M1A4ME

Same here. Go easy. They push right out. Might want to wear safety glasses, just to be as safe as possible.

Some type of light grease? The solution for heavy rains affecting the M1 Garand was to move from oil lube to grease lube, during WW2 (or so the books say). I'm not a fan of grease, but some people use it.

I hear about bad ones but I haven't seen one yet. Your story sounds like a buddy I had at home many years ago. He wasn't happy with his groups from his 742 (also a 30.06). He wanted to trade it off. I asked him, "Have you ever missed a deer with that rifle?" His reply was "No." I asked, "Have you ever had to shoot one twice?" Again, he replied, "No." It didn't make any sense, but he wanted smaller groups. Hope you have the opportunity to put many more venison steaks in the freezer.

No lead in the barrel from the exposed lead tips on hunting rounds. The tips don't touch the lands in the barrel, only the jacket contacts the lands to spin the bullet. I gave my father-in-laws 742 (also in 30.06) to one of his grandsons (my nephew) last year. That old rifle killed a lot of bucks back in the 70's. Remington 180 grain coreloks is what he used. Run a brush with some powder solvent down the barrel, scrub it a few passes, then dry patches till it's clean. Clean is a relative term. I think I gave up patching till the patch was clean many years ago. Clean the chamber the same way. Use a brush (like a tooth brush) to clean the bolt face. Lubricate the trigger housing parts and bolt with a light oil like 3n1 oil or Mobil 1. Wipe the outside down with an oily rage (metal surfaces) to keep it from rusting and then make sure it's sighted in. I think we've got at least three 742's in the family. All 30.06's. Two standard barrels and one carbine (that's a funny looking thing with the shorter barrel.) Good luck.

Whenever the weatherman/woman says to expect some colder than normal temperatures overnight my wife always tells me I need to set the thermostat on the heat pump at a higher temperature to make up for the colder temperatures outside. After 40 years of marriage I've given up trying to explain why that isn't necessary.

Yup, no matter what people think, they are not all the same. Not all the guns, not all the pins. If I only had one and it was tight, I'd probably think all of them were. All of mine are loose/easy to push in/out. Sometimes they fall out while I'm flipping the frame over to install the bottom pin (have to keep an eye on it). Have a good one.

That upper pin never needs to be hit with anything. You can push it in with your finger tip when it's all lined up properly. Even the lower pin will push in, if you've got the cup lined up properly. Don't know why anyone would feel the need to grind/file on the cup in that location

Well, that means if I ever have to use them, the two new trigger bar lifting springs I bought from CZ USA will have to be tweaked as both arms of the springs on them were level. Something to remember, I guess.

I bought a brand new CZ 75 Compact (the so called SP01 Compact) a few months back. When I decided to make it SAO I found two issues mentioned above 1. The screw that holds the trigger bar spring and magazine release button spring was loose. Not just loose, but I turned it down a couple turns to get it tight/snug. Also means it wasn't staked in place. 2. The trigger bar lifting spring wasn't uniform in it's arm height. One side was higher than the other and one spring arm kept coming off the bottom of the trigger bar and riding between it and the frame. It may be new, but take a look at everything.

Some people cut that hook off the bottom. Some people replace it with a straight version/piece.

When I bought mine the claim was the springs would last 3 times, or more, longer than the standard coil springs. I'll never know as my 1911s are basically "retired" in favor of my CZ's.

I bought one (actually two, one for me, one for my youngest son) awhile back. It won't tell you if the sights are properly aligned with the target - only tells you if you move the gun at trigger pull due to trigger finger technique or changing finger/grip pressure on the frame at time of trigger pull. Flinching, jerking, pulling/pushing, etc. all show up. It will, sometimes, record a thumb cocking movement as a trigger pull when dry firing (which will really screw up a nice average for a five shot group if you don't realize you pulled the trigger 5 times and it shows 6 times. You can delete the wrong recording if you catch it in time. I actually started a spread sheet on my laptop to see if there are changes long term from using it. I have not, yet, used it for live fire. Dry fire only.

I bought one of these awhile back. https://mantisx.com/ Attaches to your light/laser rail. Can be used in dry fire or live fire. Monitors/charts movements of the pistol as you use the trigger to release the hammer/striker to fire the gun. Movement just before hammer/striker release and just after. You can use your phone (android or I phone to communicate with it and reset it for the next string, etc. It doesn't tell you if you kept the front/rear sight/target properly aligned. It just tells you if you're letting your trigger finger and grip ruin you potential scores.

I tried to delete my PB account and the "buttons" wouldn't work. I deleted my photos and walked away. They keep sending me e-mails every couple of weeks telling me I have to pay the fee to share my photos. I was sending back a reply to delete my account but they won't do it. I'll never got back to PB even if they sent out e-mails tomorrow saying it was a big mistake and I can have everything the way it used to be. Site functionality was going south anyway at PB. Sometimes I'd check it two or three times before I could upload photos or copy photos to a forum. It was locking up or just not working to edit photos.

The first three that popped into my head are all Gregory Peck movies. While Captain Horatio Hornblower, RN and Big Country are great movies, I will always feel Twelve O'clock High is better. Several times a year, on a dark windy rainy day I'll grab it out of the cabinet and stick it in the DVD player and get drawn into the past one more time.

My dad shot slugs through his 30" full choke Ithaca M37 starting in the early 60's for deer. Never had an issue with it.

I have reloading manuals from Hornady, Sierra, Lyman, Lee, Speer and a couple others. I still say the Lyman manuals have more good info in them than any other. However, just like auto repair manuals, you'll find some info in one manual that is not in another manual. There is a lot of actual reloading data available on the internet these days if you look at both the powder manufacturer and bullet manufacturer web sites. But the "how to" and reasons aren't as good on the web sites. For me, the "secret" to reloading reliable safe ammo has been attention to detail at every step. Inspecting the brass several times (before sizing, after sizing, after inserting the primers after the bullet is seated and the case mouth crimped - if I'm reloading a round that requires crimping the case mouth.) When you ask a question, on the internet or with a group of friends, you'll most likely get differing answers, and you'll have to figure out which one works best for you and what you are doing. Good luck. It's fun, it could supply you with ammo during times the store shelves are bare, if can supply you with ammo that will shoot better in your gun, than what you can buy at the store.

Just put one of the straight SA triggers in a SP01 Compact (the steel framed Compact with a rail). Had some issues with not enough forward travel of the trigger. Backed the screw off till it no longer protruded from the front of the trigger and still had the problem. I ended up sanding (have a small 1" wide hobby bench type belt sander) an angle of the lower front of the trigger to let it pivot farther forward. That let the trigger bar move farther forward, too. Tested it and it worked. Put the screw back in it (removed it for the sanding) and went through the adjustment process and it's working great now. Easier to remove metal from the front/lower corner of the trigger than to try to remove metal from the front of the trigger slot in the frame. Hope it helps you with your trouble shooting.

Some of us on the CZ Forum have been down this road. One of the other guys built a really nice looking one and the more I looked at that thread the better it looked and I had to do it, too. Mine has the CGW match barrel bushing race hammer and adjustable sear floating trigger pin with reduced power trigger return spring Tactical Sport left/right side safeties 15# hammer spring reduced power firing pin block spring The disconnector was removed Meprolight night sights Cajun Gun Works was out of stock on the straight trigger so I ordered mine from CZ USA. The only part I stoned/polished was the outsides of the trigger bar where it slides against the inside of the frame. SA trigger pull dropped from a draggy/gritty 5.5 lbs. to a nice crisp 2.5 lbs. (which may get better as it breaks in as I've not gotten around to shooting it yet.

Lee is reported (by many folks) to be very good about replacing broken parts if you contact them. I've never done it though. My first Lee hand primer lasted almost 20 years. The second one is still going. Those are the old round pan models. I bought one of the new square ones and it's a "jamamatic model". Constantly flipping primers when feeding them into the ram area and inserting them. The primer flipper tray part is basically non-working, too, as compared to the older round models. So then I bought one of the latest versions, with the triangular primer tray. It's possibly even worse than the square tray model. Primer flipper nubs don't work for beans. Primer will turn up almost sideways and get hung up in the tray. Primers will jam up in the feed chute to the ram. I need to scour the local gun shows for a bit to see if I can find someone with a couple of the old models for sale and pick those up. Call Lee and see what they tell you.

I used to see it when I used Lee 9MM carbide dies. I switched to RCBS 9mm carbide dies and it hasn't happened since. The Lee dies seemed a little tighter? or had less chamfer at the bottom/inside edge? The Lee dies always took way more force/effort to resize 9MM cases than even resizing rifle cases (except for some of that machine gun fired 7.62X51 brass I bought this spring).

Used 3n1 oil for almost 30 years, then started using Mobil 1 (I have plenty since that's what I use on my cars/truck and there's always a little bit left to drain from the jugs after an oil change.). I buy those little GI plastic oil bottles that come in the M16 cleaning kits. I'm a compulsive "over oiler". If there's too much the gun will toss off the excess. If there's too little, you may have a problem with function. Some 1911's run great out of the box. Some need help. Awesome pistols. I carried one at work (about 5 years) and away from work for about 35 years.

Do you mean make contact? Or the trigger pinches your finger? My first CZ was a P07 DUTY in .40 S&W, with that curved trigger. My second was a P09 9MM with that sort of straight trigger (in the middle) with the little forward curve at the bottom. I couldn't really tell the difference. Then I bought a P09 in .40 S&W and that same trigger (as in the 9MM P09) was just pinching/biting my trigger finger enough to make it uncomfortable enough to shoot. I ordered and installed an old P07 DUTY (curved) trigger in the .40 S&W P09 and never had a trigger issue again.

I bought my P09 9MM because my P07 .40 S&W shot so well and because of Joe's videos I saw on the CZ Forum. I wasn't disappointed. First day at the range, 12 yds. off hand, first shot was a little low/left. Took the second shot and could not see where it hit on the paper. I'm trying to figure out how the hell I missed the whole darn target at only 12 yds. Took the third shot and the hole got just enough bigger I could tell it. Three shots (first three shots) from the pistol and it was a better group than some of my rifles shoot at 25 yds. Yes, I was sold. Went out and bought another in .40 S&W. And yes, the CZ 75's feel better in my hand but for me it's all about how small the group is, not what feels good in my hand (unless it's a 2X2 feeling Glock that shoots patterns instead of groups, then the feel counts, too). None of my CZ 75/85 pistols shoot with the P09 or P07.

I look for awhile. If I don't find it pretty quick I yell at my wife and she comes to help look for it (and usually finds it). I was working on a CZ 75 SA the other day and launched the trigger return spring (a CGW reduced power spring, too). I thought I had my finger covering the frame but it made it out between my finger tip back. I hear it hit the kitchen cabinets on the other side of the table, bounce off those and hit the back wall of the mud room and then hit again somewhere in the mud room. I moved every piece of furniture, every bag/box was moved and emptied, moved my wife's elliptical trainer, the rugs at the door and coat rack, even the shoe stand and pulled all the pairs of shoes out of it and dumped them upside down. No luck. I hollered at my wife and she came in to help. She found it under the freezer up against the kitchen to mud room wall. That "reduced power" trigger return spring had traveled about 25 ft. while bouncing off cabinets, walls and the floor. Oh, trigger pull on the SA is down to 2 lbs. now. No kidding, I launched an M1 Garand extractor spring out the window of the reloading shed into the grass one day and she round that for me. I wouldn't trade her for anything.