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ck1

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About ck1

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    Nashville, TN
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    Chip Karpells

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  1. I've been shooting a bunch of Blue's 135gr .356 TC's at 1.115" OAL and they've run perfect and have been lasers for me. In my experience the Blue RN 147gr was a bitch with my S2 and it didn't like them at all, they have a fat ogive (even though they run fine in a STI 9mm 1911 and Glock G17). Before I started rolling my own, I ran a bunch of the 150gr Syntech Action Pistol and that stuff was fine, and that's fairly close to Blue's truncated cone shape (the TC's are more rounded so they actually are probably more forgiving feeding-wise). Previously I'd only
  2. Damn. Sorry if they don't work out for you. Sounds like you can return them if they're a no-go, so that's good at least. I haven't used anything other than the Mec-Gars since I got them and haven't had a single issue at all through ~3000rds (probably more) with them, have never cleaned them. Best 9mm 1911 mags by a long shot for me... compared to ETM's/Metalform's/Dawson's/Tripp's, it's not even close... IDK about them working with that long 1.161 OAL you mentioned (I've only really ran them with my 1.115 "CZ friendly" loads, FMJ factory stuff, and Syntech "Action Pisto
  3. Which one's, are they the ones with the basepad that has 8 circles on the bottom for marking them (those are the ones I've been talking about)..? I ask because Mec-Gar has older ones the suck that share the same SKU for some reason...
  4. Holy s**t! Placed a backorder at Graf's for 10,000 Federal Match SPP's on 7/20/20... Got an email, called them, and they're on the way (normal pricing too, no up-charge)! ....Soon to be on the auction site for $1,000,000 + one's first born !
  5. Yeah, that's a lot of cheddar for what I'd consider just an okish trigger, one can get better than that with almost any decent stock parts just by tuning the sear spring and maybe swapping to a 17lb mainspring... Just need some time to take the gun apart a few times and do the right checks, nothing to buy really. A ~2lb trigger is pretty easy by tuning the sear spring with any quality tool steel fire control, no sanding/stoning needed if the hammer-hooks and sear nose fit ok. Atlas and a few others have some good videos out there that go over 1911 safety checks that can
  6. Yeah, in a lot of ways the XL750 is probably the "goldilocks" machine. Adding an MBF, one doesn't give up much at all for making pistol ammo even against the others, and is just fine until one has a reason and/or the money to move up to an Evo. I agree that the 1100 is in a weird spot, it just doesn't have enough real stations for what it costs IMO, and swaging is only really a big deal with certain calibers. As an 750 owner making 9mm, I just try to avoid picking up mil-crimped brass if I can, or just quickly go through my brass (it's not that bad) if I'm going to get ready to pump out a bunc
  7. IMHO I think it's an expensive gimmick for guys who've heard tall tales or read too much forum-nonsense about bad 1911 trigger jobs lol. Most any drop-in kit will do if your 1911 came with not so great fire control parts stock. None of the operation is that tricky and most people should become familiar with the 1911's parts anyways if they're really going to run one. Installing a good hammer, sear, disconnector, and playing with the sear spring is usually all it takes, with the hardest part being tearing down/reassembling the gun a bunch of times while "tuning" the sear spring bein
  8. I think it's probably a really strange time for guys to get into reloading with all the component shortages and stuff, backorder on all kinds of things including presses, etc. I'm lucky that I kind of got into it right before everything got too difficult... If I could do everything over again, for pistol rounds and for maybe investing in different toolhead/caliber conversions, I would have just started with a manual Mark7 Evo with Mr. Bullet Feeder (MBF), buy once cry once. For progressive presses it's about as good as is available on the planet right now, and it doesn't cost much
  9. From what I've seen: No. Having the spacer at the back of the mag tube seems to let the rounds often slide forward, often to where the noses of the bullets contact/hang on the front of the tubes... just one of the ways to get to nose-dive city lol. Also, with the rounds waiting right up against the feed ramp: the fresh round only has an instant to pop out of the mag perfectly, hopefully with its rim sliding up the breech face and under the extractor, and then chamber at a steep angle, not much tolerance there. And ramped-barrel or not, most 9mm 1911 feed ramps are still steep and i
  10. let us know how it goes? Mine have been flawless... I got 12 of them too lol!
  11. I've shot/shoot tons of Blues through various PCC's, they work great.. but yeah, they're awesome for mucking up your comp lol! I read a trick on here awhile back about spraying case-lube/lanolin all over the comp and letting it dry between cleanings, and it does help... but only helps tho, cleaning the comp out is still not the funnest thing ever lol.
  12. Exactly the same idea as those old Springfield 9-rounders, and they always seemed to work for everybody! Like you said, the only problem with those was capacity (9rds vs 10rds), and also their springs would go south pretty quick (after a while they wouldn't lock-back on empty). I used to run those back in the day before the rules changes when it used to be an advantage in IDPA to use 9-rounders over 10's sometimes depending on the match (since round-dumping is legal now there's no reason not to roll with 10's)... they always ran way better than any of the 10-rounders with the space
  13. Yeah, calling them "crap" is little strong for sure lol! The thing is though, after running/fighting with the 9mm 1911 mags with the spacers in the back for so many years, even when I had ones that were 99.9%, the Mec-Gars are like a revelation... The spacers being in the back of the tubes like in ETM's or whatever presents the rounds to the chamber at a really steep angle, and right at the end of the stroke of the slide coming back (so zero room for things to go anything other than perfect): if anything is wonky at all with the rounds, or one's extractor isn't tuned ju
  14. I've run pretty much every different brand/type of 9mm 1911 magazine out there... IMO the newer/newest Mec-Gar 9mm 1911 mags with the rib running down the front are the best ones ever made thus far. Be careful though, because Mec-Gar decided to use the same SKU for the new ones as their old ones (which are trash). All the 9mm 1911 mags with the spacer in the back of the mag tube (Wilson, Metalform, Dawson, etc) are crap compared to the new Mec-Gar's. Having the spacer in the rear of the tube is a terrible design choice, but they're a lot cheaper to manufacture, so that's probably w
  15. I don't think coated bullets + MPX is necessarily always a disaster. I've shot ~10k of blue bullets out of a couple MPX's, ~8k through one gun (that now belongs to a buddy and is still going strong, think he shoots BBI or Galant's, coated something), and another ~2k on one I still own, no issues. Maybe I've been lucky, but the MPX gas system hasn't given me any grief from the coated bullets. That said, some MPX's seem to be finickier than others, as I think I'm an outlier in the world of MPX maintenance and haven't really cleaned mine any more than anything else that gets shot a lo
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