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Found 58 results

  1. So in talking with a sponsored precision rifle shooter, he mentioned that he anneals his lapua brass and in doing so he no longer has a need to trim to length, and therefore loads ALL of his precision rifle ammo on his Dillon Progressive. Is anyone else doing this? Can someone explain the part of the annealing process that causes trimming not be needed anymore. i have decent understanding of annealing- having not done it but read many forums on it. But none mention it removing or reducing the frequency of trimming. I would love to not have to trim my rifle brass. It Would make my Dillon much more useful for precision rifle brass.
  2. I just moved my 9mm from my 650 to my 1050. In my 650 I loaded 9mm no problemo. Same gear on my 1050-problem About 1 in every 70 cases has the primer not get knocked out, Then the swagger smashes it back up into the case. Wasn't so bad at first but getting progressively worse. I called Dillon and talked with the tech, who surprisingly wasn't that helpful. his solution was that 'its a known issue, just put the die as low as you can and deal with it.' It is a factory Dillon decapping die. I've tried any combination of die as low as possible, die backed off a little, shellplate tight, shellplate loose etc. Nothing seems to change the problem. I have noticed that when this happens, the primer is barely hanging onto the shell, almost as if the it is BARELY not knocking it out, or the primer is stuck on the end of the pin and is getting sucked back up when. Pictures attached: How far the primer is out of the pocket after the case goes in the die, and 2 the primer getting wrecked by the swagger. Any advice? longer decapping pin?
  3. Hey guys, my brand new swager doesn't work! I tried both the large and small swaging rods and of course the 30 cal locator rod, but the Lake City .308 once-fired sparkly clean military brass doesn't have its primer pocket reamed at all! The ridge is still there and primers do not seat after multiple swagings with both rods. The rod is going the full stroke, it is properly adjusted and so is the little spacer block. It is also set screwed in place and adjusted for the lake city stuff. What's the deal?! I've looked everywhere, and posting here is my last resort. What idiot oversight am I making? Thanks guys.
  4. I have a Dillon case feeder (newish model with the blue case deflector) that I have added Immortobot upgrade motor ( https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=315 ) into to keep up with my roll sizer ( http://www.ipscteam.ch/shop/case-roller/ ). When running the case feeder at faster speeds I was having trouble with cases jamming to the deflector. Friend of mine designed a 3D-part that fixed the jamming with a piece of iron wire. Available at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3667370 Please remember to support our local producers of cheap beer by clicking "Tip the designer" in Thingiverse in case you decide to 3D print this and it helps solve issue on your casefeeder. Also note that this has been tested with 9mm brass on "small pistol" casefeeder plate only.
  5. Is their a way to speed up the case feeder? Been searching around but have not seen mich
  6. Has anyone tried removing one of these older powder measure hoppers and replace it with the new style with the two screws holding it in place? Are the two springs necessary for the powderbar return?
  7. [TL/DR: table at bottom] I just installed the last two accessories on my Dillon 650 and I think I’m pretty much good to go after 6 months of reloading. This forum was very helpful for me as a new reloaded so I thought I’d share this info for people trying to get into it....just saw one such inquiry minutes ago. This list is grouped by level of need and then most to least expensive...highly subjective I know. It’s just one man’s opinion! If you buy the green items labeled “Base Machine” you can load ammunition if you acquire components (powder, primers and brass). It might be slow going and unsafe but you could make a round of ammunition. I would call the blue additions “necessities” either for safety or logistical reasons. Yelow are highly recommended “priority upgrades” that we can debate & add to here. Orange entires are creature comforts and case prep items to re-use brass and save more money. Also for those suffering from sticker shock, the “rounds to cover” is a hypothetical payback assuming you can save about $.115 per round. I load 40, so YMMV. Tell your wife you will reload an obscure cartridge and save 70% per round.
  8. I moved up to a 650 from a SDB a few months ago. Loaded 45ACP first with no major issues (1200 rounds). I've recently changed it to small primers and set up a tool head for 9mm with Dillon dies. I did use the primer alignment tool. First problem is the priming stage. The tab that holds the case in position will not stay tight against the case. I align it and tighten it up and 15-20 rounds later I'm having to tap SOME of the cases to get the primer to seat. I load slow so that is not a big issue, just nagging. Should I use Loctite? Second problem is more troublesome. I just ran 250 rounds. Mixed cases (none military or with the step inside) 4.6gr AA #5 and my own cast 128gr bullets (sized .356). They are a TC design with a bevel base lubed with Carnauba Red. Out of 250 I have 17 that fail to go in the case gauge. Of those 17 only one passed the plunk test in my Shield barrel and none passed in my 9mm 3" EMP. I've tried to vary the COAL with no improvement. The failed rounds were not all 1 brand of case. I need some help please. I did not have this problem with my 9mm loads in my SDB. Thanks!! Paul
  9. Looking for any comments or suggestions regarding the powder drop on the Dillion 650. I was just recently able to chrono my .40 reloads and not only noticed I was only making an average of 161 PF, but that my deviations were around 40-50 ft/sec. I had a few rounds make major and several more that did not. My concern is the deviations. My powder drop seems to drop a fairly consistent charge, however I have noticed a fluctuation in the powder safety measure thats only there to show an under/over charge situation. That little notch seems to occasionally move on some charges ever so slightly. By that I mean, not all powder charges seem to be consistent with that safety bar that goes into the filled case. If i weigh every one the deviation in gr seems to be only by .1gr occasionally. I've polished the powder bar and cleaned the funnel a few times which hasn't made any noticeable difference. I won't post my load data (per the rules), however it is the most common load for 180gr .40 using N320. I'm struggling to make major and consistent deviations right now.
  10. I have a Dillon Square Deal and primarily load 40 S&W. Have had for about 1 year and loaded around 12,000 rounds. During that time I have broken 2 shell plate bolts. Is this a common problem with Dillon SD? Any advise on how to prevent or what might me going on?
  11. I haven’t seen anyone do this before. So. Here’s how I fit all of my reloading gear into the guest room closet: I have been loading in the garage on a spacious workbench for ten years. I do a lot of welding and fab work so grinding dust and clutter and the humidity of a southern climate have always been concerns. I decided to move my 650 / bulletfeeder / all the upgrades setup into the house. I built a very solid but ultra light and compact frame from 1” square tubing and a leftover section of angle iron. Two solidly braced legs and two 3” screws lagging it into the wall studs. Ford blue engine paint matches the Dillon halfway decently (it’s a shade darker) and a red oak stairway plank from Home Depot got coated in polyurethane as the tabletop. My old bench was six legs made with 4x4 lumber and long drywall screws and is not nearly as solid as this. Nothing flinches if you hang off the handle anymore: the old bench had some flex I didn’t notice until now. Additionally I screwed a power strip to the wall next to the door that powers up my lighting and everything else with one flick. Added cheap compact shelving from HD that suited my space. Added wall storage for grip trainers and my USPSA belt rigs. A 24” LED light provides a shocking amount of light in such a small, reflective space. Table is 20” x 18” and the top is 36” from the floor. I’d prefer it to be 2” higher for my 6 foot tall height... but this gives me six inches between the top of the ceiling and the casefeeder. I leave it permanently full now: I can walk in and just resume pulling the handle at any time. I’m trying to load ~50 rounds a day, which is 3-5 minutes of work work with the bulletfeeder added... so I’m never in need of ammo before a match. Ford Blue engine paint from Autozone: Welded up and primed painted: Lagged into two wall studs: Table top installed, no organization on the shelves: Press freshly bolted down. Cords and unorganized mess: Cabled all the cords together neatly, starting to figure out where I want to store things: Finished. Aerosols and such on the door. Belts hung on the wall. A cleaner cardboard box to store tumbled brass on the floor, and the primer catcher kit bolted on to route spent primers into my trash bucket under the bench:
  12. I'm thinking I'd like to try a powder baffle to help improve the consistency of my Dillon 650 over the course of a reloading session. Any thoughts on the Uniquetek baffle vs the Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle? Uniquetek Precision Powder Baffle: Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle:
  13. I have a Dillon Square Deal and primarily load 40 S&W. Have had for about 1 year and loaded around 12,000 rounds. During that time I have broken 2 shell plate bolts. Is this a common problem with Dillon SD? Any advice on how to prevent or what might me going on?
  14. Has anyone used those third-party toolheads for Dillon XL650? A friend from the range moved to a 1050 and has several of these toolheads in colors, he offered them at a very good price, 2 X $15 or 3 X $20, I want to grab them. The brands are JoferUSA and EZReloading. Any comment?
  15. So my wife said she was fine with me reloading. I’m about half way through studying how to set up. Normally would dig in and take months researching myself but I need to get this thing bought before she hears what reloading entails or what it costs! -Shoot limited but may go to open one day -So 9, 40 are primary objectives. Maybe 45 and 223 as well. -I prefer to “buy once cry once” -Reloading in garage -Shoot two matches a month and practice. So probably on lower side of round count for this site. Target System and expected costs XL 650- $580 Die set 9mm- $60 Strong mount- $45 Scale- $100 digital or lever? Handbook- $25 Calipers- $30 Flip tray- $30 Case loader - $580 with one extra cal. Worth it? Buy at Double Alpha? Media tumbler- $50 recommendations? Inputs Bullets Primers Brass Powder Case lube Thoughts on where to buy the system and components? Am I missing anything? Making a common pitfall? Are there Mega Black Friday sales worth waiting for? Thanks!
  16. I just got a new swage pin after reading the other Dillon Super Swage thread. The problem I have now is I am having an issue with some brass and getting an uneven depth on the primer pocket. I can tell there will be an issue by the way the brass sits on the receiving pin. It seems like there might be some extra metal around the flash hole on the inside of the case. I am not able to see well enough inside the case to confirm and have not cut one in half as of yet. Has anyone else seen this issue? The pictures below show a primer pocket gauge. The other thing about the depth is that it seems like the swage is sometimes pushing the primer pocket to deeper on one side. I am not sure id that is an issue with it not being centered or if that is another issue with the extra metal near the primer pocket.
  17. Has anyone had issues with the slow option on their case feeder? My slow toggle is not work well but the fast is working fine but seems to jam with 9mm cases. If anyone has seen this and has ideas or has fixed it, let me know.
  18. Got my Dillon 1050 set up just as I like it. Starting loading rounds and loaded about a thousand rounds and then on the downstroke the the press stopped. Can't figure out what is blocking it from going all the way down. It is not the case feeder as I can pull the side lever and actuate it. I used compressed air on the mechanism in case something like a primer was stuck. It is also very consistent distance from the plate that it stops. Any suggestions are welcome, I really do not want to take it apart after all the time I spent putting it together and send it back to Dillon to fix. The attached picture is the stopping point.
  19. I got tired of just my sticking loaded pickup tubes in a jar, bumping the jar (actually an empty Jif peanut butter jar), having them fall out, etc. So, started thinking about how I could fix this issue. Went to BassPro, looking for the small rubber things that hold fishing rods at the ends of the rods - struck out, went to archery department, looking for quiver parts - struck out again. Then I remembered that I had some old quiver parts at home in a junk drawer. So, a piece of 1" wide x 1/8" thick aluminum flat bar, a small piece of western red cedar, 5 small countersunk screws, 45 minutes in the 110 degree shop, and this is what I came up with. Holds them absolutely securely now. All I have to do is mount it to my bench.
  20. Does anyone know which side of the seat die insert is best for seating JHPs? I'm using the Dillon carbide pistol die set which has a round or semi-wad cutter seating insert. Thanks.
  21. I came across this from a post in another thread about their primer filler. holy cow!! talk about the Ferrari of auto drives. It makes the mk7 look basic. Custom bullet feeder (modified mbf), everything power actuated. Full auto primer collator and feeder. Id hate to know the cost!
  22. I just purchased a STI Edge 40 S&W Competition Ready Pistol from Dawson. I would like to reload for USPSA Limited division and would prefer to not reinvent the wheel. What have others found to be an optimum reload for competition and accuracy? I would be interested to know what people are shooting in terms of bullet weight/brand/typd, powder mfg/type/weight, C.O.L. etc.) Thanks to everyone in advance for your advice.
  23. I have the opportunity to purchase a Dillon Square Deal B brand new with 9mm caliber set, and a 40 s&w conversion (no new powder charge setup) I have ZERO experience with this setup or reloading in general. The price is under $400 for everything, What I'm asking is, is the SDB worth even buying? Is it worth saving up for a 650? I would only be loading 9 and 40. any help would be awesome!! forgot to mention, its the SDB with spare parts kit, bullet tray, strongmount, tool holder with wrenches, and 4 small pickup tubes. everything is new in the box never even setup. Item Price Quantity Total Dillon Square Deal B (Dillon SDB) Options: Caliber Type: 9mm Price: $389.95 Qty: Remove Total: $389.95 SDB Spare Parts Kit (20778) Price: $21.95 Qty: Remove Total: $21.95 Dillon Strong Mounts Square Deal Mount (22223) Price: $64.95 Qty: Remove Total: $64.95 Dillon Aluminum Bullet Tray-for Square Deal, RL550 & XL650 (22214) Price: $41.95 Qty: Remove Total: $41.95 Square Deal B toolholder with Wrench Set (19441) Price: $26.95 Qty: Remove Total: $26.95 Dillon 4 Small pick up tubes (20049) Price: $23.95 Qty: Remove Total: $23.95 Dillon SDB Caliber Conversion Kit (Dillon SDB Calib) Options: Caliber: .40 S&W Price: $87.95 Qty: Remove Total: $87.95 Square Deal 'B' Toolhead (20113) Price: $31.95 Qty: Remove Total: $31.95 Shipping Options Zip Code Rates apply to the United States. Shipping Provide ZIP Code Note: 2nd Day Air is only delivered Monday - Friday. Order Summary Sub Total: $689.60 Shipping: $0.00 Total: $689.60
  24. I am planning to get a case feeder (at last) for my Dillon XL650! I load 9mm and .40, and after some research, I can't figure out which size case feeder to get, the one with the large or small pistol plate. I have found a number of people that claim they were told to get both for my exact situation. (intended calibers of use) I am hoping I can get enough responses of which size case feeder to get and your explanation of how well it works for each caliber, that I can make a confident decision on my purchase. My previous post started this discussion, but never really got me to a solid answer, people were claiming both work, but I want to know which works best...
  25. First off, I have been reading everything I can lately regarding the 650. I feel like I have the blue itch. Lately it seems like I have spent more time tweaking a machine than loading. Currently I am loading on a Hornady LnL without case feeder, but I do have the bullet feeder tubes. I bought it 2 years ago after a ton of research. Mostly due to caliber conversion ease and being relatively new to loading. The internet pushed me that direction. Fast forward, I feel like I could have made a better choice. Now I shoot just production, at about 1k+ a month. All other loading is done on a single stage for revolvers. The volume on those is only 1500 a year. And I rarely shoot rifle anymore. So here is where I am. I'd love some real world input on time savings. Especially if anyone has used or owned both machines. I know its hard not to be biased sometimes. My idea is I can go down to the basement with a free hour and turn out 400+ rounds without having to tweak and adjust. Turnkey basically. Now understanding anything mechanical can fail and need maintenance will the 650 do this? And what in your honest opinions would you consider the drawbacks or cons of the 650?
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