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M1A4ME

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About M1A4ME

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    James Cale

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  1. Concealed carry for me, but almost had the same issue. I carried the back up mag. in a pants pocket. Seemed fine. One day I came home took the pistol out of the holster and the magazine out of my pocket and field stripped the pistol for cleaning/inspection/lubing. I don't remember, now, why I was thumbing the bullets out of the magazine. Anyway, after two or three rounds thumbed out there was no next round for my thumb to push. Looked down in the magazine and it had ammo it but not feeding up to the magazine lips. WTH?? Shook the magazine but didn't get the rounds
  2. Be sure to wear safety glasses or monogoggles when using a spray cleaner. Brake fluid in the eyes burns like hell. Still don't know how I made it from the garage to the shower in the house without falling over something.... Be sure to use a spray lube afterwards as many spray cleaners completely strip the oil from the metal surfaces and they can rust quickly in the wrong climate/conditions. Then apply your usual lube and wipe off the excess.
  3. Not saying a better trigger is vital for improved groups. I bought/installed the Apex trigger as step in trying to get the M&P 2.0 5" 9Mm to shoot like my CZs shoot. Didn't help. The trigger is awesome now. It still won't shoot like my P09 or my P01. The Apex barrel did help improve the groups, but still not to CZ standards. Took a chance on another M&P 9MM and group wise it's not much better than the 1.0 I bought 12 years ago (some better, but not enough). But, the trigger is head/shoulders "better" than the factory 2.0 trigger.
  4. Apex? Absolutely. I put an Apex trigger kit in my 2.0 5" FDE 9MM and it is awesome. Better than some of my hammer fired CZs for crispness and better than all of them for reset. Impressed me enough that when I ordered my 2.0 .45 I ordered the Apex trigger kit before I ever even got shipping confirmation on the .45. The Apex web site has a chart that shows what springs to use (whether all M&P, all Apex or a mix of both) to get a trigger pull weight in the range you're looking for. My 9MM started out at 3.0 lbs. and over use/time it's dropped to almost 2
  5. Never had the TLR1 fail (batteries, yes, on the .357 SIG M&P) but I hate taking it off the rail to replace the batteries.
  6. Only time I've seen brass like the one with the ledge is when I was using a Lee carbide resizing die. Switched to a set of RCBS dies with a carbide sizing die and am much happier. The Lee die really undersized the brass. Real coke bottle look to the finished round after bullet seating/crimping. Tremendous amount of effort to resize the brass, too. Like resizing rifle brass but with 9MM.
  7. I mostly use Nu finish car wax. I've only used Never Dull once. Don't remember which mags. I used it on, so no good comparison. I didn't use never dull to make the mags. shiny, or smoother. I used the wax and the polish to: 1. protect the metal of the magazine from moisture/sweat 2. make the rounds load smoother and feed out easier 3. make the mags less likely to pick up/hold dust/dirt than when I use oil to protect the metal surfaces It works. Two years of sweating on my mags/pistol when carried IWB and getting water, dirt, sawdust, etc. on it when
  8. You change from factory/stock parts to higher performance aftermarket parts you've changed the geometry of how the parts work together to function properly. Not saying it's unsafe. I'm saying it was designed to work a certain way with the factory parts and you replaced those with parts from somewhere else. No surprise the parts don't work together like it did out of the box. The question is, does the safety still work properly as far as stopping the hammer from dropping when the safety is "ON" and the trigger is pulled? If the answer is yes, you're okay, if the answe
  9. Blue Dot is my powder for 9MM and .40 S&W hollow point loads. Compressed powder charge, you won't double load it. My loads are under the max charge, but still feel stout. I've got some Greed Dot, haven't used it, but I have seen loads for it in at least one reloading manual. I'll try it one of these days to use up that old shotgun powder. If you run across Herco, I've found that one to work well in .40 with lead bullets (or coated bullets).
  10. both mine have standard AR15 hammer springs in them and no issues with CCI SP or SPM primers. When I got my M&P 15 5.45X39 it came with an extra power hammer spring for the hard primers in the surplus ammo. So, someone out there makes extra power hammer springs in case you find you need one of those.
  11. Had that problem (finally) last year. Some of the cases I was loading were slightly longer than others. I'd set the (very small) amount of crimp up to remove the flare on the case mouth on a shorter case, I suppose. When a longer case went through the crimp die I'd get a small bulge very near the case mouth (vs. down at the top of the shoulder like a rifle case when over crimped). I hate the thought of having to trim a darn pistol case.
  12. S&W issues I've seen or experienced. 686's had to have the firing pin nose bushing replaced as the hole was too large. Especially with 125 grain .357 ammo would allow the primer cup metal to flow back into the hole and lock up/make it draggy popping loose. Back to S&W to have the bushings replaced. This was an early issue with lots of them. Could still happen now and then on the new guns. 65. Officer came in saying he could not pull the trigger on his revolver to fire it. S&W didn't use different grades of SS in their SS pistols on parts that rubbed/ro
  13. Saw this thread yesterday morning, went to PD and Everglades and saw they had 180 grain FMJ, but no hollow points. When you see what you want, grab it quick, it won't last long.
  14. Forgot that one, watch it every time it's on.
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