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M1A4ME

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About M1A4ME

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    James Cale

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  1. M1A4ME

    No love for the S&W M&P in USPSA

    I absolutely loved the way they feel in my hand. Picked one up at a gun show and couldn't put it back down till I had to sign all the paperwork and pull out my credit card. Got it home, took it to the range. Accuracy and trigger weren't good. Got it home. Trigger just died. Apex CAEK made it "sweet" again. Accuracy didn't get as good as I'd hoped and meanwhile I'd bought another one in .40 S&W along with a .357 SIG barrel. Tumbling bullets from the SIG barrel. Same ammo did fine (not the greatest groups in the world) out of my Glock M31 with no tumbling bullets. About a year later the 9 got back into the dead trigger/failure to fire issues. Finally got it figured out after swapping the 9MM internals to the .40 frame and the .40 internals to the 9MM frame. Got it fixed, finally. Put 450 rounds through it over a couple of range trips and put it in the safe to stay. By then I had a P07 and had the reliability, accuracy the M&P's didn't give me and it still felt good in my hand. I really did like the way those M&Ps fit my hand. They felt good. Just takes more than that. I sometimes think about an M&P FS in .45 acp, then quickly remind myself of the previous issues and the "want" goes away. I did recently buy one of the new M&P .380 Shield EZ pistols. Came home, got online to register it for the warranty purposes and found out they already had a recall out on them for safety issues. Sometimes I don't think I'm all that smart. Then I take a look at the girl I've been married to for 41 years and realize I've done a few things right.
  2. M1A4ME

    M&P .380 Shield EZ - POS or Not?

    I bought a new one a couple months back. Went to the S&W website to register it for the warranty and found out they already had a recall on them for safety issues. Called S&W (the web site page to report your serial number see if yours was recalled was defective, too, so I had to call them) and the lady confirmed I needed to seen my brand new M&P back for the safety recall/warranty work. Got it back a couple weeks later, took it to the range, no issues. Took it to the range a couple weeks later and once again, no issues. I have heard of issues where some of them eject the last round in the magazine along with the empty of the next to the last round. People say that issue is magazine follower related. I've only shot Remington FMJ and hollow points through it so I can't say if any other brands/bullet weights work. Reasonably accurate. About like the two M&P's I had a few years ago. Not what I'd want, not what I carry every day, but you can hit somebody in the chest with it at 10 yds. or so, every time.
  3. M1A4ME

    Oh crap! To the hospital

    I was out shooting one day and someone dumped a bunch of old appliances on our "range". Water heater tank - .230 grain FMJ would just bounce off of it. Made a dent. I expected it to go through, but nope. Shot it again, bounced off again. Even the .357 magnum snub nose Ruger would shoot through one side of the tank and raise a pimple on the other. The 240 grain .44 magnums would put holes in both sides and keep on trucking. We put a 5 gallon bucket of water on one of the shelves inside a refrigerator and the .44 shot clean through both sides of the refrigerator and the 5 gal. bucket of water. Not sure what a pair of "shoe/foot guards" made out of water heater tank metal would weigh, but they might be good for exercising in. Like those ankle weights some people use. Best thing is probably work on your "moves" with an unloaded pistol.
  4. M1A4ME

    What kind of bullets are you feeding your PCC?

    If I shoot store bought, the Federal 115 grain FMJ brass cased ammo from wallyworld does pretty good in my carbine. I can get 100 round box for just under $18.
  5. If you use something that strips the lubricant/rust preventive oils off the metal then you need to use something else to put them back, or you'll get rust sooner or later. I use carb or brake cleaner, it really doesn't take much, a can will do several frames (not sure how long anyone else goes before blowing out the frame, but I clean mine often enough I don't use much - then again, I use enough lube the crud stays mostly soft and blows out easily). Afterwards I let it dry, inspect it, and use something like rem-oil - just to put lube/rust preventive oils back on the metal surfaces. I wipe off the excess, then lube with Mobil 1 for the real lubrication job. I do remove the grips first. Carb/brake cleaners can harm wood finishes, some rubber/plastic parts. I've used brake cleaner on Glock, M&P and my P07/P09 frames and not had any issues.
  6. I haven't broken the extractor on my Faxon bolt but if I do I can just grab a spare AR15 piece out of the box of parts. No issues with it so far.
  7. M1A4ME

    Military vs. Commercial Brass

    I use all of it. I only have to swage the primer pocket once (out of how many reloadings??) to remove the crimp. 7.62X51 brass is thicker than .308 brass. I've not seen 9MM NATO brass that was thicker than 9MM commercial brass. There are some foreign ammo makers that do make thicker 9MM brass. When you look into the case you can see a ring/step so far down that would stop a bullet from being pushed back into the case if neck tension fails to hold it. That brass can cause problems when trying to use bullets heavier than 124 grain and can cause pressure issues with your load due to the smaller internal volume. When I run across that "stepped" 9MM brass during cleaning/inspection steps I toss it in the scrap brass jug.
  8. Like the man said. It helps some and makes no difference in others. If your gun shoots good groups then it's good to go. If your gun doesn't shoot good groups and you KNOW it's the gun and not you, then try it to see. I've got a couple/three CZ's with no need of the bushing and it's helped the two I have installed them in.
  9. M1A4ME

    Shoot It or Pull It?

    Remember neck tension? Holds the bullet in place? If you don't have enough neck tension the bullet can be shoved deeper into the case - raising chamber pressures. I would not shoot that. When it feeds from the magazine to the chamber it'll take a smack on the nose of the bullet and there's no way to tell how deeply into the case it'll move back. As to dropping it in the chamber (if it even will, due to the cracked brass sticking up) is your pistol "okay" with jamming the extractor claw into/over the case rim? That normally doesn't happen. The extractor claw slips over the rim as the cartridge moves upwards from the magazine to the chamber.
  10. M1A4ME

    9mm buffer in 223 carbine?

    I could be wrong....but aren't .223 carbine and 9MM buffers different lengths? I'm running a .223 carbine H2 buffer in one of my 9MM ARs and I had to add spacers at the back of the buffer tube (why is this thing adding a link to my text????) to adjust the bolt travel vs. bolt stop to keep from eventually breaking the bolt stop. If you put a true 9MM buffer in the .223 carbine buffer tube will the bolt go back far enough to lock back when the magazine goes empty?
  11. M1A4ME

    Mag falling out of XDm after 2nd shot

    Disassemble the magazine. Remove the slide from the frame of the pistol. Insert the magazine shell and look to see if the slide release goes completely into the shell or if it's hanging up part of the way in. My cousin had a double stack 1911 that was doing this with a couple of magazines. We had to slightly open up the mag. catch hole/slot on the top to allow the mag. catch to fully engage into the magazine shell. If that's the problem it won't take much metal removal to make a difference. Then again, with no rounds in it and no slide on it, you won't get any resistance to fully inserting the mag. shell either, so it might go completely into place. Good luck with it.
  12. M1A4ME

    An interesting jam...

    I bought a Colt Series 70 MkIV that would damage the brass like that, two caved in spots not quite 180 degrees apart, but it didn't jam up, it just damaged the case mouth of the brass and kept on firing. I ended up (probably got lucky) fixing it by replacing the Commander style ejector with a government style ejector, going with a stronger recoil spring and a different extractor. The magazines I used were common to my other two Colts which never showed the problem. It's like an "accident". One, or two of the things that contributed to the accident are there all the time. But, add that third/fourth thing in with the existing two and something falls, breaks, burns, blows up, etc., etc.
  13. M1A4ME

    Improving long range rifle shooting

    Unless you get lucky, I wouldn't recommend a .22 conversion kit for an Appleseed. By lucky, I mean a combination of reliability and accuracy. I have a Ceiner kit that works very well in one of my carbines. It is the only one I'd trust (that kit is reliable in other AR15's but the other AR15 aren't as accurate with .22 ammo at that particular carbine.) While it's true a Remington or Ruger .22 won't be identical to your AR15, you can still learn fundamentals with them. And they need to be reliable/accurate as well. The minimum standard for shooting good scores at an Appleseed is being able to put your bullets into a 1" circle. Yes, you can learn/improve/have fun at an Appleseed, but the rifleman's badge isn't easy to get. I've read some people go to two or even three appleseeds before they finally shoot well enough to get that badge. Then, some people shoot well enough n their very first one. Why do you use match bullets for plinking? At 25 yds. the Hornady 55 grain FMJBT bullets will shoot plenty good enough to work at an appleseed - or just for fun at the range. Forgot, the question about how many rounds are fired at an appleseed? Could be 400 to 600 rounds or more. Lots of shooting, lots of repetitions of the exercises/stages. Standing, sitting/kneeling and prone sling supported firing positions.
  14. M1A4ME

    Improving long range rifle shooting

    You can buy/build a .22 rim fire trainer to substitute for the center fire rifles. I bought a used 10/22 and set it up to mimic my M1A/M1 Garand. Some people buy the .22 rim fire versions of AR15's. Some people buy the Marling and Remington semi auto .22's (don't know about now, but 20 years ago people were really liking the Marlins while others were having a lot of malfunction issues with the Remingtons). While most of the training/shooting is at 25 meters, the fundamentals are still fundamentals.
  15. M1A4ME

    Why is Trijicon RMR bad?

    I have two DI (Dual Illuminated - fiber optic for use where there is enough light, tritium for use when the FO won't collect enough light) RMR on CZ pistols. One is green and one amber. These are just my experiences: Green, works fine in daylight hours as long as I'm in a place where the light is equal to or greater than where the target is located. Nice green dot, easy to see. But, if I'm in a low light area - like in the house or under the firing line overhead cover at a range - the green dot is just about impossible for me to see on the target. First time this situation occurred I thought my new RMR "was broke already." Amber, is so bright when I'm in a well lighted area you just can't miss it (you almost wish you could turn a knob and dim it down a little - I've read some people put a little tape over the FO window to partially block the amount of light it can pick up). In the conditions where I can't see the green dot (me in low light, target in brighter light) I can still see the amber dot just fine. The amber dot RMR is on my EDC P07. The green dot RMR is on my range gun P09 which doubles as a bedroom gun. Some people report the opposite of what I experience. The say they can see the green dot better than the amber dot. Before you buy, check them out at the store if they'll let you. Oh, I've also read the green dot has almost twice the tritium life of the amber dots. No idea why.
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