robertg5322

I get 23 + 1 easily loadable with Arredondo +5/6 basepads. Basic black, not very Gucci but they work and disassemble easy for cleaning (I'm told, I don't clean Glock mags).

On Glocks I've had the best luck with the Arredondo extensions. Not pretty, not Gucci, not bling, but they work and get +5 in .40 & +6 in 9mm. That's 20 loadable in .40 & 23 loadable in 9mm. The ones I have I've owned since 2008 or so, started on a G35 Limited gun, now they're on a G17 CO gun. Never an issue with them. Easy to clean (though I don't) and affordable.

I had a Gen 3 G17 milled for a Deltapoint Pro by Lone Wolf for like $120.00. Sits as low as a DPP can on a Glock, works well enough. No issues. You can get Armand Swenson slides from MidwayUSA.com for $160.00 if you don't want to cut the original slide, but then you're getting it milled, buying internals and your price goes up. Soon you're near the GSSF cost for a MOS Gen 4 gun. One caveat; I asked Lone Wolf to leave the rear sight dovetail, they did, but the cut went to the edge of the firing pin block plunger. When the dot was mounted, it interfered with the firing pin block, causing the gun to act like a G18 (the plunger movement being limited pressed down on the trigger bar just the right amount to make it full auto and not detonate. The firing pin didn't go forward until the slide stopped its forward motion). I had to file a small notch on the front edge of the DPP to prevent this from happening, and it's not fine, and as long as you don't have them keep the rear sight dovetail not an issue. I notified Lone Wolf, so they probably won't save a rear dovetail for a DPP cut on a G17. In safety testing it, I knew something wasn't right, so the full auto wasn't as much of a surprise is it could have been. The gun was surprisingly controllable in full auto.

I've had better luck with Kimber than Springfield Armory. I find them both to be lacking in internal parts quality, and Springfield worse than Kimber in fit and finish of barrel, bushing, slide and frame. Kimber has the firing pin safety if that bothers you. Springfield has the goofy BTGS radius that makes changing that part a pain. Both are overpriced for what you get. Sig at least gives you front strap checkering at the same price point.

I've had good luck with the epoxy. On M&Ps, I use Talon Grip on the gun and the silicon carbide on the removable part (the back-strap). I can replace those for a few bucks if I sell the gun and whoever buys it doesn't like the super aggressive grip. I also didn't do any prep other than wiping the parts down with alcohol. I've also done AR grips, STI plastic 2011 grips, a knife and a soap dish that kept sliding off the shelf in the shower at the gym. All work better than I expected. Prep is key. Tape well, maintain any borders and peel the tale off before the epoxy hardens so you can address any high spots.

On my 9mm Springfield Loaded Target, I can get maybe 1,000 rounds before it gets so dirty it causes issues. For the .45 Les Baer, maybe 600-700. For the .40 S&W, a Kimber converted by me I'm lucky to get 400 rounds before it has feeding issues. I also find I have to periodically clean the .40 magazines way more frequently than the others. When kept clean, all function as reliably as anyone could expect. When neglected, all function as reliably as you would expect a neglected (non-plastic) gun to function.

I don't have that reaction to anything inanimate, and I don't call them "her", "she", or anything other than what they are, but I do generally keep the guns I shoot. The ones that just lay in the safe get sold after a while, once I realize that I have no use for them, after I sit there wondering why I bought it. My game guns though I keep, cause I know I'll be shooting that division again one day. Single stacks don't change much so keeping it isn't costing me anything. Same with most Production guns, unless you have to have the current hotness every season. I figure it's easier to keep them than to sell them and have to go and buy another one, set it up and get all the ancillary gear when I revisit a division.

Gen 5 also has ambi slide stop, a big deal for us left-handed shooters. Too bad Kalifornia won't let Glock sell me one.

Biggest weakness is capacity.

I tried the Wilson Vombat trigger bar, it made the D/A trigger stroke noticeably longer, wasn't happy with it. Removed it and went back to the stock trigger bar The short reach trigger on the other hand is great. S/A trigger pulls are nice and short, right reset and little movement necessary. Made a decent trigger really nice. Best $45.00 I spent on an upgrade for that gun

Why do you feel like you need a thumb test on a rim fire gun?

New socks, AR15 detents and 1911 recoil spring plugs.

You could try running .40 S&W or 10mm ammo throught one of these, might work, or it might not. https://gunmagwarehouse.com/kci-1911-45-acp-15-round-magazine.html If you want 9mm/.38 Super, try this place. http://www.climags.com/1911-magazine-38-super-15-round-nickel-mag/

I was using the term "glass" in the general sense. I wish it was glass, it's probably stay clear longer. All of what you said, it's foggy, not noticed when shooting and dot is nice, round, bright ball. Not so bright that it starburst, but bright enough that it is clearly visible to my color-blind eyes in all conditions. Good battery life and sits nice and low in the gun.

Mine is a NM s/n gun. Made in USA from what I understand. Being in California, I can only buy what the state says I can buy, RO is not on our "Safe Handgun Roster", so that's why I was stuck with the Loaded. I will say it does look nice. And it is a nice gun now. Just took too much effort to get there. Unacceptable for a $1,000.00 gun. That and the goofy grip safety radius soured me on their guns.

For 9mm, I've had zero issues with Metalform 10 round mags. Work well and are affordable. For .40 S&W, Tripp. No other mag works as well and holds 9 rounds. I have some Check Mate, Metalform, Wilson Combat, which work, but only hold 8 rounds. Tripp mags are king here. For .45, I use anything. My gun has had no issues with Shooting Star $7.00 mags, ACT,, Ed Brown, Metalform, Joes1911magmania.com mags or anything else I've used in it.

My caveat here is check the Springfield pistol carefully before buying. Their QC is sketchy. I bought a Loaded Target 9mm in 2015 and it was loose and rattly. Internals were complete garbage and it had more sharp edges than a Swiss Champ pocket knife (that's the one with a whole lotta blades on it). Spent another $500.00 (not including discretionary parts like grips, magwell or front sight) getting it to its current condition, basically I paid $1,000.00 for a frame, slide, grip safety, and rear sight. So I paid $1,500.00 for a nice gun that still doesn't have front strap checkering. Only original parts left are frame, slide, rear sight, extractor, ejector, (surprisingly it was well-fit and has given me no problems in about 10k rounts), firing pin and firing pin spring. And Springfield insists on using that goofy .220" grip safety radius, making replacing that part a challenge. If I had to do it again, I'd go with the PM9. Even with the California mark-up, I'd have a better gun for very little more than I spent making the Springfield gun almost as nice.

Thinking its something to do with the sear/hammer interface during reset when trigger is in rearmost position. Try (with no ammo in gun) racking slide with trigger held back, let trigger go forward then engage safety and see what happens.

Didn't do it at LAMR, just at the end of the stage? And I'm assuming it did it on the Las stage you got to shoot on the first instance, and the first stage the next match, right? In other words, is it happening every time you engage the safety at the end of a stage, but not at LAMR?

Had both. 5" looks better. Other than that, no tangible difference to me.

Got mine with the Shield RMS 8 MOA dot. It looks like it belongs in the gun, though the small glass takes some practice to get used to. I have Dawson's low sights which will co-witness at the bottom of the glass, but not anywhere the middle. Works for me cause co-witness on a game gun is a waste of time. I have a Delta point Pro I was going to install on the gun, but I like the RMS so I haven't bothered changing it. I only wish Shield used better glass.

I like the checkering, but if you can get it after for $125.00, it becomes a moot point. You will want to refinish the gun after or it'll look like crap. I'm not a gun aesthetics snob, but unfinished machine work makes it look like an unfinished gun. The Elite Target has what they call Black T finish, getting this refinishied will probably bring you right up to the PM9 price. From what I understand the PM9 comes with all tool steel parts, where the Springfield Armory will have junk for internals (in my experience). I also hear the PM9 has excellent frame to slide, slide to bushing, slide to barrel and bushing to barrel fit. Springfield is hit and miss, again more miss than hit in my experience. Springfield also has the weird BTGS radius, so if you want to change that part, good luck finding one that works. The PM9 costs $1,340.00, and nothing else. The Springfield charges you $840.00, but that's the entry price. You will be spending more on it down the road to get it where the PM9 starts. That's just my opinion.

Have on on an M&P since December. No issues so far. Nice dot, 8 MOA with no starbursting. Still running the original battery. Only drawback is the small glass, but it hasn't bothered me as much as I thought it would.

It sticks fine to the CORE backstrap, same one you pictured. Prep is key, tape anywhere you don't want glue or silicon carbide. I also did an AR9 grip and an STI. Gets easier every time.

2 part epoxy and silicon carbide grit. I did mine, it's as trippy as anybody could want, looks good and cost about $15.00 for enough to do a bunch of guns.