MHitchcock

Pm'd

Well, Craig Forcht got back to me faster than expected and got my questions answered. Can lock or delete

Feel stupid posting this, but if there is anyone who has disassembled the bottom end of a forcht auto drive (1050 super) I just have a few questions before I dive in. When I got it (second owner) I just pumped new grease through the rotating assembly and wiped down the bottom end. Its been running like a top, but I'm taking the whole press apart for a deep cleaning. Feel free to shoot me a PM

I had this problem the last match I shot with my stock pinned/welded gen2 Mpx barrel. I just started telling the RO the position I was going to be ending the stage in (if there was more than one choice in the lay out) so he could get in close with the timer without risking a collision. The competitor-side fix is a comp on the PCC to make it louder for the timer.

No, as I said its not mounted yet. Its just from having the optic sitting still and moving my head. The dot (point of aim) moves quite a bit more than my UH-1.

Just picked one up to put on a firearm that's on the way. Messing with it in hand it seems like the POI shift is really big if the dot isn't perfectly centered. Much worse than the UH-1 I have on my other PCC. I know it shouldn't make a difference with a cheek weld, but just wondering if anyone else has had issues with weak side stages etc. They seem to be super popular, so I'm guessing it can't be that big of a deal.

For the GLS holsters, people are reporting that the GLS 579 works for the Shadow 2. That's what I have on order currently for the same application.

Sorry for partial thread steal. But do you guys have a preferred supplier for the extra power extractor springs? Was shooting my shadow 2 as a second gun at a super classifier and had FTE jams on last 3 stages >.<

LOL he obviously wasn't being serious

Not even close a world record. People have shot groups at 200 yards free-hand (one handed) with fixed iron sights that have been less than the size of the A zone on a USPSA target.

I also found them here - http://www.tacticallife.net/Skeletonized-Billet-Aluminum-AR-15-Grip-Blue-Cerakote-_p_386.html

Would someone be able to PM me the best way to get a hold of Rick? I may pick one of these up.

Out of curiosity, what caliber are you loading?

First thing, I think that without the resources and tips listed here I would have gone insane because none of the youtube videos are very good and it definitely took quite a bit of tinkering. Very easy to get it to only flip a few every 100, harder to get it almost perfect. After playing with the primer drop insert, the clear cover at the top of the ramp, the rheostat, and putting the RF-100 on a gun mat as opposed to directly on a wood bench, I have it working reliably. I ran a couple thousand primers through (well 100 primers a lot of times) after finding a reliable setting and only had 1 primer flip. Definitely good enough for me not to have to watch it run. I've seen a lot of people getting frustrated with the RF-100's and I can tell you that 30 minutes to an hour of your time is well worth never having to manually fill primers or deal with a flip tray and a vibraprime ever again. It is stated in other older threads but... 1. Make sure the insert is loose - for me the screw almost touches the top edge of the primer tube when it is inserted 2. Adjust the clear cover (over the last portion of the primer ramp) toward the outside of the primer ramp until primers won't enter, then very slowly adjust inward until they will just start going through and tighten down snug. 3. Rheostat - for me using the lowest setting was the best, if I turn it up much it starts to flip primers. Most people use between lowest and slightly above the lowest setting 4. May depend on your primers, but for me having it on a gun mat (or a small mouse pad) helped smooth things out 5. the loud vibrating that comes and goes at times is the spring in the insert on the base (what you set the primer tube on) vibrating against its housing and is NOT the screw touching the top of the primer tube i.e. nothing you need to "fix".

Because they are manufacturing it. It is just like mil-spec AR-15 lowers. The same could be said for the vast majority of 2011 items that are built to a certain spec. It is a pattern. NFA just happens to be one of the most common in the AR-9 pattern. I don't think it is wrong for them to call it their lower, they are manufacturing it in house.