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brian45acp

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  1. Thank you guys. my vortex range finder just arrived and I’m set to take it out this Friday and try to find a place far enough to test things out. I will chrono my loads again and confirm the fps as well. I also need to check zero and now that I have a range finder re zero at 25yrds exactly. Sounds like I will mostly have to figure this out in the course of fire but it’s possible I can get a few shots off under practice at my local range.
  2. Sounds good Nevada, I am going to shoot a local uspsa match Saturday and already cleared with the director to shoot some distance steel after the match. Do you think I should bump my load at all or just stick with what works? I use my same load for CO in my g17 as I do my pcc so what I have developed is the best middle of the road to do this. I’m just wondering if I should get the pcc load to 1200 or maybe I’m close enough it won’t really matter.
  3. I’ve gone through 3-4 of them and despite broken I ran the entire match no problem. You only discover they are broken after you get home and clean. JP says to change at 5k but I run them until they break and haven’t kept track. Before a bigger match I put a fresh one in just to be safe. this is a wear item and just part of what needs to be done for maintenance
  4. Going to venture out of uspsa and do a real rifle shoot with my pcc. I run a GMR 13 with a 13.5 barrel and 1.5 comp to get legal length here in nazi California. My load is 124grn jhp 1150-1170fps and I have the delta point pro 2.5 moa which will help for distance. I hate the triangle so have always went to the dot despite it being a bit small for typical uspsa shooting. I’m used to it but glad it’s what I have for this upcoming match. I am zeroed right now at 15-20yrds but I hear zero at 25yrds is ideal so I’ll make an adjustment. my question is what is your guys suggestions for hold over at 50,100,200 yards? I been looking online for graphs and as far as I can tell 50 should be basically zero, 100 will be 12 inch high, and 200 will be 24inch high for hold. With any luck I’ll be able to take a few distance shots before the match but as of now I don’t have a place to do it so I need some advice. thanks guys
  5. I will never go away from JP. I have seen those sigs crap out many times. My JP has run pcc division since jan 2017 and been flawless. I should have just changed this stupid split washer like I was supposed to. I have learned to just find something that works and shoot the hell out of it. It seems there is no limit to chasing this stuff. Some guys are obsessed about a light rifle and I never bothered with that. Just learn to shoot fast with wha you have, lol.
  6. Thanks. I just don't want to make 2 loads again, that was a pain. My CO rig and pcc run the same ammo and I found a good happy medium.
  7. My head hurt after seeing all the hacking and mis-matched stuff being talked about. I went ahead and ordered the SCS short stroke kit and will likely run 5 tungsten on it. I am running a 124grn and its pushing 1200fps. I think the extra weight will off set the short stroke and keep things moving quickly. I will just have to try it and see and possibly make that 5th weight a stainless instead. I am keeping the stock red/yellow spring on the SCS though.
  8. After about 25k rounds in pcc division I have nuked my SCS. I changed O rings here and there but never the damn snap ring that retains the weights. It blew apart and I felt the cycling change during stage and ran it one more stage to finish the match. Got home and was shocked to see how destroyed it was with parts and O ring frags all inside the tube but the gun still ran. So I was on here researching and see the top guys are saying to use this https://www.blitzkriegcomponents.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RB5007 with an AR 308 spring. Are you guys in agreement that setup is better than the JP short stroke SCS kit? I was about to order the JP short SCS kit and play around with the weights. In my stock Gen 2 SCS I had 4 tungsten because the 3 tungsten and 1 stainless would chew through O-rings and Jp suggested drop my load or change the weight. I want one load for CO and PCC division so I played with the weight and it has been great. If I go to the short stroke kit I am not sure what to do but I am reading on here the top guy Maxmundo is saying to to use the hydraulic and 308 spring. Help me out please.
  9. 4.8grn BE86, precision delta 124grn jhp, 1.095 OAL. Stock springs and stock gun I have ran over 30k of this load but I am wondering if I compensated for something by tightening the feed lips on my older mags. Back when I had a SDP p-01 from CZ custom I ran the gun stock on a load that worked but after it came back from the custom shop it wouldn't feed. I realized my OAL was too long but the stiff stock springs shoved it in and masked the problem. So after all this time I am wondering if now I been thinking about mag feed lips when the gun might be over sprung and short stroking on some loads that come up just a hair under my 4.8 grns I figure I would order the stainless guide rod from cajun and a 2lb lighter recoil spring and start there. This would tell me if that was the issue or not. It is crazy I shoot carry optics but with a stock gun an only do this because I shoot USPSA with what I CCW and dont wont a race trigger on one gun and stock on the ccw gun. But the gun is stock
  10. I called Ben Stogers and Dawsons shop today. Best advice I got was feed lips on 9mm should be no more than .360 wide. My mags are right there at 3.59 so I still think this is the issue. My other thought was because I run PCC and CO division I developed this load to work in both knowing that its a bit hot in the PCC but possibly not enough to throw the slide if a charge is on the minus side of my 4.8 grains. Its all I can think of but all the mags for CZ that I have all seem to be right around .360 or just under so if you all arent having issues then its something else.
  11. They are new springs and new mags. I used them in about 12 matches or less. On my 10 rounders I do use wolf 10% which helped keep rounds from sliding forward
  12. I have no idea what is up with the website it keeps tagging words and I cant type for crap. Sorry about that. Appreciate any help here. I clearly have something new to learn and not sure what it is just yet. I CCW a 75 compact and now am sketched out so the g19 is on my hip lol. It feels like s#!t in the hand vs my CZ, lol
  13. I can't explain this then. I have done the polishing to the yellow area and radiused the breech face edge. Stock mags 10 rounders I have had the same issues and had to tighten the feed lips. Now these new mecgars with Henning basepad and grams followers they are worse. My ammo is a precision delta 124 grn jhp loaded short at 1.095. Yes some bullets slip forward but not enough to cause an issue I dont think. I can mess with the top round and cause it to pop out of the feed lips after its just forward a little bit. If you pull up on it with your fingers it will slip through the feedlips and pop out. I feel like this is what is happening while I am shooting. It's doing this as I am ripping off shots at the match and I am getting a stovepipe type malfunction with a loaded round. I cant think of anything else that is the problem. I have always just figured these guns like tight mags but obviously I have something new to learn if you guys all arent having an issue. I do use a Undersize die and FCD so is it possible that my rounds are being swaged and undersized? I have shot so many thousands and thousands of these and my sp-01 has over 30k on it before I stopped counting. I run PCC also and with JP I have no failures so I dont think its my ammo. By the way, the gun is all stock except for my optic cut in. You would think by now I upgrade my triggers for UPSA but I CCW a CZ and dont want to get used to a match trigger and ccw a stock one.
  14. Nobody has these same issues?
  15. My CZ OEM 10 round mags I simply squeezed the feed lips until the rounds held tight. But the notch on the rear is square and this was easier to do. On my Mecgar 18 round mags the rear notch is U shaped and this isn't working out the same. Over the years I realized CZ's like the rounds to be held tight by the feed lips or they pop up and create a stove pipe type malfunction with a loaded round. I have been screwing around with a couple ideas here and used a spring loaded punch to divot on each side about 1/8 inch from the rear so that they are tighter in that spot and prevent rounds from slipping forward after the one above is stripped away. Basically this is my current best idea and the round will slip forward as usual but the case rim will stop at the divot I created. I tried this on the mecgar mags and it doesnt quite work out the same because I think the metal is thicker and harder than the OEM mags. I have also lightly tapped the top of the lips with a brass hammer but unless I really wack them they arent moving much. Dawson has a nice kit but its for STI mags so shaping the feed lips on these is going to have to be done some other way. What are you guys doing to tighten up the feed lips on these mags? I have polished the disconnect rail and beveled it near the breech to help with all this but with my new mecgar mags am still having issues. For reference the OEM 10 round mags I only have to tighten maybe 1-2 times a year and can do so easily just squeezing them a bit with channel locks. Doing this takes them in about 10 thousandths vs new which seems to work great. Thanks guys.
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