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M1A4ME

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About M1A4ME

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    James Cale

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  1. So, "short" headspace? That's what it sounds like. Don't they check that at the factory as part of the QC testing done when a new fire arm is assembled? Maybe headspace isn't the right term. But I would think they would test/check/confirm the bolt/chamber dimensions are correct after assembly. I guess not.
  2. M1A4ME

    Squibs

    A few years ago I used up 4,000 CCI primers that I'd put up in my attic 25 years earlier. Every one went bang. Temps in the attic range from 110/115F in the summer to below freezing in the winter and humidity can be pretty bad here in central VA. Every one went bang. Last year I did a short/small test. I ran across some .40 S&W brass I failed to clean the crushed walnut shell media out of the primer flash holes before priming. I started depriming them and then decided to do the test. Left 25 of them with the dirty/brown media in the flash hole (usually it's just one piece that needs to be pushed out). Loaded up 50 rounds with Herco and 140 grain Missouri Bullet Co. bullets and headed to the range. All 50 went bang and groups, at 10 or 12 yds., were the same. I will not leave media in the holes on purpose, but I'm not afraid every one will be a dud either. Never had bad powder either. Used up several partial cans of powder that had been in the same cabinet with the previously mentioned primers. Opened them and used some of each 30 plus years ago, got them down and used all but the IMR4350 and 4320 up about 8 or 10 years ago. All good. I'm sure I could damage primers and powders on purpose, if I tried, but so far I've not seen it. You need to inspect the brass before/after resizing, and after cleaning and before priming. If you prime brass to load later store it in a sealed container. It's amazing where some bugs will lay eggs/store food for larvae.
  3. I bought one. Tried it. Put it back in the box as an emergency back up in case the RCBS powder measure breaks some day. For powders that measure consistently (mostly ball powders) the RCBS uniflow works fine. For the few stick powders I'm still using and for the flake powders in the pistols that approach max. charges I use a Hornady electronic powder measure/scale. It's slower than the uniflow but it's "on target" all the time. I'm trying to get away from the IMR rifle powders. BLC2 is spoiling me as compared to IMR4198. I used to work with a guy who claimed his Dillon powder measure was consistent with IMR4198. He thanked me for telling him how well my AR's did with 4198 and 55 grain FMJ bullets (at that time I was using the measure to drop a charge under target and trickling up to the target weight with the uniflow - Lyman 55B didn't do any better). He told me his Dillon was dead on every time and he was getting better groups with 4198. I have not tried a Dillon powder measure, yet. Like I said, just using more BLC2 and some H335 (another consistent feeding powder.)
  4. Bullets are very important, in my experience. My CZ's do very well (every one of them whether compacts or full sized) with 115 grain bullets. So far I've tried 147 grain hollow points and 147 grain coated bullets with (will list them so I don't forget any) Bullseye, Unique, Titegroup, AA#5, Blue Dot and Red Dot (think that's all of them but there could be one or two more) and not found any load that shoots as well as the 115 grain PD or Zero hollow points. I've got some 124 grain hollow points but haven't tried them yet. I use Tula, CCI or Federal primers. I've used CCI magnum primers a few times, but only on the Blue Dot 115 grain hollow point loads (compressed load, figured I'd try them, no changes in groups or function). I've got boxes of 147's from the M&P days that I need to find a load for, so I'll keep working on it. As people ahead of me said, the gun will tell you what bullets it "likes." While not reloads, my CZ's also shoot the Federal 115 grain FMJ ammo from Walmart (I say Walmart because that's where I buy them) very well, too. If I'm running low on the 115 grain hollow points and heading to the range I'll stop at Walmart and buy a couple 100 round boxes of that Federal ammo.
  5. Works fine. Primary Machine does it that way and either (both??) CZ Custom or Cajun Gun Works was doing it that way. I thought it looked funny, since I'd only seen Glocks up to that point and they had the rear sight behind the RMR. I had two of my CZ's done by Primary Machine (slide milled for RMR and rear sight, front and rear sights installed and slide cerakoted) and they work great. No problem seeing the rear sight/front sight. Hey, it's the RMR that partially blocks your view of the sights/sight alignment/target. Whether the rear sight is in front of the RMR or behind the RMR the RMR "covers" the same amount of it. The important part is the top where you see the front sight and align them to shoot.
  6. The only hollow points I've used are 115 grain. Either PD or Zero. Same ammo I shoot in my CZ pistols. Can't give you the OAL off the top of my head but both my 9MM ARs run them with no issues. One is a dedicated 9MM lower for Colt style mags. from Spikes Tactical. The other is an AR15 lower with a mag. well insert for Colt style magazines. The both work will with Federal 115 grain FMJ. I have not tried 124 or 147 grain hollow points or 147 grain LTCs in either of them. Haven't gotten serious about 147's because I've not yet found a load my CZ pistols will shoot good groups with.
  7. My M&P 9MM FS is a first gen. I had trigger issues (took two fingers and pulling it towards the right side to get it to release the striker). Brand new, should have sent it back, didn't - ordered an APEX CAEK kit and installed it and fell in love with the trigger (as compared to the original even when it was working). A couple years later I got into failure to fire issues. Ended up being timing and sear flutter (small dent on the primer when the striker was hitting the striker block after the trigger was pulled=timing) or no dent in the primer (sear flutter let the striker go forward with the slide when it chambered the next round). What I'm saying is, even when the striker wasn't caught by the sear it never went off. I was getting that for 3 to 4 rounds from every magazine. About 20 to 25 percent of the time I had a failure to fire. My finger is on the trigger when the slide goes forward to pick up the next round and chamber it (I'll bet every one else still has the trigger back after firing, too). I'd think, based on the design and my experiences that he'd have had to let up on the trigger (if his finger was holding it back) when he chambered the round to get it to reset, and then pulled it again to make if fire. Just a guess, but I don't think I read about people having this issue with the Gen 1 M&P's. Just terrible lousy triggers, poor accuracy, reliability issues, etc.
  8. I wipe/brush out every time (don't shoot it that much/that often) and re-lube. If it were as nasty as some of my .223's have been then I'd just separate the upper from the lower, hold the lower by the stock and spray it out with carb cleaner. Just be sure to wear safety glasses/goggles - you don't what that stuff in your eyes. Did it once, never want to do that again. After it dries I spray some lube in (gotta get some oil/lube back on the bare metal after carb spray cleaning) and the lube the springs/trigger/hammer pin, safety, take down pins, magazine release and bolt hold open parts with Mobil 1 and it's good to go till the next time.
  9. I shoot mine first. I've had a couple that I didn't feel would benefit from the bushing. I've also had a couple that didn't shoot good groups from the box and adding the bushing helped them. Some pistols just shoot better than others. Combination of parts thing.
  10. Doggone it. I parked my M&P's 6 years ago over reliability and accuracy issues and wen to CZ's. But watching that video made me think about buying an aftermarket barrel for the 9MM to see if I can get it to shoot better.
  11. DI RMR because is works 24/7 with no chance of electrical issues and no need to remove it and resight it for battery changes.
  12. One of the issues I had with my M&P 9MM (full sized model) was light strikes. That one was a timing issue. The striker block was not being lifted quite high enough to clear the striker on every shot. When it didn't I'd hear a funny sounding click/rattle noise instead of a bang and the primer would have a slight/light dent in it. There are threads here and there about how to fix that. I don't want to give advice as I'm not a gun smith or M&P expert. I just had a similar issue. Mine had an APEX CAEK kit in it, just for info.
  13. 1911 don't break parts they don't have/need. The new stuff has a reputation for damaging/breaking the firing pin retaining pins (CZ's, XD/XDM's, etc.) My Browning BDM broke the firing pin the first weekend I had while I was dry firing. Didn't even get it to the range first. My 1917 made Colt 1911 has had the same firing pin in it since at least 1978 when I bought it, for all I know, it might be the original firing pin. That's what I'm talking about.
  14. How many rounds are you reloading in one session? I've had my uniflow (with some powders) start off where I set it (adjusting, weighing, adjusting, weighing - till I get it right) and then part of the way through the hopper the charge weight will increase. Doesn't do it will all powders, in fact, it's more apt to do it with flake/IMR powders. It seems to need some use to settle the powder down uniformly in the hopper. I never let the hopper go below the halfway mark. Adding powder back to the hopper then gives the "fresh" powder time to settle/compact by the time it gets to the rotor. I learned this years ago and was already in the habit of it when I started using H335 and BLC2, so I can't say how the uniflow would have done with them if I let the hopper run almost empty before topping it off.
  15. 1. My P01's firing pin block is also slightly "up" when the side is off the frame. So, probably normal (never really paid much attention to it.) The firing pin return spring is a nice stout spring - like all the CZ springs. They make them for "duty" use. Military, police, etc. You can buy target/competition CZ's but yours and mine were not built for that. You can modify it/have it modified for target/competition use (yeah, you can actually make it shoot better than it currently does-ain't that wild.) Now you know why my glock/xdm/m&p/browning pistols are in the safe these days). 2. When the slide contacts those raised humps on the trigger bar you get a combination of friction and working against the trigger bar spring to push the trigger bar down, that's normal. Once it gets over those humps and the slide is in place you'll have to move the slide backwards to line up the take down marks and it has to move the hammer back to half cock, so you're also fighting the hammer spring plus friction of moving the parts. Go ahead and move the hammer back to the half cock position with your thumb, then line up the take down marks and see how it feels. Keep it clean. Keep it lubed. Most CZ folks say after you shoot it about 500 rounds you'll be able to tell how much it smooths itself out.
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