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Grandpoobah

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About Grandpoobah

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Walter D. Kradin

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  1. Hi: I secured four or five motors from Amazon five or six years ago - sold in a lot of five I believe - search for small d.c. toy motors and select one with a 3 volt rating and the same physical dimensions. The key is affixing the off-set weight to provide vibration. I used red Loctite since if the motor died I could use high heat to remove the weight and then reuse it. As I recall they were very inexpensive - approximately $2.00 each - and they work - would have preferred higher quality motor but was not able to locate any. Some motors last a long time - some have their bearings go fairly quickly - the luck of the draw. In addition I converted all of my Pal Primer fillers to line operated power supply's to ensure constant 3 volt d.c. to the motor - performance does not fall off as the batteries voltage decreases - search Amazon for electronic board that will do this for you - I purchased some with digital read out of the adjusted voltage for approximately $12 each - five years ago. The Pal Primer fillers are the best thing since sliced cheese - too bad they re no longer available. Grandpoobah in Arizona
  2. Hi JDillon: I had a similar problem and it was due to the primer punch - sugest you check the primer punch bushing, replace the primer punch spring, and check the primer punch for wear. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale, AZ
  3. Hi: Built a 1911 single stack Government barrel with ramp in frame - .40 S&W. Great fit and very smooth slide to frame and barrel to slide fit - so I was surprised when I tested it with dummies before heading to the range. First round feed , then rounds would not chamber. Since the first round feed - while oil was present - some was inadvertently on the ramp - I decided to test it by putting oil directly on ramp. A couple of rounds then feed. Noticed the step was a little on the deep side - prefer approximately 1/32" or so setback for the step. Rather than file the ramp I polished the ramp to a mirror finish and now the gun feeds. I imagine it would have feed without polishing if the step was less. Removing metal is always my last resort - lucky this time. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale
  4. Hi Roxfo: The UK ??? Never heard if it. Kidding aside I shoot .308 occasionally - I have a Super Match M1A made for me when I was in the industry - four lug receiver, Krieger match barrel,Leopold scope, etc. It is wasted on me as I shoot old D.C.M. military ammo. I am, however, neurotic about my .38 S.C. ammo as I shoot Open Class in Arizona . Back to motors. Dillon's new motor ( a Molon ) runs at 8 rpm - mine goes at 10 rpm - not much of a difference but some of my case feeders are the new style with adjustments available. I suggest a 110V supply as it will be much less expensive than a special order motor. Or you can import some electricity from the states - every one in a while we have sales on used electricity. Hope all is well. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale.
  5. Hi Roxfo: Sorry - you are right I dropped the 2 and I saw 24 and assumed you were looking for a d.c. motor as most of the adapter kits use these for reasons unknown - other than perhaps easy reversal which in my opinion is not a big deal. To secure a 240 volt version is easy but not practical - if you call Rex Engineering (1200 Chaffee Dr, Titusville, FL 32780 - 321-268-5500 ) they can tell you if there is an equivalent to this motor as a stock item and perhaps direct you to a distributor that will have it in stock or is willing to order it for you. They will make it for you if need be - no problem - but you have to agree to a minimum lot. If you buy 25 pieces they will run a sample lot through their prototype shop if you are considering using them for re-sale - in fact they will tailor the spec to your requirements (increase torque if so requested, etc. ) and include the pinned shaft to the specification required as to location of the hole. A step up transformer these days would probably be too expensive but I would definitely call them - they may have a item i 240 v that will fit the bill - make certain that the mounting hole pattern is the same as on the #6142K44. Good luck - where are you that you require 240 volts? Grandpoobah in Scottsdale.
  6. Hi: I have used the Lyman "M" die in combination with the Dillon powder funnel and they work well together. The trick is, as I see it, to have the "M" die open up the case (I remove the swagging station and install the "M" die in it's place) without flaring out the top of the case. Then when it reaches the powder station I set a very minimal amount of "flare" with the Dillon powder funnel. This works very well at speeds up to 2,400 rph. The thing to remember is less is more - the weight of the bullet drop column seats the bullet not the amount of flare. More belling at the mount makes the bullet wobble and is counterproductive - the least amount of Dillon powder funnel "flare" that works is the way to go. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale.
  7. Hi Roxfo: This is frustrating - this is the original post - motor number is #614K44 . Tired of Case Pro and Mark 7 Auto Drives out running my Dlllon Case Feeders. I selected a Rex Engineering motor - #614K44 at McMasters -Carr ($57.80) - as it is a direct replacement - all five motor mountsare the same - goes in with removal of old motor and connection of the two leads to the replacement motor. Speed is 10 rpm - 9 rpm under load (Dillon is 4/3). Torque is higher. Only modification is to cut out a 1" section of the plastic motor compartment cover "slats" to allow for rear of the replacement motor shaft to have clearance. You do of course have to drill a hole for the 3/4" roll pin and the shaft is case hardened. If you have a mill you are home free. Works great. If you have new style case feeders raise the roll pin a 1/16" up to allow clearance for the adjustment plate to the left and above the funnel. Have a great day. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale, Arizona
  8. Hi Roxfo: I tried to reply to your email but I now understand this is not possible so here is what I wrote you: I have a second post that describes it - see below copy of my second post. I purchased two (2) McMaster-Carr Rex motors with their (McMaster-Carr) number and I pinned the shaft. I suggest you do not mess with a 24 Volt D.C. gear motor and power supply. It is ridiculous to use a d.c motor when a direct replacement a.c. motor is available with more torque and three times the speed. at some $56.00. The motor I used fits the Dillon 5 hole mounting points EXACTLY. You just cut the two wires to the motor - screw this one in and connect the two wires to the new motor. The only thing you have to do first is make a hole in the shaft 0.500" up from the end of the mounts - exactly the same location as on the Molon motor you remove and push in a 3/4" roll pin - as noted they mount exactly the same so the height up from the base is the same as on the Dillon. Note the shaft is case hardened so you need a slow drill press or a mill and a carbide bit. The bases are very similar - the new motor is slightly larger. You have to remove one slot on the Dillon bottom cover so as to not interfere with the rear of the new motor shaft. This also allows more cooling. If you have any other questions please write me and I will do my best to help you. The new motor loads an empty drop tube on my 1050 set up for .38 S.C. in less than 30 seconds with the press off. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale
  9. Hi Roxfo (Robert): I answered your message - I hope that helps - they do not place a Rex number on the motors that McMaster-Carr sells ( they do not want to compete with their large accounts which is understandable ) - in any event as noted I do not believe in switching to a 24 v d.c. motor - it makes no sense to me - you need a power supply and have to worry about the mounting - the motor I used is a DIRECT replacement - no changes to the wiring, etc. No need for a power supply, Cost is under $60 - what more could you ask for. Motor has more than three times the speed and approximately 50% more torque - it is a win - win situation. Good luck. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale
  10. Hi Dpick101: See my post: Grandpoobah Finally read the FAQs Classified 55 Posted May 16 (edited)Tired of Case Pro and Mark 7 Auto Drives out running my Dlllon Case Feeders. I selected a Rex Engineering motor - #614K44 at McMasters -Carr ($57.80) - as it is a direct replacement - all five motor mountsare the same - goes in with removal of old motor and connection of the two leads to the replacement motor. Speed is 10 rpm - 9 rpm under load (Dillon is 4/3). Torque is higher. Only modification is to cut out a 1" section of the plastic motor compartment cover "slats" to allow for rear of the replacement motor shaft to have clearance. You do of course have to drill a hole for the 3/4" roll pin and the shaft is case hardened. If you have a mill you are home free. Works great. If you have new style case feeders raise the roll pin a 1/16" up to allow clearance for the adjustment plate to the left and above the funnel. Have a great day. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale, Arizona
  11. Hi Shmella: I measured the speed of my case feeder with my higher speed, higher torque motor and it feeds cases at approximately 2,800 cases per hour. My automated Case Pro 100 requires a speed of approximately 2,100 case per hour in .40 S&W and my Mark 7 .38 S.C. machine loads at 2,400 rounds per hour so the modified case feeder more than keeps up with the speed of the auto drive 1050. It takes a little less than 30 seconds to completely fill the case feeder drop tube when started empty. Dillon has announced a new faster version of the case feeder and a motor upgrade kit for those with current case feeders who wish to upgrade their performance due to automation. Have a great day. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale, AZ
  12. Hi Brassaholic 13: I thought to refile the slot but it is difficult to "file" plastic so I decided just to raise it slightly - works as it was designed to with this "modification". Purchased three of these and only the .40 S&W worked as received. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale, Arizona
  13. Hi Shmella: Please rephrase your question. Thank you. Grandpoobah in Scottsdale, Arizona
  14. Hi Sarge: I have replaced the Dillon 4 RPM motor with a 10 RPM motor - see my posting for model number of the motor - available from McMaster - Carr. Note that while the installation is a five minute direct substitution you have to have a machine shop drill a hole for the roll pin using a carbide drill bit in a mill. With the higher speed motor the case feeder works great. works great. Any motor will require the shaft modification so unless you are looking to increase the speed the Molon motor available from Dillon is the way to go.
  15. Those using the Fast & Friendly Brass Dillon Case Feeder Adapter may experience a stoppage in the feed tube after high volume use on a 1050 automated drive . I solved the problem by raising the clover slightly off the frame by using two thin washers as spacers. I hypothesize that the slot under the cover - which, for example, on .45 A.C.P. - is not as wide as on the Dillon original equipment part - may be the cause. In any event rising the cover sightly solves the stoppages in my applications. The use of the F&F B adapter, as a plus, eliminates the separate caliber specific adapter insert (green for .38 S.C., red for .45 A.C.P., etc.) which sometimes rides up under auto drive speeds and also causes problems. With the modification I prefer the F&F B unit for this reason.
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