BeerBaron

Easiest and cheapest solution for me was also lee dies. I love being able to adjust them without undoing the lock ring.

Agreed.

Agree with that but in this case something else is going on. I was suggesting he remove as many variables as he can to start with. That's all.

That eckla cart looks to use identical tires to the daa cart! btw this thread jinxed me! 2 freakin years with nice full daa cart tyres. Pulled it out last week and it felt sluggish..... yep 2 flat tires! Sonofabitch!! hopefully when I gas them up (which I remember was a bastard) they will stay up another 2 years...

hang on? what spring on the slide? first thing. remove the slide. it has nothing to do with the safety. remove the plunger and plunger spring, remove sear and hammer and disconnector and then try and fit the safety. this is the first test. i.e. does it fit through the 2 frame holes. The next step is re-assemble the trigger parts and see if you need to fit the lug on the safety so it can engage the sear (i.e. do it's job as a safety). I'm not sure what you mean about the slide spring and I'm not sure why cerakoting the slide would affect the safety fit? is this a 1911?

I currently have 2 RTS2. 3,000 rounds one one and sub 1,000 on the other so not much testing. but so far I love them. easy and precise to zero. easy to change battery. very nice, round, bright dot. comes in 3, 6 or 8 MOA (I like the 8) and small and light, The DPP looks great but lack of a 6 or 8 Moa dot option is a deal breaker for me.

What happened to: "I would put my money on a GM with a big stick and irons in a 10 stage match over the same GM with 10 rounds mags and a dot. That is a no brainer." Now you're saying it's even or close. I thought it was a no brainer?

check the grip. especially the grip screws. also check the mount and mount screws as suggested. check the grip screws at the trigger guard area too. check that the comp is still tight on the barrel and has not bent or moved.

my guess is lack of clearance between comp and slide killed it. that is purely a guess though based on the location of the crack and how early in it's life it cracked. I hope they make it right and make it right quickly...

yes the diodes do wear out and eventually need replacing. easy way to check is buy or borrow a diode and see if that fixes it. if not send it back to cmore for repair.

I would go to Cajun gun works and buy their recoil spring pack. From memory 10 or 11lb was what I settled on. For the main spring their 8.5lb combined with their extended firing pin and light firing pin spring will light off federal. The 11lb main spring with the same extended fp and light fp spring will light off factory too.

I had it backwards. the 357/303 is the one you want (it's the 1.55v silver oxide battery). the A76/LR44 is the cheaper 1.5v version. Two of the 1.55v stacked together give a nice boost over a regular 3v (that quite often don't measure a true 3v even new out of the packet).

hmm, mine is nice and tight. I guess that's one benefit of using the 360 cutter and then walking it over a little at a time to widen the cut. We got a very tight, but smooth fit. I have 2 CK's now with the same racker and one is very tight (quite hard to remove the racker) and the other is about the same as my SV. I'm guessing a small variance in the dovetail cutters is responsible for that.

the old polymer SV grips ARE sti grips just with the STI logo removed and SV emblems stuck on (look in the back and you'll see 'strayer Tripp international' written over and over down where the MSH goes (under the sear spring). it could just be a gap because basically all the 2011s are designed to run some kind of mag well.

turbor has been discontinued so you may find a run out bargain. I seem to remember someone posted recently they picked up a new one for around $2K as a run out deal.

there are different shapes of JHP. hornady HAP and Zero's are like a conical JHP. some others (MG perhaps?) are more like a round nose JHP. If you have feeding issues with the conical shaped JHP's try the RN shaped ones.

Sweet rig. Love the cuts and the colour. Is it island barrel or regular barrel? Hard to tell from the pics.

The best ones are the 1.55v (a76 I think?) stacked together. They give a noticeable boost in brightness.

I can't see a problem using an ar pistol without a front hand guard and grip is using the pistol grip and weak hand on the magwell. The issue sue is the holster will be ridiculous and shooting a rifle without a stock might be fun but dudes with 'normal' pistols will be smoking you. Especially on stage and shoot stuff/classifiers. Imagine trying to run a quick el prez with your 4lb hand rifle...

The problem is from time to time there are win primers with out of spec cups that are not quite round. These oval cups cause issues in primer feeders and on the press. I now just use fed and cannot remember the last time I had a primer issue (spp and srp).

How did it turn out?

Eric means is the slide touching the rear of the comp at the top and therefore pushing it down a little. Make sure there's clearance between comp and slide when it's in battery.

Two uppers on one frame isn't always ideal. You want the frame and slide to fit together nicely and with 2 slides you may get some uneven wear. Plenty of people do it with success but I agree a second gun is the better option for not much extra $.

Both locking screws are on the right. Both take Allen keys (different sizes). Windage is also on the right (screw driver) and elevation on top (also screw driver).

ATF rules have zero to do with uspsa divisional rules...