robertg5322

But why bother if his current load works in both his guns? Same question for .40 S&W. I have a Caspian High Cap Limited gun and a Kimber I turned into a .40 S&W Single Stack. Both run on factory length .40 S&W ammo, I see no need to throat the barrels. Is there some reason other than function to run longer than normal ammo?

I did contact him when my first two didn't work. Second two were loose. I fixed the first two, and they work wemm enough. Not slamming Resurgent, just stating facts. The grip is first rate in mil-spec lowers, not on New Frontier lowers though

Got one set up with the Magpul MIAD grip and the Strike Industries Grip Fin, the other with a Resurgent Arms grip. The safety lever leave a bit to be desired, the detent is mushy and it feels loose, and required quite a bit of fitting (the flat was to high, had to file it down quite a bit), but it works for now. Next year I'll be leaving the state, and that stuff will be a bad memory.

Firing pin is like other 9mm AR firing pins. I use Rock River Arms replacements.

It's a decent upper, lower and barrel. I prefer a side charger, so I changed the upper, but there was nothing wrong with the OEM upper. Trigger was crap. Bolt works fine, but seems a bit hard on firing pins if you dry fire. The tip breaks off. Haven't been able to figure out why. No burs, the firing pin hole is centered, and nothing seems wrong, except if I dry fire it more than maybe 25 times, it breaks the tip off the firing pin. I have a Taccom bolt on order, hopefully it helps. Handguard could be longer (15" on a 16" barrel seems to be the preferred configuration), but it's a decent piece otherwise. I had a squbfest at a match and bulged the last three inches of barrel. I cut it to 10", pinned and welded an .75" ID aluminum tube on the flat where the gas block would be if it had one and it's now much lighter in front and feels really nice. No perceivable loss of muzzle velocity, so my loads stay the same.

I have a 9mm Springfield 1911 with so much play between the slide and rails that it rattled like a baby toy. I made it a project. EGW angle bored bushing and slide stop with pin diameter of .203 helped, but there was still vertical play on the barrel when in battery. I found a Kart barrel on sale, fit that just right (you can feel the barrel unlock, but it wasn't "hard fit") and it's now a laser. When in battery, you can't feel any movement at all, even though I've done nothing to correct the sloppy frame to slide fit. I've read that frame to slide fit isn't nearly as critical as barrel to bushing to slide, and barrel lugs to slide stop are correctly fit. This gun demonstrates that to me. Yes it's nice when the frame is fit to the slide correctly, but apparently that's not critical for accuracy.

Actually according to patent drawings, Browning had a grip safety and no thumb safety.

Sloppy Slide, that was my porn name in a previous life.

I cut my barrel down to 10", after a squibfest that resulted in two bulges. Got some 3/4" (ID) aluminum tube which fit perfectly over the place where the gas block would have been, pinned and welded to 16.1". Lost almost no velocity and gun is way light in the nose. Aestheticly, I like the look of the fat tube sticking out of the handguard.

Interesting in that he did the opposite with the High Power.

Still kind of pricey if I already have the grips I want, Dawson gives you the MSH and charges $95.00. Just wish Dawson had an option with the front open so you could swipe mags out if they get stuck.

Lately I've been drilling and tapping the bottom of the grip safety and installing a set-screw there with blue locktite (222). Easily reversible, less likely to drill into the mainspring hole and the pin isn't rattling around.

Yeah, there's that.

At least with 2011 mags you get 20+ rounds. I hate the idea of paying up to $35.00 for a magazine and needing to dump another $14.00 to get it to work with my gun. ;The Dawson IPSC magwell works well enough, and doesn't cost $150.00 like the Techwell. I do like the Techwell TGO though. Just wish it wasn't so expensive.

It'd be perfect if it didn't require you to buy six basepads @ $14.00 each.

That's just mean.

I got a 1911 slide, frame, BTGS, slide stop and ambi safeties done for $200.00. Took another slide and frame and got the returning customer price of $100.00. Both basic black. Both looked great. Both show wear at muzzle end of slide, top of slide and trigger guard. Exactly fly where my Glocks and M&Ps show wear. Any coating will wear, some faster than others. Cerakote is better than a rattle can, but not indestructable. I'm in Califirnia, so theres a layer of dust in my holster which probably made the wear happen incrementally faster. Don't care enough to wipe down my holster, ever. In fact I kind of like the wear. Like a patina earned through honest use. if you want your gun to beimmaculate, don't use it.

You get really sweet wear patterns that give your gun the "I'm a gun that gets used" look. Mostly along the muzzle end of the slide and along the top of the slide and trigger guard area. I really like this look. If you don't, maybe hard chrome is for you.

Talk to other shooters, these forums, YouTube. In that order. Know your limitations and be skeptical

If you shoot Single Stack, decide what's important to you, and understand your ability to work on it. Even a $5,000.00 custom gun will need attention. That said, the Sig Max and Dan Wesson come with quality parts. You will probably still need to tune and polish it to get it where you want it, but you probably wont be upgrading many parts. With regard to Series 80 or Schwartz (sp?) firing pin safeties, take them out or leave them in. Either way the gun can be made to work well if you know what you're doing. Springfield has a great customer service reputation built on a crap QC reputation. Some swear by them. I've found them to be poorly fitted, have lots of sharp edges and junk internals. YMMV, like I said, some cats have had nothing but good experiences with them. Same with Kimber. I've shot a bunch of them and owned a few. Never had an issue. Other dudes, not so much. One thing I like about Sig is they give you front strap checkering. Yes, grip tape works, but checkering is so much nicer looking. You'll have to be able to live with the funky slide though. If I was starting over, I'd go with the Sig. Yeah, you need a specific holster, but what's that, $60.00? Non issue. Especially if you don't already have a bunch of 1911s and holsters already.

I like the Dawson OPSC magwell. You don't need $13.00 mag based and it gives a nice, wide opening that's hard to miss. Added bonus, its les expensive than anything from Techwell

For 10 round 9mm mags I've had excellent luck with Metalform. Inexpensive, they work and they last. Brownells also sells 10 round 9mm mags that get good reviews, and it's been said that they're Metalform mags with a black coating. I ha e no way of verifying this. Just what I e read on the interwebz mb

Flat wire spring is what the WC site says. I've never had enough issues with cheap .45 magazines to make me want to spend premium money on them. Is magazine rigidity, or dirt getting into them an issue with you? That would be the only reason I could see to spend the extra coin. Funny how cutting a process out of the manufacturing increases the price.

If it runs with your buddies same mags, take the refund and buy them again. Easier than chasing problems. Or see if your mags work in your buddies gun. If yes, trade with him. If no, see first recommendation

My point on the Sig Max is That the internals are quality parts. They may need a bit of polish/tuning/touch-up, but you don't have to buy them. Plus you get a quality coating, Ice magwell and front strap checkering. Even having to tune trigger, that's a pretty good deal. I don't own a Sig, I just like the features you get on them, especially the Max.