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M1A4ME

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Everything posted by M1A4ME

  1. A good aftermarket hammer from Cajun Gun Works or CZ Custom along with an adjustable sear from Cajun Gun Works. I have a couple with 3 lb. trigger pulls that are so crisp I've got to put the trigger pull ga. on them to prove to myself the trigger pull isn't less than the measured 3 lbs. The reason for the adjustable sear is to eliminate the process of getting the safety to work again with the new hammer. The good hammers from either vendor have a much smaller full cock notch so the original sear sits at a different angle and results in interference with the safety to sear fit up front.
  2. When I was doing more rifle shooting I remember one of the instructors talking about "the rifleman's dance." That referred to the sights/cross hairs of the scope moving on the target. It's going to move. You can't stop it from moving. What you can do is work on your technique/practice to make that "dance" tighter and tighter. The tighter the "dance" the easier it will be for you to put the bullet where you want it. Muscles, practice (dry firing), and improving your technique will get you there. The dot will always move, you just want to make the movement smaller/less.
  3. An Appleseed weekend, not a competition/match. Old guy shows up with two of grandsons, probably 12/13 years old. He's got a mini-14. He pulls two old British Enfields out of cases and hands to the boys along with boxes of ammo. The kids and grandpa listen to the opening instructions/etc. and it's time to start the instruction/shooting. The kids grab their rifles and ammo and hit their shooting mats/rugs. Right away one of them has issues trying to chamber a round. Just can't get the bolt to close. I go over, kneel down between the two boys and start trying to help the first one. Uh oh. 7.62 NATO and a .303 chambered Enfield. Figured the kids got the ammo mixed up and grandpa didn't check to make sure. Turn to help the other kid and his rifle won't chamber the 7.62 ammo either. First thing I thought was "another .303." Nope. Cosmoline. Took it off the line and the grandson, too. Got back behind the firing line and even had cosmoline in the barrel. I like to never got that cleaning rod pushed through the barrel and it took a good while with brushes, patches and solvent to finally get that barrel clean of that old grease. Darn good thing the chamber was plugged up, too, or there'd have been a mess when that kid touched off that first round. Of course, grandpa was down on the line having a good old time while someone else was working to keep his grandsons safe.
  4. When I was having problems with that 1.0 some folks here mentioned that the Glock striker springs (don't remember if it was model dependent) were about 1 or 1.5 lbs. stronger than the M&P striker springs and fit just fine. It did (wasn't my issue) and I left it in there. No issues from it.
  5. Cajun Gun Works also sells lots of parts for CZs. And their shipping is way faster than either of the other two mentioned above. I've ordered from all three, but CGW can't be beat on ship times.
  6. Ordered some .45 230 grain coated bullets from BBI. Got them 4 days later. Never ordered from them before but everyone I usually order from was out of stock. Will order from them again, you bet.
  7. M1A4ME

    XD/XDM

    Bought a couple of the XDM 9's years ago. Disappointed by the accuracy of the 5.25" Competition pistol. Bought a 3.8" for carry and the little sucker outshot the big gun. Everyone who shot the 3.8" liked it better than the 5.25" pistol. Reliability? Never, ever had a failure with either one. Jacketed, plated, lead reloads. Store bought (very little of that.) Bullet weights from 115 to 147. Hollow points, round nosted, or truncated cone, they all ran great. Better than the my Glock. Better than my M&Ps Better than my Browning. Just started feeling not so comfortable about them and bought that first M&P. Had a bucket of troubles with it trying to get it to run bought a .40 M&P (which was an improvement over the 9MM). My wife appropriated the 3.8" because she shot it so well. Got the 5.25", the M&P 9 and my P09 9MM to the range late last year and neither the XDM or the M&P could keep up with the P09, so back into the safe with them. Bought an XD 5" Tactical .45 early last year. Last time I had it at the range I had some failure to fire issues. Have not take the time to try to track down the cause of that and take care of it. Same ammo worked fine in the M&P 2.0 .45, just wouldn't go bang in the XD.
  8. Don't know if it has WST info but Lyman prints/sells a big book of nothing but cast bullet loads. All kinds of bullets, all kinds of powder.
  9. Haven't shot mine enough to break a firing pin, yet. I would like to tell you that not all 9MM AR firing pins work in all 9MM AR bolts. After hearing of short life for the firing pins I bought some spares. Wilson Combat firing pins. My nephew figured he'd just go ahead and replace the firing pin in his fairly new PSA 9MM bolt prior to a range trip. Got to the range and loaded it up and not a single bang in spite of multiple attempts to fire. Brought it over to the house later and we noticed the small diameter section that protrudes through the bolt face was longer on the PSA firing pins vs the Wilson Combat firing pins. Same on my PSA bolt/firing pin. However, the Wilson Combat firing pins worked great in another 9MM bolt installed in my carbine (Faxon bolt). So, not saying any brand is bad, but differences in the bolts can affect what brand of firing pin will work. Compare the firing pins visually at the time of replacement/before you head to the range. Good luck.
  10. M1A4ME

    CGW S-spacer for SP-01

    Go slow, wipe the part off and test fit for function regularly. You don't want to take off too much metal.
  11. M1A4ME

    CGW S-spacer for SP-01

    I fitted one safety to the safety arm of the sear on a CZ75. After that I started buying the CGW adjustable sears and they sure do make the job simpler and quicker. No issues with them either.
  12. Great dogs. Gonna hunt or just a house dog? Our first dog (1962) was a springer mix. Black and white. Male. We had more over the years. Dad was big into bird hunting. If you want to hunt only birds, don't shoot rabbits or squirrels or anything else with the dog, or even bring them home for it to smell/be around. Dad said Rowdy would be working the corn stubble for ringnecks and if someone kicked a rabbit up Rowdy would look up, see the rabbit and ignore it while continuing to look for birds. Then one day he made the mistake of shooting a rabbit that stopped and raised up to look back at him. After that Rowdy was a rabbit dog, too. Same thing happened with squirrels. Dad went hunting, killed a few, brought them home and from then on Rowdy would chase squirrels, too. Similar times with the springer mix dogs we had in the mid 70's. I've been a fan of bird dogs my whole life. Had a few that had nothing to do with bird dogs and was disappointed with their personality and behavior almost every time. Enjoy your new buddy.
  13. What??!!! Get a different gunsmith. Nothing is going to wear that pin, no matter how many rounds you shoot. Nothing the pin contacts moves. Not the front sight, not the bushing and not the slide where the pin/sight/bushing fit together.
  14. A load that shoot good in one pistol may not shoot good in another. Fact of life. Best to develop your own loads. My CZ .40's love those Nosler 135 grain hollow points over a compressed load of Blue Dot. My M&P and FNS pistols could care less about that load. The 180 grain load (winchester 180 grain factory loads) that do pretty well in the FNS .40's suck for air in the CZ .40's. The Winchester 124 FMJ NATO ammo that almost makes the 2.0 9MM M&P 5" look good are sad/sorry in my CZ 9MM pistols. The PD or Zero 115 HPs over Blue Dot that do so well in the CZ 9MM are a waste of time shooting in the that M&P. In my experience you're lucky to find a load that shoots well in more than one brand of pistol.
  15. My EDC concealed pistol is a P07 with a DI RMR on it. Been carrying it that way for 5 or 6 or 7 years now. IWB, right side. Spare mag. left side IWB. In the summer I wear those cargo pocket shorts so I can carry the phone, keys, key fob things for the cars, pocket knife, small flashlight, wallet, change, etc. T shirt tucked into the shorts and a button up short sleeve shirt hanging down past my waste. It's how I dress. All the time. In the winter I carry the same except the pants are regular length cargo pants (still got the same stuff to carry around) with a jacket/coat on over the button up shirt. Went to a wedding a couple weeks back (youngest son) and had to wear a suit (hate those things). Same holster, mag. pouch but dress pants, shirt/tie and suit jacket. My son said something or other and I told him I didn't need one, I had a P07 and a spare mag. He looked at me and said, "Really, you've got the pistol on you?" I'm retired, don't go to work, the P07 goes everywhere I got - or I don't go. Except to the courthouse to get my CC permit renewed every 5 years, or into the DMV to get a new license/registration, etc. The holster I use is not my first, or even second concealed carry holster for that pistol, but it works so I probably won't be getting another one. Holsters are like kayaks. It looks good, it has the right specs at the right price, and then you start using it and find out it really doesn't meant your expectations/needs, so you try to do a better job of picking out "the one" when you buy that second one. On my second kayak, too, and I keep finding myself checking out specs/reviews/prices on another one. Oh, my rig has the slide milled to let the RMR sit lower and support it better. That would make it a bit easier to conceal. 1/4" maybe??
  16. That is the one recommended, over and over, on the CZ Forum. Must work pretty well.
  17. One thing to pay attention to there is keeping the spring arms aligned properly as you tighten the screw down. It will twist clockwise (just as the screw is turned) and be out of alignment if you don't insure it stays properly aligned. If not the spring arms may keep coming out of the grooves on the bottom of the trigger bar and affect trigger pull and function. I did a conversion to SA on one of those steel framed P01 looking CZ75 Compacts (looked like a P01 but stamped CZ75 Compact on the slide). I had a reset issue (upper front part of the SA straight trigger making contact with frame and keeping it from letting the trigger bar go far enough forward to allow the firing pin block lifting arm to reset) and took the pistol apart again. At the time I noticed the trigger bar lifting spring wasn't "straight." Not knowing it was supposed to have one arm lower than the other I "adjusted" the spring arms to be level. The trigger pull went from 2&3/4 lbs. to just over 3 lbs. Little extra pressure pushing the trigger bar up against the bottom of the slide? I never took it apart again just to adjust the spring back to factory configuration. It was a very crisp trigger pull that actually felt lighter than just over 3 lbs. anyway, so I was still pretty happy with it.
  18. Change powder. TAC is a ball powder that meters consistently and is good for .223. Same for BLC2. A couple years back my nephew and I built a bull barrel .223 AR15 for him. Nice 1 turn in 7" barrel/bolt/trigger and scope, with a free float tube and bipod, A2 fixed stock, etc., etc., etc. He bought a bunch of factory ammo (different brands/bullet weights) to see what it shot good groups with. We sighted it in at 25 yds. then walked over to the 100 yd. range to get his BDC scope set up at 100 yds. He shot several groups with the factory ammo. I handed him 5 rounds of the stuff I shoot all the time (55 grain Hornaday FMJBT, CCI primers, mixed brass, BLC2 powder). When we were done and were putting out rifles in the cases, picking up brass, etc. I asked him what his new rifle shot it's best groups with. His reply was, "That ammo you gave me." His store bought ammo was Federal, Remington, Winchester with soft point 55 grain and up bullets. The best groups were from the cheap Hornady reloads. Sometimes you just have to experiment with powder brands and charge weights to see what your rifle "likes."
  19. M1A4ME

    CZ 75 P-01 optic cut

    Haven't had a P01 done. Did get a CZ75 Compact done for a DP Pro. Done by Primary Machine a couple years ago. The big/full size red dots look really awkward on a CZ75 Slide. I'm looking to get one of the new holosuns (the small ones) and have it put on my P01 Omega in the next few months. Should be a much better fit.
  20. I hear the word on USPS, too. Ordered a laser (green/contact operated) for a 9MM Shield for my wife. Left Fox Valley, IL on Jul 16 Got to Aurora, IL on Jul 17 Got to Chicago, IL on Jul 17 Got to Richmond, VA on Jul 19 Then tracking showed it going back to Chicago, IL on Jul 19 Was scheduled for a Jul 21 delivery to me. I was looking forward to it and getting to the range with my wife today or tomorrow. On Jul 21 it was back in Elk Grove, IL I have no idea what happened or why. It does show, now, that it's on the way but will be delivered late. No kidding. I have given up on the UPS package. Will try to figure out if I can get it replaced but with UPS swearing they delivered it (somewhere) that may not happen.
  21. Got an e-mail that UPS would deliver a package on Friday sometime before 8 PM. I'm retired. I'm home all day, most days, so I stuck around Friday. It starts raining buckets around 330 PM and rains for over an hour. I get an e-mail at about 430 that the UPS driver could not deliver my package at 410 PM because there was no one at my house to sign for it. No one. Just me, my wife and my mother-in-law and I'm sitting here on the couch piddling on the laptop and looking at the window marveling at how heavy the rain is coming down. That e-mail tells me my package would be dropped off at a local UPS Access Point (small store about two miles from my house) for me to pick up. So I drive up there the next day and it's not there. I waste time trying to talk to someone at the UPS help center and spend time sparring with a computerized system and getting no where. I get an e-mail from a customer service rep who tells me that their driver did try to deliver the package and no one was home - because the driver said it, that made it so. Wasted my time responding to that one, too. I get another e-mail Sunday that my package would be delivered on Monday (yesterday). I'm retired, but that day my wife had an emergency dentist appt. at 2 PM and I drove here there. On the way back we stop at the UPS Access Point (Dollar Tree store) and the manager checks but says there is no package for me. I come home, I've got an e-mail telling met the package was dropped off - at that Dollar Tree store at 935 AM. Today, I drive back to the Dollar Tree store and (you guessed it) still no package for me (same manager as yesterday.) I come home, get back on the computer and this time I actually get to talk to a nice lady at UPS about my issues. We exchange info, she checks, she tells me the package was delivered to my house yesterday at 935 AM. I tell here I was here till 130 PM and no package was delivered to my house and even the e-mail says it was delivered to the Dollar Tree store. She checks further and tells me she needs to do some checking because something is wrong. The tracking info says the package was delivered to an UPS Access Point but the address is my street/home address, not the Dollar Tree store address in the e-mail. Their information is conflicting and confusing and she enters a claim for me to get it quickly looked into and figured out and marked it for urgent work so they will contact me either by phone or e-mail within the hour. Well, been 3 hrs. now. No phone calls. No new e-mails. I'm beginning to think I'm not going to see that package. The driver(s) are either confused what they did with it or not being honest about what happened to it. And there isn't a darn thing I can do about it to aggravate UPS as badly as they've aggravated me for the last few days.
  22. Disassemble, use cloth/cottonballs, something lint free and alcohol to remove the oil (might take a couple repetitions). Then, when it's dry, apply a coat of car wax (I've been using Nufinish, since I had some for the brass polisher) and buff off when dry (inside and outside and the bases if metal). Then apply a second coat of wax and buff off when dry. Lightly oil the spring and put it back together. It will load/feed out slicker. It will be more protected from the salt/sweat from your hands. It will be resistant to collecting dust/lint/dirt. A dry paper towel wiped around on it will make is shine like a newly oiled magazine (or newly waxed) easily and quickly when your done with it for the day.
  23. CZ mags are made by Mecgar for CZ. Mecgar makes mags. for so many other handgun manufacturers that they are "everywhere."
  24. Not 1911's but CZ has been making the P01 (aluminum frame 9MM) for almost 20 years. Never heard much about excessive frame wear or frame cracking. People love them. They also make a PCR (CZ75BD type compact with an aluminum frame, also in 9MM). Again, don't see complaints about frame issues with those either. Not saying you should buy a CZ 9MM, saying there are aluminum framed/steel slide pistols that have been made/sold/used for years with no excessive wear complaints. Keep it clean/lubed and it should keep running if it was designed/built correctly.
  25. P07 .40 Spent several years looking for something that was reliable and accurate. After several popular pistols I saw a DUTY P07 in .40 and bought it. Darn thing outshoots every previous center fire pistol I own (five or six different brands in different calibers). The P07 is as reliable as the best of those and more reliable than some of them. IWB on the right side for the pistol and IWB on the left side for the spare magazine. I have a P01 9MM that does pretty well on paper as well. It is also reliable. I recently bought an M&P Compact in .45 acp that shows lots of promise. Makes the other 3 M&Ps look pretty bad (they never looked good to start with). If it proves good enough to warrant an RMR installation then I would carry it with confidence.
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