M1A4ME

Latest CZ. CZ75B in .40 S&W. I installed the spur hammer (last one I had) and the CZ85 right side slide lock/release lever (I'm a CZ85 fan).

If you search the internet vendors/dealers you'll see them around for a few years, most likely. I still see P07 DUTY pistols at gun shows now and then and think how long it's been since they stopped making those. And, as stated earlier, it's not hard or expensive to convert a CZ75B to SAO. Even a Compact can be converted - as long as it's the safety model, not the decocker model. Having said that, a race hammer from CGW (CZ Custom is probably just as good but I've never bought one from them) along with their (CGW) adjustable sear will make for an amazing single action trigger pull even if you leave the pistol SA/DA capable.

Never used lube with carbide dies. It's why paid extra for carbide sizing dies, so I didn't have to mess with lubing them. I always lube rifle cases. Use RCBS or Hornaday lube (the gooey/sticky stuff in the small bottles.) Tried the Lee resizing lube and that's some messy stuff, but it works. I had a set of Lee 9MM carbide dies that was like resizing rifle cases. Wear you out after awhile. I considered lubing for those but just bought a set of RCBS 9MM dies with a carbide resizing die and that solved that problem. "Normal" now, as compared to the other revolver and pistol cartridges I reload.

BTDT. I try to do a few dry fires when I do take it to the range to help me "realize" it's not a standard CZ75.

Have you tried soft scrub? I used to use that to take the red clay stains off the white gas tank/fenders on my Honda 350 X after a day of muddy riding. The tank was white paint and the fenders some kind of white plastic. Made that big Honda shine like a new bike. While I've not messed with mildew stains I've used a polish called Never Dull (in a silver metal can at the car parts places) to remove rust stains from glass as well as brake dust stains from painted wheels on the Z28. The only thing I can say about the muriatic acid is I've used it to clean off aluminum. Do not even get close enough to get a whiff of it. It will choke you in a heart beat and it takes a couple/three attempts to get what feels like breathable air back in your lungs. BTDT and I had the rag at arms length, but the breeze blew the wrong way, or something....I won't forget it though.

When I got my tactical sport I had to shorten up my loads, just to get them to chamber. All those hollow points and lead bullet loads that worked so well in the P07 and P09 were too long for the TS. The questions have been asked (plunk test results) and recommendations made (shorter overall length. Your bullet profile may be allowing you to load out a little longer than some other bullets. But you have to take into account what will load into and feed out of the magazine, what will function properly in your pistol and what shoots good groups - or will extract/eject from the chamber with the bullet still in the brass. I got an XD 5" Tactical in .45 acp awhile back. Pulled the barrel, started loading some .45 acp 230 grain LRN bullets and did the plunk test. Got a measurement, adjusted the seating die and loaded a couple boxes for the next range trip. Got to the range, started loading the first magazine and I could get about 4 rounds in and the 5th would get real tough. Took a couple minutes to figure out the were bullet nose dragging on the front of the magazine. Short enough to plunk, too long to load into the magazine. First time I've run into that with a pistol. They are not all identical, even if the same model and caliber.

I've only converted one DA/SA CZ to SAO. I installed (from Cajun Gun Works) the adjustable sear, a race hammer, the reduced power trigger return spring and firing pin block spring. I did some polishing of the sides and humps of the trigger bar. I left the stock firing pin, firing pin return spring, hammer spring and recoil spring in place. I installed (from CZ USA, because it was OOS at both CGW and CZ Custom) a straight trigger. I don't care for the one with the little forward curl/bend at the bottom. SA trigger pull was a steady 3 lbs. with a nice repeatable "feel" to it. I left the firing pin block mechanism operational. A 3 lb. trigger that is nice and crisp isn't that hard with the right trigger, sear, trigger return spring and firing pin block spring. The hammer spring has little to do with SA trigger pull. The trigger pull could be made even lighter by more polishing, removal of the firing pin block/spring, lifting arm and lifting arm spring and requires a spacer to be installed in place of the lifting arm - or a different sear. I like the CGW adjustable sear because it makes it quick, easy and positive to adjust for the safety with the new hammer (that has shallower hooks for the sear). I installed a new hammer in a SA/DA CZ early on my CZ'ness and you would not believe how many times I had that left side safety lever out to remove some metal from the cam and clean it up and reinstall it and test it and then remove and repeat, over and over and over and over. The next time I went with the CGW adjustable sear and it makes it pretty much painless. The comment about the hammer spring not having much effect on the SA trigger pull is backed up by two SA/DA CZ's I installed new hammers on. I left the factory springs on the hammer strut, recoil spring guide rod and firing pin return spring. On the latest one the SA trigger pull dropped from 5 lbs. to a nice crisp 3 lbs. The DA trigger pull was 10 lbs. before and still 10 lbs. after.

I never even take that spring/pin out unless I'm modifying the frame to install a CZ85 set of slide release levers.

I bought a .40 S&W Tactical Sport here a year or so back. Same broken barrel thing. The owner gave me a good deal and all I had to do was order a barrel and fit it and yes, same spots needed some stoning (I always stone/oil when removing metal because it's slow and helps keep me from messing up). Not tough to do.

I worked at a unionized plant for a few years. Being in management I had to be more careful when dealing with someone who was having problems (meaning I couldn't just step in, help, give advice, show them how to do things better, etc.) One day I walked by a machine and the operator was really struggling. I stopped to watch him try, over and over, to get through a part of the start up for his machine. Did I mention he was really struggling? The lady running the machine next to his was a very nice, polite, and good operator. I walked over to her and asked her if she'd seen the guy having a hard time. She said she did. Then I asked why no one was helping him get his machine running. She looked at me and said, "Jim, some people can't be helped." I nodded and replied, "Oh, one of those guys, huh?" She sort of smiled and said, "Yeah, one of those guys." She went back to working around her machine and I headed to the supervisor's office to let him know he needed to get that guy some help. Supervisor's had authority/responsibility us lowly engineers did not. And the OP's comments reminds me of a cousin. No matter what he's doing wrong, when you try to help him, what you hear is, "I know cousin, but...…" and he keeps on doing it his way.

No issues from either of mine. Change them once a year. Only one gets carried much. The other one mostly sits. I, too, use energizer battieries.

So, "short" headspace? That's what it sounds like. Don't they check that at the factory as part of the QC testing done when a new fire arm is assembled? Maybe headspace isn't the right term. But I would think they would test/check/confirm the bolt/chamber dimensions are correct after assembly. I guess not.

A few years ago I used up 4,000 CCI primers that I'd put up in my attic 25 years earlier. Every one went bang. Temps in the attic range from 110/115F in the summer to below freezing in the winter and humidity can be pretty bad here in central VA. Every one went bang. Last year I did a short/small test. I ran across some .40 S&W brass I failed to clean the crushed walnut shell media out of the primer flash holes before priming. I started depriming them and then decided to do the test. Left 25 of them with the dirty/brown media in the flash hole (usually it's just one piece that needs to be pushed out). Loaded up 50 rounds with Herco and 140 grain Missouri Bullet Co. bullets and headed to the range. All 50 went bang and groups, at 10 or 12 yds., were the same. I will not leave media in the holes on purpose, but I'm not afraid every one will be a dud either. Never had bad powder either. Used up several partial cans of powder that had been in the same cabinet with the previously mentioned primers. Opened them and used some of each 30 plus years ago, got them down and used all but the IMR4350 and 4320 up about 8 or 10 years ago. All good. I'm sure I could damage primers and powders on purpose, if I tried, but so far I've not seen it. You need to inspect the brass before/after resizing, and after cleaning and before priming. If you prime brass to load later store it in a sealed container. It's amazing where some bugs will lay eggs/store food for larvae.

I bought one. Tried it. Put it back in the box as an emergency back up in case the RCBS powder measure breaks some day. For powders that measure consistently (mostly ball powders) the RCBS uniflow works fine. For the few stick powders I'm still using and for the flake powders in the pistols that approach max. charges I use a Hornady electronic powder measure/scale. It's slower than the uniflow but it's "on target" all the time. I'm trying to get away from the IMR rifle powders. BLC2 is spoiling me as compared to IMR4198. I used to work with a guy who claimed his Dillon powder measure was consistent with IMR4198. He thanked me for telling him how well my AR's did with 4198 and 55 grain FMJ bullets (at that time I was using the measure to drop a charge under target and trickling up to the target weight with the uniflow - Lyman 55B didn't do any better). He told me his Dillon was dead on every time and he was getting better groups with 4198. I have not tried a Dillon powder measure, yet. Like I said, just using more BLC2 and some H335 (another consistent feeding powder.)

Bullets are very important, in my experience. My CZ's do very well (every one of them whether compacts or full sized) with 115 grain bullets. So far I've tried 147 grain hollow points and 147 grain coated bullets with (will list them so I don't forget any) Bullseye, Unique, Titegroup, AA#5, Blue Dot and Red Dot (think that's all of them but there could be one or two more) and not found any load that shoots as well as the 115 grain PD or Zero hollow points. I've got some 124 grain hollow points but haven't tried them yet. I use Tula, CCI or Federal primers. I've used CCI magnum primers a few times, but only on the Blue Dot 115 grain hollow point loads (compressed load, figured I'd try them, no changes in groups or function). I've got boxes of 147's from the M&P days that I need to find a load for, so I'll keep working on it. As people ahead of me said, the gun will tell you what bullets it "likes." While not reloads, my CZ's also shoot the Federal 115 grain FMJ ammo from Walmart (I say Walmart because that's where I buy them) very well, too. If I'm running low on the 115 grain hollow points and heading to the range I'll stop at Walmart and buy a couple 100 round boxes of that Federal ammo.

Works fine. Primary Machine does it that way and either (both??) CZ Custom or Cajun Gun Works was doing it that way. I thought it looked funny, since I'd only seen Glocks up to that point and they had the rear sight behind the RMR. I had two of my CZ's done by Primary Machine (slide milled for RMR and rear sight, front and rear sights installed and slide cerakoted) and they work great. No problem seeing the rear sight/front sight. Hey, it's the RMR that partially blocks your view of the sights/sight alignment/target. Whether the rear sight is in front of the RMR or behind the RMR the RMR "covers" the same amount of it. The important part is the top where you see the front sight and align them to shoot.

The only hollow points I've used are 115 grain. Either PD or Zero. Same ammo I shoot in my CZ pistols. Can't give you the OAL off the top of my head but both my 9MM ARs run them with no issues. One is a dedicated 9MM lower for Colt style mags. from Spikes Tactical. The other is an AR15 lower with a mag. well insert for Colt style magazines. The both work will with Federal 115 grain FMJ. I have not tried 124 or 147 grain hollow points or 147 grain LTCs in either of them. Haven't gotten serious about 147's because I've not yet found a load my CZ pistols will shoot good groups with.

My M&P 9MM FS is a first gen. I had trigger issues (took two fingers and pulling it towards the right side to get it to release the striker). Brand new, should have sent it back, didn't - ordered an APEX CAEK kit and installed it and fell in love with the trigger (as compared to the original even when it was working). A couple years later I got into failure to fire issues. Ended up being timing and sear flutter (small dent on the primer when the striker was hitting the striker block after the trigger was pulled=timing) or no dent in the primer (sear flutter let the striker go forward with the slide when it chambered the next round). What I'm saying is, even when the striker wasn't caught by the sear it never went off. I was getting that for 3 to 4 rounds from every magazine. About 20 to 25 percent of the time I had a failure to fire. My finger is on the trigger when the slide goes forward to pick up the next round and chamber it (I'll bet every one else still has the trigger back after firing, too). I'd think, based on the design and my experiences that he'd have had to let up on the trigger (if his finger was holding it back) when he chambered the round to get it to reset, and then pulled it again to make if fire. Just a guess, but I don't think I read about people having this issue with the Gen 1 M&P's. Just terrible lousy triggers, poor accuracy, reliability issues, etc.

I wipe/brush out every time (don't shoot it that much/that often) and re-lube. If it were as nasty as some of my .223's have been then I'd just separate the upper from the lower, hold the lower by the stock and spray it out with carb cleaner. Just be sure to wear safety glasses/goggles - you don't what that stuff in your eyes. Did it once, never want to do that again. After it dries I spray some lube in (gotta get some oil/lube back on the bare metal after carb spray cleaning) and the lube the springs/trigger/hammer pin, safety, take down pins, magazine release and bolt hold open parts with Mobil 1 and it's good to go till the next time.

I shoot mine first. I've had a couple that I didn't feel would benefit from the bushing. I've also had a couple that didn't shoot good groups from the box and adding the bushing helped them. Some pistols just shoot better than others. Combination of parts thing.

Doggone it. I parked my M&P's 6 years ago over reliability and accuracy issues and wen to CZ's. But watching that video made me think about buying an aftermarket barrel for the 9MM to see if I can get it to shoot better.

DI RMR because is works 24/7 with no chance of electrical issues and no need to remove it and resight it for battery changes.

One of the issues I had with my M&P 9MM (full sized model) was light strikes. That one was a timing issue. The striker block was not being lifted quite high enough to clear the striker on every shot. When it didn't I'd hear a funny sounding click/rattle noise instead of a bang and the primer would have a slight/light dent in it. There are threads here and there about how to fix that. I don't want to give advice as I'm not a gun smith or M&P expert. I just had a similar issue. Mine had an APEX CAEK kit in it, just for info.

1911 don't break parts they don't have/need. The new stuff has a reputation for damaging/breaking the firing pin retaining pins (CZ's, XD/XDM's, etc.) My Browning BDM broke the firing pin the first weekend I had while I was dry firing. Didn't even get it to the range first. My 1917 made Colt 1911 has had the same firing pin in it since at least 1978 when I bought it, for all I know, it might be the original firing pin. That's what I'm talking about.

How many rounds are you reloading in one session? I've had my uniflow (with some powders) start off where I set it (adjusting, weighing, adjusting, weighing - till I get it right) and then part of the way through the hopper the charge weight will increase. Doesn't do it will all powders, in fact, it's more apt to do it with flake/IMR powders. It seems to need some use to settle the powder down uniformly in the hopper. I never let the hopper go below the halfway mark. Adding powder back to the hopper then gives the "fresh" powder time to settle/compact by the time it gets to the rotor. I learned this years ago and was already in the habit of it when I started using H335 and BLC2, so I can't say how the uniflow would have done with them if I let the hopper run almost empty before topping it off.