RiggerJJ

Probably need to replace the white locking tabs. And when removing the shell plate nut, be sure to totally unscrew and remove all 4 white tabs so they don't get threaded.

I'm retired, and love reloading. But the extra mess and farting around with wet tumbling is a total waste of my time. My tumbler is in a separate area from the reloaders, so dust is not present I have never seen this supposed lead ladened dust anyway, other than maybe a small amount when pouring the brass/media mixture into a sperator. jj

Amen...I see no need for a progressive loader when you make more work for yourself and can do it your way with a single stage. Shiny brass (including the primer pockets) do nothing to improve the function of the ammo... Tumble it, load it, and shoot it for God's sake! ?

Or just go without a bullet feeder. Been hand feeding bullets for 15 years and probably won't stop... To increase loading room effiency I usually suggest a RF100 automatic primer loader. Dump a tube of primers into your 650 primer mag, load the RF with a tray of primers and turn it on, and go back to loading. when you need more primers they are ready for you. Way faster than pecking at a primer tray or any other tube loader. (And to all of you out there who will flame on me for suggesting it, I have heard it all so don't bother...fact is they work if you bother to set them up correctly) jj

And after seating, a slight crimp will remove the burr on the outside of the mouth.

You may want to check those groups without the magnetospeed. I get different results with it on vs off...so I shoot a few for crono speed, then remove the MS for groups.

Great weekend, hope everyone had fun shooting RM3G style 3gun on saturday, and 2 rifle on Sunday! jj

Guess I needed to qualify that, only with those long range pickup guns have we exceeded 600 yards... With your own rifle has always been under 600... ?

It will flame cut the tip of the firing pin if it goes off...

More crimp. It should at least be the same if not a couple thou under at the mouth.

We have NEVER gone out to 800 yards at RM3G. Furthest 3gun target we have set in the past was 650, and that was at HeMan Nationals 3-4 years ago. RM3G? Furthest target was 600 yards, and it's happened several times... jj

Get a crono, before you start load development...

The key here is using the proper tool in the drill. A true reamer will easily over do it and make the pocket unable to hold a primer. All you need to do is cut the swage out, which is right at the surface. This tool in a drill will do the job and not destroy the brass; https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/176759/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-large? Or get the Dillon super Swage 600... Or better yet, the 1050. ? jj

Yep, I had to do that to my casefeed plates as well... jj

Dillon 1050 or Super Swage 600

And if you leave the caps on while shooting a stage, they won't be there when you are finished...

Just use the 1050 you have. unless you are made of money and want a press for each process you do. But you can just about anything on the 1050.

There ya go... I just look carefully at the primer punch and align the shell plate with it. It takes a bit of trial and error cause you have to remove the shell plate to get to the bolts under it. jj

and I also find it odd that the OP has not posted here since the beginning... maybe he could tell us what a "timing pencil" is...

I've had a 650 for 15years, never heard of a timing kit...guess I will check on that. ETA; I know about the alignment tool, I don't have one, but have learned how to align it without the tool. Is that what you mean?

By the way, what is a timing pencil? How do you set the timing on a 650? How does it so easily go out of time? I have never "set the timing" on mine, bar adjusting the case insertion system, which I don't think would have any affect on primer flipping... jj

A couple of ideas you may have tried... 1.Change to a different lot of primers. 2.Tighten the shell plate, if it's loose it will flip primers. ETA; this is the most common press related problem. Make sure the shell plate will not rock back and forth when pressing down on opposite sides. 3.Check the punch and it's mounting. If it sticks up just a hair it can flip em. ETA; it can also not be screwed in far enough which will cause problems. 4.Make sure the path on the platform the primers make while going around in the wheel is squeeky clean. ETA; the platform under the wheel. 5.Make sure you are using the small wheel for small primers... I usually don't have much problem with small primers, but things have to be just right for large... Good luck jj

I have a bit more space with hs6... Not really sure it makes much difference, as the shell is usually in a horizontal position while it's in the mag, plus the powder is sloshing around during recoil... jj

Diffuser chokes actually have rifling in them to "diffuse" the pattern quicker. At 10 yards you will not really see any difference from, say, a ic choke. But out past 15 or so they will really shine. At 30 (with 7.5 shot) they are pretty much petered out. So between 12 and 28 or so they work well with 7.5 shot. I usually use a df choke for most stuff, and change shot size for different distances, smaller for close and larger for far. Just another way to get there... jj

Although I have not seen one, at first glance it does appear that gun could be legal in most HM matches. However, I would be careful about the ease of reloading on the clock compared to a traditional shotgun like an 870 or Nova... jj