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ck1

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About ck1

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    Chip Karpells

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  1. ^^^That is something worth thinking about! If you haven't thought about it yet, you will, but try to filter out some of the spookiness of the dreaded double-charge and/or squib-load that could happen by knowing yourself and being comfortable with what press you pick to work with. The 550 is a solid press, many guys never sell them because they're so bombproof and can do many calibers without it costing a whole lot for caliber conversions. BUT, you need to inform yourself about the differences between a manual-indexing press and an auto-indexing press: because, while the 550 is 'technically" a progressive press because all the dies/stations can being doing different tasks at the same time and the shell plate moves, there are many (including myself) that don't really consider it a truly progressive press because it isn't auto-indexing and doesn't move/turn the cases for you with each pull of the handle. So, if you were to pull the handle to charge powder, then, let's say, get a text from work or something that distracts you for a minute, then you go back to the press and pull the handle again without indexing/moving/advancing the shell plate: if you don't catch it before you seat the bullet, bam, double-charge, a KABOOM is coming. Or, you're in the middle of 100 rounds starting to pull the handle on a powder drop and the phone rings, then you finish your call and go back to the press and instinctively advance/move the shell plate without dropping powder (you don't want a double-charge after all), again, don't catch it before you seat the bullet: you've made an empty primed-case that is either a loud snap-cap or if a little powder dropped into it, potentially a squib. A manual-index press requires your complete and total attention or bad things can happen (...like all firearms related stuff really lol). If you can trust yourself with the responsibility of always keeping track of what's going on where, and always remembering when to (and when not to) advance the shellplate, then the 550 is probably the best thing out there for the money. Now, a lot of guys may say an auto-indexing press is too much for a beginner, but I don't agree. IMO, if anything, an auto-indexing press can add a margin of safety as it advances/moves the cases with every pull of the handle, so one has to actually go out of their way to fak things up and intervene by removing and replacing cases to set up a double-charge or to miss dropping powder in a case... which can totally happen, like if your fixing an issue or something, but if you train yourself to be carful and respectful of what you're doing the moving shell plate usually helps. Really with both types of presses you should visually verify your powder drops, if it seems wonky, dump it, don't take chances. (Some powders are harder to see/verify than others which is what OdenIII was talking about above: a powder like Titegroup doesn't fill the cases much, so it might be easier too miss a double-charge, whereas some others fill the case a bunch and a double-charge would spill over and be obvious). I just feel like a manual-index press requires more resolve to avoid screwing yourself accidentally lol. Just something you should consider. Chances are you'll end up with an auto-indexing press at some point anyway, so again, don't be afraid to spend more to get more. I'd recommend taking a hard look at an XL750, you can buy the case feeder when you can afford it (a when, not an if), and you won't outgrow it for a long time, if ever. A used 650 is also a great suggestion, though their priming systems are a little more unkind to beginners as it's "prime all the time" instead of "prime on demand". I know it was mentioned earlier, but it bears repeating, the Dillon presses hold most of their value or sometimes actually appreciate (a Super 1050 was $1500 10 years ago, now they're $2000, same machine), so while it might hurt a little in the short term, it may be worth spending a little more than your planned budget to grab something you won't have to upgrade from or can one day sell without really losing much.
  2. ^^^ this is really good advice and well stated. I was where you're at until just over a month ago... I just bought my 9mm ammo because it was fairly affordable to do so, right up until it wasn't (and when/if I could find it) lol. Plus, this past year or so I'd developed a taste for shooting better ammo than just whatever FMJ was cheapest, and found myself paying more to get more action pistol oriented type stuff loaded to around 130 power factor like: Federal Syntech or smaller shop loaded 9mm from Impact Ammo and NC Shooters. USPSA Masters and Grand Masters can probably shoot great and win matches shooting hotter whatever power factor ammo through a Hi-Point, but for most of us out there trying to just improve and shoot the next match better than the last, shooting the same power factor ammo most everyone else is helps, and it's more fun. Power factor is a funny thing, it matters and it doesn't, but when you've been used to shooting cheap 115gr loads that are zipping along and are snappy, and then you shoot heavier-for-caliber loads in 124, 135, 147gr making about the same or less power factor but with a much nicer recoil impulse, you won't want to go back. So shooting the better/funner stuff can get more expensive; yet another reason to load your own. I was on a pretty steady diet of the Federal Syntech 150gr stuff (which is probably the best off-the-shelf/factory USPSA stuff) before I jumped into reloading, but in no time at all, the rounds I'm making are better: the recoil impulse is just as good, but they're noticably more accurate out of my guns, and they easily cost less than half of what I was paying. That said, I've been shooting competition on and off for over a decade, and I've kind of had my toes dipped into the reloading thing for most of that time, thinking about it, but being on the fence (because 9mm had stayed fairly affordable)... But, I was picking up info, reading a LOT of old threads on here before I purchased a single thing or began reloading. This forum is a goldmine for knowledge for lots of shooting related things, but IMO it's also the best place to scrounge knowledge about reloading because competition shooters really shoot, most of the peeps around here burn thousands of rounds per year and have the experience that goes with that. Most of the stuff you read or see on here is proven, it's not just stuff spit out by guys who load just a couple hundred rounds here and there. So, the best advice I can give you is to just look up all the questions you might have; you'll probably find most of your answers somewhere in the threads on here (TIP: you can google "whatever + Brian enos" and you'll be amazed at how much stuff pops up, like: "best 9mm reloading press + Brian Enos"). For equipment, be realistic about what you'll need to spend as some stuff is "buy once cry once"; if you want "a Glock", buy the Glock, don't settle for a Taurus, you'll regret it more than the little you save. Also, when scanning old threads, you'll see that a lot of guys are using the same basic stuff, don't ignore that, if it can be broken someone has probably broken it already on here, so don't be afraid to pay a few bucks more for stuff that's vetted and proven and has become a defacto "standard". It doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg to get into, but if a $500 budget won't get you what you think you'll need, then wait and save a little longer. IMHO, if you're hooked on shooting and will be doing it for years not months, buy the best press you can afford right off the bat, unless you're flush and rolling Gucci and can afford to just jump straight to a Mark7, make sure it's blue and says Dillon on it (remember what I said earlier about buying a "Glock"? Everything else is a "Taurus" lol). Beware the Square Deal B, it'a proprietary closed-system, you don't want that. Between this forum and Youtube you'll be fine. Good luck and welcome!
  3. ck1

    Carry optics dot

    I've seriously considered having an S2 cut for an Sig R3Max/XL due to envying the clearer non-magnified glass, but their durability is just too suspect for me to commit. I'm ok with having a backup because seems all the pistol dots can fail, but I don't want to have to own 3 or 4 to know I'll be covered and always have one working over the course of a year. That said, while I'm mostly happy with my SRO's due to their durability, I hope Trijicon isn't just sitting on their hands and hope there will be a version 2.0 sooner rather than later that fixes the slight distortion and magnification, for what they cost they probably should've had it right out of the gate. But, they've been selling MRO's which are far worse for years now without really fixing them, so I won't hold my breath...
  4. I went back and forth between trading in my recently purchased XL750 for either an RL1100 or Mark7 Evo, ordered then cancelled one of each actually... In the end decided to just hold onto the XL750 for now, and decided I'm going to buy an Evo once/if components become available again and/or stabilize. The 750+casefeeder+MBF, while not ideal, works fine for me for now and would allow for me to tear through all the components I have on-hand in a few weeks if I wanted. I just can't see upgrading to a better press right now when the only primers I can find are from scumbags charging ~$150 per 1K on auction sites. The way things are looking, we all probably better get used to more dry fire
  5. I've been running the CHPWS plate for an SRO on my S2OR for a while now, no complaints. FWIW, just checked out CHPWS' site, and looks like I've got their older version of their P-10 plate (P-10 plate works on the S2OR, mine is 1-piece, no steel T-nuts underneath). Looks like their newer V4 plate has steel T-nuts now, and they've also got a different/new S2OR specific plate with a dovetail for a rear iron sight too now. IMHO the plate with the rear dovetail seems kinda lame, the extra backup sights on a Timmy-style Glock make sense, but I see them as just a distraction on an S2 (I even cut off my front sight lol, don't need it).
  6. Generally, if the round will work in your 9mm 1911, it'll work in your Glock. That said, depends on which generation Glock you have, as I've been hearing for a while now that the Gen 5 Glock's are their own animal now and have much shorter chambers than the older generations, so you may have to load for those more like you would for a CZ (shorter rather than longer). For some reason a lot of guys try to load their 9mm rounds as longs possible, mostly because they can. But if loading long isn't needed for feeding/reliability or noticeably better accuracy, rounds that are loaded shorter or to a more "middle-of-the road" length will work in more guns... I load my 9mmm to 1.115 on average (to accommodate an CZ S2 with a shorter chamber), and the same load/round works great in an 9MM STI Trojan, Glock 17 3rd Gen, and MPX PCC. I've tried loading longer to squeeze more accuracy or to just see what it did for me in my Trojan (9mm 1911), but it didn't get me anything extra or perform any differently than the 1.115 round in my case (other than being a little long for the CZ). As far as the Blue Bullets, that's all I use, but I'd recommend the "special order" .356 size over their standard .355. Seems for every other coated-bullet maker out there besides Blue, .356 is the standard... so I consider .356 the "real standard" if you will. The slightly larger tighter fitting bullet is generally considered less likely to lead up your barrels. I've heard Blue just went to "their standard" size of .355 so guys new to coated bullets wouldn't have to adjust their flare much or over crimp them as easily and mess up their coating. YMMV.
  7. I've never used a C-more, but I totally get the "no tube thing", been running a 5 Moa SRO for a while now on my MPX and it weighs nothing and is fast. Super easy to get your head behind on a PCC. The SRO's aren't perfect, and Trijicon still seems to have trouble actually putting out a true 1X sight, but besides working great in CO, they're a huge step up from an MRO on a PCC, way less magnification and distortion.
  8. Hiperfire has come out with a new disconnector design for the 24/hipertouch-series triggers, supposedly specifically to address the the MPX's punishment... I read about it and saw pics of it on an MPX FB group, it's shaped differently than the the older/original one. Contact them and they'll send you it and a new spring or two, mine is already in the mail...
  9. I work in audio, so protecting my hearing is a big deal to me. That said, shooting probably isn't the best sport in that regard, but I try to do what I can lol! It's great that you get checked regularly, most people don't until they've done serious damage and are saying "What?" all the time. And the scary thing is: hearing doesn't really come back, once it's gone it's gone, if it lasts more than a couple days it usually means it's permanent.
  10. Fact is, and the shorter version of what I was saying is, the cheap foam earplugs when used correctly, rated at 30+ dB noise reduction, are probably the best for most shooters if you want to preserve your hearing. Don't even really get me started on Open guns... let's just say if you value your hearing, you probably should pick another division... I actually try to pick a squad with the fewest number of Open shooters, because with those, usually the safest place for one's hearing is behind the gun pulling the trigger since the sound and concussion coming off the comps is usually directed elsewhere. They're also the reason why I'll probably never become an USPSA RO/Safety Officer, the guys chasing them around with a timer are getting the s**t kicked out of their eardrums. And, regardless of what noise reduction one's ear pro are rated, you can't hide from concussion, if you can feel it then it's damaging your hearing, it literally rattles your inner ear, making you slowly go deaf with every round fired.
  11. Most of this is exactly spot on... Except, the truth of the matter is ALL currently available electronic ear pro is bad, and even a response time of 1 to 5 milliseconds is way too slow to prevent the transient sounds (like a snare drum crack, or a gunshot report) from causing hearing damage. All electronic ear pro works off of electronic and/or digital compression/limiting to do what they do, except the compression/limiting algorithms they incorporate are basically s**t compared to what they'd have to be to truly "catch" a transient sound before it could do any damage. It really doesn't matter what you spend on electronic ear pro either, whether $50 for the Impact Sports you see at every match, or $350+ on the latest bluetooth enabled rechargeable earbuds, they're all a bit gimmicky in a way, since they might let you hear range commands easier or allow you to pump tunes from you iPhone into them, but none of that is actually protecting your hearing as best as possible. If you really want to protect your hearing you want PASSIVE ear pro, the electronic stuff just isn't fast enough. Also, as mentioned, most electronic ear pro can't match the noise reduction available with passive ear pro: with electronic muffs/plugs costing ~$50-450+ only able to do 26dB of NR, while passive muffs/plugs costing $1-10 can do 33dB NR. It's because they physically can't, the tech just isn't there yet, the electronics that are used to raise dialogue and ambient sound while still attenuating (turning down) transient sounds is just what's available that's small enough to be worn on/in the ear, that doesn't mean it's good. In order for electronic ear pro to incorporate a fast enough Attack Time (that's what the speed response setting of a compressor/limiter is called), it'd have to cost several thousand dollars, and I'm not even sure the technology exists yet to miniaturize that tech enough to use it 'real time' and wear on your head while shooting.You want the most noise reduction you can get. Lastly, but importantly, the Decibel scale doesn't work like a "normal" scale, it's not "1, 2, 3, 4, etc" or like the volume knob on your stereo, raising in a linear fashion; every 6dB is perceived as TWICE AS LOUD, so the difference between 26dB and 33dB means the 26dB NR ear pro is letting sounds through more than TWICE as loudly as 33dB NR ear pro. The ubiquitous foamy ear plugs (with usually ~32-34dB NR) are great, but like stated above, they have to be inserted/used properly. Any of the passive muffs that offer 32-35dB NR are also great, and can be had easily for under $20. BOTH, is even better, I always recommend both when shooting indoors, but even outdoors, both is safer for you. For the best seal, most protection, and all-day comfort, nothing beats custom plugs though. Custom plugs have as close to a perfect seal as one can get (they're molded to your ears after all), so while foamies can work great, 33dB NR plugs that fit poorly or walk out aren't delivering 33dB NR, a good seal delivers what it's capable of 100% of the time. Also, custom plugs allow air to move into your ear more like "normal" (no plugs), which provides spatiality and directionality so you don't feel as "plugged up". While pricey, I use and can recommend these: https://1of1custom.com/products/pro-impulse-custom-ear-plug (if one wants to be able to change filters; though, I usually just end up using the Total Block inserts for shooting), or these if you want a KISS option: https://1of1custom.com/products/total-block There are a few other manufacturers I've used and had good experiences with too, but seems companies and/or audiologists offering the ACS brand are good to go, so that's what I'd recommend. The custom plugs with the filters are pretty much the only available way to just attenuate enough to hear range commands and such fairly easily (-15dB NR) while still being fast enough and providing more noise reduction to catch dangerous transient sounds (-33dB), but $185+ for plugs that work with a passive system is a hard sell... "electronic" sounds way cooler even though it isn't. Beware though, all "custom earplugs" aren't created equal, if you can buy them at Academy or online, or get them made and wear them the same day, then they're not even close to the real thing. Don't get fooled thinking a set of "custom earplugs" you can pick up for $30 and mold yourself at home is even anything like real custom plugs, they're not. If you have to first make an appointment to get them, and then some guy/gal squirts stuff into your ears and then tells you to expect a package in 2-6 weeks, than they're probably legit.
  12. Sorry, meant no harm, no affiliation, just stumbled upon a cool find the OP might dig...
  13. I was looking for another Trojan in 9mm and stumbled across this one in .40, looks like it was well loved, but a lot of life left I'd bet: [link removed per Forum Guidelines - Sorry] The Trojan's I've had over the years were/are on par with the DW's, better than most if not all of the others in the around or a bit over $1000 range IMO.
  14. LOL! Scope creep is real hahaha! Honestly, what I said before about cost vs benefit still holds true, the 750 w/case feeder + MBF is pretty awesome; but while it's hard to put a price on annoying, apparently for me the price of annoying is $1000. Regardless of cost, the upstroke-priming and crimped brass was killing me, so I figured WTH! I decided to trade-up to the 1100 because if I didn't, I'd end up getting the Evo, than I'd have to automate it, then etc... lol!
  15. Hahaha.... the Dillon guy didn't even really say lol, said "it could be a while, hopefully not too long..." I ordered "No caliber - Small Priming System" on your tip, hopefully that helps a bit!
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