M1A4ME

RCBS, but the same idea. It would push the primers out but the primer stuck to the tip, then as the shell casing moved downward it would pull the primer partly back into the pocket before pulling it off the tip of the pin. I used a Dremel and cut off wheel to bevel one side a little bit, so it wasn't uniformly round/tapered anymore. That's all it took.

Belus, Some were in a Pre B, some in a CZ 75B in .40 S&W and one in a CZ Tactical Sport .40. In the Pre B it was four out of eight of some 19 round magazines I'd ordered. The mag well was opened up some (using 16 round magazines as a guide) before I had it refinished. In the CZ75B .40 it was three new 14 round (12 round with the Mecgar +2 bases on them) and one out of seven of the Tac. Sport magazines (these were used, so it may have been dropped, banged around some??)

I keep reading, on the CZ Forum, that Mecgar makes the CZ magazines. If they are made for CZ they are stamped CZ and CZ adds $10 or so to the price of them. If Mecgar makes/sells them they stamp Mecgar on them and they are cheaper than the CZ magazines. One issue would be that it's tough (impossible?) to put the +2 round plastic Mecgar and CZ bases on a 16 round magazine and use it in a full sized pistol. The body isn't long enough to provide the room needed between the frame and the top of the base (BTDT). You need the 17 round magazines for those +2 round bases. I have had issues with both Mecgar and CZ stamped magazines not fitting correctly in the magazine wells of CZ pistols. Sometimes a "fat" magazine slips through QC. Or a skinny mag well. I don't know for sure which is at fault.

I had one of 7 or 8 .40 S&W magazines that would not drop free from my Tactical Sport. It was pretty ragged looking compared to the other ones. Ragged along the corners and rough looking welds, again, as compared to the other ones. All are CZ marked magazines. Some have extended bases on them and some don't. I did some measuring with calipers and then some sanding of the shiny and rough looking corners. Took two sanding sessions to make it work. Cold blued it and no issues since. Another guy on the CZ Forum had issues with his and squeezed them in a vise a bit to eliminate the hanging issues. And his were brand new magazines that were hanging up. I've had more issues with CZ magazines being tight/draggy and hanging up than any other brand of pistol/magazine. Something isn't consistent, don't know if its the magazines or the mag. well. I bought three brand new CZ .40 S&W CZ75 magazines with the +2 bases on them and all three were very difficult to get into the mag. well on the new pistol. They were fine empty but really tight when loaded. I could remove one round from the magazine and it would insert and lock in just fine. I took the +2 bases off them and they worked just great with only 12 rounds in them. Then I had to buy new Wolf +10% springs for them to get them to push the slide release up hard enough to fully lock it into position in the notch of the slide. You have choices. Modify the magazines you have, modify the mag. well of the pistol, or buy new magazines and hope those work correctly.

I've shot corrosive ammo through my M1A (S&B .308) when I didn't have access to hot water. Carb cleaner followed by standard cleaning with brushes, patches and bore cleaner worked. I've shot corrosive Russian surplus through my 5.45X39 AR15. You can't beat hot water for cleaning. If it's hot enough the metal will be dry by the time you get to the point where you're inspecting, wiping down with an oily cloth and adding oil to the spots that need more. If you don't trust the quick evaporation of very hot water you can use a compressor or hair dryer to make you feel better that you have all the moisture out of the nooks/crannies. Just be sure to oil it properly afterwards. Hot water works similar to brake/carb cleaner. It removes all the protective oils from the surface of the metal.

I have not tried it on nickel revolvers/pistols, but there is an automotive cleaner/was called Never Dull. It's in a round silver can. It cleans rust off glass, most of the rust of chrome bumpers bicycle rims, cleans brake dust off chrome and painted automotive rims/wheels, etc. Pull off a small piece and rub it on the surface till you get the crud cleaned off. The residue will dry to a hazy look. Just grab a clean dry cloth and wipe the hazy look away. Again, never tried it on nickel, so read on the label on the can prior to using it on a nickeled pistol. Good luck.

I put the 100-154 kit in my 2.0. Absolutely awesome trigger/improvement. Once it resets the forward travel/finger stops. Pull to the rear and it releases/fires. Very little movement in either direction. Very little. It's still a 3 lb. trigger pull, but so crisp.

The right hammer also helps. I've not used a hammer from CZ Custom (they are supposed to be nice/good, too) but I've used a couple/three from Cajun Gun Works. The depth/shape/finish of the hammer hooks contributes to the distance the trigger moves before the sear releases the hammer and the amount of force required to get it to move far enough. If you replace the hammer with a nicer one you will probably need to either buy an adjustable sear from CGW or modify your safety (the cam on the left side safety shaft that fits under the forward arm of the sear) to work as the hammers with shorter hooks usually set the sear arm a little farther forward/down. Believe me when I tell you buying the adjustable sear is a lot easier than modifying the safety cam. I did that once, after that I just buy the CGW adjustable sears.

I have "cheap" Bushnells and Nikons on many of my ARs and haven't had one break yet. A Leupold should be just fine.

I moved to VA in 1985 and put my reloading stuff in the attic of the new house. Several years later (2005 or 2006) I ran across a bag with 4,000 primers and several cans of powder in a cabinet over in the corner. IMR 4895, 3031, 4350, 4320, 4064, 4198. Bullseye, Unique, H110, 2400, etc., etc. That powder, some never opened, but most used out of to some extent, had been in the non-climate controlled attic for 20 years, or so. I used up all the primers and all the powder except the IMR4350, 4320 and 4064. All the pistol powder was used up. Not a single failure to fire, not a single whoops/poof load from bad powder and some of it shot so well it got me to buy more of powders I'd dismissed in testing back in the early 80's (the H335 never did well in my M700 .223 Varmint Special, but gave me some excellent accuracy in the AR15's). So, at least 20 years, and mine was kept in pretty poor condition. Heat/humidity in central VA gets downright nasty in the summer. Some days the heat index is over 100 F. Winters are damp and cool/cold. I've been keeping my powder/primers in my garage (also non-climate controlled) for the last 5 years or so. It's over 110 F in there some summer afternoons. Again, no problems so far.

If you don't like to "tinker" with it. Send it to someone who can do what you want done to it. There are members here on the forum who work on CZ's as a business and do really nice work.

I seems the M&P's are pretty variable in fit/tolerances. Work necessary to fit a barrel on one won't be required on the next pistol right beside it on the shelf. For mine, I only had to remove metal from the rear where the two tabs contact the slide. Slow/steady with lots of wiping/checking before I finished up. Made a big difference in the groups. It seems to especially like the Winchester 124 grian FMJ Nato ammo. For what it's worth, on my 5" 2.0 FDE the Apex barrel made a much bigger improvement in the group size than the Apex trigger set up. I like the trigger a lot, super nice, but the barrel had a bigger effect on shrinking the groups, for me.

One thing is you are gradually compressing the spring that makes the hammer move forward and strike the firing pin. Another is you are compressing the small spring on the firing pin block. And your are twisting the trigger return spring. And you are moving parts that rub against each other (friction) that adds to the feel of the trigger pull. Lots of parts and work that will improve the feel and reduce the force required to shoot it double action.

Yup. Ordered three Mecgar 14 round .40 S&W CZ75 magazines a few months back. Noticed they would just barely push the slide stop up. It was catching on the upper corner of the slide stop instead of moving fully upwards when the magazine was empty. Concerned me. I ordered some Wolf +10% magazine springs and they move that slide stop all the way up into the notch in the slide. Plus, I even took the +2 base off the magazine and the factory springs still didn't move the slide stop fully upwards into the notch in the slide. On the other hand, bought a new M&P 2.0 a few weeks back. Had a big coffee container of 9MM magazines from my first round with M&Ps and got several of them out of the container to use with the new pistol. I put some +2 bases on the 17 round factory magazines and had several failures to lock the slide back after the last round. Again, ordered new Wolf +10% magazine springs and replaced all the old springs (which were never really used all that much due to the reliability and accuracy issues that drove me away from the 1.0's in the first place.) I might have gotten a couple thousand rounds through the 1.0 before giving up on it. That was through several magazines. Picture of the old/used springs beside the two new S&W magazine springs (the two mags that were in the box with the new pistol). Lots of "shrinkage".

Slickest thing I saw at a rifle field shoot one day was an old guy pull a plastic spoon out of the trash, light plastic spoon with his lighter and then use the thick black smoke from the plastic spoon blackened that front sight really well. Not sure how hot the black smoke is, but it does a better/faster job than just the lighter by itself. Or, when you get home, put some tape on the front, rear and sides of the FO rod and the slide, then use some flat black spray paint to hit the metal parts of the front sight. Let it dry a few minutes and remove the tape.

I use an old plastic shell holder from a box of ammo. I seat the primers. I turn the cases base down in the plastic tray and charge all 50 of them with powder. Then I use a nice bright little flashlight to examine the charges. I make sure each piece of brass has powder in it, then I tilt the tray slightly towards me and again use the flashlight to shine into several cases at the same time. That allows me to quickly pick up on charge levels that look higher, or lower, than the charge levels in the cases around them. You'd be surprised how quickly your eye and mind will work together to point out differences to you.

The trigger return spring keeps the trigger pin in place. The pin is smaller in diameter in the center, where the coiled up spring rests. The OD of the pin where it fits into the frame is slightly smaller than the stock pin and is not a friction fit, so I can be pushed/popped out easier.

Sure, but my mind "tries" to tell me the primer pocket is larger, too. One of those, "It looks funny" but it really can't be kind of things.

Funny how the primer (at least to me) on the left look larger in diameter than the one on the right. I know it isn't, but it looks like it is. You wouldn't think a slightly flatter primer would look noticeably larger.

I have several different brands (always trying new/different stuff). I install/use BUIS on my AR's. If you don't then the following advice isn't needed - I buy/use mounts that put my scope where I can use the same cheek weld as the BUIS. No changes. Consistency is important, to me. If I have to pull the scope off I want my cheek/eye in the same place when I pop up the sights. I have a couple sets of Warne QD rings on "risers" on AR15's. I do like them. If I pull the scope off the riser, use the irons, and then reinstall the QD rings/scope in the same slots on the riser the scope/rifle/bullet is still dialed in. Oh, I have no consistency in scopes though. Some illuminated, some not, some low power variable, some mid range variable, some 1", and some 30 MM. Yeah, I know it's an old thread someone "restarted."

On the CZ Forum I've read it is better for TRS reliability/life to keep it lubed.

I don't remember, now, what I ordered or where I got it. I just looked at the Wolf Spring Co. web site. They say the factory M&P 9/40 striker spring is 4.5 lbs. and the factory Glock is 5.0 lbs. They offer higher power springs for Glock pistols (up to 6.0 lbs.) but not for the M&P. They only offer lighter striker springs for the M&Ps. They also say the lighter springs reduce trigger pull. I'd guess that the heavier springs may increase trigger pull some. https://www.gunsprings.com/GLOCK ®/cID1/mID5/dID116#131

Why do you feel the need for an extended tip on the striker? Been having failure to fire issues? One thing that was suggested to me a few years back when my M&P 9MM 1.0 was having those issues was to buy/install a Glock striker spring. They were said to be stronger springs and would result in the striker hitting the primer harder. They installed with no issue. Didn't fix mine as I had two other issues but I left the glock striker spring in mine even after I got it fixed. Not sure whether a stronger striker spring would up the trigger pull force required or not.

Don't compete. I do have, and carry, a P01 Omega. My first kydex holster came from Cleveland Kydex Co. Specifically to fit the TLR3 on the rail (and the taller suppressor sights on the Urban Gray P01). My second holster is a combination of leather and kydex from White Hat Holsters. I use it for the black P01 Omega with the Olight PL mini on the rail. I think (no proof) that that holster was actually made for a standard P01 (they are decocker models, not safety models). I have the safeties installed on my Omega pistols. When I'd holster the P01 Omega interference with the kydex would move the safety to the "FIRE" position. Notified White Hat Holsters and they told me I could send it back if I wanted. I took the heat gun and a common screw driver and relieved the kydex shell in a manner that locked the safety in the "SAFE" position when in the holster. I carry that Omega P01 in that White Hat holster quite a bit.

Looks like there is always some variance in results (like there is in new pistols). I put the 100-154 APEX kit in my 5" 9MM. The only spring I used from the kit was the one for the striker block. I left the factory trigger return spring and sear spring in. No polishing/stoning of any parts. Trigger pull tested out at 3&1/4 lbs. and is unbelievable on reset. You let the trigger out till you hear/feel the reset and stop. Movement to the rear between reset and release is undetectable to me. Did I say it was awesome? Much better results than my first APEX kit install in the 9MM 1.0 M&P FS several years ago. I would spend that money for the Apex kit again if I bought another M&P 2.0.