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Found 16 results

  1. I have a Hornady Lock-N-Load scale and have been using it for a couple of years now but I recently noticed something weird while using it... I dump gunpowder into the metal powder pan while dialing my machine in but I get a different reading/amount if I have the plastic cover on. It weighs more if I take the cover off. Has anyone else noticed this? Am I doing it wrong? Should I keep it off. I was startled to see the grains jump by .2 or .3 when I took it off. I typically keep the cover on - it has a hole in the middle so I just dump the powder from a brass case down inside it to the pan. I feel like I'm less likely to make a mess with the cover plastic cover on as it would prevent powder from flying everywhere. Thanks in advance.
  2. https://photos.app.goo.gl/f6CSo61bNbfvNxGbA https://photos.app.goo.gl/SZ1sB7VHe28UeZVj7 Ok so I shot a local Steel match last weekend, pretty much Production div. using a gen 4 glock G19 with stock barrel. On 2 separate occasions, different stages, different mags, I got total lock-up of the gun. Bulged cases that won't fully enter the chamber. I drop the mag and bang on gun to get the slide open. Confirm, yep, bulged case. Now to my own fault I *thought* I case gauged every round for the match, didn't do it at home instead did it as I was loading the mags for each stage. Won't do that again, obviously 2 of these slipped by. So I'm like WTF, 1 bulged is going to happen, 2 is cause for concern. Go home, check out my sizing die and what do I find, but a 22LR case the was totally pierced by my decapping pin. It was preventing the empty case from seating completely into the sizing die, resulting in cases that are way too big. No idea how long its been on there. Must have been in with my 9mm brass getting tumbled and I didn't catch it when I placed the case in my press. Pulled it off, reset the die, cases are sized perfectly now. Also, since its steel challenge style rules, my 2 lockups were obviously my slowest runs on the 2 stages they happened during. Put it behind me and still pulled off a Division Win. ? Can't be the first time this has happened to someone, but I figured the pin would have broke rather than making it all the way through.
  3. I’m looking at buying a hornady LNL for mostly pistol caliber reloading, where is the best/cheapest to buy from? I’ve seen prices vary from $375-480
  4. I just bought a brand new pre 7000 serial # LNL press for a great price. It came with the powder drop that has the diagonal return spring and height arm with three notches. Can anyone give me some set up help on using the old style Hornady metering assembly? The all in one pistol/rifle metering assembly is new to me and I haven't been able to find any information on it. Specifically where/how to position the rifle meter when dropping pistol charges. Also it only came with two powder bushings. Should there be a third? My bushings measure 1.1" long with a .205 hole and a .750" length with a .291 hole. Thanks for any and all help! Brad
  5. I'm relatively new to reloading and, unfortunately, I've had a couple of squib loads, which has made me nervous about my reloading technique. I'm using a Hornady LNL, and my setup is the following: (1) resizing die, (2) powder drop/PTX expander, (3) bullet feeder, (4) seating, (5) taper crimp. I thought I was being careful about visually checking my charges, but apparently I've missed a few. I'd like to add an extra margin of safety by adding an RCBS lockout die (or I could use a Powder Cop, but I already have the lockout die). I thought I could solve the problem by combining the seating and crimping into one die to free up a station for the lockout die, but I'm using plated bullets, and I've read that seating and crimping simultaneously isn't a great idea with plated bullets. So what do I do? I've returned to using a single stage press for now, but there's no way I can crank out the number rounds I need that way.
  6. Often times, 223 cases will fall onto the shell plate when ejecting instead of falling into the cartridge bin. I've recorded a video to demonstrate what's happening. Apologies for the quality, it's a cell phone video and I didn't have a stand for the phone. Seen here: Video What I have tried so far: 1) Thoroughly cleaned everything on the subplate and the shell plate. Relubricated bottom of shell plate lightly. 2) Replaced case retainer spring (the one I had was worn out anyway). 3) Paid special attention to the ejector itself when cleaning. 4) Ensured shell plate was tightened down (I've never found Hornady's instruction to finger tighten only to be wise). I was having somewhat worse issues before replacing the case retention spring. The spring had a kink in it, and ejection from the slot where the spring's kink was was consistently worse. Replacing the spring hasn't fully solved the issue, but has reduced the rate of failure a little. I would say ejection failure runs between 10 and 20 percent. Usually once per full shellplate, sometimes twice. I don't think there is necessarily one bad slot on the shell plate. I have noted that the slots one and two positions counter clockwise from the shell plate number imprinted on the plate seem to be slightly worse. However, these don't fail *every* time, and ejection failures can happen on any slot in the shell plate. It's just that those two seem every so slightly more likely to choke. The press also generates a number of "near failures" where you can tell by the way the cartridge falls it almost fell the wrong way. I do not have this problem with 9mm or 45 ACP. I do have ejection issues with 357 magnum, but they are of a different nature: sometimes the shell plate gets stuck trying to eject a finished 357 cartridge. It looks like the rim sometimes rides over the ejector instead of being pushed out, but I'll try to fix that later, I only care about getting ejection on my 223 cartridges working right now. I checked my ejector for rounding off. Sometimes on Hornady presses the ejector can round off and cause issues, but mine does not look rounded off. Hard to get a photo that's in focus at that angle, this is just me getting down to eye level with the sub plate and eyeballing it.
  7. I am loading a lot of 223 on a progressive press. I've been using Hornady One Shot. If I don't remove the one shot from my loaded cases and fire them, should I expect increased bolt thrust in my rifle to mess up my bolt / headspace over time? FYI, I'm shooting an AR-15.
  8. First off, I have been reading everything I can lately regarding the 650. I feel like I have the blue itch. Lately it seems like I have spent more time tweaking a machine than loading. Currently I am loading on a Hornady LnL without case feeder, but I do have the bullet feeder tubes. I bought it 2 years ago after a ton of research. Mostly due to caliber conversion ease and being relatively new to loading. The internet pushed me that direction. Fast forward, I feel like I could have made a better choice. Now I shoot just production, at about 1k+ a month. All other loading is done on a single stage for revolvers. The volume on those is only 1500 a year. And I rarely shoot rifle anymore. So here is where I am. I'd love some real world input on time savings. Especially if anyone has used or owned both machines. I know its hard not to be biased sometimes. My idea is I can go down to the basement with a free hour and turn out 400+ rounds without having to tweak and adjust. Turnkey basically. Now understanding anything mechanical can fail and need maintenance will the 650 do this? And what in your honest opinions would you consider the drawbacks or cons of the 650?
  9. Took my brand-new Caldwell Chronograph to the range for the first time and shot 50 rounds of various loads through it. The Caldwell survived its trial by fire without a scratch, although I am saddened to report it has taken to strong drink to keep the nightmares at bay. I'd like to post all the data in a legible format, but the forum software keeps crushing the formatting, so I will just post the results: SA XDM 9mm 3.8 Full-size, 115gr Hornady FMJ, .355, OAL 1.151, TiteGroup 4.1: Avg:1091, SD 20.1, ES 68,PF 125 SA XDM 9mm 3.8 Full-size,Bayou Bullets 115gr coated, .356, OAL 1.161, TiteGroup 3.9 gr: Avg:1037, SD 7.0, ES 23, PF 115 SA XDM 9mm 3.8 Full-size,Bayou Bullets 115gr coated, .356,OAL 1.161, TiteGroup 4,1 gr: Avg:1080, SD 11,2, ES 37, PF 124 Hmm, only Blazer brass was used. Don't really know how to interpret the data, although AFAIK it shows I'm within safe parameters. For comparison purposes I shot some Blazer 115gr FMJ plinking rounds and some Federal Champion 115gr JHP self-defense rounds. I was considerably bemused to discover the JHP's had a detectably greater kick despite having the lowest average velocity. (Increased air resistance caused by air being rammed into the hollow points?) Blazer 115gr FMJ, .355: Avg:1117, SD 33.7, EX 107, PF !28 Federal Champion JHP, .355: Avg:964, SD 7.5 ES 24, PF 111
  10. I know that the Mr. Bullet Feeder rocks. Let's get that out of the way. My question is, does it rock more than twice as hard as the Hornady? I have decided that I might want to get a bullet feeder to speed up my loading process, but I am not really seeing the 136% value added of the MBF over the Hornady. I can get the Hornady for 250 plus the 22 dollar die, and I can use it for 9, 40, and 45 without buying expensive conversions (only another 22 dollar die). Watching videos of it work, it seems slower than the Mr. Bullet feeder, does anyone have an estimate of how fast it can feed? Will it still be the limiting factor of my loading process? I am loading on a 650, just by the way, and regularly load all 3 calibers, 9, 40 and 45 (so having conversions for each would be ideal). The way I have it figured, the Hornady feeder with dies for my 3 calibers would cost 316 bucks on Amazon. Ordering off Shooters Connection for the best price on the MBF, it would be 747 dollars. That's a big difference. Those with experience, let me know what you think! I look forward to hearing the comparisons between them.
  11. In the market for an electronic power dispensers/scale combo. Looking at the Hornady Lock n Load auto charge, RCBS Chargemaster & the Lyman units. I read several reviews on the Hornady, good & bad. Read several good reviews on the RCBS, & read several ok reviews on the Lyman units. Thinking about taking a chance on the Hornady since it is half the price of the RCBS. Anyone have any reviews of these set ups or any other brands to look at? Will be used for rifle cartridge reloading only, probably 100ish rounds once or twice a month at the most.
  12. Just wanting to see if anyone paid the extra $ for the benchrest model powder metering insert? I have the standard insert & was looking at maybe getting the rifle metering insert but then I saw the benchrest model. Anyone tried either the rifle or benchrest model?
  13. I'm experimenting with several different bullet types and vv n320 and 3n37 at the moment. Using the published VV data at this URL... http://www.lapua.com/en/products/reloading/vihtavuori-reloading-data/relodata/6/34 They use a COL of 1.142 for every load I see and with the hornady 147 XTP they seem like they are super long, ie very little ends up in the case. Anyone have any experience with these?
  14. I realize that I am posting this early as we do not even have the official date set yet but I wanted to share with everyone that we have a new Facebook page. That page along with our website will contain all the official information you need. Please stop by and like the page if you want updates. https://www.facebook.com/USPSAAREA3
  15. I've been reloading other pistol calibers (9, 44, 45) using the case feeder without a hitch. But with 38/357 brass it takes FOREVER for the brass to get to the feed tube. I started with the recommended large pistol feeder plate but nothing would ever get to the gate. With the small pistol plate some get to the tube but it can't keep up even when I manually load the tube initially and I'm not going very fast. Any ideas/suggestion?
  16. Hey all, New to reloading. Starting with the Hornady LnL AP. Loading 9mm and using the powder through expander. In order for me to get a decent bell on the case mouth, I had to shorten up the Powder Measure Stop to the point where the powder drum isn't getting a full rotation. I have the Powder Measure Stop set up to stop the drum about a half inch from topping out. When I had it set up for the full range of motion the PTX was way to low. Question is: How close to the top does the drum need to cycle in order for one to get a full powder drop? Is 1/2 inch from the top o.k.? I'll try getting a picture. - Vic
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