robertg5322

The translated closed captions are priceless. That said, if they made this with the standard frame profile, I'd buy one tomorrow. Still waiting on a quality grip that converts the Vertec frame to the classic frame. Are you listening Berette, VZ, LOK, Hogue, et al?

I don't care what it is, all I want is for there to be one standard for a specific caliber barrel. 1/2" × 28 for .22 & .223 barrels 5/8" × 24 for. 30 cal & 9mm And whatever it is now for the less commonly seen calibers

Lessons learned the hard way are lessons that are learned for life. If an individual puts a .223 comp on a 9mm barrel, they'll only do it once. What's actually annoying is there's two "standards" for PCC barrels.

If they'd get rid of the stupid grip safety they'd probably get a larger share of the USPSA market.

Can you give some details of the improvement after the aftermarket parts install? I have a 2.0 CORE Pro Series 9, and the trigger is like 2.2lbs, nice short, but tactile reset, and an overtravel screw to get rid of the overtravel. Only complaint (and it's not really a complaint, just something I noticed) was there's a lot of pretravel, which is only an issue on the first shot, if at all. I've had a few original M&P Pro guns, and their triggers were horrible, and much improved by the addition of Apex parts. I'd like to know what would my improvement be on the 2.0... Thanks. Bob

I've had less issues getting Colt mags with TF extensions to work in my Spikes Tactical PCC gun than I did getting Glock mags to work in my NFA clone. It prefers the Colt mags with steel followers. ASC Colt mags are the only ones I've had that need to be messed with to work. Admittedly, it's much easier to get a Glock mag gun working now with Taccom and other ramped barrels, and JP Rifles always worked (but JP Rifles are not cheap), but Colt mag guns are in my experience at least as reliable, and in earlier guns before ramped barrels, easier to get working. And if it matters to you, Colt mag guns have a more reliable LRBHO.

The Ruger can be made very AR15esque, in my opinion its fatal flaw is the location of the mag catch, and the fact that you have to pull the bolt handle to reload after LRBHO (though the latter is somewhat mitigated by the fact that it's a side-charger). The Tandemkross Upriser (the straight one, the bent one is too ugly for my tastes) solves the "not an AR15" issue pretty well, and also addresses the mag catch. Throw on a light weight buttstock and Taccom carbon fiber handguard and you're right at about 6.5 lbs, which is reasonable. It's nice that the Rugers have a good reputation for reliability, so all you have to do after making it a lighter, more AR15ish gun is put a magazine in and start shooting. Now if Taccom would come out with a 13"/16" or 10"/16" barrel for them, life would be good.

I only have one CMC trigger, in a regular AR (not a PCC), and it has about the shortest travel you could expect. I have no issues at all with it. I don't own a CMC PCC trigger, but if I were in the market for a PCC trigger, it'd be an option, mostly due to the price being reasonable. I have one JP Trigger (just the trigger & disconnector kit), and it works nice. A little heavier than I'd like, but ridiculously short reset, no pre or over travel. Not bad at all for what it is. Only cost $90.00.

With the Tandemkross Upriser (straight model, not the bent one) and Taccom carbon fiber handguard, my Ruger is 6 lbs 8 oz. with optic and riser.. Within an ounce of my two AR9s, which are neither light or heavy. The handguard moves the weight bias further back, which is nice, but the ARs are shorter, and feel better when shooting. The Ruger has a better trigger, but that's just cause I didn't want to spend $300.00 twice for triggers.

Or just leave them loaded for the next match. One less thing to do.

I have two of their triggers, both had issues. Had to change the disconnector springs, and adjust the set screw at the front of the trigger assembly, not impressed. Sad because other than the hammer follow, they were nice triggers... Won't be wasting my time on their product anymore, CMC PCC trigger isn't that much more expensive, and I've had zero issues with their products.

I feel the same way about super low ports, that require you to either squat so low your thighs are below parallel. I can do it, but it's not fun. In my opinion, for every port that requires this of normal height people in the 5'10" to 6'2" range (also not friendly to us full figured fellas), there should be a port or wall that requires short people (those that usually are the ones designing these low ports) to use some sort of step. Cause Equality!!!! I kid, but I'd also like to see more handicap obstacles that affect short, skinny, or fit shooters. And making a stage that rifle shooters have to contort needlessly just cause you don't like rifle shooters is kind of a d!ck move.

Critique it? Ok. Sounds expensive. I like the side charging though, both of mine are of that variety, NFA on ATI (NFA clone) Glock lower and Matrix Arms on a Spikes Colt mag lower. Yeah, I get that if the gun's running well, it's only used at LAMR & UASC, but it's still cool, and when there is an issue, you look cooler clearing your jam with a side charger than a tail charger. As cool as one can look clearing a jam anyway... With that parts list, you're probably close to JP Rifles price territory, and those things seem to work out of the box. Something to consider.

Anyone know of a manufacturer that makes a S2 mag catch paddle that can be oriented forward and slightly downward for left handed shooters who drop the mag with the strong (left) hand middle finger? Preferably still with the locking position of the OEM part so it isn't constantly coming loose. The one that comes with the gun has a notched or detented slot that match up with the nub on the mag catch, and won't allow the paddle to be facing forward, or even removed without grinding the nub off. Thanks. Bob

$12.00 shipping, ouch! Might see if I can find a thick bottle opener.

I remember seeing a little aluminum tool, made by CZ I believe (had the little CZ symbol on it) that hooked under the nose of the round and the back of the case, and made unloading 9mm Metalform mags much easier, but I can't find it anywhere on the interwebz. If anyone finds it please post it so I can get one.

Yeah, the rounds not coming out by hand is not a product of spring force, my mags are years old, and thousands of rounds through them and unloading them is still a chore. Slightly easier if you bounce the mag bottom off your thigh or table while pushing the top round out.

To be fair, most if not all AR type rifles used in our game aren't stock either, especially the ones used by cats who made GM with them. I'm not even good and my rifles aren't stock...

To be fair, people gravitate to something else because something else is what all the cool kids are using, and they're told you can't be competitive without the latest and greatest stuff. Or it's shinier, or cooler looking. They move to a JP Rifle, then spend a ton more money trying to make it lighter and shorter. Nothing against JP Rifles, they make some nice stuff that works really well, but they're not known as the company that makes lightweight rifles. If the Kel Tec was $1,200.00, it'd probably be more popular, which is funny in a weird way. No saying the Sub2000 is the right tool for the job, or even that it's a good tool for the job. But it is a tool for the job. And you're not going to find a smaller, more compact, lighter 9mm rifle out there anywhere near the same price. And they're fun. If the question is "can I compete with a Kel Tec?" the answer is "yes". If the question is "can I have a blast with a Kel Tec?" the answer is definitely "yes". If the question is "can I be competitive with a Kel Tec?", the answer is "yes, but you're going to have to work harder than someone with a purpose built gun." If it's all you have, bring it out and shoot it. Look around and see what people are using, and what issues they're having. Figure out what you want without spending a ton of money. Enough guys already did that, and they're more than happy to share their experience with you so you don't have to. Or just shoot your Kel Tec and get good with it. I know a guy who raced motorcycles. He always said "it's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than it is to ride a fast bike slow".

They're fun enough guns, but the recoil is more than a nice AR9, and you're going to spend a bit of money making it decent(ish). Handguard, trigger, optic, well, that's about all you can do to them. Trigger can be made better, but not anywhere near like a nice AR trigger. You can make it light, but there will be slop, pretravel, and a bit of grit. But they are fun little guns.

I have a rtb bolt (according to the cats at rimfirecentral.com, it's CMMG stuff rebranded) from rightobear.com that's been completely reliable for me. I got their 16" pencil barrel to go with it. I use S&W magazines with the booniepacker adapter, so it has complete LRBHO function. https://www.righttobear.com/22LR-parts-upgrades-accessories-s/1873.htm I also have the Borebuddy bolt weight, look at the videos on their website for what it does. Worth every penny if you ask me. https://borebuddy.com/product-category/22lr/ I have a PCC upper, no forward assist or dust cover, a Polyer80 lower, 10" aluminum handguard (with steel barrel nut), A2 flashhider, and Taccom ULW buttstock. With DeltaPoint Pro and Leupold riser, it comes in at 4 lbs 13 oz. I'm looking at a KVP 10.25" carbon fiber handguard with aluminum barrel nut to shave another 7 oz off it. https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=330&order=desc&page=2#/forums/330

I cut my barrel to 10", right at the end of the .75" diameter portion of the barrel where the gas block would go it it needed one, and pinned and welded a .75" ID aluminum tube to bring it to 16.1". Nice and light out front, no loss of velocity vs. a 16" barrel, and looks cool.

Tripp basepads work no problem in .40 S&W, same with Metalform 10 rounders in 9mm.

Now if Lok or VZ would just come out with a hump grip for a classic grip I'd be happy.

Thanks, I ended up just ordering a set, and found the same; they fit. My setup is similar, only difference is I kept the stock trigger, only changing out the striker spring and recoil spring, I installed the Carver heavy tungsten guide rod, and I used silicon carbide and two part epoxy backstrap to make it super grippy. I also removed the slide stop detent and spring to facilitate smoother use of the slide stop to drop the slide, not sure why S&W thought it was a good idea to do away with the auto slide forward feature on the 2.0.