with anything, some instructors are better than others. Good training. Good fun. Good benefits from the training. Good luck. For what it's worth, I went to one Appleseed. Didn't get to where I wanted to be. Signed up for an RBC (Rifleman's Boot Camp - week long training event that was set up to train instructors, but used to be anyone could attend even if you didn't want to be an instructor, no idea how that goes today) and attended the second one held (Feb. of 2006, I think). A couple months later I signed up for and attended the CMP Garand Master Instructor class at Camp Perry, OH. All I'll say about that one is the best part of the trip was the two H&R M1 Garand barreled receivers and the really big case of HXP surplus I bought and brought home with me. Those classes spend a large amount of time touting the benefits of belonging to the CMP instead of spending it on training people to be good instructors.

.223 1. You shoot it more 2. You have more rifles to shoot it 3. brass is cheaper if you buy brass 4. bullets are cheaper 5. a pound of powder is a pound of powder but the .223 used just about half what a .308 uses so you get almost twice as many .223 rounds out of a pound of powder as you do .308 rounds Lots of good powders for each. I can personally recommend two ball powders that meter (out of a good powder measure) very consistently and provide accurate ammo. BLC2 and H335. You haven't been trimming 9MM cases, but at some point you will need to trim .223 brass, so be ready for that. You won' need to do it every time you resize it, but, based on case length increasing every time you resize it at some point you'll need to trim. No need to crimp .223 brass like you do 9MM brass. I've never crimped reloads for my semi auto rifles, not in 40 plus years of reloading/shooting my own reloads. Some people do crimp though, I just can't see a good reason for it. If you decide to crimp then you have to insure all your brass is the same length so you may find yourself trimming more often to insure the amount of crimp on each round is the same. You'll need that little tool for cleaning up the case mouth on the rifle brass (inside and outside - called a chamfering/deburring tool) so the base of the bullet doesn't get damaged when you insert/seat it into the case mouth/neck. Have fun, be safe.

Sorry, I didn't think we were arguing. I thought you were saying the dot didn't have to be centered and I was agreeing and relating my experiences. Have a good one.

I've done that. Just to prove it to myself. 1st round with the dot on the target but with the dot at the left side of the lens. 2nd round with the dot on the target but with the dot at the top of the lens. 3rd round with the dot on the target but with the dot at the right side of the lens. 4th round with the dot on the target but with the dot at the bottom of the lens. 5th round with the dot on the target but with the dot in the center of the lens. Convinced myself that I didn't need to "work" the dot into the center of the lens to put the bullet where it needs to go. If the dot is where I want it all I need to do is squeeze the trigger enough to make the pistol fire. Both mine are DI RMRs so I don't have battery/switch/electrical issues. Some day they'll need new tritium for low/no light use but the FO should work forever for daylight use. I have a couple DP Pros and have no complaints about them. Batteries lasted just over a year on one and just under a year on the other one (this one sees extremes in temperature compared to the one on the CZ75 Compact of my wife's, hers is kept in the bedroom where she can get to it if she needs to.) But I don't notice the "window" size on the DP Pros either.

I don't compete - but really, who looks at the window? I thought the idea was to look at the target and when you have the dot on the target (where you want it) you squeeze the trigger. You look at the target - the dot is there. Honestly, I don't even notice the color issues many people complain about with RMRs. It's the target and the dot. Not the frame, not the color of the area around the dot/target. The target and the dot. But that's just me.

I've never used Varget in .223. I use IMR4198, BLC2 and H335. Near max loads with IMR4198 and BLC2. I charge 50 cases with powder, angle the loading block towards me and use a bright flashlight to check for powder and do a side by side powder level comparison. If I see any that look odd (high/low) I weigh the charge on the scale. I sometimes notice (or think I do) a slight variation in powder level and pick out 10 from every 50 to check on the scale. But I've not paid attention to the case head stamps. to see if there's a trend to those that look "high" to me. Honestly, with H335 I've never found one off target and with BLC2 10% of the ones I check might be off by 0.1 grains. They looked high/low to me (some of them), but I just didn't check the head stamps. I remember weighing a variety of .223 cases a few years back when I started shooting AR15's and loading for them, but there wasn't enough difference to worry about in the weight differences between resized, trimmed cases. Again, I can't say what the headstamps were, at that time, it was over 10 years ago. In the future, when I'm loading the plinking ammo with mixed brass, I'll pay more attention to case weight when I see one that appears to have more powder than the next one - especially when the charge weights are on target.

Most people will say a reduced power hammer spring really doesn't reduce SA trigger pull. I've actually read (can't confirm it in my own experience) going lighter on the hammer spring can make the SA trigger feel worse (not as crisp). The CGW race hammer and adjustable sear really help improve how crisp the trigger pull/feel is. The adjustable sear speeds up the transition of parts because you won't have to work on the original safety shaft/cam that blocks sear movement when in the SAFE position. Any change in the hammer/sear engagement usually results in the need to work on that cam on the safety shaft. After doing one the cheap way (stoning the safety cam little by little till it was perfect - but it took over twenty remove, stone, install, test, and then repeat cycles to get it just right) I did the next two with the CGW adjustable sear. Man people who go with a much lower powered hammer spring also install the CGW extended firing pin, reduced firing pin return spring and firing pin retaining pin in their slide, too. As well as a reduced power firing pin block spring - if you leave the firing pin block installed. I did on my compact conversion. I thought I might want to carry it some day and wanted to leave that extra safety installed/working.

Don't know if you can change out parts, or not. The only CZ74 SA I've dealt with now has a CGW race hammer, adjustable sear, a straight trigger from CZ USA and some polishing of internals. It's right at 2 lbs. now and much crisper than out of the box. My youngest son won't hardly shoot any other pistols now. His excuse? Well dad, I just like shooting small groups. I've not bought one of my own but I converted one of my compacts to SAO with the same parts. Very nice.

Built two so far. H2 buffer in one (because it was in the parts drawer) and a standard carbine buffer in the other one. Both have carbine springs. No issues with either, so far.

I broke a decapping pin like that 3 or 4 years ago. Weird stuff happens. I had a 9MM case in a .40 case one time. First thing I though was a "berdan" primed .40 S&W case. Mangled up both of them at the top.

I've had one for awhile. I just dry fire, SAO, with the P07 or CZ P01. Record the results in a spread sheet and at some point I'll play with the numbers and see it it's helping me get better.

Have you seen this, from CZ Custom? Put it in full screen to shrink it down so you can see everything and make it "cleaner."

Don't shoot competition, just EDC CZ's. I bought a P07 DUTY in .40 S&W for a project. Took it to the range and shot it. No way I'm messing up anything that shoots groups like that. Only mods to it are the optic cut for the DI RMR, the cut and installation in the slide for the BUIS and the taller front sight by Primary Machine, as well as replacing the factory trigger return spring and the firing pin block spring with the reduced power versions from CGW and a grip wrap/tape to keep it from moving around on those days when I sweat so bad it gets slick/slimy. I carry that pistol (12 round magazine in it and an extended P09 magazine for back up) anytime I get in the car/truck to go somewhere (shopping/eating/visiting relatives.) I bought an old Pre B CZ85 for a knock around gun and it was a bit long/big for IWB carry during the summer months (no issues with the outside the waist band/winter time carry). Ended up having to do more work to make it right than I expected and ended up with a really nice pistol. Loved those CZ85 controls. Got the urge to convert a CZ75 Compact to CZ85 controls so I bought one, bought the parts and did the measuring/figuring/drilling/fitting and now I carry a CZ85 Compact/clone for everyday around the house/garage/property. I've bought more CZ's since those but none of them fit the bill for EDC like those two. Recently I bought a P01 Omega and it's about to try and bump the CZ85 Compact/clone as my knock around pistol. My best (most accurate) range gun is the P09 9MM. It even beats out the Tactical Sport .40 for small groups. The only centerfire handgun I have that keeps up with the P09 9MM is my old S&W 586 with the 6" barrel.

I've got a couple 9MM AR's. Both mine run standard triggers from AR15 lower parts kits. No issues. And, from what I've seen, a blowback 9MM is now the dirtiest operating gun I own. They have displaced .22 rimfires for creating a blackish/gray coating of burnt powder residue even on the outside of the upper and lower receivers in the area of the ejection port and mag well, let alone what ends up on the bolt/bolt face, chamber. Dirtier than a DI .223, at least my two are.

My P09 really "likes" the cheap Federal 115 grain FMJ ammo I get from Walmart for about $18 per 100 rounds. Seven shot, seven yards, rested while sighting in the (then) new RMR. The group in the lower right corner was aimed at the target company logo. The group high/left of the target was the previous 3 shots before another sight adjustment.

Looks good. Several people have the earlier gun (steel P01 looking frame but stamped CZ75 Compact) and they say it has become their favorite pistol to shoot. Accurate, steel frame muzzles the recoil some.

Got my first 1911 in 1978. Never greased it. Oil only. Have several other brands of semi auto pistols, same thing, oil only. No issues. The old GI 1911 manuals specified dropping the slide on an empty chamber as one of the function checks after you cleaned/lubed/reassembled the pistol. In the really old GI manuals they specify whale oil as the lubricant for the 1911. Not sure how whale oil stacks up to 3n1 oil or Mobil 1.

This is one of the P01 looking pistols with the CZ75 Compact slide stamp. With some modifications. The upswept beavertail is easier to see in this picture (frame comes this way, just not as easy to see in the picture of the stock pistol). Mods are the CGW race hammer/adjustable sear, the safeties like those used in some of the full sized pistols, and the CZ straight SA trigger. It didn't need a CGW barrel bushing. Shoots good groups with the stock bushing/barrel. There's a thread (or three) on the CZ Forum about what parts to use (not mine, I used it as a guide for buying parts for this one though.)