MemphisMechanic

@Racinready300ex valid point.

That was, indeed, the first gun in your list that didn’t have me shaking my head wondering what you were thinking. (Sometimes Open Glocks run. But a sigma and a 5906 at matches? Ugh.)

Put the belt with a good drop hanger and holster body as far up your list as you can. I’d invest in that before I slapped a magwell on the gun, personally. Get mags with the correct capacity, and good sights. Those are mandatory. Then a belt rig. Then the magwell and frame weight. I don’t know what people are doing for recoil springs in Major .40 glocks, but if you are loading your own ammo a recoil spring and guide rod that plays well with your ammo will do as much to flatten out the gun as adding weights will.

I’m curious where the desire for a specific twist rate and a handfitted barrel for a 19 came from in the first place.

They’re not hiding it and the reasoning is well known. Cali and Massachusetts require them on all guns sold. So manufacturers put them on pretty much everything these days. While the notch in the barrel hood is common, others do it better: For example, a Walther PPQ/Q5 has a red dot on the slide that’s visible only when the extractor is gripping a piece of brass in the chamber. Since none of us use the stupid thing anyway, I like that method. It affects nothing.

Did you do any research into 2011s at all before this purchase? All of them require mags that are $100+ each. Even the newer ones with good aftermarket support.

Weight out front will have the largest affect. I’d look for an affordable steel handguard to throw a few ounces up front. It’s also easy to undo if you decide you don’t like it.

In that case, I loaded on the 650 for 10 years… This was my process… In your situation? I would prime empty cases until I ran out of primers and set this primed & sized brass aside in a small box. Then I’d resize another dozen or so pieces of brass (which are unprimed) and toss them into another box. Next time you’re loading and a primer gets crushed or is missing, toss that piece of brass in the trash. Now you can place a pre-primed case into that station and resume loading. Likewise, if you spot a .380 in place of a 9mm, or stepped brass, or a case arrives smushed by the sizing die or with a torn mouth, toss it and replace it with unprimed resized brass. Boom. The primer sitting in that station now has somewhere to go! I usually went months (thousands of rounds) without a primer ever sliding down the ski-jump this way. To end normal reloading sessions, I’d flip the casefeeder off when the low primer buzzer sounded. Then carefully load ammo til the primer station went dry and you felt the handle goes effortlessly forward. At that point I’d dump the cases in the tube back into the casefeeder, and then resize the half-dozen or so pieces of brass left in the machine. This restocks your supply of sized brass with empty pockets for your next reloading session and also empties the entire machine. (Eventually, I started leaving the press full of all components. I simply stop pulling the handle and walk away. I prefer loading 50 rounds each night to loading 500-1,000 the night before a match... so the handle is always ready for a pull.)

Helps to specify which press. They all work very differently. But yes. Leave them in the press for a few months and they’ll still run just fine.

Fits me great. I have long fingers but slender non-meaty hands. The finger grooves and grip contour do a great job of driving my hand up high into the tang, and it’s just long enough I never have problems with reloads. That said, I agree it’s short and if they’d made it G16/34 length instead of G19 length a lot more guys would shoot it.

I like the gun. Mine’s not even steel. Sold a decked out Tanfoglio to go back to Polymer, and it was either Glocks or Walthers. Walthers have better ergos for a lefty, and triggers.

Have you thought about shaving off the rearmost portion of the slide stop? It’s legal in every division these days and might be the cheapest solution if you think it’d work.

Your post implies that Bob and Kenny didn’t have the same struggle that you did with seeing their sights. Is that true? Have you ever taken the opportunity to shoot their guns in such a lighting condition to see if it’s your vision, or if it’s a hardware issue with the sights you’ve chosen to run being harder to pick up than theirs? Given how frequently this seems to be having a large affect on your outcome at majors, I’m sure you’re all over trying to find the problem. I’d be seriously contemplating some time in Open or CO if it turns out to be a side effect of your old Lasik surgery, for example. Something that can’t be changed with a front sight swap.

Call back. One guy will barely give you the time of day. The next one will happily throw parts at you and talk for ten minutes.

no problem!

You do know that “OAL” means Over All Length, right? He initially gave you lengths and not a handguard diameter, because that’s what you actually asked for.

Same here. I don’t shoot majors so my TTI +5s on my Walther mags don’t concern me. If I sign up for a major, I’ll spend the $20ish on a gauge to see if the heel of the extension needs sanded down half a millimeter. Just wanted that info out there.

Seth loves them and has great luck with them. I asked two nationally competitive PCC GMs for their thoughts before buying... Long story short, I didn’t buy any more ETS tubes. If they land wrong on a rock or get stomped on after falling to the ground, you’ll get a crack.

Then you should definitely check them. TTI makes more than a couple 140 extensions that need kissed with a belt sander to fit in the gauge... as some guys find out the hard way.

When lifting for a strength increase, when something is listed as “3 sets of 15 reps” the goal is for you to figure out what weight will allow you to stall at rep 14-15... meaning doing a 16th lift is pretty much impossible. The trick here is to ensure you don’t allow your form to break down, and that you’re still performing the exercise only by contracting the desired muscle; it’s easy to do a curl by swinging from the shoulder to get the weight moving, rather than strictly contract at the bicep and ONLY rotate at the elbow. Watch his form. Replicate it precisely. Lift heavy. It keeps the pain entirely away, for me.

Run a Holosun 510C on it. The thing has been good enough to win about 90% of the majors out there atop a PCC, including 100% of the Nationals held thus far. For very good reason. It’s a phenomenal optic for the money.

That is excellent info for someone who has never seen an SF in person and wants to modify a grip for his girl someday. Are the factory grips hollow or solid? I’m not the slightest bit afraid to grind the hell out of something I paid $100 for after filling it with epoxy. That was pretty much my plan for the factory grips, for her. Belt-sand them down to where they’d have been paper thin if not reinforced on the back with epoxy, then do a thin layer of silicon carbide grit on the outside.

Man, that’s a weird press. I fed my 650 at least 40k CCI primers before upgrading to a 1050. It loved CCI the most. Federal were good, winchesters always got fussy in the vibraprime and when getting seated in tight pockets... but CCIs were fantastic. It never ever flipped a primer. I’d have maybe 1 per 1,000rd loading session which I knew had gone down the vibraprime chute backwards, but the press fed them as they were presented to it. I believe I never crushed a primer I didn’t try to stuff into a crimped primer pocket. The priming system was flawless from stock through all tinkering/upgrades, and the rest of the press got damn good after those upgrades.

Because he’s not a DM?