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gittist

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About gittist

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  1. I put in Wolff springs. No improvement. I attempted to tune the lips and all I got for my effort was that I broke the lip on one magazine. Little improvement on the others. Of the 4 mags the one that works the best is the broken one? The slide rams the round into the top of the chamber at about a 45 degree angle for rounds that are in the middle of the magazine. My local gunsmith who unfortunately for me has retired, said that it's probably the magazines and to try different manufacturers. I bought the pistol and magazines in 2011. Has anyone had any good luck with other manufacturers? And, would it be a waste of money to try a 10-round mag?
  2. Update: Mec-Gar replied with an offer to exchange the mags however I will pass on that for now. After attempting to use this weapon at a competition a few years ago, it became a hanger (safe?) queen due to the problems. I've fired several rounds through it in the last few days and unfortunately all of the mags have similar issues, both the Mec-Gar and Para mags (which are also made in Italy so they're probably also Mec-Gar). They all go to slide lock with one round slightly forward, and all have FTF in the 'middle' of the mag. Suggestions?
  3. I have a P14.45. The para mags work flawlessly no matter what the bullet profile is. The two Mec-Gar don't; no matter what the bullet profile.. The two Mec-Gars have identical issues. Both will go to slide lock with one round fully seated still in the mag every time. The other issue is that somewhere between 3 and 9 rounds in the mag, the round will not feed all the way in and the gun jams. Rounds 8. 7. 6...will do this and then for the remainder the gun will load until it goes to slide lock with one round left. I tried Mec-Gar but they didn't answer.
  4. I reload on a Dillon RL550. I came across some Ammoload 9mm brass that has the step inside the case when reloading this morning. The case stops almost 1/8 inch short of going all the way into the sizing/decapping die with normal pressure on the lever. Has anyone had good success in resizing this brass? For now it's going to the scrap bucket. Maybe if I get a couple hundred I'll adjust the dies, reload them, and then shoot them someplace where I don't pick up brass. I have a place in mind..I swear that if they'd let her, there's a woman who'd run around with a butterfly net catching your brass out of midair because 'they reload".
  5. M&P Pro 9: When reloading, the slide will often go forward on the reload, but not always. I like that when shooting in a competition. As near as I can tell it's not always the same magazine. I'd like it to do that every time. Any suggestions?
  6. MEK.....I remember the paint locker smell from my squadron days. Someone mentioned that an electrical smell may indicate the the bullets weren't baked enough. I shot some rounds off today and noticed that smell, just like the smell I used to get when the fuel pump relay went in my VW. I'll try the MEK this weekend. Thanks.
  7. 5.x gr of W231 (it's either 5.1 or 5.3, I'm too lazy at the moment to go downstairs and look :-)
  8. Assuming what I've described is one of then barrel issue mentioned above, what do I use to get the barrel clean? The coating is hard enough that I can't scrape if off with a fingernail but I can with the side of the screwdriver blade on my Swiss Army knife. Normal? Someone else asked if I was sure it was the coating in the barrel and not lead. I went shooting this morning with a 9mm and a .40, and both barrels were clean. The only coated bullets I had were 9mm. I shot plated and then lead through the .40. The .40 barrel is now clean, the 9mm isn't.
  9. I pulled a couple of bullets and you can see the crimp line but that's it. There are two nicks on one of the bullets where the bullet hit the rubber bottom of the puller and bounced back at the case. Other that that there is no lead showing. There were no shavings from having too small of a bell prior to pulling. The pic was too large to upload...
  10. I loaded up a bunch of 124 gr bullets and it seems that getting the Hi-tek coating out of the barrel is worse than lead. On my SCCY CPX 2 the lans have a residue that won't come off with #9 or with a .40 brush. I had similar issues with my M & P but at least it came clean using a larger brush. Has anyone else had similar experiences? Will shooting a lead or plated bullet it though maybe clear it up? Just a thought... Thanks,
  11. Is there an appreciable difference in pistol accuracy between loading at the starting load v. the max load? For example, the reloading data for a 155 gr BERB FP has a starting load of 5.1 grains of W231 for a velocity of 979 fps. The max load listed is 6.0 grains of W231 with a velocity of 1130 FPS. Will I notice anything in regards to accuracy at the 25 yard line between these two loads? Thanks.
  12. Hi, My 'old' .40 Witness went back to the online retailer due to a broken slide and they replaced it with a newer model . It's squarish like a 1911 and has a light rail. I'd like to get a Safariland holster for it ( I have two of them for other guns and like them). Does anyone know if the 5188 is a suitable for this gun? My Fobus SG-21 does fit it if that is of any help. Thanks
  13. I just dropped off my Wonderfinish .40 Witness at the gun shop that I picked it up from and supposedly the online retailer is sending a replacement. The thin part of the slide below the ejection port cracked all the way through.
  14. Another EAA wonder-finish .40 Witness with a broken slide. The thin strip right below the ejection port is broken all the way through. I purchased it in 2007 and think it was a 2005 batch due to the label on the box. I didn't shoot it much b/c of not finding a lot of the brass and the complaining of 3 or 4 people to the right of me on the firing line. I think I put less than 1,000 rounds through it and field stripped it after each shoot. The weapon was returned to the gun shop that I picked it up from and apparently the online retailer is honoring their lifetime guarantee and shipping a new one. Are the newer ones better?
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