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M1A4ME

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Everything posted by M1A4ME

  1. My M&P 9MM FS is a first gen. I had trigger issues (took two fingers and pulling it towards the right side to get it to release the striker). Brand new, should have sent it back, didn't - ordered an APEX CAEK kit and installed it and fell in love with the trigger (as compared to the original even when it was working). A couple years later I got into failure to fire issues. Ended up being timing and sear flutter (small dent on the primer when the striker was hitting the striker block after the trigger was pulled=timing) or no dent in the primer (sear flutter let the striker go forward with the slide when it chambered the next round). What I'm saying is, even when the striker wasn't caught by the sear it never went off. I was getting that for 3 to 4 rounds from every magazine. About 20 to 25 percent of the time I had a failure to fire. My finger is on the trigger when the slide goes forward to pick up the next round and chamber it (I'll bet every one else still has the trigger back after firing, too). I'd think, based on the design and my experiences that he'd have had to let up on the trigger (if his finger was holding it back) when he chambered the round to get it to reset, and then pulled it again to make if fire. Just a guess, but I don't think I read about people having this issue with the Gen 1 M&P's. Just terrible lousy triggers, poor accuracy, reliability issues, etc.
  2. I wipe/brush out every time (don't shoot it that much/that often) and re-lube. If it were as nasty as some of my .223's have been then I'd just separate the upper from the lower, hold the lower by the stock and spray it out with carb cleaner. Just be sure to wear safety glasses/goggles - you don't what that stuff in your eyes. Did it once, never want to do that again. After it dries I spray some lube in (gotta get some oil/lube back on the bare metal after carb spray cleaning) and the lube the springs/trigger/hammer pin, safety, take down pins, magazine release and bolt hold open parts with Mobil 1 and it's good to go till the next time.
  3. I shoot mine first. I've had a couple that I didn't feel would benefit from the bushing. I've also had a couple that didn't shoot good groups from the box and adding the bushing helped them. Some pistols just shoot better than others. Combination of parts thing.
  4. Doggone it. I parked my M&P's 6 years ago over reliability and accuracy issues and wen to CZ's. But watching that video made me think about buying an aftermarket barrel for the 9MM to see if I can get it to shoot better.
  5. DI RMR because is works 24/7 with no chance of electrical issues and no need to remove it and resight it for battery changes.
  6. One of the issues I had with my M&P 9MM (full sized model) was light strikes. That one was a timing issue. The striker block was not being lifted quite high enough to clear the striker on every shot. When it didn't I'd hear a funny sounding click/rattle noise instead of a bang and the primer would have a slight/light dent in it. There are threads here and there about how to fix that. I don't want to give advice as I'm not a gun smith or M&P expert. I just had a similar issue. Mine had an APEX CAEK kit in it, just for info.
  7. 1911 don't break parts they don't have/need. The new stuff has a reputation for damaging/breaking the firing pin retaining pins (CZ's, XD/XDM's, etc.) My Browning BDM broke the firing pin the first weekend I had while I was dry firing. Didn't even get it to the range first. My 1917 made Colt 1911 has had the same firing pin in it since at least 1978 when I bought it, for all I know, it might be the original firing pin. That's what I'm talking about.
  8. How many rounds are you reloading in one session? I've had my uniflow (with some powders) start off where I set it (adjusting, weighing, adjusting, weighing - till I get it right) and then part of the way through the hopper the charge weight will increase. Doesn't do it will all powders, in fact, it's more apt to do it with flake/IMR powders. It seems to need some use to settle the powder down uniformly in the hopper. I never let the hopper go below the halfway mark. Adding powder back to the hopper then gives the "fresh" powder time to settle/compact by the time it gets to the rotor. I learned this years ago and was already in the habit of it when I started using H335 and BLC2, so I can't say how the uniflow would have done with them if I let the hopper run almost empty before topping it off.
  9. 1. My P01's firing pin block is also slightly "up" when the side is off the frame. So, probably normal (never really paid much attention to it.) The firing pin return spring is a nice stout spring - like all the CZ springs. They make them for "duty" use. Military, police, etc. You can buy target/competition CZ's but yours and mine were not built for that. You can modify it/have it modified for target/competition use (yeah, you can actually make it shoot better than it currently does-ain't that wild.) Now you know why my glock/xdm/m&p/browning pistols are in the safe these days). 2. When the slide contacts those raised humps on the trigger bar you get a combination of friction and working against the trigger bar spring to push the trigger bar down, that's normal. Once it gets over those humps and the slide is in place you'll have to move the slide backwards to line up the take down marks and it has to move the hammer back to half cock, so you're also fighting the hammer spring plus friction of moving the parts. Go ahead and move the hammer back to the half cock position with your thumb, then line up the take down marks and see how it feels. Keep it clean. Keep it lubed. Most CZ folks say after you shoot it about 500 rounds you'll be able to tell how much it smooths itself out.
  10. For several years now. Same lube for the CZs and the AR15's. And the non - greased areas of the M1A and M1 Garands.
  11. Mine is pretty old (mid 1930's). It was graded "poor" by the big gun store I bought it from. Pretty "brown" all over when I bought it. Some 0000 steel wool and 3n1 oil showed it was still pretty blue with only one spot of pitting (on the receiver, none anywhere else). The checkering was pretty much worn off the stock/forend so I put a Ramline synthetic set on it. The I added the extended magazine tube/spring/cap to bring the total to 10 rounds. It worked when I bought it but I went ahead and completely disassembled it and cleaned out 80 years of old oil/dirt and replaced the springs and a couple of the smaller screws someone had butchered up in the past. Also put new friction rings on it. I was going to get the barrel shortened and get rid of the polychoke but the gunsmith told me that would be a mistake. He said it appeared the polychoke was original since there were no stars on the barrel to denote the barrel choke (I had to look that one up on the internet.)
  12. With the old guns I just made sure they were empty and practiced. With these new fangled modern wonders that damage roll pins I've gone ahead and bought those special dry fire rounds so I don't have to worry about damaging the firing pin/striker retaining pins.
  13. At the local pet stores I've bought from they call the crushed walnut shells "lizard bedding".
  14. I would think the best test for changes to the powder would be a combination of velocity/accuracy tests. It's not just size/shape with powder as some have burn inhibitors on the surface of the kernels/flakes/balls.
  15. If I've used resizing lube I run the brass through the vibratory cleaner (crushed walnut shells) right after resizing/belling. Thirty minutes does it. I bought an appliance timer at Lowes. Had two outlets on it. I set it for 30 minutes (an hour if I'm to lazy to play with it till I get it to 30 minutes). Then I run it through a second vibratory cleaner (crushed walnut shells again) with a dribble of nufinish car wax poured on the media about every three batches. Brass is shinier than without the wax and stays shiny longer. If I have some really nasty looking brass I segregate the pieces out till I get enough for a batch to put in the wet tumbler with the pins/water/lemishine and run that for 4 to 6 hours. I then run that damp/wet brass through the first (the one used to clean dirty brass) vibratory cleaner to dry the brass out. Then it gets run through the vibratory cleaner with wax before reloading it.
  16. Stud framed, T11 siding, plywood interior floors/ceiling/walls with 3" insulation top/bottom/sides. Big overhangs front/back for more shade in the summer and to help keep the rain off them and their porch. These three are our 5th, 6th and 7th dogs since 1995. I did have to screw the rugs down on the patio/porches and inside as the bigger black dog likes to grab a run, drag it out into the dirt/grass and sleep under the stars. No kidding. I can put new rugs in the houses and in a day or two all of them will be outside getting rained on. Stainless steel round head wood screws and big stainless washers keep the rugs where I put them.
  17. Same three guys hanging on a cold rainy day just a few days after all that snow melted. The two black dogs are on the rugs on the covered front porch. The new kid is sleeping out in the rain on a 45 F day. Sound asleep in the cold rain. They've got three dog houses with rugs on the floors and two covered porches with rugs and he's sleeping in the cold rain to be next to his buddies, I guess. Oh, that patio the big guy is on is 6 ft. wide by 3 ft. deep. He's 10 months old.
  18. My three. The old/smart guy lying on the carpeted patio in front of the covered/carpeted porch on the big dog house. The two younger/larger guys lying out in the snow together.
  19. Have you replaced the striker in the Glock? Seems I read, somewhere, a few weeks back about the tips on some glock strikers wearing early/short life. I don't want to get into the MIM arguments, and maybe part of the reason for the discussion was someone selling tool steel strikers for Glocks and some other handguns. Then there's the striker spring replacement, etc. If you're primers are seated as they should be I'd try new springs first, then a new striker. I've put extended firing pins in some of my CZ's (from CGW) but on others I left the stock firing pins installed. Haven't had to trouble shoot a like strike issue in anything but my S&W M&Ps. That was a combination of light strikes/no strikes and was finally identified as sear flutter (no strike) and timing (light strike) when the striker block wasn't quite out of the way when the sear released the striker. I don't know if Glocks can have timing issues or not (sear releasing striker before the striker block is fully raised would be a timing issue.)
  20. I keep reading/hearing that Mecgar makes the CZ magazines. They stamp CZ on them and CZ adds $12 or $14 or more to the price and sells them. I've never had an issue, so far, with the CZ or Mecgar magazines losing control of rounds at the top. I have read about people having issues with the top round being dragged forward by the slide. The advice I've seen about that is to polish the center section of the slide that pushes the top bullet into the chamber so it slides over that next bullet without dragging it forward. Reduced friction and all. Can't say it works, as I've never had to do it, but other people advise it. Good luck. Oh, the reason people ask about it seems to be that when they don't empty the magazine, that top round, having been pulled forward, hangs up the nose of the bullet on the feed ramp and makes it difficult to remove the partially loaded magazine - or keeps it from falling out when the magazine release is pushed.
  21. I shoot mine first. I don't think some need a bushing. I've got a couple that I ordered/installed CGW bushings in. The groups "cried out" for help and I'm sure on the Compact it helped a lot, looking at the groups from the first range trip after the install. As to wear? Like the thread on the CZ Forum about what causes dirty barrels/increases barrel fouling, there's factors to barrel wear. Some people feel guns run better with little to no lube. I've read some people claim they run their "dry" because that's the way it's supposed to be. Cleaning frequency? How much does a bunch of crud build up increase wear on the metal parts? How fast they shoot it/how hot it gets? Then the stuff you can't control like how the bushing and barrel fit together from the factory. Some small difference in clearance/angle/contact surface amounts might affect things like wear, too.
  22. I don't game/play/compete, but I like my red dot far enough in front of the rear sight that I can flip the rear sight and use it if needed. I really don't care much for red dots as I always shoot better groups with a scope, but I still have some on a few of the AR15's. I have one, an AR pistol in .223 with a DP Pro mounted out on the free float rail. It's way out there with a pistol, right. So I thought I'd mount it out on the rail and see how it worked. Works great so far. DP Pro with the big ugly triangle. The triangle appears "smaller" out there but is still easily visible/usable.
  23. Same guy was in the movie about Benghazi. He has the right "feel" for someone who thinks he's a quiet, easy going, analyst type but is able to rise to the occasion when things go south. As the female French cop told him, "You keep saying you are not a wolf, but I think you are a wolf trying to be a sheep." Or something to that effect.
  24. The Omega P01's are good pistols. I have a couple. One was my EDC for several months last summer/fall. No mechanical/accuracy issues with it, just that the weather changed and I'm carry open around my house/garage/property till warm weather comes back next year. If the one you're looking at has had the CGW work done then it's a pretty darned good pistol. I actually really like the way the P01 feels in my hand. My first was the Urban Gray model. Every time I picked it up I immediately feel that difference in the grip vs. my other CZ's. I figured it must be those vertical grooves in the front and back of the grip frame. Every time. It was odd that that pistol felt so good in my hand. Not just different, but good. That's part of the reason I bought the black P01 Omega. Feels just as good. I have a P07, too. It is my EDC when I'm out in the car/truck running around getting shopping done, gassing up cars, grocery store, eating out, etc. It has an RMR/back up sights on it and is a really good pistol, too. If you can get a P01 with all the CGW work already done on it for a similar price to a new P07, you'll be ahead as the money, effort and parts are already in the P01. And, as you mentioned, magazines are much cheaper for the P01.
  25. I'll have to keep an eye on mine. I'd assumed they were more rust resistant than the blued metalforms I also use. I wipe both types/brands down with the same oily cloth I wipe the surfaces of guns down with, but figured the ASCs were still not as likely to rust.
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