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Found 36 results

  1. Title kind of states it. I bought a used 1050 for 45acp that came with two Mr. Bullet mini-feeder tubes. It didn't come with the die. I'm trying to identify if it came with the Mr. Bullet powder funnel. I'm debating whether to track down any missing parts for the mini-feeder or 'splurge' on the non-pro feeder(~$500)
  2. As our 1050s aged we noticed it was harder and harder to get consistent primer seating depth. We took a cue from out Ammoload and Camdex machines and developed a primer hold down for the 1050. This is very similar to the hold down in the swaging station on the 1050. It will accommodate 380, 9mm, 40 and 45. Installation and adjustment is very simple. Please see the video below for instruction. Can be used in the RL 1050 as well with modification to the diameter of the die. It will need to be turned down about .020" to work in the RL1050. Pricing is $17.50 shipped and can be purchased from our website. Click to purchase from our website.
  3. I know some of you with automated 1050s (AmmoBot, Mark7, etc) pre-process (decap & resize, not cleaning) your brass before reloading. I can see the benefits, in that if it helps to ensure a trouble-free reloading session, it might be worth it. I've had a couple of times when the decapping pin was not quite tight enough, and this caused a real mess, and is a PITA to clean up. I guess this alone might be worth it, I just hate handling brass more than I have to. Maybe after the learning curve flattens out, things will be better. Have you found it worthwhile? or not? EDIT: My question is primarily for pistol brass, especially 9mm.
  4. New to me 1050 for 45acp decided to blow up the primer tube before I got 300 rounds in Short: What will I need to fix/replace? Primer magazine(22031) tube for sure. Primer station retain tab(12930) also for use. Primer slide assembly(20318) top has the start of a 'pile' of stuff... can I sand it down? Or do I need to replace? Other things to look at? Longer: First 100 rounds went smooth but I was only doing case setup(belling mouth) Second 100 rounds went fairly smooth except last round ended up with a screwed up primer. Unsure if it didn't seat fully, turned, or something else. Third 50 rounds ended up with about 5 rounds or so with same primer issue above then blew up the primer rod.
  5. I called Dillon about this, but they were not able to address my issue. I am not able to install the Dillon Powder Check (Stock Number: 21044) on the 1050 properly (station 6) - I know this has to be an operator error. I just can't figure it out and I hope that someone here can help. The black rod on the powder check does not contact the base (the are that the shell holder sits in). Can someone help (pictures would be perfect) Thank you in advance.
  6. I have a Super 1050 that I want to convert from .40s&w to 9mm... and most likely back again once in a while... so I'd like to make it as quick to change between .40 and 9mm as possible. It seems like the best way to go is with the Dillon Quick-Change toolhead conversion and the Dillon 9mm Parabellum caliber conversion kit... They both use the same size primers, so that should be good to go... anything else I'm missing?
  7. Hi everyone, Fairly new to the 1050 (8 months) and came across a new video from the Mark7 guys on reloading using a 1050. I found they way they setup their dies to be interesting. In the video link below a standard case mouth expanding die is used in station 2, replacing the OEM swage case holder rod setup. The reason for this is explained as making the belling of the case mouth easier for the Mr. Bullet Feeder case mouth expander and eliminating that popping sound that people often note when using a powder funnel case mouth expander. I saw this and thought why have I not thought of this before. Seems a better way to use this station and also allows the use of a Mr. Bullet feeder, plus a separate seating and crimp die. Going to try this setup this weekend to see how it works. Not sure how well known this hack is... but thought it would good to share.. Also the 27min video watching dual Mark7's running has some good drool factor...
  8. How far back and forth should a small powder bar move? How much friction should be between the powder bar and the spacer/housing?
  9. Got my Dillon 1050 set up just as I like it. Starting loading rounds and loaded about a thousand rounds and then on the downstroke the the press stopped. Can't figure out what is blocking it from going all the way down. It is not the case feeder as I can pull the side lever and actuate it. I used compressed air on the mechanism in case something like a primer was stuck. It is also very consistent distance from the plate that it stops. Any suggestions are welcome, I really do not want to take it apart after all the time I spent putting it together and send it back to Dillon to fix. The attached picture is the stopping point.
  10. I recently purchased a 1050 set up for 40 S&W. I also bought a Mr. Bulletfeeder set up in 9mm as I had a .40 on my 650. I moved the .40 plate and the dropper assembly from the 650 to the 1050. Dropper assembly works perfectly, drops a single bullet and places it in the case mouth without issues. However, the Mr. Bulletfeeder with the .40 plate is NOT flipping the bullets at all if they are nose down. I am at a loss, I even transferred the same cardboard inserts from the 650's bulletfeeder thinking that might be it. Called DAA tech support, but they are out today. Any suggestions are welcome. I played with the angle of the Mr. Bulletfeeder but have not really seen a change. I don't think there were any parts on the Mr. Bulletfeeder assembly itself other than the plate I needed to move.
  11. Ok, so I pull the handle down and everything does as it should, awesome. As I lift the handle to advance everything on my 1050 I notice that the part of the bell crank the red line is drawn to will sometimes hit the edge where the yellow line is drawn to. There will be just the slightest pause and then the powder bar returns to full closed. it doesn't happen all the time. it is intermittent. the fail safe rod has a lot of spring tension (it's maxed out in how far it can pull the arm down as you see in the pic) and it never fails to close, just sometimes a slight pause on the way to doing so. sometimes with a faint but audible click noise. the through bolt holding the bell crank is tight the mr bullet feeder dropper does not touch the powder measure anywhere. the picture was taken with the press "at rest" i have a new bell crank spring but it doesn't match the type i have on my older machine in how it hooks onto the tab at the top. mind hooks around that small tab. the new spring i have looks like it should go in a hole there. so, is this little bit of touching every once in a while normal or something that needs to be addressed?
  12. I've always seated and crimped pistol in 2 stations using the lee FCD on my 1050. Now that i have a mr bullet feeder, i'm thinking about giving a hornady seat/crimp combo die i have laying around a try so i can retain my powder check die. I've never used a combo seat/crimp die, how are they? I'm reloading mixed head stamp brass. Or am i better off using 2 stations and losing the powder check die? I was thinking about rigging up one of those cameras i see people use.
  13. I just picked up an EGA primer hold down die and have run about 2K rounds with it installed and have had zero issues with it. Hard to see how it could cause a primer detonation if properly set up but "sh...t" does happen at times. Curious to know/hear from any of you that have been using the EGA primer hold down die in their 1050's as to if they have ever experienced a primer detonation while using the die. If so, what happened and what was the damage, if any? I like the die and will continue to use it, but its always good to hear from others that have more experience using the die than I do at this point in time. thanks in advance.
  14. I came across this from a post in another thread about their primer filler. holy cow!! talk about the Ferrari of auto drives. It makes the mk7 look basic. Custom bullet feeder (modified mbf), everything power actuated. Full auto primer collator and feeder. Id hate to know the cost!
  15. Would like input from anyone with confident expertise on how deep the swage rod should be on the 1050. I cut a few cases (these were purportedly surplus mil brass with crimped primer pockets but I've found most in this lot actually were not crimped...I deliberately bought them from on online vendor so I could use them to set up my swaging station properly. Oh well. The first few pics are with swage rod set a bit low, the last 2 are with it set a bit deeper. Which is correct/best, or what change do you recommend? <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1182.photobucket.com/user/darkrayz1/embed/slideshow/"></iframe> Thanks Quirk
  16. Continuing trials and tribulations of getting a new 1050 (with AmmoBot) to run. Last night I broke 3 decapping pins because brass gets on top of the shell plate, and gets smushed by the decapping pin/sizing die. Also aggravating is the shuttle will occasionally hang up and not extend out to feed a case into the shell plate. MeatPuppet was kind enough to answer a few questions, and suggest I get the SPR Services case feed fix plate, which is on the way. Hopefully this will help. In the mean time, I took a closer look as to why the shuttle was hanging up. It appears the case sitting on top of the shuttle hangs up on a slight angle on the shuttle. This angle has an edge sharp enough that a case can hang on it. In the first pic you can see the shiny spot where the cases have been riding the shuttle, as well as the horizontal angle. I took a jewelers file to smooth out the angle so it is more of a radius, and polish it up some. That seemed to help a lot. Tonight I will polish it some more, as my dremel options were limited and will be picking up more bits. If the problem still exits, next will be the Level 10 Derlin casefeed plunger .
  17. Yo Brethren - I'm new to the Super 1050, but have had it apart for cleaning and lubing several times - so by no means an expert, but familiar with its components. I bought it off this forum in near new condition, several months ago. It was setup for 9 mm but I bought a toolhead and set it up for processing 5.56 and banged out about 3k cases. I reinstalled the 9 mm toolhead to load, but it wouldn't feed primers without me manually fiddling with the slide actuating lever (if it was full rearward, I'd pull it forward and a primer would usually fall into the primer slide cup). I've scoured this forum and talked to Dillon today. Dillon offered suggestions but I was at work so could not be in front of the press during the conversation. This is as far as I've gotten: if I cycle the press very slowly, and I mean very slow, as the primer slide slides back to pick up the next primer, it will feed about 100% (10 for 10 primers tested). If I cycle the press even close to a normal speed, it will not catch the new primer. This is everything I've tried to this point: ensured magazine fill cap is seated but not tight ensured blue tip in good condition (fed primers down it and they flowed out smoothly). I even put a new cap on and tested it. It worked the same. ensured the primer slide was smooth, with no obstructions/friction, and that it slides to the primer slide stop. My primer slide has the brass roller. I polished the cup where the primer seats in the slide and manually cycled the slide, without the primer arm/cam assembly installed to ensure primers fell into the cup, and it worked fine (10 primers tested). re-installed the primer arm/cam assembly, ensured it was a close to parallel to press as possible and that it was not binding. The primer slide passes under and past the fill tube to the rear of the press when the back of the slide contacts the stop (over-travel, but I believe this is normal. I tried it again with a .45 ACP case on the follower but no difference. For more weight, i put a 147 grain, ACME bullet under the .45 case, but the extra weight did not help. Prior to the polishing but after some adjusting, the primers would occasionally fall out the bottom. I can't figure out how this happens. After polishing and more adjusting, the primers feed if I cycle very very slowly. If I try to cycle the press at a normal speed, it won't feed primers but will occasionally shoot one forward and out of the top, over the shell plate - and it comes out . I can't figure out how this is happening either. The channel for the primer slide is smooth and there is no slop for the slide to move side to side - at least that I can tell. This about covers it. I'v been playing with this every night for the past week and am out of ideas. Thanks in advance for your input.
  18. I have two 1050s (one RL and one Super), both of which will, from time to time, give a "whack" on the very end of the upstroke, following which powder will be ejected from pistol brass in particular. This is when the charged cartridge - sans bullet - is in the position following the powder charge postition. For the life of me I can't figure out what makes this happen. It's a pretty forcefull impact of .. well, something or another, and powder can be spilled pretty much all over the cartridge plate. I have dismantled, cleaned, etc. No luck. I don't think it's the plate indexing arm, which has a spring tensioned tab on it. The spring isn't particularly powerful, and the tab isn't heavy enough to make such an impact. Ideas, anyone? Siphon
  19. I finally setup my S1050. Everything seems OK with one exception. I am having inconsistent OAL readings. During my initial test rounds, I was using random range brass (mixed head stamps). After reading a couple of threads, I decided to sort my brass by head stamps and give that a try. I tried a few things and was still getting inconsistent OALs, so I decided to order the Redding Competition Pro Micrometer seating die. After setting up the Redding die, I am getting a more consistent reading, but I have noticed a two scenarios: 1) When I adjust OAL for a single round, I can get a perfect reading (Say 1.1350) most of the time. However, when I start loading rounds (and the shell-plate is full) my OAL have a variation. It will be either shorter or longer (Sorry I don't recall which one exactly). 2) If I try to adjust the seating die with shell-plate full, it seems to take a long time (and rounds) before I can get one accurate OAL. And if I remove a case or two (To by-pass primer station) the reading will be off again. I believe my process / approach could be incorrect? What am I doing wrong? Is my shell plate too loose? (Press is brand new). The closest I can get with a shell plate full is a .002 variation (Either short or long). I will appreciate any input/suggestions on this.
  20. I have a 1050 set up for 9x21 and loved it. I really don't want to monkey with it. I have a 550 that I COULD roll over to .40 but what's the fun in that? After seen the price of a 650xl vs. the 1050 ( THE PRICE of the 1050 HAS GONE WAY UP, since the last time I bought a press) I think maybe a 650XL with the case feeder and the Mr. Bullet feeder might be faster and easier to load on than the 1050... Thoughts?
  21. I had a primer detonation loading this morning that detonated all 99 in the primer magazine. This occurred towards the bottom of the down stroke on the second case to be loaded. What are the various causes of primer blow ups so I do not do this again? I am ok, I was wearing safety glasses while reloading as usual. Loud boom, flash of orange, parts flying everywhere. Never having had this happen before, or to any of my reloading friends, but doing a little online looking it seems that the #1 reason is operator error. Since I'm not sure of what happened, please tell me the various ways this normally happens to I can better self-monitor. Thank you.
  22. I've read some of this thread. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169411&hl=1050%20primer&page=3 but didn't want to revive a zombie thread. Not sure if I am having the same issue or not. Of course today I did snap the swag rod, but I've had this problem from day 1 when I got the press with the primer system. Initially it was not priming 1-2 cases per 100, and would drop the primer on the bench. I later solved that issue I think by replacing the rubber piece on the primer slide. Now my problem has been the smashed primers into the pockets as seen below Is this all being cause by not swaging enough? Once I upped the swag rod a bit more, that is when it snapped.. It is a little frustrating since I bought the 1050 when I got pissed at my hornady LNL having priming problems and hoped for this to solve everything.
  23. I bought this 1050 new in 2007 and loaded 9 major for a few years with no issues other than the occasional expected primer bobbles and a somewhat sticky case feed slide. After a move and the machine sitting in a box for a few years I've been reading up on it in the forums before I set it up again. Here on BE I found that the case feed cam has been redesigned with a different profile for a smoother feed and that the primer station retaining tab had been changed from white to see-through and should be available now. Pretty sure I read both items had been confirmed by whoever answers for Dillon on this forum. I just got off the phone with Lee from Dillon and he unequivocally denied that either of these changes had been made or were going to be made. I was trying to order them to reduce future problems but.... What gives?
  24. The index ball (part #13508) on my Super 1050 has gotten gunked up from powder spills. I can push the ball down, but don’t know how to remove the ball and the index ball spring (part #13525) for cleaning Any tips/ideas? Thanks a bunch in advance!
  25. I have a problem with primers sticking in the bottom of the case on my 1050... See picture above. If I don't catch them, they will go into the swager and primer stages and cause a jam. The jams are a concern, but I am mostly concerned about setting off a primer. I'm using a standard Lee die and have lengthened the decapping pin as far as it will go. I'm not sure what could be causing the problem. If I grab one of the stuck primers with a needle nose pliers, it comes right off. I don't use case lube, but am thinking about trying it... Could that help?
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