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robertg5322

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Everything posted by robertg5322

  1. Game plan, trigger pull weight and any chances I had of winning go out the window once the timer goes "'Beep".
  2. No fiddling with the loop. I welded the sharktooth firing pin safety actuator thingy to minimize overtravel, but that's it. Stock trigger, stock trigger bar, the Apex parts were in the gun when I bought it. I added a RAM, it made no difference. The H trigger bar made the slightest difference in reset tactility, but not enough to make it worth the $20.00 I spent on the trigger and slide stop (the newest slide stop has a lump on it that's supposed to increase the tactility of the reset, again not a lot but it is noticeable). The 3 lb trigger pull is easy with Apex parts, some dudes have done work to get even lower. I have no issues with the 3 lbs, and I didn't want to be fiddling with the gun for a difference I wouldn't notice once the timer went "Beep".
  3. I had one where the extension retainer thing would bind the spring/follower and turn the mag into an unsprung ammo holder that would not feed the gun. That and the fact that they only provide 22 rounds made me switch to the TTI. I got the ones on Brownell's with the Brownell's logo, they were $10.00 cheaper than without the Brownell's logo. 23 + 1, easily reloadable and no jammed magazines. That said, Arredondo extensions have worked great on Glock mags for me for years. They last, they're reliable, they give 23 + 1 reloadable and they're affordable.
  4. It's not saving you any time if you have to whack the mag after it's inserted. My thumb is on the slide stop when inserting the mag, so even if it didn't auto-forward, the slide would ride home. If you just have to insert the mag vigorously, it's saving you whatever time actuating the slide stop would have cost. If you're whacking the mag after it's inserted (smacking the bottom after it's in the gun), you're wasting time. Of course the fastest way to run a stage is to not run dry. So this is all theoretical, right?
  5. Your math is off. If I run dry, say for the sake of this discussion it costs me a half second. If I have to release the slide vs. it releasing itself, it costs me an extra amount of time (say for the sake of this discussion .25 seconds). So when I run dry, if it auto forwards, I've lost .5 seconds if the slide auto forwards. If I have to manually forward it, you add the .25 seconds to the half second I'm eating for running dry. It did cost me more time to actuate the slide release, slide stop, doohickey, thimajig, whatchmacallit or whatever you want to call the slide stop than if the slide auto-forwards.
  6. I have both one each in my two guns. I can't tell the difference. Both guns have something like a 3.1 lb trigger with Apex parts. H is supposed to provide a more tactile reset, and it might just do that, but I can't tell the difference.
  7. Figure out what it is before changing parts. Or don't.
  8. Sig Max if you can find one. Quality internals, front strap checkering, good sights. Just tune it and go. Unless you can't abide the funky slide and external extractor.
  9. Don't think you'll get the spacers out without damaging the magazine, and those dimples that hold the spacers in place will still be there causing you issues if you do. Probably easier to sell those and just buy new mags.
  10. EGW has a higher mag catch that made a huge difference in my home built Kimber conversion. It'll feed any length ammo now. Tripp mags and various others (Metalform, Checkmate or .45 mags). Used to have the same first round feeding problem, not feeds smooth and reliably.
  11. It's because California has what they call the "frosted of Approved Handguns", which no manufacturer can get a semi-auto on unless it has microstamping ability. Which none do. So cops and others who are exempt from said roster bring in two and sell one for twice price, making their gun free. I'll be out of the state in less than a year. Pity, geographically and climate-wise there's no better place in the world, but politically it sucks.
  12. TTI & Arrendondo hold 23 + 1 reloadable reliably (or will when the spring takes a set). Taylor Freelance brass mag extension holds 22 + 1, reloadable. Dawson Precision holds 23 + 1 reloadable, but it's tighter than the Arredondo and TTI. All are super durable. I've never had one break or fly off. Dawson bases can be found at very reasonable prices on Brownell's. The rest are in the $30.00-$40.00 range. As stated by Eric, Arredondo are easiest to get off with the little tool they provide, and don't stress the spring. I like the Arredondo extensioins for Glock. Their M&P extensions blow. 22 + 1, and the retention part binds on the spring, locking the follower at the bottom of the magazine at the worst possible time. They're cheap, but they suck.
  13. No, I've done two M&Ps, just the new PC backstraps and I did nothing but clean them with alcohol. They've held up over several thousand rounds, and only lost a minimal amount of grippyness. The grit is still there, 100%. Zero issues. I would not waste time sanding unless you were looking for a reduction in grip girth.
  14. It's a fair deal. Nobody's getting the better of anyone in that deal, which is how they should be. Here in California, the Shadow 2 is $2,300.00 or so, the Trojan $1,500.00. But in the free world, they're probably comparably priced.
  15. My NFA clone lower, side charging upper, Holosun 510c dot and huge Brian Miller magwell works fine. I strap it down when in the scabbard, cause I don't want it falling out, but I'd close my gun bag if I went the standard bag route, so I don't see that as a negative. 45 degree mount might make it difficult cause it's on the opposite side of the side charger.
  16. Thats great for the guy who gets the gun he blew up through negligence fixed for free, but that's why Springfield Armory sells $600.00 guns for $1,000.00. Great that they have the CS reputation, but sad that their QC makes it necessary so often.
  17. Interesting article on springs, specifically gun springs. http://www.thinklikeacop.org/springfatigue.html
  18. I like the Dawson IPSC magwell for one reason, you don't have to buy basepads. And it's aluminum, so it's light. GI guide rod. Just looks better. My Springfield Loaded 9mm needed a bunch of other stuff (all internals, barrel, bushing, controls, etc), it was a joke how much it cost and how much was needed to make it right. But it's nice now. I like Kimber ambi safety, low profile, but not so low my thumb slips off it. I like how the off side lever (I'm left handed) is retained by the hammer pin, similar to EGW, but not as robust or costly. Have them on all of my 1911s for years and have yet to have one fail. I think the only Springfield parts left are the frame, slide, rear sight, firing pin and FP spring, extractor, pins, plunger tube, and BTGS. While it was a rattly, loose, and over-priced gun, it was never unreliable. Now it's not rattly or loose anymore. Metalform mags have been great, and affordable. If I was doing it again, I'd get a Sig Max. Comes with all the good parts, just needs tuning.
  19. Since you already have the magwell, it's probably cheaper for you to buy some Dawson basepads and keep the Ice magwell. Starting from scratch, the IPSC is the way to go, saves you the cost of basepads (about $13.00 each). Gets scratched up with use, but so what? And remember to factor the weight of those basepads into your gun. They're aluminum, so heavier than the plastic that most mags come with.
  20. I like Sig at that price point for one reason; they give you a checkered frontstrap. Nobody else does that on a gun they sell for less than a grand. Funky slide, blah, blah, blah. Buy a holster, even factoring in that $60.00 you're still ahead of the game.
  21. CA has an odd mix, mostly due to the Roster of Approved Handguns which limits what we can buy. No .40 S&W guns, only two 9mm (Kimber and SA) and a bunch of .45s.and a few 10mms. Sad state of affairs here.
  22. My point was that Springfield Armory guns seem to need attention from the manufacturer at a rate well above most other manufacturers. Good that they fix them, bad that they have to do it so often. And that .220" BTGS radius. We higher volume shooters probably wouldn't be sending our guns back for some of the crap novices do (extractor adjustment, sight adjustment, minor blemish, or any of the litany of minor issues I've read of), which only serves to increase costs to SA, which are passed along to buyers in the form of higher prices.
  23. The problem with that logic is how the excellent customer service reputation was earned. Usually (Springfield Armory comes to mind here) it's the product of a lousy QC reputation. Good on them for fixing their mistakes, bad on them for making enough mistakes that they earned a great CS rep. And nothing is free. That shipping and free repair is why their guns are so expensive. And did I mention I hate the odd-ball .220 BTGS radius?
  24. Taccom feed ramp fixed this issue on my ATI (NFA clone) AR9. Only works on Glock mag guns though.
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