Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ck1

  • Rank
    Calls Shots

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Nashville, TN
  • Real Name
    Chip Karpells
  1. Can’t believe it hasn’t been mentioned yet: the Foxtrot Mike/FM Products FM-9 BCG absolutely slays! Has an S7 tool steel extractor and other semi “Gucci” design traits that you normally won’t find on some at 2x+ the money... (and FWIW also plays perfectly with Hiperfire 24-series triggers, which someone mentioned earlier and I totally co-sign, due to their awesomeness in pull weight/feel w/ a harder hammer/primer strike too, sets off everything). Actually can’t say enough good things about the FM Products stuff I’ve tried thus far... their lower and patented LRBHO is probably the best design out there currently imho... Good read if you’ve got a minute, the owner talks about some of his impressive affiliations w/ Wilson Combat and PWS: https://www.arbuildjunkie.com/fm-products-fm-9-ppc-overview-with-paul-noonan/
  2. ck1

    Shadow still relevant?

    If anyone feels awkward about shooting your boring, obsolete Shadow 1 after you score a Shadow 2, please donate them to me and I'll provide them a good home and lots of ammo to eat ;-)
  3. I don't think it's really about the firing pin channel when it comes to the "FPB in the SP-01 vs no-FPB Shadow thing", it's about how the FPB/lifter interacts/functions, and how the shorter CGW lifter works with the reworked CGW firing pin is a smart bit of "re-engineering magic" IMO. In an FPB-equipped SP-01 the trigger pull has to first deactivate the FPB before the sear can break (which also means an inherently longer trigger-reset as the action doesn't really reset until it's also reset the FPB when letting the trigger out), since a non-FPB Shadow doesn't deactivate/activate a FPB, it ends up nicer/shorter... That's why I think CGW's SRS-1/2 (w/ the magic shorter lifter and firing pin you install) is so cool; it vastly changes the "timing" of how an SP-01 deactivates the FPB, to where it's pretty much inperceivable and feels like it's just breaking the sear like in a non-FPB Shadow, and then for it's next trick, it allows one to reset the action in SA before reactivating the FPB if you want to ride the trigger: so the SA pulls and trigger-reset end up nearly identical to a Shadow's (within 1-3mm assuming you drop in the T-2 disconnector too). Muy bueno. An SP-01 in the hands of a good shooter is not at a disadvantage at all really, but if one wants to trulls be a "trigger snob" and make an SP-01 as Shadow-like as possible, IMHO the SRS-1/2 + T2 dissy is the way.
  4. Do it yourself IMHO, it's pretty easy if you're at all mechanically inclined, just get the Hammer Pin Punch and don't lose the microscopic FPB-lifter spring (ask me how I know LOL).
  5. The Cajun SRS-1 is really the only game in town for non-Shadow/Pre-B CZ's w/ the FPB... the FPB lifter and unique "low-lift" firing pin is real genius as far as fixing the FPB-gun's shortcomings...
  6. Since the FPB has gotta stay, the Cajun kit is probably the best way to go to get the most out of it... should deliver a trigger-reset within a couple mm's of a Shadow's. I vote Dawson for sights, and would say head over to CZ Custom for +10% mag-springs and IMHO their "SOLID Firing Pin Retaining Pin" is a MUST if you're going to dry-fire a bunch (which you will LOL). Don't forget to snap up a 11lb and/or 10lb recoil spring, think stock is like 17lbs or something and is WAY over-sprung.
  7. Never mind: http://www.czub.cz/en/catalog/79-pistols-cz/PST/CZ_75_SP-01_SHADOW_LINE.aspx And: http://www.czub.cz/en/catalog/79-pistols-cz/PC/CZ_75_OMPACT_SHADOW_LINE.aspx When and when? Stu..?
  8. Looked over the draft of the new IDPA rule book briefly today, and noticed that if approved, maximum weight for SSP (and ESP) is 43oz w/ an empty mag (up from 39oz). This is good news for those of us who prefer/dig the standard Shadows with the rails, or have dealt with the hassle of trying to lighten one to 39oz in order to play IDPA. P.S. saw the "Shadow line" guns on CZC's site and wondering if there will be a railed "Shadow line" model coming, hopefully with the same slim safeties and original-85 Combat-style trigger..?
  9. Shot a steel match a couple days ago in quite literally a downpour... the K100 ran without a hitch and it got soaked! Even left it overnight in my range bag before I got a chance to clean it, no rust, no problems to speak of. Came in 5th overall against fully tricked 2011's and other race blasters (not to mention just plain better shooters), and I was way rusty as I hadn't made it to a single match in like 2 months... The gun made me look better than I probably should have (which is fine with me). One thing I noticed: I probably shot too slow and could have pushed it more, still getting used to how quick the K100 settles down and comes back on target, it does it so fast that I'm still not quite used to it and I almost hesitate a split-second before I fire.... weird. I'm not sure if it's the rotating barrel or what, but it's definitely cool.
  10. ck1

    Glock to Shadow - How long?

    IMHO the transition will be easy and you've got nothing to worry about. I think the single Glock pull is way harder to manage than the two Shadow pulls. IMHO the Glock trigger is a very unique animal that in spite of it's simplicity, can make it tough to get the kind of "laser-beam" accuracy on-demand that most of us are after. It often goes unmentioned how tough it can be to truly get a perfect trigger pull every time with them, even after lots of rounds and lots of time. For targets that are at close range, it's just fine, but for me, on anything further out, or on targets that are small and require greater accuracy (i.e. 6" plate at 20yrds), getting a clean pull that doesn't upset the gun and fly a little left (or right for the southpaws) takes a lot, and can get frustrating. Due to the nice trigger, and maybe the added heft, I just tend to think the Shadow is just an easier gun for most mortals to shoot well accurately as while it's got two types of pulls to deal with, it's still a lot more forgiving than dealing with a single pull that can be tough to modulate perfectly every single time. People make too big of a deal about the "single type of pull vs. learning two types of pulls"; the DA pull is always over before you know it, and as long as you're thinking "front-sight, front-sigt, front-sight..." it takes care of itself. I like Glocks, and know it's the Indian and not the Arrow as they're quite mechanically accurate, but IMO, being able to make quarter-sized groups at will with a Shadow is just far easier for the human operating the trigger.
  11. DA is about 7-8lbs, and smooth without any hitches. If you've ever felt a Beretta 92 or any Sigs, expect to be impressed, it's far better. IMO it feels about the same or better than a broken-in CZC Shadow Custom's (so pretty darn good). Other than slicked-up wheel guns, the only DA that I've ever sampled in a semi-auto that really beats it is a Shadow Custom with a Cajun Gun Works' Ultra-Lite kit and 8.5lb or 11.5lb hammer-spring installed (but that recipe means Federal Primers ONLY or no bueno).
  12. Robby, thanks man. Just to put it out there: while I was getting frustrated trying to track down the problem I was experiencing, it's worth mentioning that part of the problem is I seem to be the first guy with a K100 and an internet connection to mention anything... that tells me that there hasn't been very many issues, which is actually a good thing as gun-owners with problematic pistols tend to cry loudly (takes one to know one). Secondly, and maybe more relevant, I don't necessarily see the fact that the K100 firing pin gets beat-up during lots of dry-fire as a design flaw or deal-breaker by any stretch... The same type of thing has been a known issue with many CZ guns for years, and I don't have a problem living with it now that I know better. Here's why: all machines break, and pretty much every gun design in the known world has an aspect to it's design that will allow damage to occur to it in unfamiliar hands, or something about it's design that when subjectively judged could be considered to be a "flaw" (i.e. drop the slide over and over on an empty-chambered 1911 and it will start to hammer-follow sooner or later, a right-handed shooter who uses a modern "thumbs-forward" grip on a Sig can de-cock the hammer inadvertently, if a Glock's recoil-spring becomes weaker than it's firing-pin-spring they sometimes blow-up, etc). The issue has been uncovered, the solution is easy (check your K100's roll-pin if you dry-fire excessively, as apparently I do), and parts even already exist (albeit originally intended for CZ's) to make it a non-issue. So no big deal as far as I'm concerned. Many gun-owners tend to become fans of their favorite brands and will no doubt cite the dry-fire/roll-pin issue as a reason as to why the K100 isn't as awesome as their Glock/H&K/Sig/whatever... I feel like "who cares?", because those guys can go drop $300+ on trigger-jobs, and their triggers will still suck balls next to an out-of-the-box K100. I hope anyone looking into a Grand Power K100 who may happen to stumble upon this thread reads enough of it to figure out that I'm still a huge fan them despite running into a problem, and that I would put one up against any other gun at whatever cost when it comes to performance. Separate from the positive experience I had communicating with Grand Power over the roll-pin problem, the designer/owner himself had returned an email about a question I had sent them a while back before I had even bought one... so it's safe to say they've got the right idea when it come to Customer Service. IMHO, Grand Power's design is kick-ass, period. Now that they're being offered at a lower price-point, they are going to get more looks from the unfamiliar. Having owned some of the best blasters available, I have to agree that the guns may very well be THE best value out there.
  13. No, but if you're talking about a small-frame Tanfo, I bet if you added the notch/hole in the front it would work (used to have one and the mags were just like CZ mags).
  14. Excellent news: the firing pin retaining pin in the K100 is virtually the same as in a CZ. The K100's pin is 3x24mm, a CZ's is slightly shorter at about 3x20ish (by just eyeballing it). I found a stock CZ firing pin retaining pin that I had pulled and swapped out for a Cajun Gun Works' improved/bombproof type in one of my CZ-75B's I no longer have, and since it looked like it was in better shape than the beat-up one I had just rotated in the K100, I installed it in the K100 without a hitch. The CZ pin is a bit shorter, but it's still as long as it needs to be, plenty long enough to retain the firing pin within the K100 without being sketchy at all. All checks show the K100 is happy again, and since now I know it'll fit/work, I've already ordered an improved retaining pin from CGW to install, so I can dry-fire to my heart's content (even without a snap-cap) and forget about all this drama.
  15. You are correct sir, never drove the pin out all the way and missed it. I should've looked at it with it all the way out (I'm a dumb-ass ).
  • Create New...