RiggerJJ

Don't use one, got tired of it honking all the time for no reason. I now just use a visual check in each case for powder before placing a bullet. jj

I run large and small Winchester, large CCI, and small Federals. Hardly ever do I have to adjust anything, even the vibration control. once in a while I clean the platter that the primers go around on with brake cleaner, seems to help a lot... jj

Yep, that is a common jam, caused by a primer not seating and getting mangled and it ends up staying in the primer slide. When you cycle the machine again, the mangled primer stops the primer slide at the shell plate and stops everything. I pull the slide back a bit until the primer punch goes thru the slide in the large hole, and then remove the mangled primer. Also would suggest removing the ratchet, it gets in the way a lot. Just remember to not short stroke the machine without stopping and checking all stations. jj

Also I can almost guarantee that the round ahead of the one on the primer station now doesn't have a primer...its magled and still sitting in the primer slide. jj

Its the primer slide not fully cycling and the punch is hitting it...You can pull the slide out slightly so the punch goes thru the larger hole and get it cycled, then clear the mangled primer... jj

I put a powder die in the nomal station and fitted the top of it with a powder funnel. Waiting for the Chargemaster with the ram up, dump the powder into the funnel after its measured, put the powder pan back on the chargemaster, drop the ram, place a bullet and raise the ram seating it, wait at the top again for the Chargemaster... Repeat... This is how I load my 260 precision ammo... jj

The platform that the primers walk around on needs to be cleaned quite often. I use simple green. I've even heard of one that saw constant use getting sandblasted to resurface the platform... jj

I prefer the simple approach; don't get the brass wet in the first place... ?

Want2, Jeese, I didn't single out anyone (other than the OP) in fact, you are the only other one in this thread that did acknowledge that the rf100 is automatic and reliable. Feeling guilty? A couple of faupas in your rather dramatic rhetoric thou; Decapping live primers IS safe when done safely. The RF is not the only culprit for flipped primers. It can happen in the press as well. The RF CAN be set up to do the process perfectly with NO flipped primers. Mine is...so yes, all in a thousand are facing the same direction. As for those rounds with a flipped primer, if you don't take them apart, how do you SAFELY dispose of them? Throw them in the trash and let the garbage man deal with them? A live round can be disassembled safely and most if not all components recovered. And for bronco, you CAN set the rf up to be perfect. Those who choose to badmouth it did not spend the time to get it perfect. Once its there, its there. Large or small. jj

What the OP (and others) fail to acknowledge is that the RF100 is automatic. Dump in a tray of primers and turn it on, and forget it. When you need more they are ready.

Coors...yech...

The name of the game in loading for auto loaders is "get er done". Handling brass multiple times wastes time. Like using a pencil sharpener type trimmer, or a drill mounted one. It takes extra time and effort (and makes your fingers sore) handling the cases. With a press mounted trimmer things go waaaay faster and you don't get carpal tunnel. jj

For AR ammo, do yourself a favor and get a Dillon trimmer. Set it up on a dedicated processing head for your 650. Clean and lube the brass, then; Station1 - full length resize and decap Station 3 - trimmer Station 5 - m-die to prep case mouth for bullet. (I use the 1050 swag hold down die, same process) Dry tumble to remove lube. Swag primer pockets if using mil brass. Then set up a loading head. In station 1 use a universal decap die to remove any tumbling media stuck in the primer pocket, and prime, powder, seat bullet normally. Eta; do a slight crimp here with a taper crimp die to remove the case mouth expansion that the m-die puts in. For my precision bolt gun I use basically the same process after annealing, but use a neck sizer/decap in 1, a redding body die in 3 that bumps the shoulder .002, and a lee quick trim (manual trimmer) in 4. For the loading head I have nothing in 1, prime normally, and I hand trickle each powder drop, and use a Redding precision seat die...Runnout is non-existent. The whole process is much quicker than using a single stage, and If David Tubb can use a 650 for his precision loading, so can I... jj

Amazing...

The obvious would be to take apart and clean the primer assembly and the platform...

You do need to remove the primer assembly once in a while to clean under the wheel and to clean the assembly. Grime under the wheel will cause the problem you are having... jj

That's why you don't spray into a pile of cases; The lube gets inside the case. Spritz into an empty container, add cases and shake. Then put the pile into the case feeder. No lube will contaminate the inside of the case. jj

Bend your thumb so the tip of the thumb is pushing shells (instead of the pad) and the 1st knuckle is holding the lifter down. jj

I run 2 zip ties, one between the 1st and 2nd station, sizer and swager, (swaging rod doesn't hit the case mouth on 223 or 308 anymore). And between the powder and seat die to eliminate powder slinging. It keeps the case fully seated in the shell plate so the case doesn't rock around, and it smooths the advance. Win-win! jj

Yea, fixed it...autocorrect strikes again...

Hummm... How history repeats itself... Back when I got my new 1050, I spent a few hours fussing with my original primer slide with rubber hose...then it hit me. I took the hose off, and have been running on the roll pin ever since. Not worn or anything, removing the hose did the trick. you don't need to replace the roll pin, it works just fine. Oh yea, i removed the hose 10 years ago, roll pin is still good. And I am not an engineer, nore did I stay in a holiday inn last nite... jj

For your info, I did watch the video. And I don't need to be told to calm down... Your conclusions are pretty sound except for steel jackets or bi-metal. They will crater or even penetrate depending on velocity or barrel length. 308 steel jackets will always penetrate even at longer distances. Most MDs have ROs use a magnet to check on stages to verify steel or not. Problem is, you can't tell the difference between steel core and steel jackets with a magnet. Every spring it seems this subject comes up and somebody says "this or that ammo didn't hurt my targets, so I want to use it in your match". Major difference in your targets and ones used for most 3 gun matches are that we use a flash type target, which have more mass to move than a strap hung target. Strap targets are well known to last longer just from the simple fact that they take a hit better. BUT, 3gunners have pretty much demanded the use of flash targets for ease of hit verification, espcially at longer distances, and having volunteer ROd that may not have the best of vision. I have tested all that stuff you did, and also 308 ammo. ANY projectile with steel in it, and over speed ammo WILL damage targets. Cool thing is, the stuff that causes damage is CHEAP. A shooter that wants to perform well at a major does not use cheap ammo. Please, leave that stuff at home and bring your match ammo. When in doubt, if it says 556 M193, or the bullet sticks to a magnet, don't bring it. jj

I could give a rats a$$ how many videos are made. I've heard all the excuses and justifications it seems like thousands of times. Fact is they do damage steel targets, and they are our targets, so our rules apply. After spending thousands on steel targets I see no justification for people to save a couple of pennies per round just to punch holes in our targets. Don't bring banned ammo to any of our matches, to include steel projectiles and over speed (M193). Use it and get caught, match DQ. Its in the match rules, please follow them. jj

Wolff has 45 inch mag springs...