MemphisMechanic

They don’t feed well in a 40 S&W.

A heavier spring may help with this, at the expense of more muzzle flip. Competition guys run a lighter spring to help flatten the gun out and let your sights return to target faster. So to most of the guys who read this, it’ll feel like a step in the wrong direction.

He’s got a compact gun, which I’m sure he’s shooting full-house ammo through. Not a competition guy. No one makes much of anything for the compact polymer guns, so I believe you’re limited to what crosses over from the popular steel-framed Stock 2, Stock 3, and Limited Elite type of gun. Like the guide rod. Why are you replacing the firing pin spring if you aren’t also installing a different hammer spring? They’re pretty much a matched pair, and the hammer spring is what affects trigger pull. A swap of the firing pin spring will not affect that.

I figured. People tend to retire to the pretty end. My parents just did.

Whereabouts in TN?

You act like you find this design to be any kind of a good idea. This one looks to position the finger right over the opening in the triggerguard while applying pressure to the button. At least the SERPAs make an attempt to get your trigger finger up over the side of the frame where it belongs.

@CHA-LEE @Bench They arrived Saturday. The thing follower will not get me a 24th round in a PPQ / Q5 Magazine (also fitted with a TTI +5 and a Grams P320 spring) but they do make it substantially easier to seat the mag with 23 in it. Once I get a chance to verify they’re reliable in live fire, I’ll use these in matches and no longer download my reload mags to 22 rounds. Because someone will ask: The gun cannot be made to lock open when empty with this follower. You must delete that feature, just like you had to with the Grams P320 guts. They are not at all compatible with the OEM Walther spring, but fit the grams P-320 spring like they were made for each other. I expect this combination to function 100%.

Q5 5” PPQ M2 Two different 4” PPQs They eat factory 115s just fine. Thousands of round of it downrange. My competition guns are running a 13lb 1911 wilson flatwire spring on a custom machined guide rod. They’ve eaten 124, 135, and 147gr ammo without a hitch. I load to roughly 135pf when developing a load, so everything’s 133-137pf. I’ve never seen anyone local have issues getting a Walther to run reliably. But they do indeed have very fast barrels.

It’s 9mm. It only legally fits into Limited division. This makes it non-relevant in USPSA. 3-gun pistol only.

@Gomar83 that “diagnostic target” is largely useless internet lore. (There are multiple reasons one might pull a shot in any given direction.) This one is slightly more accurate:

No need to be so fancy. A notch ground into it with an ordinary grinding wheel would work just fine.

You split a 7yd head shot / noshoot partial the same as a close paper, and the same as a distant paper... and I’d wager that’s killing you on 50% of the harder targets if not more. You point the gun at a target for a full second at least a dozen times before breaking the shot. You’re either over-aiming or your index needs a lot of work. Learn to shoot steel cleanly and call your shot so you don’t need to watch it fall. No idea if other stage plans could have prevented it but a standing reload is death, and you (had?) to do them far too often. Your reload speed is killing you. RUN on the long movement, don’t stroll. You never get up to 50% of your personal max speed. Your transitions need a lot of work and are costing you a lot of lost time per stage.

Strip the barrel from the slide. Take a couple of your rounds and drop them into the chamber. Do they spin freely when twisted with your fingertips, or stick and refuse to turn? Tap the brass down into the chamber then flip the barrel muzzle-up: Do they fall out effortlessly?

When you buy a 2011 by “dialing it in” they mean that your gun likely won’t run. Some work is to be expected tuning your ammo, mags, and the like in order to achieve 100% reliability. This is particularly true of a gun a newcomer to Limited is likely to buy, like an STI DVC. Like the Glock, the CZ will need some minor work for optimal results. But the gun will run 100% with factory ammo right out of the box. You’ll never ‘tune’ a magazine. If you want a light smooth trigger, you’ll do some internal polishing and change a few spring out... just like guys do with a glock. That’s the tinkering people refer to.

Works great. Feels like really grippy skateboard tape that never wears out: Fundamental Rockhound Products: 2 lb 60/90 Coarse GRIT for Rock Tumbling polishing Silicon Carbide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JTJG3GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DWCmDbQR05HAD

Over 20 years ago they came out with a gamer gun, the 34/35. Their tactical / LEO market is so overwhelmingly massive that they haven’t made any firearm models aimed at the competition market since then. Do not look for that to change anytime soon. Now that you have things like the ZEV OZ9 running around approved for Prod and CO... it’s far more likely that one of the aftermarket companies would produce a metal- or tungsten-framed aftermarket Glock.

What gun are you shooting them out of? Have you considered having the chamber throated to let you load a little longer? Walthers have short chambers so I’ve cut all of mine to let them take any 147 out to 1.150” without any loss of accuracy. Had to have a special hardened reamer made, but it was worth it.

All changes of gun (typically when your primary chokes and you switch to an identical backup gun) must be approved by the MD. So it’s up to how much he likes you.

I have run both and prefer the Racers, but either one is a solid choice.

The RMR has the smallest window, the least crisp dot, a tinted lens instead of crystal clear, and is one of the dimmer options out there. But it’s really tough. It’s up to combat abuse, but it isn’t the best choice for competition use.

I’m sure it’s being done due to market pressure from certain other shops which have become big players in the past few years - ones with wait times around that long.

For a local match, yes you’re too picky. I relegate it to practice ammo until I figure out how bad it has to be in order to cause a possible issue - all the slightly sticky ammo goes to a local match though, as I know those will run. If it’s any match out of town? I’d cull anything that didn’t glide through the gauge effortlessly too. Usually I load 800, take the best 50% of it with me, and have leftover ammo for my next local match.

I’ll let ya know either way. I’m using a grams follower intended for a P320 to hit 23 reloadable currently. Curious to see if this works out.

Thanks, @CHA-LEE I have four on the way, and will fit and extensively test one until I’m certain it’s reliable. If it’s a fail, I can still flip the other three in the classifieds and I’m only out $10. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

When they first came out you had the Semi-drop in (SDI) and the gunsmith barrels. SDI barrels work in the vast majority of guns. I fit one to mine and it tightened groups from 8” to 2.5” without any load development to optimize ammo to barrel. Sometimes one is very, very far out and needs the gunsmith fit barrel. This one has a great deal more material on the pads that need trimmed to fit, and is intended to be fitted with a milling machine. The SDI is much closer to dropping in and can be fit with files and patience by hand.