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M1A4ME

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About M1A4ME

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    James Cale

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  1. Oh, I just meant that in case you checked and it was missing, there are some people that do remove them. The believe they get a better feeling trigger/pull.
  2. CZ75 - should be a Pre B (pre firing pin Block). So, no firing pin block. CZ75B - firing pin block. It's what the B stands for. CZ75BD - firing pin block with a decocking lever rather than a safety. D stands for decocker. Can you remove the firing pin block from a CZ75B, or CZ75B SA? Sure. People do it. In my experience it isn't necessary if you get a nice hammer/adjustable sear from CGW. Reason for the adjustable sear? Saves a butt load of time trying to remove enough metal from either the forward arm on the sear or the cam on the left side thumb safety. I've got a couple of CZ75Bs that are exactly 3 lbs. for the SA trigger pull. It's such a crisp 3 lb. pull that you have to put the trigger pull ga. on it and try it a couple/three times to convince yourself it really is 3 lbs. It feels lighter than it is.
  3. https://i.imgur.com/F0awkv5l.jpg?1[/img] P07 IWB holster. I removed some kydex at the top with a razor knife, smoothed the newly cut edges with a sanding drum on a Dremel, used a heat gun to soften it and then a wood chisel just the right size to form the expanded area for the front of the RMR housing. Had to be just right (width and height) to also cover the back up rear sight which is in front of the DI RMR. Works like a charm. I use it every day I leave my house to drive somewhere.
  4. I trust my Colt 1911s. I have three of them. I don't carry any of them. I carry a P07 day in/day out. Because of the 20 plus years of carrying 1911s I went through a lot of pistols to find something that gave me cocked and locked carry, reliability, accuracy and still feels good in my hand. Why do I carry the P07? Thirteen rounds. Easy to put an RMR on it. I won't feel bad when I scratch/gouge it up. I got out my 1917 made Colt 1911 a couple/three years ago for it's 100th birthday shoot. It's original with the itty bitty sights, spur hammer, small thumb safety, short, grip safety, etc., etc. I grabbed a bunch of partial boxes of .45 acp ammo and took to the range. We (my oldest son and one of his buddies) used that old Colt to shoot up 185 grain LSWC, 200 grain LSWC, 200 grain LRN, 230 grain LRN and 230 grain FMJ. 100% function. It still works, after all these years. But I won't carry it. All guns are not created equal. Even if they are same brand/model/caliber. One will be more accurate, or reliable, than the other. Any test has to be with a large enough sample size to be meaningful. And then, sooner or later, you'll still run into one that doesn't fit into the group.
  5. They used to carry/sell S&B primers at great prices. Last time I bought some they were around $22 per thousand. Now they don't carry them, they carry what Bass Pro carries and it costs too much to buy there (get most of mine at gun shows at lower prices.) The only thing I've bought at Bass Pro is fishing kayaks. Now Cabela's is selling the same brands.
  6. Always worked for me. Then wipe it out with an oily cloth every time you clean the pistol, just like you wipe off the outside metal surfaces.
  7. I dropped PayPal a couple months back. I kept getting these small charges to my discover card labeled "paypal services". No one at paypal would respond to my questions other than to send me an e-mail to use their "canned" troubleshooting questions/responses for any issues I was having. Two months I called Discover card and contested those "service charges" of anywhere from $.86 to just under $3. There would be 4 or 5 a month on my discover card. These "service charges" didn't show up on my Paypal account info either. I stopped using paypal for a month or so prior to closing my account with them. Even when I didn't use paypal my discover card was still getting "service charges." I never sold/received payment using paypal. I just bought stuff with it, sometimes. I have no idea what the issue was, I just know that paypal didn't show any interest in helping me figure it out and stop it so I'm done with them.
  8. For some reason my M&P 2.0 9MM 5" shoots it's best groups with the Winchester 9MM NATO 124 grain FMJ ammo. I, or course, need to find something similar to reload for it to see if I can maintain those groups with ammo I know I can always get. I looked up the ballistics info on the Winchester website and that ammo is up around 1200 fps muzzle velocity. Few loadings in the reloading manuals show that kind of velocity for a 124 grain bullet. And yes, that ammo does seem to have more recoil than the 115 grain and 147 grain hollow points I've shot through that pistol.
  9. Yup. But it's up to the guy/girl reloading the ammo to make sure it's done right. From all the videos on the internet it's easy to see not everyone should be reloading. I've been shooting reloaded shot gun shells since I was in Jr. High school back in the early 70's. I have some pistols and a butt load of rifles that have never had a factory round fired through them. My nephew built up a nice heavy barreled AR15 a few years ago. He bought Winchester, Federal and Remington ammo to try in it. We sighted it in at 25 yds. and then walked over to the 100 yd. line to shoot groups and get the BDC reticle adjusted for a 100 yd. zero. He shot his factory ammo and I fiddled with my GII and the SA surplus I'd been shooting with it. I handed him some of my .223 reloads (55 grain Hornady FMJ and IMR4198 powder) and let him shoot those while he was shooting 100 yd. groups and finding which ammo he'd bought gave him the best groups. When he was done and retrieved his targets to make a decision about his future ammo purchases I asked him which ammo shot the best groups. He looked at me and said, "That stuff you gave me." There's a reason I shoot my reloads 95% of the time. Someone can hold a rifle/pistol maker and ammo maker liable for issues. It's hard to figure out who "Joe at the gun show" is if his ammo blows up your weapon. Harder still to make him pay for it.
  10. M1A4ME

    SAO vs DA SA

    A nice "crisp" trigger pull always feels like a lighter trigger pull. I can remember looking at my trigger pull ga. and thinking, "No way. Just no way it's really 3 lbs." It was 3 lbs. on the 2nd trigger pull. Again, I just struggled to believe it. It was 3 lbs. on the 3rd and 4th trigger pulls, too. These were CZ's with the SA/DA set up intact with CZUSA spur hammers and the factory sear on one and CGW adjustable sear on the other. MY XD .45, with PRP trigger kit parts dropped from a nasty, gritty, ugly 6.5 lbs. down to a nice crisp 4.5 lbs. and again, the trigger ga. was required to convince me that it wasn't much lighter than that. Crisp is nice.
  11. My Colt Series 80 (1991A1 Stainless) does indeed have a half cock notch on the hammer. Just unloaded it and checked it. I took the stuff out of mine years ago (bought in about 89 or 90, just before the first time Colt announced they were going to stop selling guns to the public - handguns that time, then deal with CZ to make them fell through and Colt went back to business as usual). Not because of the trigger pull, it has a pretty nice trigger. Every bit as good as many of my CZs and better than any factory Glock, XDM, M&P or FNS trigger I've pulled. I had to buy an Apex trigger kit for my M&P 2.0 to get a reset like the 1991A1 came from the factory with. Now, since it's been zipped up in the soft cast for about 8 years without being cleaned/shot I think I'll field strip it and lube it up. I need to make a range trip date for it and the 5" XD Tactical .45 and see which one shoots the best groups. Oh, didn't remove the oops I dropped it from 8 feet muzzle down on the concrete stuff for any reason other than I used the extractor and firing pin in another Colt that was having some issues and just never swapped the parts back. Thought about it awhile back but couldn't find the little levers. I'll run across them some day while cleaning/organizing stuff.
  12. RCBS, but the same idea. It would push the primers out but the primer stuck to the tip, then as the shell casing moved downward it would pull the primer partly back into the pocket before pulling it off the tip of the pin. I used a Dremel and cut off wheel to bevel one side a little bit, so it wasn't uniformly round/tapered anymore. That's all it took.
  13. Belus, Some were in a Pre B, some in a CZ 75B in .40 S&W and one in a CZ Tactical Sport .40. In the Pre B it was four out of eight of some 19 round magazines I'd ordered. The mag well was opened up some (using 16 round magazines as a guide) before I had it refinished. In the CZ75B .40 it was three new 14 round (12 round with the Mecgar +2 bases on them) and one out of seven of the Tac. Sport magazines (these were used, so it may have been dropped, banged around some??)
  14. I keep reading, on the CZ Forum, that Mecgar makes the CZ magazines. If they are made for CZ they are stamped CZ and CZ adds $10 or so to the price of them. If Mecgar makes/sells them they stamp Mecgar on them and they are cheaper than the CZ magazines. One issue would be that it's tough (impossible?) to put the +2 round plastic Mecgar and CZ bases on a 16 round magazine and use it in a full sized pistol. The body isn't long enough to provide the room needed between the frame and the top of the base (BTDT). You need the 17 round magazines for those +2 round bases. I have had issues with both Mecgar and CZ stamped magazines not fitting correctly in the magazine wells of CZ pistols. Sometimes a "fat" magazine slips through QC. Or a skinny mag well. I don't know for sure which is at fault.
  15. I had one of 7 or 8 .40 S&W magazines that would not drop free from my Tactical Sport. It was pretty ragged looking compared to the other ones. Ragged along the corners and rough looking welds, again, as compared to the other ones. All are CZ marked magazines. Some have extended bases on them and some don't. I did some measuring with calipers and then some sanding of the shiny and rough looking corners. Took two sanding sessions to make it work. Cold blued it and no issues since. Another guy on the CZ Forum had issues with his and squeezed them in a vise a bit to eliminate the hanging issues. And his were brand new magazines that were hanging up. I've had more issues with CZ magazines being tight/draggy and hanging up than any other brand of pistol/magazine. Something isn't consistent, don't know if its the magazines or the mag. well. I bought three brand new CZ .40 S&W CZ75 magazines with the +2 bases on them and all three were very difficult to get into the mag. well on the new pistol. They were fine empty but really tight when loaded. I could remove one round from the magazine and it would insert and lock in just fine. I took the +2 bases off them and they worked just great with only 12 rounds in them. Then I had to buy new Wolf +10% springs for them to get them to push the slide release up hard enough to fully lock it into position in the notch of the slide. You have choices. Modify the magazines you have, modify the mag. well of the pistol, or buy new magazines and hope those work correctly.
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