MemphisMechanic

@Tirppa play with the slide. Push the block into the slide by hand and see when the firing pin passes it, and when it doesn’t. But yes. The sear leg holds the block in the depressed-into-slide position and blocks the firing pin from moving forward. When the trigger is pulled the block moves back out and the pathway is clear. Glocks, M&Ps, Walthers, and most striker guns work the opposite: as you pull the trigger the striker block is raised upward into the slide. This moves the block out of the striker’s path.

Which is a much better way to do things, honestly. Makes it easy to create much more interesting stage designs without assembling a dozen barrels or as many yards of wall section.

Use red. Not blue. Just warm it up with a heat gun if you ever need to remove it.

Thanks for sharing this. Bookmarking in case I decide to add a camera to mine.

Agreed. If I were shooting distance in a match I’d abandon my soft, flat handgun ammo and load some screaming high-quality 115gr FMJs to both (1) hunt for more accuracy and (2) flatten my trajectory out some. I’ve shot my coated-bullet USPSA loads against some quality 115 +P factory JHP ammo through my PCC. Group sizes are drastically smaller at just 25 yds. Sure, it’d slow you down a second or so with dot bounce on up-close arrays, but you’d make up for it on the longrange stuff than can sasily add up over 30 seconds.

You absolutely need to shoot your ammo through your own gun before this match if you want to be able to hit anything consistently.

Handgun matches are more fun to shoot with a handgun. I liked shooting PCC long enough to learn to run & gun with the AR platform, but... (see first sentence.)

Easy. 3.8gr titegroup, 1.100” OAL or longer, 124 gr coated bullet. Load to the longer end of what chambers in your gun. Solid well known load, runs around 125-130 pf and is very much subsonic. You’ll see minimal velocity differences between 1.100” and 1.130” with that load, just a few FPS. Consider getting the barrel cut to let you load longer, too. I did all of my Walthers and can feed them even the grumpiest 147 out to 1.145” now.

I ran Ghost pouches for two years. Racers are superior. The only advantage Ghost pouches have is fitting nearly every doublestack mag out there without changing anything. (If you run two leaf springs and no dorky nylon setscrews.)

Not true. Firearm manipulation requires a good deal of coordination and starting with your more coordianted hand is a huge advantage. You need look no further than the hit factors for everyone shooting a stronghand vs a weakhand string to prove that. (I’m a right eye dominant lefthanded shooter who runs both rifles and handguns lefthanded despite the “handicap. This topic is relevant to my direct experience) Rob Leatham and Dave Sevigny are among the dominant handgun shooters in the sport who are cross-dominant and switched eyes instead of hands. I’m not advocating a dominance change. You are: training your body into a state it doesn’t inherently prefer by learning a task with the weak hand. I have a dominant hand, and a dominant eye. I’m simply lining the two up by moving the gun over 3/4 inch. This is the obvious and logical solution, and it’s extremely commin. I’ve met Tom. I don’t care for his perspective on many outdated things, while absolutely he’s brilliant on others. And if cross dominance had ever come up I’d say so openly.

That’s crazy talk. There’s no reason to retrain yourself to do things with your less-coordinated hand. Simply move the gun over 3/4” or rotate your head slightly, and it’s in front of the other eye. It’s astonishing how often this topic comes up, and how complicated people make it.

I ditched the XD dots that a previous owner had on my PPQ carry gun for a set of Truglo TFX’s. They’re the best option out there. Tritium and fiber optic. I can’t shoot a sub 3 in group at 7yd with the XS dots - they’re just too vague. Put the conventional notch and posts back on and boom. One ragged hole again.

@3bob if you’re not running one, install a conefit guide rod and run 6, 8, or 9 lb spring for tens of thousands of rounds without issue. That’s what the rest of us do.

Yes, but that’s primarily related to internal fitting of parts; safeties, disconnectors, and the like. Hell, Tanfo can’t even get the depth of the hammer spring pocket consistent. But... The cone-fit barrel and the fitting of the upper have been very consistent on every Stock 2 that I’ve encountered. The very nature of a cone barrel allows for far more accuracy with the same degree of machining consistency than a bushing design. That’s why it’s desireable. I’ve never seen a Stock II fail to be a tack driver with quality ammo, regardless of how it was tuned/modified internally. I can’t comment on the CZ side of things from personal experience, but all the Shadow 2s I’ve seen run at matches had happy owners. I firmly believe both guns are great and neither has some inherent mechanical advantage. Shoot both. Buy the one that feels more like it was molded specifically for your hand - for me that was a Tanfo. For a lot of others it’s a Shadow 2.

Well. A far easier task (recognizing CZ hammers) got all external aftermarket racehammers, racemagbuttons, racethumbrests, and racetriggers declared legal in Production. I guess next we’re gonna get aftermarket raceframes. Thanks so much for pointing the obvious out.

No. But the home reloader who runs through 20k a year or so will need far FAR fewer 1050 parts. I replaced certain things a few times each on my 650 in the process of running it for a decade. The 1050 is substantially heavier. I always thought my 650 was solid, but it’s obvious when you make the switch that the 1050 is intended to load thousands of rounds day after day after day. Everything I’d wear out or break on my 650 is now a roller vs a ramp, is much beefier, or is entirely redesigned. Both presses have their flaws. Reloading innovations, InLine Fab, FFB, and other websites make $$$ upgrades/fixes for a reason. I’m not blind to that - I use some of those great products on both presses. But the lack of a lifetime warranty on the 1050 isn’t causing me much loss of sleep.

For the record, I loaded on a 650 with all the add-ons from 2008-2017. This used to be me. I’ve run a 1050 for a year now, and... You are wrong. Even setting aside other advantages (like the priming system keeping your next primer waiting forever while you index the press to clear a jam - no more ski jump) the 1050 is worth it just for the extra leverage. I swear it takes 50% of the effort to cycle a 1050 as a 650. Same dies, same lubed 9mm brass. Loading 1,000 - 2,000 rounds is so much more friendly to my right shoulder and elbow. If I were to do it over, I’d buy a 550 to learn and then jump directly to the 1050. Mostly because I’d love to have my 1050, and a 550 laying around for small batches of odd stuff.

Leave. They’ll find someone to replace you. Then return and enjoy shooting the match.

@SilverBolt was referring to your “hands relaxed at sides” Or in your case, “hands positioned as if pull-starting an imaginary lawnmower” But there are others out there with far more interesting interpretations on it than you, too:

If your machinist is good, the optic is press-fit into the slide. There is no gap at all. My PPQ has a .001” interference fit. As the gun recoils the screws/dowels with a plate type setup are the only things holding the optic into place. With a milled slide it’s more like an iron sight pressed into it’s dovetail. Anecdotally, optics have been said to last longer with a properly milled slide. I have 5-6,000+ on a DPP, which is well above where many of them have failed

Send me a rear and let me know how much deeper you want it.

Looks good! Keep us posted.

Turn the outer halo in the holosun on. Whichever green dot isn’t aligned with the halo gets ignored. Like Rowdy said, it makes sense to have the laser sighted for close headshots, so it’ll be low and easy to tell apart. (And I cannot imagine the laser will be even half as bright as a green 510c is when turned up to full power in an outdoor situation. The difference in brightness should help.)

The spirit of the rules says this is true. Examples: * Your shot need only touch the perf, not be wholly inside of it. * Your foot can be 99.7% over the fault line, just not touching the ground outside of it. However, in this situation? Most guys get too dogmatic with that phrase. If the RO is certain what he saw before you punched your first hole in the target, or in some other way is 100% certain which holes are yours? Then there is zero “doubt” from which the shooter can “benefit.” However, it is also true that the correct response of an RO who inwardly wants to stubbornly say that “I’m pretty sure the last shooter had...” is to admit he’s not totally certain, and order a reshoot. As an RO it’s important to be firm - if you saw it and you know you saw it, say you saw it and stick to your guns. But it is also important to be fair; never lose sight of your job. It’s not to make shooters behave a certain way. It is to allow all the competitors to have a fun match which is scored fairly and whose rules are enforced in line with the rulebook. Even the sections you don’t personally like.

How I handled the springs in mine: This one fed great.