Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

M1A4ME

Classifieds
  • Content Count

    293
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About M1A4ME

  • Rank
    Sees Sights

Profile Information

  • Real Name
    James Cale

Recent Profile Visitors

752 profile views
  1. Mine is pretty old (mid 1930's). It was graded "poor" by the big gun store I bought it from. Pretty "brown" all over when I bought it. Some 0000 steel wool and 3n1 oil showed it was still pretty blue with only one spot of pitting (on the receiver, none anywhere else). The checkering was pretty much worn off the stock/forend so I put a Ramline synthetic set on it. The I added the extended magazine tube/spring/cap to bring the total to 10 rounds. It worked when I bought it but I went ahead and completely disassembled it and cleaned out 80 years of old oil/dirt and replaced the springs and a couple of the smaller screws someone had butchered up in the past. Also put new friction rings on it. I was going to get the barrel shortened and get rid of the polychoke but the gunsmith told me that would be a mistake. He said it appeared the polychoke was original since there were no stars on the barrel to denote the barrel choke (I had to look that one up on the internet.)
  2. M1A4ME

    Help for Dry Fire Safety

    With the old guns I just made sure they were empty and practiced. With these new fangled modern wonders that damage roll pins I've gone ahead and bought those special dry fire rounds so I don't have to worry about damaging the firing pin/striker retaining pins.
  3. M1A4ME

    Tumbling question..

    At the local pet stores I've bought from they call the crushed walnut shells "lizard bedding".
  4. I would think the best test for changes to the powder would be a combination of velocity/accuracy tests. It's not just size/shape with powder as some have burn inhibitors on the surface of the kernels/flakes/balls.
  5. If I've used resizing lube I run the brass through the vibratory cleaner (crushed walnut shells) right after resizing/belling. Thirty minutes does it. I bought an appliance timer at Lowes. Had two outlets on it. I set it for 30 minutes (an hour if I'm to lazy to play with it till I get it to 30 minutes). Then I run it through a second vibratory cleaner (crushed walnut shells again) with a dribble of nufinish car wax poured on the media about every three batches. Brass is shinier than without the wax and stays shiny longer. If I have some really nasty looking brass I segregate the pieces out till I get enough for a batch to put in the wet tumbler with the pins/water/lemishine and run that for 4 to 6 hours. I then run that damp/wet brass through the first (the one used to clean dirty brass) vibratory cleaner to dry the brass out. Then it gets run through the vibratory cleaner with wax before reloading it.
  6. M1A4ME

    Post your Dogs!

    Stud framed, T11 siding, plywood interior floors/ceiling/walls with 3" insulation top/bottom/sides. Big overhangs front/back for more shade in the summer and to help keep the rain off them and their porch. These three are our 5th, 6th and 7th dogs since 1995. I did have to screw the rugs down on the patio/porches and inside as the bigger black dog likes to grab a run, drag it out into the dirt/grass and sleep under the stars. No kidding. I can put new rugs in the houses and in a day or two all of them will be outside getting rained on. Stainless steel round head wood screws and big stainless washers keep the rugs where I put them.
  7. M1A4ME

    Post your Dogs!

    Same three guys hanging on a cold rainy day just a few days after all that snow melted. The two black dogs are on the rugs on the covered front porch. The new kid is sleeping out in the rain on a 45 F day. Sound asleep in the cold rain. They've got three dog houses with rugs on the floors and two covered porches with rugs and he's sleeping in the cold rain to be next to his buddies, I guess. Oh, that patio the big guy is on is 6 ft. wide by 3 ft. deep. He's 10 months old.
  8. M1A4ME

    Post your Dogs!

    My three. The old/smart guy lying on the carpeted patio in front of the covered/carpeted porch on the big dog house. The two younger/larger guys lying out in the snow together.
  9. Have you replaced the striker in the Glock? Seems I read, somewhere, a few weeks back about the tips on some glock strikers wearing early/short life. I don't want to get into the MIM arguments, and maybe part of the reason for the discussion was someone selling tool steel strikers for Glocks and some other handguns. Then there's the striker spring replacement, etc. If you're primers are seated as they should be I'd try new springs first, then a new striker. I've put extended firing pins in some of my CZ's (from CGW) but on others I left the stock firing pins installed. Haven't had to trouble shoot a like strike issue in anything but my S&W M&Ps. That was a combination of light strikes/no strikes and was finally identified as sear flutter (no strike) and timing (light strike) when the striker block wasn't quite out of the way when the sear released the striker. I don't know if Glocks can have timing issues or not (sear releasing striker before the striker block is fully raised would be a timing issue.)
  10. M1A4ME

    need help with CZ mag feed lips

    I keep reading/hearing that Mecgar makes the CZ magazines. They stamp CZ on them and CZ adds $12 or $14 or more to the price and sells them. I've never had an issue, so far, with the CZ or Mecgar magazines losing control of rounds at the top. I have read about people having issues with the top round being dragged forward by the slide. The advice I've seen about that is to polish the center section of the slide that pushes the top bullet into the chamber so it slides over that next bullet without dragging it forward. Reduced friction and all. Can't say it works, as I've never had to do it, but other people advise it. Good luck. Oh, the reason people ask about it seems to be that when they don't empty the magazine, that top round, having been pulled forward, hangs up the nose of the bullet on the feed ramp and makes it difficult to remove the partially loaded magazine - or keeps it from falling out when the magazine release is pushed.
  11. M1A4ME

    Factory SP-01 Bushing life

    I shoot mine first. I don't think some need a bushing. I've got a couple that I ordered/installed CGW bushings in. The groups "cried out" for help and I'm sure on the Compact it helped a lot, looking at the groups from the first range trip after the install. As to wear? Like the thread on the CZ Forum about what causes dirty barrels/increases barrel fouling, there's factors to barrel wear. Some people feel guns run better with little to no lube. I've read some people claim they run their "dry" because that's the way it's supposed to be. Cleaning frequency? How much does a bunch of crud build up increase wear on the metal parts? How fast they shoot it/how hot it gets? Then the stuff you can't control like how the bushing and barrel fit together from the factory. Some small difference in clearance/angle/contact surface amounts might affect things like wear, too.
  12. M1A4ME

    Red Dot placement for an AR

    I don't game/play/compete, but I like my red dot far enough in front of the rear sight that I can flip the rear sight and use it if needed. I really don't care much for red dots as I always shoot better groups with a scope, but I still have some on a few of the AR15's. I have one, an AR pistol in .223 with a DP Pro mounted out on the free float rail. It's way out there with a pistol, right. So I thought I'd mount it out on the rail and see how it worked. Works great so far. DP Pro with the big ugly triangle. The triangle appears "smaller" out there but is still easily visible/usable.
  13. M1A4ME

    Jack Ryan-Prime!

    Same guy was in the movie about Benghazi. He has the right "feel" for someone who thinks he's a quiet, easy going, analyst type but is able to rise to the occasion when things go south. As the female French cop told him, "You keep saying you are not a wolf, but I think you are a wolf trying to be a sheep." Or something to that effect.
  14. M1A4ME

    P-01 Omega vs P-07

    The Omega P01's are good pistols. I have a couple. One was my EDC for several months last summer/fall. No mechanical/accuracy issues with it, just that the weather changed and I'm carry open around my house/garage/property till warm weather comes back next year. If the one you're looking at has had the CGW work done then it's a pretty darned good pistol. I actually really like the way the P01 feels in my hand. My first was the Urban Gray model. Every time I picked it up I immediately feel that difference in the grip vs. my other CZ's. I figured it must be those vertical grooves in the front and back of the grip frame. Every time. It was odd that that pistol felt so good in my hand. Not just different, but good. That's part of the reason I bought the black P01 Omega. Feels just as good. I have a P07, too. It is my EDC when I'm out in the car/truck running around getting shopping done, gassing up cars, grocery store, eating out, etc. It has an RMR/back up sights on it and is a really good pistol, too. If you can get a P01 with all the CGW work already done on it for a similar price to a new P07, you'll be ahead as the money, effort and parts are already in the P01. And, as you mentioned, magazines are much cheaper for the P01.
  15. M1A4ME

    ASC colt style mags loose bullet?

    I'll have to keep an eye on mine. I'd assumed they were more rust resistant than the blued metalforms I also use. I wipe both types/brands down with the same oily cloth I wipe the surfaces of guns down with, but figured the ASCs were still not as likely to rust.
×