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Showing results for tags 'brass'.
Found 25 results
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Would you like to spend 8 days with Bob Marvel at his home shop in Crete, Nebraska? If you would like to learn more, please reach out to me. You can also find more information here: http://www.nelsoncustomguns.com/ If you have an interest in 1911 Pistolsmithing, you will not be disappointed. -
Some of my once fired brass for my .223 has scratches that are deep enough to feel with my fingernail, but they are tiny. Are these dangerous? or are they too small to cause any harm? i know dents are not too bad but i dont know what to consider for reload and not, because it is quite a few of them. but they have only been fired once. Thank for any advise.
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This little guy wouldn't gauge today. It took it minute before I noticed why. So what do you guys do when you discover a finished cartridge with a cracked case? Do you go ahead and shoot it? Or do you cut your loses and pull it? I know what I'm going to do with this guy...
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Just starting to reload 223 and happy to use range brass as I build my rifle skills. I know fire-forming brass to my bolt action will occur, just wondering if brass that has been dented during ejection is too risky to reload. My loads aren't going to start hot but will work there as I go for longer ranges and higher FPS. How much imperfection is still safe?
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I purchased about 1000 rounds of once fired, cleaned, brass online a few months ago and just got around to reloading some of them. They all appear to have some kind of crimping or indents on the mouth. I have never seen this before. Maybe from a puller or something? Mixed head stamps. But they all seem to be non usable because it pushes out burs,for the lack of a better word, after the sizing die. I currently use a Lee sizer, but I have tried my Dillon die as well with same results. I can get all the way through the reloading process but the necks all feel like there is a rough lip remaining. They do still properly fit in a case gauge. I first couldn't figure out what the cause was and thought it was a die issue. But after swapping out everything and then running different brass through they all came out fine, so its definitely the brass. I even tried crimping down way to much to see if it smooths out but they don't. Using a chamfer didn't make a difference either. The pic makes it look like there is lip on the mouth but it feels smooth to the neck. I use a Dillon 650 if it matters. Any thoughts of how to save the brass?
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I'm new to reloading and new to 9 major. I have a quick question, how specific is 9mm brass needed in reloading for 9 major? I think I've read somewhere that you can't reuse 9 major brass as often and some say because of the pressure the wouldn't reuse it at all. I've also just stumbled across +P brass which I didn't even know was a thing. Should I stick with only new brass, once fired brass, processed range brass or +P brass?
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So, I've been in a bit of a quandary since I found out that I cannot shoot my S&W Performance Center 1911 in Single Stack due to the cuts in the slide. My other 1911 is a Kimber Stainless Target II in 10 mm which I hardly shoot. I've been toying with shooting that in SS, down-loading to a PF of 170 to eliminate the excessive recoil of a typical factory 10 mm round. What gives me pause are the numerous comments I see the forums about how no one shoots 10 mm in competition because the brass is not only more expensive but is hard to retrieve on the range because so few people shoot it. So my question is: does anyone actually shoot a 10 mm in competition and enjoy it? I have this fear of becoming obsessive about collecting my own brass, which isn't always practical between stages. I've also thought about rechambering in 40 S&W to alleviate this problem, but it sure would be nice to shoot the gun I already have. I appreciate any thoughts on the matter!
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This photo was posted in another forum. The question was to scrap or reload. Note that this was found because the user deprimed, cleaned their 9mm brass and inspected it rather than depriming on stage 1 during their progressive loading.
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Hey guys, I bought some once fired brass recently. Found a handful that look darker, like gunmetal. They aren't steel. Some odd head stamp, characters not English. But I have some with same stamp that are plain brass. Anyone know how this was done? Looks great. Don't know how it loads yet Red
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I am new to the vendor forum but have been a BE member since 2006. I have been accumulating range brass for resale and would like you to keep an eye on this forum for some great looking brass. I will be posting what I have in the near future. Thanks for visiting. Bshooter
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So I was hoping you guys could help me out with something. I have a small business selling once fired brass. Our sales were always through word of mouth, a couple LGS and facebook, of course the liberal anti-gun facebook has shut us down. We have tried GunBroker but get very little activity. So where is a good online source to sell once fired brass? Thank you very much. joe l
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It appears the Armscor brass used loading 38SC is not as durable as the Starline brass. After shooting the Armscor brass will have a burr on the rim of the case. This happens to perhaps 3% of the fired Armscor brass. This must be removed before it will slip completely into a case guage. The Starline brass does not seem to have this problem. Is this typical?
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Was under the impression I was out of brass, 9mm anyway. Called up a buddy and he brought me over about 1100 in a big baggie. Went out to the garage to tumble them tonight, and the tumbler was full of tumbled 9mm brass already run through the u die. Hmm, well I guess I'll have to separate that I thought and went to run them through the sieve and into my one of two catch 5gal buckets.... It's full of media (1/2 full) that is full of more 9mm brass run through the tumbler and the u die. Looks like I have about 5k and only have to de-prime/resize about 1100 that I tumbled today. Went and discovered I have more than enough powder, and primers to cover that, and need only get another 3.5k projectiles for that. Just awesome!!! Less mental stress looking at the upcoming year.
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I got my rotary tumber in today and all I can say is WOW!!! Wow wow wow!!! The brass looks brand spanking new! It's sorta a pain in the A$$ to get the pins separated without a traditional case separator but completely worth it!! I can't say enough good things about it! Any one on the edege about getting one. DO IT!!! Pic. Before on left after in middle and new on right.
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I'm curious what others do here to avoid getting burned by hot brass particularly while timing someone else? Certainly a wide-brimmed hat helps to some degree as does buttoning the top of one's shirt, if one is wearing a collared shirt. Does anyone here wear turtlenecks or neck wraps of some kind (maybe a kerchief?), especially during the winter? When I time others I reflectively put my hand up to guard my throat, but it should be placed to control the shooter so it would be nice to hear what others do/use?
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Hello from BrassDepot.com Once fire Military Brass Specialist for 5.56, 300 AAC Blackout Brass and much more. We hold a class 7 FFL and always have price match and money back guarantee with all your brass needs. Thank you from BrassDepot.com
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I received an e-mail from The American Marksman (http://www.theamericanmarksman.com) for processed 45ACP brass at a great price but have never heard of them. Anyone buy from them and if so, what was your experience & product quality?
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I've got a few hundred once-fired HRTRS brass for .45ACP and am finding they are much more difficult to seat large primers than the Feds, Win, and other brass I've got. Anyone have any similar experience with HRTRS? Tips on how to get these primer pockets open so they seat more easily? I'm sorting the brass by headstamp now and will run a simple pocket cleaner tool through them, but my gut tells me that won't do too much. It's almost like the primer pocket is too shallow. I can get the primer to seat properly if I use a good deal of force (about twice what the non-HRTRS brass need) on the forward stroke on my SDB to seat them properly. Will they primers pop with that kind of force spread evenly over the primer cup face? I ran a couple at the range and they ignited normally and didn't have any overpressure or stress signs. Not a lot found on "HRTRS" doing a quick search through the topics, so hopefully I'm helping more than myself out!
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How many uses are you getting from your Starline 38 super comp brass? I'm relatively new to the caliber - for me, it seems to get "bulge-y" after 2 or 3 uses. Load: 124 MG JHP, 9gr HS6
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Just got my first open gun, so I now need to make ammo Up until now, I've reloaded 9 and 45 - and you can find that brass almost anywhere. 38sc brass is harder to come by, and Starline/Midway/Powder Valley/etc seem to be perpetually out of stock. Who else makes 38sc brass? (Admittedly, I tried to search the site, but any combo of search terms only brought results that talked about Starline). Thanks in advance folks!
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Hello to all that have the convenience of a sporting good store near you. Nowadays that might not even matter with limited supply of everything. Well I joined this forum in hopes that people can help me with my new venture, loading on the xl650, bought from Brian super guy to deal with. First of all I have been shooting for years, 300 savage, 410/22over, and savage max 1 22/250 get shot the most. So the first problem is, yes I know it has been asked and answered with a hundred opinions, I need a die set for the loader. I specifically want to know the model and brand of 22-250 dies that are being used in the xl650. Yes I know any standard die works, Lee dies might be a little shorter, redding and rcbs are among the best but what 22-250 die is in your machine with model number. And second where is the powder that is in stock? IMR 8208 xbr preferably and the H4895 second. ;
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This week only, take 10% off all Ballistic Tools brass products with coupon code BRASS. You must "view cart" to apply the code before you check out. All of our brass is high quality and fully processed; ready to load. Primed brass is a good way to save on Hazmat shipping, or go unprimed to take advantage of postal flat rate shipping. We always ship quickly and the stock on the web site is in real time. Several items have limited stock, and some will sell out, so get your order in early. -
I remember a thread a couple of years ago that rated used brass by brand. I've done several searches and can't find it. Any oldtimers remember the thread? Thanks
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Just finished sorting my first 1500 9mm cases (first timer) and it wasn't as bad as I feared. Along the way I found some "extras": 42 .380s 2 Tokarevs 1 Makarovs 1 .357 SIG 3 22 LRs (hiding in cases) 2 Steel cases One case however is giving me pause because, even though I found it, I could easily see myself missing it, and it's the most concerning of all: Does anyone have a suggestion on how best I should look for this sort of problem? The only thing I can think of is rolling every one of them between my fingers "one revolution" to see the whole of the case, but hopefully there's an easier way? Just I'm doubtful just upending them and inspecting would have found this...
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Hi all, I just bought a used RT1200 trimmer. It didn't come with the vacuum manifold. Dillon will sell me a vacuum manifold for $16.50, but that seems to me like an awful lot for a fairly simple piece of plastic (I love Dillon and don't mind supporting them, but still... ). I've seen similar vacuum manifolds for other tools, and they're cheap. Does anybody here know of an alternative to the Dillon vacuum manifold?
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