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About M1A4ME

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    James Cale

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  1. M1A4ME


    One thing is you are gradually compressing the spring that makes the hammer move forward and strike the firing pin. Another is you are compressing the small spring on the firing pin block. And your are twisting the trigger return spring. And you are moving parts that rub against each other (friction) that adds to the feel of the trigger pull. Lots of parts and work that will improve the feel and reduce the force required to shoot it double action.
  2. Yup. Ordered three Mecgar 14 round .40 S&W CZ75 magazines a few months back. Noticed they would just barely push the slide stop up. It was catching on the upper corner of the slide stop instead of moving fully upwards when the magazine was empty. Concerned me. I ordered some Wolf +10% magazine springs and they move that slide stop all the way up into the notch in the slide. Plus, I even took the +2 base off the magazine and the factory springs still didn't move the slide stop fully upwards into the notch in the slide. On the other hand, bought a new M&P 2.0 a few weeks back. Had a big coffee container of 9MM magazines from my first round with M&Ps and got several of them out of the container to use with the new pistol. I put some +2 bases on the 17 round factory magazines and had several failures to lock the slide back after the last round. Again, ordered new Wolf +10% magazine springs and replaced all the old springs (which were never really used all that much due to the reliability and accuracy issues that drove me away from the 1.0's in the first place.) I might have gotten a couple thousand rounds through the 1.0 before giving up on it. That was through several magazines. Picture of the old/used springs beside the two new S&W magazine springs (the two mags that were in the box with the new pistol). Lots of "shrinkage".
  3. Slickest thing I saw at a rifle field shoot one day was an old guy pull a plastic spoon out of the trash, light plastic spoon with his lighter and then use the thick black smoke from the plastic spoon blackened that front sight really well. Not sure how hot the black smoke is, but it does a better/faster job than just the lighter by itself. Or, when you get home, put some tape on the front, rear and sides of the FO rod and the slide, then use some flat black spray paint to hit the metal parts of the front sight. Let it dry a few minutes and remove the tape.
  4. I use an old plastic shell holder from a box of ammo. I seat the primers. I turn the cases base down in the plastic tray and charge all 50 of them with powder. Then I use a nice bright little flashlight to examine the charges. I make sure each piece of brass has powder in it, then I tilt the tray slightly towards me and again use the flashlight to shine into several cases at the same time. That allows me to quickly pick up on charge levels that look higher, or lower, than the charge levels in the cases around them. You'd be surprised how quickly your eye and mind will work together to point out differences to you.
  5. The trigger return spring keeps the trigger pin in place. The pin is smaller in diameter in the center, where the coiled up spring rests. The OD of the pin where it fits into the frame is slightly smaller than the stock pin and is not a friction fit, so I can be pushed/popped out easier.
  6. Sure, but my mind "tries" to tell me the primer pocket is larger, too. One of those, "It looks funny" but it really can't be kind of things.
  7. Funny how the primer (at least to me) on the left look larger in diameter than the one on the right. I know it isn't, but it looks like it is. You wouldn't think a slightly flatter primer would look noticeably larger.
  8. I have several different brands (always trying new/different stuff). I install/use BUIS on my AR's. If you don't then the following advice isn't needed - I buy/use mounts that put my scope where I can use the same cheek weld as the BUIS. No changes. Consistency is important, to me. If I have to pull the scope off I want my cheek/eye in the same place when I pop up the sights. I have a couple sets of Warne QD rings on "risers" on AR15's. I do like them. If I pull the scope off the riser, use the irons, and then reinstall the QD rings/scope in the same slots on the riser the scope/rifle/bullet is still dialed in. Oh, I have no consistency in scopes though. Some illuminated, some not, some low power variable, some mid range variable, some 1", and some 30 MM. Yeah, I know it's an old thread someone "restarted."
  9. On the CZ Forum I've read it is better for TRS reliability/life to keep it lubed.
  10. M1A4ME


    I don't remember, now, what I ordered or where I got it. I just looked at the Wolf Spring Co. web site. They say the factory M&P 9/40 striker spring is 4.5 lbs. and the factory Glock is 5.0 lbs. They offer higher power springs for Glock pistols (up to 6.0 lbs.) but not for the M&P. They only offer lighter striker springs for the M&Ps. They also say the lighter springs reduce trigger pull. I'd guess that the heavier springs may increase trigger pull some. https://www.gunsprings.com/GLOCK ®/cID1/mID5/dID116#131
  11. M1A4ME


    Why do you feel the need for an extended tip on the striker? Been having failure to fire issues? One thing that was suggested to me a few years back when my M&P 9MM 1.0 was having those issues was to buy/install a Glock striker spring. They were said to be stronger springs and would result in the striker hitting the primer harder. They installed with no issue. Didn't fix mine as I had two other issues but I left the glock striker spring in mine even after I got it fixed. Not sure whether a stronger striker spring would up the trigger pull force required or not.
  12. Don't compete. I do have, and carry, a P01 Omega. My first kydex holster came from Cleveland Kydex Co. Specifically to fit the TLR3 on the rail (and the taller suppressor sights on the Urban Gray P01). My second holster is a combination of leather and kydex from White Hat Holsters. I use it for the black P01 Omega with the Olight PL mini on the rail. I think (no proof) that that holster was actually made for a standard P01 (they are decocker models, not safety models). I have the safeties installed on my Omega pistols. When I'd holster the P01 Omega interference with the kydex would move the safety to the "FIRE" position. Notified White Hat Holsters and they told me I could send it back if I wanted. I took the heat gun and a common screw driver and relieved the kydex shell in a manner that locked the safety in the "SAFE" position when in the holster. I carry that Omega P01 in that White Hat holster quite a bit.
  13. Looks like there is always some variance in results (like there is in new pistols). I put the 100-154 APEX kit in my 5" 9MM. The only spring I used from the kit was the one for the striker block. I left the factory trigger return spring and sear spring in. No polishing/stoning of any parts. Trigger pull tested out at 3&1/4 lbs. and is unbelievable on reset. You let the trigger out till you hear/feel the reset and stop. Movement to the rear between reset and release is undetectable to me. Did I say it was awesome? Much better results than my first APEX kit install in the 9MM 1.0 M&P FS several years ago. I would spend that money for the Apex kit again if I bought another M&P 2.0.
  14. Latest CZ. CZ75B in .40 S&W. I installed the spur hammer (last one I had) and the CZ85 right side slide lock/release lever (I'm a CZ85 fan).
  15. M1A4ME

    CZ models

    If you search the internet vendors/dealers you'll see them around for a few years, most likely. I still see P07 DUTY pistols at gun shows now and then and think how long it's been since they stopped making those. And, as stated earlier, it's not hard or expensive to convert a CZ75B to SAO. Even a Compact can be converted - as long as it's the safety model, not the decocker model. Having said that, a race hammer from CGW (CZ Custom is probably just as good but I've never bought one from them) along with their (CGW) adjustable sear will make for an amazing single action trigger pull even if you leave the pistol SA/DA capable.
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