Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

gittist

Members
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Schuylkill County Pennsylvania

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

gittist's Achievements

Looks for Range

Looks for Range (1/11)

  1. I know people say not to reload aluminum cases. After trying I'll agree that it's not worth the effort due to split cases. I wondering if NEW aluminum cases would be different? I'm looking for new cases due to two scenarios. The first is while I was shooting a match I swear that if they had let her, one of the shooter's partners would have been catching my brass out of mid-air with a butterfly net. When I said something I got a surly "we reload..". My response was "So do I and I'd like a chance to pick up my own brass." The second scenario is the 'lost brass' matches where the brass belongs to the range as soon as it leaves your weapon (or where they make it so incredibly inconvenient to pick it up). I won't care if it's aluminum or Berdan primed brass. So is there a source for either new aluminum or Berdan cases? 9MM, .40, or .45?
  2. Where can I find more info on this class? I checked the range website and didn't find much.
  3. Thanks for the replies but I finally got it in and looking at the marks on the frame I wonder if the factory had it installed correctly. My single sided safety has a hole all the way through the shaft, The top 75% or so of it is drilled wider than the other 25%. The plunger of course is wider at the top than the bottom to match the hole in the shaft. What was throwing me off was that the plunger wouldn't easily go into the wide part of the hole and have the narrower part stick out on the other side which in the end is what I got it to do. I had to fiddle with it with it almost on until not only the narrow part of the plunger lined up with the smaller hole, but the wider part lined up. I also think that either the hole or the plunger isn't 'true', maybe due to wear and tear? Note to self: don't ever take it apart again!!!
  4. I have a steel EAA Witness. To do a little extra cleaning before putting it away for the season I took out the sear assembly. Now that everything is nice and clean I can't get the safety to click back into the frame. It seems that the plunger and spring on the safety prevent it from snapping back in. I tried pressing it in while toying with the safety but no luck. Without the plunger it will go right in, with and without the sear assembly. I tried installing the safety without the sear assembly but it won't go in. The spring that you need to move is 'moved'. Has anyone dealt with this before? Solution? thanks
  5. I put in Wolff springs. No improvement. I attempted to tune the lips and all I got for my effort was that I broke the lip on one magazine. Little improvement on the others. Of the 4 mags the one that works the best is the broken one? The slide rams the round into the top of the chamber at about a 45 degree angle for rounds that are in the middle of the magazine. My local gunsmith who unfortunately for me has retired, said that it's probably the magazines and to try different manufacturers. I bought the pistol and magazines in 2011. Has anyone had any good luck with other manufacturers? And, would it be a waste of money to try a 10-round mag?
  6. Update: Mec-Gar replied with an offer to exchange the mags however I will pass on that for now. After attempting to use this weapon at a competition a few years ago, it became a hanger (safe?) queen due to the problems. I've fired several rounds through it in the last few days and unfortunately all of the mags have similar issues, both the Mec-Gar and Para mags (which are also made in Italy so they're probably also Mec-Gar). They all go to slide lock with one round slightly forward, and all have FTF in the 'middle' of the mag. Suggestions?
  7. I have a P14.45. The para mags work flawlessly no matter what the bullet profile is. The two Mec-Gar don't; no matter what the bullet profile.. The two Mec-Gars have identical issues. Both will go to slide lock with one round fully seated still in the mag every time. The other issue is that somewhere between 3 and 9 rounds in the mag, the round will not feed all the way in and the gun jams. Rounds 8. 7. 6...will do this and then for the remainder the gun will load until it goes to slide lock with one round left. I tried Mec-Gar but they didn't answer.
  8. I reload on a Dillon RL550. I came across some Ammoload 9mm brass that has the step inside the case when reloading this morning. The case stops almost 1/8 inch short of going all the way into the sizing/decapping die with normal pressure on the lever. Has anyone had good success in resizing this brass? For now it's going to the scrap bucket. Maybe if I get a couple hundred I'll adjust the dies, reload them, and then shoot them someplace where I don't pick up brass. I have a place in mind..I swear that if they'd let her, there's a woman who'd run around with a butterfly net catching your brass out of midair because 'they reload".
  9. M&P Pro 9: When reloading, the slide will often go forward on the reload, but not always. I like that when shooting in a competition. As near as I can tell it's not always the same magazine. I'd like it to do that every time. Any suggestions?
  10. MEK.....I remember the paint locker smell from my squadron days. Someone mentioned that an electrical smell may indicate the the bullets weren't baked enough. I shot some rounds off today and noticed that smell, just like the smell I used to get when the fuel pump relay went in my VW. I'll try the MEK this weekend. Thanks.
  11. 5.x gr of W231 (it's either 5.1 or 5.3, I'm too lazy at the moment to go downstairs and look :-)
  12. Assuming what I've described is one of then barrel issue mentioned above, what do I use to get the barrel clean? The coating is hard enough that I can't scrape if off with a fingernail but I can with the side of the screwdriver blade on my Swiss Army knife. Normal? Someone else asked if I was sure it was the coating in the barrel and not lead. I went shooting this morning with a 9mm and a .40, and both barrels were clean. The only coated bullets I had were 9mm. I shot plated and then lead through the .40. The .40 barrel is now clean, the 9mm isn't.
  13. I pulled a couple of bullets and you can see the crimp line but that's it. There are two nicks on one of the bullets where the bullet hit the rubber bottom of the puller and bounced back at the case. Other that that there is no lead showing. There were no shavings from having too small of a bell prior to pulling. The pic was too large to upload...
  14. I loaded up a bunch of 124 gr bullets and it seems that getting the Hi-tek coating out of the barrel is worse than lead. On my SCCY CPX 2 the lans have a residue that won't come off with #9 or with a .40 brush. I had similar issues with my M & P but at least it came clean using a larger brush. Has anyone else had similar experiences? Will shooting a lead or plated bullet it though maybe clear it up? Just a thought... Thanks,
×
×
  • Create New...