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brian45acp

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  1. 4.8grn BE86, precision delta 124grn jhp, 1.095 OAL. Stock springs and stock gun I have ran over 30k of this load but I am wondering if I compensated for something by tightening the feed lips on my older mags. Back when I had a SDP p-01 from CZ custom I ran the gun stock on a load that worked but after it came back from the custom shop it wouldn't feed. I realized my OAL was too long but the stiff stock springs shoved it in and masked the problem. So after all this time I am wondering if now I been thinking about mag feed lips when the gun might be over sprung and short stroking on some loads that come up just a hair under my 4.8 grns I figure I would order the stainless guide rod from cajun and a 2lb lighter recoil spring and start there. This would tell me if that was the issue or not. It is crazy I shoot carry optics but with a stock gun an only do this because I shoot USPSA with what I CCW and dont wont a race trigger on one gun and stock on the ccw gun. But the gun is stock
  2. I called Ben Stogers and Dawsons shop today. Best advice I got was feed lips on 9mm should be no more than .360 wide. My mags are right there at 3.59 so I still think this is the issue. My other thought was because I run PCC and CO division I developed this load to work in both knowing that its a bit hot in the PCC but possibly not enough to throw the slide if a charge is on the minus side of my 4.8 grains. Its all I can think of but all the mags for CZ that I have all seem to be right around .360 or just under so if you all arent having issues then its something else.
  3. They are new springs and new mags. I used them in about 12 matches or less. On my 10 rounders I do use wolf 10% which helped keep rounds from sliding forward
  4. I have no idea what is up with the website it keeps tagging words and I cant type for crap. Sorry about that. Appreciate any help here. I clearly have something new to learn and not sure what it is just yet. I CCW a 75 compact and now am sketched out so the g19 is on my hip lol. It feels like s#!t in the hand vs my CZ, lol
  5. I can't explain this then. I have done the polishing to the yellow area and radiused the breech face edge. Stock mags 10 rounders I have had the same issues and had to tighten the feed lips. Now these new mecgars with Henning basepad and grams followers they are worse. My ammo is a precision delta 124 grn jhp loaded short at 1.095. Yes some bullets slip forward but not enough to cause an issue I dont think. I can mess with the top round and cause it to pop out of the feed lips after its just forward a little bit. If you pull up on it with your fingers it will slip through the feedlips and pop out. I feel like this is what is happening while I am shooting. It's doing this as I am ripping off shots at the match and I am getting a stovepipe type malfunction with a loaded round. I cant think of anything else that is the problem. I have always just figured these guns like tight mags but obviously I have something new to learn if you guys all arent having an issue. I do use a Undersize die and FCD so is it possible that my rounds are being swaged and undersized? I have shot so many thousands and thousands of these and my sp-01 has over 30k on it before I stopped counting. I run PCC also and with JP I have no failures so I dont think its my ammo. By the way, the gun is all stock except for my optic cut in. You would think by now I upgrade my triggers for UPSA but I CCW a CZ and dont want to get used to a match trigger and ccw a stock one.
  6. Nobody has these same issues?
  7. My CZ OEM 10 round mags I simply squeezed the feed lips until the rounds held tight. But the notch on the rear is square and this was easier to do. On my Mecgar 18 round mags the rear notch is U shaped and this isn't working out the same. Over the years I realized CZ's like the rounds to be held tight by the feed lips or they pop up and create a stove pipe type malfunction with a loaded round. I have been screwing around with a couple ideas here and used a spring loaded punch to divot on each side about 1/8 inch from the rear so that they are tighter in that spot and prevent rounds from slipping forward after the one above is stripped away. Basically this is my current best idea and the round will slip forward as usual but the case rim will stop at the divot I created. I tried this on the mecgar mags and it doesnt quite work out the same because I think the metal is thicker and harder than the OEM mags. I have also lightly tapped the top of the lips with a brass hammer but unless I really wack them they arent moving much. Dawson has a nice kit but its for STI mags so shaping the feed lips on these is going to have to be done some other way. What are you guys doing to tighten up the feed lips on these mags? I have polished the disconnect rail and beveled it near the breech to help with all this but with my new mecgar mags am still having issues. For reference the OEM 10 round mags I only have to tighten maybe 1-2 times a year and can do so easily just squeezing them a bit with channel locks. Doing this takes them in about 10 thousandths vs new which seems to work great. Thanks guys.
  8. Ok sounds good. Once my OCD kicks in I seem to make issues out of stuff that isn't an issue, lol. If the gun fired slightly out of battery it doesn't seem like the barrel disengages much later and at that point the trigger doesn't function which I'm sure is by design. I get brass so cheap it's worth the ocassional bad round. The darn brass bottoms out and slide won't close because the brass is too long. I don't want to ream my barrels for crappy brass that is the cause.
  9. I learned that much of the issues with cz needing a short OAL isn't always the reason it won't go into battery. In my case it turns out some brass I get is out of spec and too long by about 3-5 thousandths beyond SAMI. This causes the brass to hang up the slide from going in battery because it head spaces then that's it. Today at the match I had another one and the hammer still dropped. It got me thinking so I checked the gun which is a sp-01 that is stock except for my slide was milled for an optic. That does expose the FPB but I don't suspect that changes anything. The hammer will still fall with the slide pulled back quite a bit. On the other hand at the point the barrel disengages from the lugs then the trigger is dead and hammer won't fall. I checked with a snap cap and a piece of masking tape over the primer area to check at what point out of battery the firing pin would still make contact. It will punch the primer with the slide slightly pulled back but not when pulled back more to the point the barrel isn't engaged. Basically I think that point is when the FPB stops the firing pin but when just a little out of battery the FPB disengages and the primer will get hit. I've always thought a gun that fires out of battery is a bad thing but looking at the cz the barrel stays engaged for quite a while which makes me think it's part of the design and not really an issue. A glock or 1911 pretty much immediately unlock the barrel as the slide moves and then the trigger won't function at that point. The cz is very different I noticed and the barrel stays locked and allows quite a bit of slide movement Do you guys have any thoughts?
  10. Are these your boots also?
  11. Just got mine back from czc. Sp-01 slide milled for docter. I thought they would have the pins for indexing the dot in the slide but it's just a flat cut with taped holes. The cut is spot on and the dot fits very snug front to back. The FPB hole is totally exposed and the underside of my docter is skeltonized so the FPB spring really concerns me pushing on a little bit of material that has a hole and isn't flat. I bought flat shim stock which is .12 thick and cut a piece to put down as sort of a shim and it works great. The dot and spring sit on a flat surface now. I am happy with the work and it's well done. I knew the FPB would be exposed before I sent it out. CZ doesn't have good options for mounts so milling was best
  12. So I checked my stock sp-01 which I havent taken that spring out on yet. I unhooked both sides of the spring and they are equally tensioned to ride just above the bottom of the trigger bar. Basically when unhooked both sides are above the bar but not by much and to put them back you pull them down and they snap back into the groove. This entire idea that this spring needs to be adjusted one way on one side and one way on the other I am not sure I believe. I would plan to change springs and put them just the way they came when the time comes which seems to be equal on both and provide just a little upward tension on both sides.
  13. Thanks man. There must be enough room inside there to bend it in/out? I would think it would have to be out or if you bend it outward the frame will limit how far you can go. Vertical doesnt seem like that big of an issue and simple enough All mine have FPB so I will check my match gun this week for this. I havent had any issues but I am little by little learning how to tear into this thing. This screw and spring is the last part I have to tackle. Well, I guess taking the sear cage apart also but that doesnt look so bad.
  14. Man this sounds involved. You guys are doing this with this slide on? I would imagine so since the slide presses the trigger bar down some so I would think adjustments are made from that point and not with the slide off since the bar lifts up on its own. You guys are just pushing on the spring upward until you tension it just right then clipping it back into the groove? Its odd I never seen this talked about or and vids on it. Sure seems more involved then anything else and important.
  15. You just pulled up on the spring once it was in the gun until it rode 1/8th above the bar? Or did you have to keep taking it out and tweaking it until it was right? Sounds like you got to it from the grip panels and tensioned it while it was installed
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