robertg5322

No, 8 rounds, or 9 in the Tripps. I have a 9mm 1911, so I see no reason to shoot the .40 for minor power factor.

Mine had issues until I installed the Taccom ramp. ATI (NFA clone) lower, NFA side charging upper, barrel is from the ATI. Once i put the ramp in it started working great.

I have a .40 I built, uses normal length loads, feeds fine in Checkmate, Joemagmania.com, Tripp, some unknown brand and a Wilson. I had to add the spacer and Tripp follower to the Wilson to get it to work, but nothing else. A 9mm Springfirld Loaded works fine with Metalform mags. Used them first, they work, they're affordable, so I felt no need to try others, though I have no doubt itll work with whichever mag I put in it. The .40 took some tweaking to make it work but the 9mm was reliable out of the box.

Glock mag lowers have this issue. The round had a bit of travel with no guidance to get to the chamber. I had the same issues (bullet dents, setback, etc.) until I installed the Taccom feed ramp. It makes a huge difference. If you have one, look at a Colt mag lower. There is a ramp that feeds the round from the magazine to the chamber. No such animal in a Glock mag lower. JP seems to have dealt with this in their Glock mag lowers, but no others I know of have. It may work, but the round is bouncing off the back of the barrel as often as not. The Taccom feedramp is cheap and works (at least it worked for my NFA lower).

But if it stops happening completely when you change mad brands, it's pretty safe to assume something in the magazine (out if spec follower or slide stop?) was the issue. I'm not one who thinks any 1911 should be magazine specific. If it is, there's something that needs fixing, and I fix it. Of course magazine follower could be what needs "fixing", and sometimes it's easier to just buy mags that work.

They're not under the hammer so don'⁸t worry. That said, it'd be prudent to not he looking into the cylinder while knocking the bullet back... Just sayin'

36-40 is way more coarse than Talon Grips. Try something in the 70-80 range. Not cause I know anything, but I use 36-47 and it's coarse. Way more coarse than Talon grips, which I like. I'm assuming, based on nothing other than the voices in my head that 70-80 is a bit less coarse. I also like Talon grips, I wish they made decals for 1911 smooth wood grips.

I'll add; I don't remove them unless it cannot be detected. Not for some nebulous liability or gamer reason, but because my OCD won't let me leave empty holes on parts where there was once a part sticking through if it can be avoided. On the Kimber I converted to .40S&W, I had no choice as the .40 S&W slide was Series 70 configuration (no provision for FPS). The gun could never be converted back to its original configuration unless I got a ramped barrel in .45ACP. so it has a small hole where the Kimber FPS activator comes up, just in front of the disconnector. I trimmed the nib off the activator, had to keep it in the gun as a spacer. I did end up finding a ramped .45 barrel (wasn't looking, someone had one for sale at a good price so I got it) and bought a replacement FPS activator so if I wanted to I could change the gun back to .45 by changing the ejector and putting the .45 top end on it. Nice to have options, and nice to sooth the OCD with low cost stuff.

17 round versions don't drop free from my Glocks. Seemed to work well enough other than this fatal flaw Got them for $8.00 each a few years ago, now I use them to make PCC mounts on my cart.

How about an eight shot array after an unloaded start? With three more eight shot arrays?

Had a Kimber with it's version. Never had an issue, though the Schwartz system doesn't affect trigger pull. Converted the gun to .40S&W, using an STI slide so had to disable the FPS. I don't feel less safe with the gun in it's current configuration.

If you're having to move your thumb to hit the slide stop, it's costing something. Not much, but something. I'm not trying to change the way you do your thing, just noting that auto-forward is always going to be better and should be engineered into every gun.

Ummm yeah, but as one who has shot longer than guns with left handed slide stops have been widely available, and considering the fact that not all guns have ambi slide stops, I'm not crazy about creating muscle memory that may not serve me on another gun (1911, Glock). Auto forward requires me to do nothing but insert a mag. It's the ultimate upgrade to any gun, and benefits right handed shooters as much as left handed shooters. Like mag catches. Almost all guns have some option for switching it, but it's easier to continue using my strong hand middle finger than train my thumb and have issues when I use a gun that isn't reversible.

Yeah that's my point. As a left handed shooter, having the slide auto forward is a huge time saver over contorting my trigger finger to try and reach the slide stop, or racking the slide to release it. I wish every gun was designed to do it, and can't understand why every gun isn't designed to do it.

1.125"

If they work, go with them. I use .40 mags and load to factory length in both SS and LTD (Caspian High Cap frame and mags) with no issues. I have a bunch of other than Tripp single stack mags and they work well. I had to change the guts on a couple of Checkmate mags to Tripp follower and spring to get them reliable. And I had issues with a Wilson Combat mag, had to put a spacer and Tripp guts to make it work. For those reasons, I stick to Tripp for .40 S&W 1911 mags.

Tried Wilson, Checkmate, Tripp, and a few others. Tripp were the only ones that didn't need any work to function.

Been using them for the past year. Work great, batteries are no issue. I'm never going back to over the ear muffs.

Disclosure: I don't own a JP rifle. I do own two other AR 9mm rifles. And like I said, they take work to get running right. Buy once, cry once.

When all is said and done, you're probably going to be into it for as much as a JP costs. And the JP works right out of the box (at least the ones I know of do).

I've had mixed results over eight Glocks. Bar-Sto in a G35 made a huge difference. Storm Lake in a G34 made a big difference. Storm Lake in a G21 made no perceptible difference but allowed me to shoot lead. My oldest Glock, a 2007 G17 is the most accurate Gglock I have. A KKM barrel was not as accurate as the stock barrel. I got to the point where I would only replace barrels if the gun seemed to have accuracy issues.Glock barrels are usually pretty accurate, my G34 being the exception. The G35 I changed to shoot lead, the accuracy increase was a bonus.

Primary Bruce said send it in. Another cat says that's a good idea. Contact him or do a basic internet search of Primary Bruce and you'll probably see he knows what hes talking about. Or don't.

I get that, the times were for the sake of the argument. That said, we all at some time or another run dry. It costs time, it makes you yell at the gun during the stage (as if it's the gun's fault for not changing magazines before it runs dry), and it is annoying. Having the slide auto-forward (if it's reliable) after a magazine is sent into the gun is a benefit. One less thing to have to do to get up and shooting again. Anything that can be done automatically is probably going to be faster than if I have to initiate the action. That said, I still have my thumb on the slide stop when inserting the magazine, so if for some reason it doesn't auto forward, the action of the bun being pushed up against the thumb will send it home. As I shoot left handed, this last part only works on ambidextrous guns or guns where the slide stop on the right side of the gun is far enough forward that my trigger finger can get to it.

It's the extractor roll pin.

As other have pointed out, the truth is you only really need one 23 + 1 magazine, the one you start with. There are no USPSA approved stages that should require more than 32 hits, so if you're doing it right, the second magazine shouldn't even need the 17 rounds a standard Glock magazine holds. That said, who among us doesn't have a ton of magazines laying around for the guns we shoot? An extension or three isn't that much once you realize you just spent $500.00 or so to have your slide machined and buy an optic. I've had Arredondo extensions on Glock mags, same mags, same extensions since 2011. I have no idea how many rounds have been run through them, but they've never failed. They look like hell from being dropped so many times, but still work. Also got a bunch of TTI extensions on some M&P mags, same result. I've seen a bunch of cats using Magpul or ETS mags and they seem to have no issues either. If I was doing it over, I'd like to say I'd do two Glock mags with extensions and the rest for CO would be Magpul 21 round mags, but my OCD would probably make me configure four G17 mags with extensions because that's how many fit in a California Competition Works magazine carrier sleeve, it's more than I'd need in any match, and I"m weird that way.