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M1A4ME

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Everything posted by M1A4ME

  1. The firing pin retaining pin on the CZ75B/BD/P07/P09 pistols (and others) is in that hole you see in the slides of the slide in the rear gripping notches. It holds the firing pin in place in the slide. The firing pin has a notch cut in the top of the shaft. The firing pin retaining pin controls the forward movement of the firing pin when the hammer strikes it with an empty chamber (more on some pistols than others - said only because I've seen some pins come right from the new box with damage to the pin and yet I've dry fired some of my CZ pistols for weeks, pulled the pin and they were in better shape than the new pistols/pins I mentioned). It also keeps the firing pin from flying out the back side of the slide when the hammer is off the firing pin (driven rearward by the firing pin return spring and slide inertia as the pistol functions in live fire. Different ideas about the pins/longevity. Some aftermarket pins are different steel, some are rolled/coiled type pins, some are solid pins depending on who makes them and what they believe will last longer/be better. As someone stated earlier - snap caps are damaged and lose effectiveness the more you use them. O-rings eliminate any firing pin to hammer contact, firing pin movement, firing pin to retaining pin contact and they don't suffer the damage and reduced effectiveness snap caps do. I will say that people who use the o-rings have suggested buying the red o-rings - because they are harder to forget and leave in the slide notch. Some people say they've finished a dry fire session with the black o-rings and put the pistol away with the o-ring still in place and then loaded the pistol up for carry/use. The red ones should stand out and help eliminate that mistake. No idea about the "right" size. I can't recall ever using one. I should dry fire more, and use the o-rings.
  2. Drive out the front sight pin (holds in the front sight and the bushing. Use an 11MM 1/4" socket against the inside/back of the bushing in the slide with a 1/4" extension as the driver (hit it with a hammer after securing the slide). I just use my left hand to hold the upside down slide (palm down) with my thumb holding the extension against the palm/trigger finger of the left hand. Hit the end of the extension hard enough to move the bushing. Once it starts to move it gets easier. Only done a couple. Only two of mine shot groups that looked like a bushing would help them.
  3. I've had one 9MM case just completely separate around the rim. Blue Dot under a 115 grain hollow point. Didn't even know that had happened (CZ85) till it wouldn't chamber the next round. Tried to cycle it a second time and then looked and saw the bottom of the case walls sticking out of the back of the chamber. Weak case? No damage to the pistol at all. Just dirty rounds, dirty breech face and dirty in/around the top of the frame. Had a 9MM case separate around the rim when trying to pull it out of the resizing die. Took some doing but finally got the case walls out of the die. Found one during visual inspection of the cases that was cracked partially around the base at the rim/groove. Never seen this kind of stuff in .45 acp or .40 S&W. Just 9MM and only in the last 3 or 4 years. If it's already weak, it can blow out at pressures that a piece of good brass would not. Here's one. System won't let me post the other pics.
  4. M1A4ME

    Cz 75b optic milling

    The plate does make the big wide sight look smoother/better on the slide. It provides an angled transition look vs. the square/chunky look on my Compact.
  5. M1A4ME

    Cz 75b optic milling

    CZ75 Compact 9MM (with FPB mechanism intact/working) milled for a direct mount of a DP Pro. Was my wife's carry gun before she decided it was just "too heavy." Uses the DP Pro back up rear sight. Looks funky as the big red dots are awfully wide on a CZ75 slide. But it works like a champ. This one was done at CGW. I don't know if they still do this kind of work or not.
  6. Supposed to be pretty old according to my dad: When you get to your house I hope your mother runs out from under the porch and bites you on the leg." Of course, at the age I was when I heard him say it I had to have him explain it to me.
  7. One of the guys on the CZ Forum suggested waxing mags to me a couple years ago. I carry all the time outside the house. My pistol, holster, mag pouch and mags get dirt, sweat, rain, sawdust, pollen, water/crud splash from high pressure washing, etc., etc., etc. on them on a regular basis. The pistols get field stripped cleaned/lubed and reloaded. Holsters/gear get wiped off/out and hung up to dry. The mags - used to unload them, wipe them off with the same oily cloth used to wipe down the pistol parts and every so often as I unloaded them I'd notice that gritty/grating sound that told me crud was building up inside the magazine. He suggested wax. I've used Nufinish mostly. Strip the mag of spring, base and follower. The strip all the old lube and crud off of and out of it (alcohol and cotton balls). Then two coats of wax like you'd wax your car/truck. The mags, load easier/smoother. As you unload them you don't notice the drag/catching/jumping of cartridges as the move upwards. The dirt/crud don't stick to the outside or inside like it did before waxing. So I can just take a dry paper towel and wipe the outside of the magazine down and it looks like I just wiped down an unwaxed blued magazine with that oily cloth. I'm slowly working my way through the pistol mags. to get them all waxed.
  8. Concealed carry for me, but almost had the same issue. I carried the back up mag. in a pants pocket. Seemed fine. One day I came home took the pistol out of the holster and the magazine out of my pocket and field stripped the pistol for cleaning/inspection/lubing. I don't remember, now, why I was thumbing the bullets out of the magazine. Anyway, after two or three rounds thumbed out there was no next round for my thumb to push. Looked down in the magazine and it had ammo it but not feeding up to the magazine lips. WTH?? Shook the magazine but didn't get the rounds to pop up. Got a pencil and pushed down on the top cartridge and heard a gritty/scraping noise. Pulled the pencil out and the ammo rose to the lips. Thumbed out a couple more and they stopped again. I worked them all out, pulled the magazine base plate, spring and follower and had all kinds of lint, dirt, etc. in the magazine. Cleaned it all out and put it back together and loaded it up. Then I ordered a couple IWB mag holders and never put mags. in my pocket again. Pockets can be pretty dirty depending on the work you do and the dirt your hands carry into your pockets reaching for keys, pocket knife, etc. Washing the pants gets some of the loose stuff that is small enough out of the pockets but not everything and the magazines accumulate it over time.
  9. Be sure to wear safety glasses or monogoggles when using a spray cleaner. Brake fluid in the eyes burns like hell. Still don't know how I made it from the garage to the shower in the house without falling over something.... Be sure to use a spray lube afterwards as many spray cleaners completely strip the oil from the metal surfaces and they can rust quickly in the wrong climate/conditions. Then apply your usual lube and wipe off the excess.
  10. Not saying a better trigger is vital for improved groups. I bought/installed the Apex trigger as step in trying to get the M&P 2.0 5" 9Mm to shoot like my CZs shoot. Didn't help. The trigger is awesome now. It still won't shoot like my P09 or my P01. The Apex barrel did help improve the groups, but still not to CZ standards. Took a chance on another M&P 9MM and group wise it's not much better than the 1.0 I bought 12 years ago (some better, but not enough). But, the trigger is head/shoulders "better" than the factory 2.0 trigger.
  11. Apex? Absolutely. I put an Apex trigger kit in my 2.0 5" FDE 9MM and it is awesome. Better than some of my hammer fired CZs for crispness and better than all of them for reset. Impressed me enough that when I ordered my 2.0 .45 I ordered the Apex trigger kit before I ever even got shipping confirmation on the .45. The Apex web site has a chart that shows what springs to use (whether all M&P, all Apex or a mix of both) to get a trigger pull weight in the range you're looking for. My 9MM started out at 3.0 lbs. and over use/time it's dropped to almost 2&3/4 lbs.
  12. Never had the TLR1 fail (batteries, yes, on the .357 SIG M&P) but I hate taking it off the rail to replace the batteries.
  13. Only time I've seen brass like the one with the ledge is when I was using a Lee carbide resizing die. Switched to a set of RCBS dies with a carbide sizing die and am much happier. The Lee die really undersized the brass. Real coke bottle look to the finished round after bullet seating/crimping. Tremendous amount of effort to resize the brass, too. Like resizing rifle brass but with 9MM.
  14. I mostly use Nu finish car wax. I've only used Never Dull once. Don't remember which mags. I used it on, so no good comparison. I didn't use never dull to make the mags. shiny, or smoother. I used the wax and the polish to: 1. protect the metal of the magazine from moisture/sweat 2. make the rounds load smoother and feed out easier 3. make the mags less likely to pick up/hold dust/dirt than when I use oil to protect the metal surfaces It works. Two years of sweating on my mags/pistol when carried IWB and getting water, dirt, sawdust, etc. on it when carried open had proven to me that the wax/polish helps protect the magazines. I even waxed the whole slide on the big XD Tactical. Yeah, it's stainless steel, but it still needs some protection/care.
  15. You change from factory/stock parts to higher performance aftermarket parts you've changed the geometry of how the parts work together to function properly. Not saying it's unsafe. I'm saying it was designed to work a certain way with the factory parts and you replaced those with parts from somewhere else. No surprise the parts don't work together like it did out of the box. The question is, does the safety still work properly as far as stopping the hammer from dropping when the safety is "ON" and the trigger is pulled? If the answer is yes, you're okay, if the answer is no, you've got a big problem. The aftermarket hammers make the trigger crisper and usually require less trigger distance/movement to release the hammer because the notch in the hammer the sear catches in is shallower than a factory hammer. Since the sear doesn't sit as deeply in the hammer notch it is no longer oriented the same as it was with the factory hammer. On the CZ75 models, there is a cam on the left side safety shaft that rotates under the forward "arm" of the sear to stop the sear from rotating to release the hammer. As long as your safety still stops the sear from rotating to release the hammer, you should be okay. For what it's worth, every CZ I've replaced the hammer in has done this. One other thing. It's not a good idea to move the safety to the SAFE position with the hammer down. Seems like I read (on the CZ Forum) that it can damage the sear/hammer if you try to pull the trigger with it like that. Shoots real nice, doesn't it. I really like my CZs. Found a pic. Red arrow points at that cam on the safety shaft that rotates under the arm on the sear. Green arrow points at the arm on the sear. Take the slide off your pistol, cock the hammer, move the safety from fire, to safe and back to see how they work together.
  16. Blue Dot is my powder for 9MM and .40 S&W hollow point loads. Compressed powder charge, you won't double load it. My loads are under the max charge, but still feel stout. I've got some Greed Dot, haven't used it, but I have seen loads for it in at least one reloading manual. I'll try it one of these days to use up that old shotgun powder. If you run across Herco, I've found that one to work well in .40 with lead bullets (or coated bullets).
  17. both mine have standard AR15 hammer springs in them and no issues with CCI SP or SPM primers. When I got my M&P 15 5.45X39 it came with an extra power hammer spring for the hard primers in the surplus ammo. So, someone out there makes extra power hammer springs in case you find you need one of those.
  18. Had that problem (finally) last year. Some of the cases I was loading were slightly longer than others. I'd set the (very small) amount of crimp up to remove the flare on the case mouth on a shorter case, I suppose. When a longer case went through the crimp die I'd get a small bulge very near the case mouth (vs. down at the top of the shoulder like a rifle case when over crimped). I hate the thought of having to trim a darn pistol case.
  19. S&W issues I've seen or experienced. 686's had to have the firing pin nose bushing replaced as the hole was too large. Especially with 125 grain .357 ammo would allow the primer cup metal to flow back into the hole and lock up/make it draggy popping loose. Back to S&W to have the bushings replaced. This was an early issue with lots of them. Could still happen now and then on the new guns. 65. Officer came in saying he could not pull the trigger on his revolver to fire it. S&W didn't use different grades of SS in their SS pistols on parts that rubbed/rotated against the other parts. This one had a badly galled crane/cylinder. Keep them properly lubed and clean. 586. Would begin to drag after about a box of ammo. Cylinder to barrel gap was 0.015". Powder residue build up on the front of the cylinder would cause it to drag on the barrel/forcing cone. If I remember correctly, the gap should be 0.004 to 0.006". Good luck with it. The 586/686 revolvers are nice.
  20. Saw this thread yesterday morning, went to PD and Everglades and saw they had 180 grain FMJ, but no hollow points. When you see what you want, grab it quick, it won't last long.
  21. Forgot that one, watch it every time it's on.
  22. Sorry, I like the old movies made about comic book/news paper comics "heroes". Stuff like The Shadow, The Phantom, etc. I just like watching those.
  23. OP, you just reminded me I've got a jug of IMR4831?? in the shed. Since my AR .308 has an adjustable gas block on it I need to drag that out and do some reloading with that powder to start using it up (no good for the M1A or M1 Garand). OP, I have used W760 in my M1A (not a lot and years ago, but no damage to it from the few sets of test ammo I loaded with it. Slower powder will mean higher gas port pressures, but the ARs might be alright with that. An adjustable gas block or heavier buffer would help.
  24. I installed a CZC trigger in one of mine. On their website they recommended also installing their extra power sear spring. That helps insure the sear has more force pushing it upwards faster/harder (?) to catch that shallow full cock notch on the hammer. The shallower that notch (stock vs. aftermarket) the lighter/crisper that trigger pull can be. Seems like I've also seen/read where some people say going to a lower powered hammer spring doesn't do much for SA trigger pull. Lower the DA trigger pull? Sure. Just not the SA trigger pull. They've said you can actually get a better feeling trigger with the heavier hammer spring vs. the lighter spring (not to mention increased reliability with harder primers.) Not sure a S2 Orange comes with a good CZC hammer? Or does it? I know my Tactical Sport has a 1.7 lb. SA trigger pull and it does not have the factory hammer in the frame.
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