Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About M1A4ME

  • Rank
    Sees Sights Lift

Profile Information

  • Real Name
    James Cale

Recent Profile Visitors

1,132 profile views
  1. That is the one recommended, over and over, on the CZ Forum. Must work pretty well.
  2. One thing to pay attention to there is keeping the spring arms aligned properly as you tighten the screw down. It will twist clockwise (just as the screw is turned) and be out of alignment if you don't insure it stays properly aligned. If not the spring arms may keep coming out of the grooves on the bottom of the trigger bar and affect trigger pull and function. I did a conversion to SA on one of those steel framed P01 looking CZ75 Compacts (looked like a P01 but stamped CZ75 Compact on the slide). I had a reset issue (upper front part of the SA straight trigger making contact with frame and keeping it from letting the trigger bar go far enough forward to allow the firing pin block lifting arm to reset) and took the pistol apart again. At the time I noticed the trigger bar lifting spring wasn't "straight." Not knowing it was supposed to have one arm lower than the other I "adjusted" the spring arms to be level. The trigger pull went from 2&3/4 lbs. to just over 3 lbs. Little extra pressure pushing the trigger bar up against the bottom of the slide? I never took it apart again just to adjust the spring back to factory configuration. It was a very crisp trigger pull that actually felt lighter than just over 3 lbs. anyway, so I was still pretty happy with it.
  3. Change powder. TAC is a ball powder that meters consistently and is good for .223. Same for BLC2. A couple years back my nephew and I built a bull barrel .223 AR15 for him. Nice 1 turn in 7" barrel/bolt/trigger and scope, with a free float tube and bipod, A2 fixed stock, etc., etc., etc. He bought a bunch of factory ammo (different brands/bullet weights) to see what it shot good groups with. We sighted it in at 25 yds. then walked over to the 100 yd. range to get his BDC scope set up at 100 yds. He shot several groups with the factory ammo. I handed him 5 rounds of the stuff I shoot all the time (55 grain Hornaday FMJBT, CCI primers, mixed brass, BLC2 powder). When we were done and were putting out rifles in the cases, picking up brass, etc. I asked him what his new rifle shot it's best groups with. His reply was, "That ammo you gave me." His store bought ammo was Federal, Remington, Winchester with soft point 55 grain and up bullets. The best groups were from the cheap Hornady reloads. Sometimes you just have to experiment with powder brands and charge weights to see what your rifle "likes."
  4. M1A4ME

    CZ 75 P-01 optic cut

    Haven't had a P01 done. Did get a CZ75 Compact done for a DP Pro. Done by Primary Machine a couple years ago. The big/full size red dots look really awkward on a CZ75 Slide. I'm looking to get one of the new holosuns (the small ones) and have it put on my P01 Omega in the next few months. Should be a much better fit.
  5. I hear the word on USPS, too. Ordered a laser (green/contact operated) for a 9MM Shield for my wife. Left Fox Valley, IL on Jul 16 Got to Aurora, IL on Jul 17 Got to Chicago, IL on Jul 17 Got to Richmond, VA on Jul 19 Then tracking showed it going back to Chicago, IL on Jul 19 Was scheduled for a Jul 21 delivery to me. I was looking forward to it and getting to the range with my wife today or tomorrow. On Jul 21 it was back in Elk Grove, IL I have no idea what happened or why. It does show, now, that it's on the way but will be delivered late. No kidding. I have given up on the UPS package. Will try to figure out if I can get it replaced but with UPS swearing they delivered it (somewhere) that may not happen.
  6. Got an e-mail that UPS would deliver a package on Friday sometime before 8 PM. I'm retired. I'm home all day, most days, so I stuck around Friday. It starts raining buckets around 330 PM and rains for over an hour. I get an e-mail at about 430 that the UPS driver could not deliver my package at 410 PM because there was no one at my house to sign for it. No one. Just me, my wife and my mother-in-law and I'm sitting here on the couch piddling on the laptop and looking at the window marveling at how heavy the rain is coming down. That e-mail tells me my package would be dropped off at a local UPS Access Point (small store about two miles from my house) for me to pick up. So I drive up there the next day and it's not there. I waste time trying to talk to someone at the UPS help center and spend time sparring with a computerized system and getting no where. I get an e-mail from a customer service rep who tells me that their driver did try to deliver the package and no one was home - because the driver said it, that made it so. Wasted my time responding to that one, too. I get another e-mail Sunday that my package would be delivered on Monday (yesterday). I'm retired, but that day my wife had an emergency dentist appt. at 2 PM and I drove here there. On the way back we stop at the UPS Access Point (Dollar Tree store) and the manager checks but says there is no package for me. I come home, I've got an e-mail telling met the package was dropped off - at that Dollar Tree store at 935 AM. Today, I drive back to the Dollar Tree store and (you guessed it) still no package for me (same manager as yesterday.) I come home, get back on the computer and this time I actually get to talk to a nice lady at UPS about my issues. We exchange info, she checks, she tells me the package was delivered to my house yesterday at 935 AM. I tell here I was here till 130 PM and no package was delivered to my house and even the e-mail says it was delivered to the Dollar Tree store. She checks further and tells me she needs to do some checking because something is wrong. The tracking info says the package was delivered to an UPS Access Point but the address is my street/home address, not the Dollar Tree store address in the e-mail. Their information is conflicting and confusing and she enters a claim for me to get it quickly looked into and figured out and marked it for urgent work so they will contact me either by phone or e-mail within the hour. Well, been 3 hrs. now. No phone calls. No new e-mails. I'm beginning to think I'm not going to see that package. The driver(s) are either confused what they did with it or not being honest about what happened to it. And there isn't a darn thing I can do about it to aggravate UPS as badly as they've aggravated me for the last few days.
  7. Disassemble, use cloth/cottonballs, something lint free and alcohol to remove the oil (might take a couple repetitions). Then, when it's dry, apply a coat of car wax (I've been using Nufinish, since I had some for the brass polisher) and buff off when dry (inside and outside and the bases if metal). Then apply a second coat of wax and buff off when dry. Lightly oil the spring and put it back together. It will load/feed out slicker. It will be more protected from the salt/sweat from your hands. It will be resistant to collecting dust/lint/dirt. A dry paper towel wiped around on it will make is shine like a newly oiled magazine (or newly waxed) easily and quickly when your done with it for the day.
  8. CZ mags are made by Mecgar for CZ. Mecgar makes mags. for so many other handgun manufacturers that they are "everywhere."
  9. Not 1911's but CZ has been making the P01 (aluminum frame 9MM) for almost 20 years. Never heard much about excessive frame wear or frame cracking. People love them. They also make a PCR (CZ75BD type compact with an aluminum frame, also in 9MM). Again, don't see complaints about frame issues with those either. Not saying you should buy a CZ 9MM, saying there are aluminum framed/steel slide pistols that have been made/sold/used for years with no excessive wear complaints. Keep it clean/lubed and it should keep running if it was designed/built correctly.
  10. P07 .40 Spent several years looking for something that was reliable and accurate. After several popular pistols I saw a DUTY P07 in .40 and bought it. Darn thing outshoots every previous center fire pistol I own (five or six different brands in different calibers). The P07 is as reliable as the best of those and more reliable than some of them. IWB on the right side for the pistol and IWB on the left side for the spare magazine. I have a P01 9MM that does pretty well on paper as well. It is also reliable. I recently bought an M&P Compact in .45 acp that shows lots of promise. Makes the other 3 M&Ps look pretty bad (they never looked good to start with). If it proves good enough to warrant an RMR installation then I would carry it with confidence.
  11. Had my P09 9MM done several years ago. Liked it so well I sent the P07 off for the same work about a week later. Then I had them refinish a pretty ragged looking Pre B CZ85 a few months after that (two tone cerakote on that one).
  12. Pistol brass - sort it. Drop it in the vibratory cleaners with crushed walnut shell media for about 4 hours. Pull it out, look it over, and if it's not clean those pieces go back for another 4 hrs. or to the water/lemishine/SS pin cleaning set up if it's just nasty). If it was wet cleaned it gets dried before going back into the jugs with the already cleaned brass. Then I resize it with a carbide die - no lube used. Bell/flare the case mouth, prime it, load it. Rifle brass - sort it. Drop it in the vibratory cleaners with crushed walnut shell media for about 4 hours. Pull it out, look it over, and if it's not clean those pieces go back for another 4 hrs. or to the water/lemishine/SS pin cleaning set up if it's just nasty). If it was wet cleaned it gets dried before going back into the jugs with the already cleaned brass. Then I resize it with lube and drop it back in the vibratory cleaner with crushed walnut shell to remove the remaining case lube (takes about 30 minutes or so). Bell/flare the case mouth, prime it, load it. When I remember to put a cap of Nufinish car wax into the crushed walnut shell media I can really tell the difference in how shiny/bright the brass coming out of the vibratory cleaner is vs. no wax. Really makes a difference.
  13. If dropping them on the bullet nose did that to the case neck tension/crimping must be impressive. No bullet tip damage? The only time I've seen that happen is when case length is inconstant and the seating die is set up so close to the case mouth that the crimp force pushed the case mouth back/down enough to bulge the shoulder. I normally don't crimp rifle rounds but with a single stage press I've used a short case to set up the seating die and then later hit a longer case and the crimp forced the shoulder to bulge like that. Will something bulged that bad even go into a resizing die? 4,000? Darn, that would bug me, too.
  14. Can't say it's identical to my problem a few years back. I tried the stronger striker spring - installed Glock striker springs in mine (the one that was showing the failure to fire issue and the other one that worked great) but it didn't help The problem was the striker block. The Apex striker block has a more radiused/polished corner/edge that the trigger bar loop contacts and pushes against. Due to the greater radius on the edge the striker block's rise upwards is delayed a little bit during the trigger bar rearward movement (vs. the factory striker block). If it's not out of the way when the striker is released the striker hits the edge of it and "bounces" on by it to hit the primer - but after bouncing by the striker block it has lost enough force it doesn't always set off the primer. At least that's my impression of what is happening. An adjustment to the trigger bar/loop to make the Apex striker block begin moving upwards sooner as the trigger bar moves rearward cured it. I went from two or three misfires per magazine to 350 rounds without a single misfire. Then I stopped shooting it and put it in the safe (because I'd already moved to a CZ P07 by then for carry use and the P07's accuracy was so impressive I've stuck with it for the last 8 or 9 years). But, the bottom line is the M&P was flawless, misfire wise, after the trigger bar/loop adjustment. I'm pretty sure the Apex web site has videos of how to make those adjustments. Lots of good information in their videos.
  15. So far, on mine (2.0 9MM 5" FDE 9MM) the best "feel" thing I've done is install the Apex trigger kit. Trigger is absolutely awesome now, better than some of my hammer fired CZs. The best thing I've done to reduce groups is to install an Apex barrel. And, mine seems to like the Winchester 9MM Nato 124 grain FMJ ammo for shooting it's best groups. It doesn't do well with the Remington 115 FMJ, the Federal 115 FMJ, the 115 grain hollow point reloads that do so well in my CZ pistols, or the 147 grain Winchester hollow points. In another thread on this forum a member suggested to me to look into replacing the front locking block in my pistol. He said he did that on his and it tightened up the barrel play/movement and improved his groups. That will be my next attempt.
  • Create New...