MemphisMechanic

<edit: double tap, oops>

Yeah. I wouldn’t have minded the nasty blue if I’d been wanting a Limited. But I cerakote my guns just because I can, even when they aren’t hideous colors. I would have just fixed the problem!

There are a couple of them in the US. You just have to have a national championship or two to get a copy.

You must be new to Italians. Guns or cars, their products have an amazing amount of ‘personality’ to them. Keeps life exciting.

I dislike the Bolo for the same reason. Like Jay, I want a trigger with some creep and pretravel before the break. Used to rolling through it.

@Wiseguy724 I assume you’re already familiar with Tanfoglio internals due to your Limited gun experience, and through my Tanfoglio Tuning youtube videos or some other means. If you’re not, and you’ve never had your Limited gun totally stripped down? Do it. Clean it up nice, and learn that parts removal/polishing/spring replacing is super easy to do.

Tell him which parts you put in your gun. Always good to hear various build lists and the results. You get as much pull quality “smooth as glass” from hours behind the buffer and/or dremel polishing things as you do from the springs in a tanfoglio. Very different from the striker-gun world I went back to (Walther PPQ / Q5) where there’s not much to polish and springs are all the weight difference.

@IHAVEGAS I’ve never held an Extreme so I can’t dispute this claim - but it’s good to know that they *state* they’re better fitted.

No reason to buy an Extreme edition when a few bucks worth of spring, polishing, and a single-piece sear will get you a better trigger on a standard model substantially cheaper.

I liked the part where you told a Limited GM who often finishes in the top 20 at Nationals to go buy a membership to a website which can teach him how to shoot.

Grip. Harder. With both hands. No no. Harder that that. Okay. Now you’ve got the strong hand down. CRUSH the gun into tiny little pieces with your weak hand. Your weak thumb moves solidly with the frame of the gun during recoil. Most people don’t accomplish this. Film them in slow mo and you’ll see that only the strong wrist is really taking the recoil. (I’m not specifically addressing your wrist locking query, I’m focusing on the motivation behind it. The desire for better recoil control and a gun that snaps back to center alpha.)

Do you expect us to believe you sort your brass by headstamp and reset your Dillon 1050s swaging station meticulously to perfectly match each and every brand of brass? Thousands of us successfully load mixed brass with the swage station set to clean up every primer pocket we run into. Without any problem whatsoever.

I consider one drop on my digital scale hilariously imprecise, and won’t base any judgement off of that. I’m not aware of any scale in the $50 price range with enough resolution to accurately measure .01 grain increments. All of my reloading data is recorded to the hundreths, as is the data lots of guys post on here. When you see that we’re weighing 5 to 10 drops and taking an average. My target powder drop for Prima V might be to see 37.5 gr on the scale after I’ve dumped 10 charges onto it. Repeat that process 3 times and you really see trends. For example? a consistent powder might be 37.5 37.40 then 37.55. Likewise, one that doesn’t meter consistently will be all over the map.

Fixed it for you. The .010” length variation is normal. Go shoot them; if they chrono well and shoot a tight group, don’t worry about what your calipers are telling you.

Gen 3-4... or Gen 5? In a 3rd or 4th gen, anything that will fit in the magazine (which typically limited you to 1.150-1.160”) would fall into the chamber with room to spare. 5th generation guns are much much less generous.

... good move avoiding the indoor range. At age 28 I was running indoor IDPA and went from a 6 to a 13 in a few month’s time. I firmly believe the primary exposure to heavy metals from shooting is breathing in the nasty fouling that gunfire results in. It’s airborne. I did not reduce my outdoor range time and was shooting 3 all-day matches a month. I did not change my coated-bullet reloading habits beyond wearing nitrile gloves while doing so. The only thing I hugely changed was completely avoiding that poorly-ventilated indoor range which had a bare steel backstop... Which is just as bad as your steel bay at causing high levels of lead in the air. My lead level plummeted over the next six months, back to 8. I don’t shoot near as much anymore, and now it’s at 4 or lower typically. (I also work in an industrial environment which undoubtedly results in higher than office-worker levels.)

I don’t understand why ETS, , Magpul, and Korean mags exist. (Except for @warpspeed‘s use anyway. ) Factory Glock mags are some of the cheapest out there, and they’re as boringly reliable as magazines get. I guess it’s all about perspective. If you’ve ever owned a 1911, Walther, H&K, SIG, or god forbid a 2011... Austrian mags are a bargain in comparison.

Sell them to a Production shooter and buy a lighter 115-124gr bullet, with one of the powders @himurax13 listed pushing it. Heavy bullets and compensators do not pair well together, end of story - if you care about performance.

That makes sense. If you haven’t actually noticed it, you’ll be surprised how easily you can push the slide slightly out of battery when the striker is cocked. That 13lb spring really needs a running start to consistently run the slide fully into battery. On a striker gun, the 5.5-6 pound striker spring is pushing rearward on the slide, while the recoil spring pushes forward. 13lb minus 5.5 means just 7-8 pounds of effective spring pressure. (Dryfire the gun and you’ll feel the increase in forward pressure on the in-battery slide if you try to tug it backward a little bit, once the striker is released. ) On a hammer gun like a CZ or Tanfo you don’t have anything playing tug-of-war against your recoil spring, and the slide also has to be driven THROUGH the hammer spring as it’s cocked, helping to decelerate it. That’s why we run recoil springs in DA/SA guns which are so much lighter than the ones you use in striker-fired guns. I ran an 8lb recoil spring in my Tanfoglio.

@Michael303 I was happy to have at least 15k bullets / powder / primers on the shelves in my garage when Obama’s entry into office drove 9mm prices through the roof - When you could find any of it. Some of my casual shooter friends stopped showing up at matches altogether. I learned my lesson.

If you don’t spend the $$$ on a Labradar, then go ProChrono Digital. Hands down. Had my pro chrono for over a decade and it’s always worked accurately, in every lighting condition. Every time.

@DKorn light door? Heavy recoil spring?

Yup. Your gun had a fun frontend like my tanfo. Bashing it into things didn’t drive the slide rearward because the dustcover took the hit.

This strategy is pretty much a no-go with all striker-fired guns. Even with a factory recoil spring you’ll often as not wind up 1/8” out of battery. It was one of the neat things about switching to a Tanfo Stock 3 back in the day - the dustcover came 100% forward as far as the muzzle. You can use the muzzle as a door-opening spear all you like.

They’re never the same as they look on paper. If this were a scale drawing which accurately depicts which targets can be seen from which positions, your plain is viable. But that’s never, ever the case.