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obsessiveshooter

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About obsessiveshooter

  • Rank
    Calls Shots
  • Birthday 12/25/1977

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    leightoncash@gmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Evergreen CO
  • Interests
    I would shoot every match if I could, but with a wife and kids I only shoot 2-3 matches a month. I'm an A class Limited shooter, shooting a CZ TS. When I'm out with the family we are either skiing, hiking, or going to a local skatepark. I'm rleightonc on instagram.
  • Real Name
    Leighton Cash

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  1. To break it down, you want to be certain you are dropping the right amount of powder, that you are making bullets that are the correct length (for the cartridge, and for your pistol), and that you are getting your crimp right. The rest is just learning the quirks of your machine and how to adjust this and that. Spend the time watching the videos to learn how to get the priming system to work on the Pro 1000. It is helpful to understand how to make a finished cartridge on a single stage press before moving on to a progressive press, because with a progressive it is doing a lot at once and w
  2. I added weight to a Canik [basically a g34] by swapping out the guide rod, adding weight at the back strap, and by using the TF brass 140mm base pads. That made the Canik feel like a substantial, well-balanced pistol. I'd say the brass base pads made the most significant difference.
  3. This is the advice I was searching for. Thanks! I'm going with milling. I like the idea of removing roughly the equivalent weight of the optic from the slide mass, instead of adding the weight of a DT and the optic to the slide. And having the dot sit lower will be nice, since I'm primarily an iron sight shooter. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  4. So what's the consensus here? I know the dovetail mount will add weight and push the optic a bit higher, but do those two things make a noticeable difference on the dot returning to zero, as compared to a milled slide on the same pistol? And, if it does slow you down with a dovetail mount, does removing weight elsewhere on the slide make it even between the two options? Thanks, searching on Enos didn't turn up much current info on this topic.
  5. You want this to run with glock mags, and it should. Thats the design. The psa feed ramp needs help. Fix it and it will run flawlessly. The thread I started about this was titled "help me understand this ruptured case", in the PCC section. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  6. Polish the feed ramp and ease the edge where it becomes the chamber. That's what I did and it runs perfect now. I posted about it, search and you'll see the thread. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  7. That is incredibly nice work!! You definitely have a market for those. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  8. Any high level shooter can get used to a different trigger, if it is workable. A TS/TSO trigger has very little travel and is usually sub 2 lbs with a rolling break. It is different from a 2011 trigger, but better or worse is a matter of preference. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  9. I cut up the factory hanger portion and drilled holes for regular hardware. It mounted to an Aandabooks ebay hanger. This is solid and I dont think I can gain anything by buying a new holster. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  10. This is good news, thanks everyone! I'll give them a try. It would be a bonus if they help smooth out the finicky priming on my Lee press. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  11. I'm not sure I'll be able to find my go-to Winchester primers before A3. Should I be concerned about my single action pistol lighting off CCI primers with a 21 lb hammer spring, if I took extra care to fully seat the primers? It would be nice to know that I can use any primers I find in stock. From years of reading the forums, I've come to believe that CCI primers cups are made of depleted uranium, or shavings from Thor's hammer.
  12. When switching to Limited from production, you need to be prepared for the increase in hair on your chest. There will also be a sudden increase in the number of clear blue sky days, twenty dollar bills found lying in the street, and ideal parking spots left open in every parking lot you enter. And I'm happily married so I have no experience with this, but I hear that single Limited shooters don't stay single long, usually pairing up with an Eastern European fashion model, the kind that walking down the street leaves behind them a trail of stunned shaken men & the faint scent of Chanel and
  13. In my case, I'd be driving far further to buy One Shot from a store. And if a different, more readily available and cheaper lube worked better, I think that's worthwhile information. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  14. Thanks Sarge, I saw that post months ago and for the life of me couldn't find it again through the search function. Has anyone else tried the RV dry lube? That poster states that silicone is the ingredient you don't want, can anyone else verify? The MSDS sheet for One shot doesn't list the lubricant type, and neither does the Liquid Wrench RV dry lube. The MSDS for the WD40 dry lube says the lubricant is petroleum based.
  15. Also, I've tried the J-ames bullets. So far they are cheap, reliable, don't lead, but they are the first bullet I've used that is noticeably inaccurate. I've used BBI, Bayou, Precision, and Brazos and all were basically the same in accuracy, to the point that I thought the idea of load development for accuracy in pistol was a waste of time. But 1.25" groups at 13 yards though my canik with a red dot became 6" groups with the J-Ames. I'll have to dig in to the issue more, but I've learned that not all bullets are plug-and-play.
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