RiggerJJ

The only way primers can be consistent is when they are all fully seated. There is no "consistent depth", only seated or not. Once a primer bottoms out, it's there. There is nothing else to adjust. A hand primer can achieve this, or a 650, or a 1050, or any other seater. As long as the side walls of the primer hit the bottom of the pocket, it's seated. jj

Exactly, get the sight off the handguard or accuracy will suffer because the barrel will move inside the handguard. You can keep your present handguard and gas block, just mount a sight block as far forward as possible...

How much you need processed?

Really??? Been running mine for years without the rubber tube on the slide no problems. I suspect those who tend to badmouth the press are either incapable or unwilling to adjust things until they work properly. Also, try another batch of primers, the biggest problems I have run into have been related to the primer, not the press... jj

Agreed. The primer system on a 650 is the ultimate hand priming system; you can feel each primer go to full depth, AND you get auto case and primer feeding! Never had a problem with any of my "highly tuned" pistols either... jj

Replace the Dillon measure with a RCBS measure and case activated linkage. No more stick powder problems... imho jj

You may want to get a gas block front sight and mount it right behind the comp. Improves sight radius and puts the sight on the barrel where you want it...handguard mounted fronts don't stay aligned with the barrel. imho jj

Nothing wrong with an 1100, they used to be the one to use. Get a long tube for it and go...

I got a spare parts kit with my 1050. Wait until it comes and then decide. jj

Yep, as wgj3 explains above, a dot (and longer mags to some extent) make the biggest difference. A dot is the FIRST item you put on a gun to "open-ize" it, be it pistol, rifle, or shotgun. There is a reason for that. Its quicker up close, and WAAAAY helpful at long distances, at intermediate distances like 10-20 yards it means the difference between hits and misses, and it really shines when moving and shooting. Don't have to align anything, just put the dot on the target and let er have it. Don't have to post up and for a group of tgts, just keep moving and wail away. Nope, a dot on a pistol IS a remarkable definite advantage over iron sights, and has no business in TO division. (I shoot an open pistols and iron sighted, no COs) for 3 gun with no power factors, the comps on a pistol are not really that big of a player, except for the added weight... jj

I disagree Mark, a dot on a pistol IS a great advantage...I shoot em both. see my post above back in August... jj

The only comment I would add is that it helps a lot if the unit is plumb, or leaning just slightly forward from plumb. Side to side needs to be right on... Great post! jj

I don't have a 550, so don't take my word for it. You may want to try the 1050 swage hold down die in the place of the M die, it may allow for more room around itself. Also, try not mounting the trimmer until after all other dies are in place...or you can try the trimmer in station 2 if you can find a universal decap that is small enough to put right next to the trimmer, which is also a size die. Good luck jj

Not sure why you would need more than two heads. On 1st head I would do a decap or full length sizer, then a trim, then a M die. On 2nd head universal decap, primer, powder, bullet. Swaging primer pockets and tumbling lube off in between heads of course... jj

agree, not an issue for me either...

Try Tac...small spherical, my go to powders for 223, also works well in 308. If you have Varget, it is more than worth getting another powder measure and adapter for use on your Dillon. I use a RCBS and the case activated linkage. Varget is my #1 308 powder for my 155 SMK Palmas. For my FMJ's under 200yds I use just about anything I can find, benchmark, 4046, etc... That's the beauty of the RCBS measure, I can use just about any powder. Also, I have been told that disassembling a Dillon powder measure and polishing all the parts, and adding a aftermarket baffle will yield similar results in consistent throws with extruded powders, but I have not tried it... jj

Actually, the Arredondo are much smoother and more consistent to use. Also near impossible to break... jmho jj

Don't bother with lock rings, just set em and foget em with the Dillon and swap out tool heads. And for what its worth, I don't normally need to be readjusted dies when swaping tool heads and shell plates. You may have to change a seat die a couple thousands for example, but that's just adjusting the top of the die not loosening and retightning the die ring. jj

Polish the tray with car wax, works good! jj

OOOOHHH! good call!

Where are you getting Benelli barrels for $200? The ones I always see are between $450 - $500... jj

Yep, loose shell plate, or loose primer system. If the shell plate is loose then there will be space for the primer to flip while its in the wheel. Don't over tighten the two Allen screws that hold the primer system, just finger snug. jj

Consistent ammo that is accurate is the best reason, along with if necks get too long the bolt won't close...Different neck tensions (which will happen if you don't trim) will greatly affect accuracy. jj

In Angus6's case above, with the lock rings I can see a caliber change taking MAYBE an extra 10-15 minutes, but a pia? Not if you are used to it... With 14 different calibers, and assuming that 1/2 of them would need two heads for bottleneck brass processing and loading, he would need 21 different heads! At $200 a peice, thats $4,200 just for toolheads! If a guy likes loading on a 1050, and loads a bunch of different calibers, using the single toolhead and lock rings is a good way to go unless money is no problem... I don't get the way some use a single machine for only one caliber or one primer size... Where do they get all that bench space? What is so hard about changing tool heads or (gasp!) changing primer size? FOR THE OP Opinion from someone using a 650 and a 1050, keep the 1050...unless you are only loading pistol ammo. Full length sizing rifle ammo on a 1050 compared to a 650...well, there is no comparison. The swage feature and the ease sizing alone makes the difference... jj

Switching primer size on the 1050 takes at most 5 minutes, and its not difficult. I don't understand all the comments about how complicated it is, cause its not... jj