RiggerJJ

I have to disagree as well, just from experience. I know my 26 inch barrels om all 3 of my 3 gun Benelli have a much smaller pattern than my 20 inch 1919, or my wife's 18.5 inch Benelli. jj

No Name Tactical...

No, the Dillon swage hold down die expands the case mouth, and is used in the swage station to hold down the case while the primer pocket is being swaged. Guess i should have called it the swag backup die...and you don't have to have a 1050 to use it as a expansion die. It works fine as a mouth expander alone. But if using it as its designed on the swage station, do not trim the tip off because it holds down the case for pocket swaging AND expands the case mouth. Has nothing to do with the EGA hold down die, which is used above the primer seat station, not the swage station. It cannot be used on rifle brass either, to me a pretty much useless die.

I use the Dillon swage hold down die (does the same as a M die), and a Redding seat die... jj

Vortex Spitfire

WieBad bags...

A 50yd zero is not necessarily a 200yd, never has been for me anyway. It may be close, but not on. I mean several inches not on... ALWAYS verify at 200 (or your selected zero) after setting a PRELIMINARY zero at 50 or some other close range. jj Eta; just a word of advice. (And I see this a lot) Don't go to a match with a 50yd zero and expect to hit long range targets...

Exactly!

I shoot iron sight pistols AND open pistols. There is a definite advantage with the dot, mostly on tight targets and longer ranges, but it does help up close as well. Often times I find myself doing a stage one way with one gun, but would have done it totally differently with the other. Ain't gonna happen anytime soon in our neck of the woods...sorry. jj Eta; don't be afraid of open, embrace the dark side!

The hard part is gonna be getting a set of rings that work on both, i suspect you will need different heights. I would get 2 sets of rings and just transfer the scope. Get rings that are not the split type of course, and you can leave the bottom half of the ring in place on the rail. jj

Get the Nordic or Tacom, they support 3gun, and they shoot 3gun!

Usually, rules are published on the matches website. RM3G rules are, not far from the application.

Try a different primer

Yep, very noisy. I just put on a full cover headset and listen to music... jj

To the OP Get the 1050. All steps can be done on press including trimming and swaging, so you will not need to handle any brass mid process. Get 2 tool heads for 223; one for processing the brass, and the other to load it. For 9mm you will only need one head. In goes components, out comes completed ammo. I run thru 3-5 5gallon buckets each of 223, 308, 9mm, 40, and 45 during the winter and having the 1050 is the only way I would do it. Enjoy the 1050! (For precision ammo I load it on a 650, but that is an entirely different process. Two heads with a hand cranked lee trimmer that trims, chamfers, and deburs on the processing head, and I measure each powder throw on a trickler...neck turning (not trimming) is done off press, but I am only running 200-500 rounds at a time...) jj

You don't need to chamfer and debur after a Dillon trimmer, I dont. Bell the case slightly eliminates the need to chamfer even with flat bottom bullets, and a slight crimp after seating eliminates the need for deburing. Been doing it this way for years, sub-moa ammo. All steps are done on the press. After processing tumble again to remove case lube and also to remove swarf from the case mouth. Again, no handling of individual piece of brass... jj

There is no way I would trade a on-press Dillon trimmer for a pencil sharpener type trimmer. It adds another step to the process and makes you handle each case to trim...not to mention the carpal tunnel syndrome you will get from holding each case in the trimmer...

FP wipe. Pretty common in Tanfos and CZs.

I would think just the opposite. If you are using a 308 at longer distances you will for sure need to have a longer reach or range in your scope because it will drop more than a 6.5 or some other 1k round. The 20moa base will let you set zero up near the top of the scope turrent range, letting you have more room to dial for the drops when stretching its legs...I used a 20moa base on a 308 for longer range for 2-3 years before going to a 6.5...it shouldn't be the OPs problem.

The Forester dies will work just fine. You will still need to trim the brass after sizing thou. A common method is to have two heads set up, one for processing brass, (decap, size, and adding a Dillon trimmer here really makes quick work of it) and the other for loading it. Clean/tumble the brass before each, trim (if no Dillon on the processing head) and swage primer pockets between the two... jj

I use a Lee collet neck die, followed by a Redding body die, no runout to speak of...

That's why I got the ProCrono digital, because it will give an accurate reading with birdshot. Thanks for the info, now I won't be enticed to get a labradar...

A lot of the digital units have circutry that help keep them at tare (zero). If you leave weight on them they will drift because they are trying to zero...

I have a 2fer vest you both can use, holds 36 rounds...easy to pull off one at a time too. jj