MemphisMechanic

Move the weight upward, closer to the pivot point. The lower the weight is, the slower it will oscillate.

@Yondering : I haven’t measured how much bullet is actually in the case when I seat a 147 blue to 1.145-1.150” but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s around .200” to .250” When I think to do so, I’ll mark one then pull it and take an exact measurement. I’m now curious. I just knew that longer loads with heavier bullets resulted in much more consistent(ly gauging) ammo. Thanks for the insight as to why.

All of this.

Doing things in USPSA matches that are legal is extremely realistic for shooting USPSA matches, which is what USPSA is intended to make you good at. We’re all missing your point. USPSA will teach you gunhandling and movement skills that are superb to what you will develop anywhere else. But you can’t learn or execute tactics realistically on the clock in a sport, and USPSA doesn’t bother to pretend to try. That’s the best thing about it.

https://ptrinity.com/product/honcho-race-ready/ Recoil operation isn’t at all like a gun with a barrel link. Flip through the photos. The barrel / frame interface works like most striker-fired guns do these days.

There’s no way I’m sorting brass by headstamp for anything smaller than an Area level match or Nationals. The .300” is a useful approximation because if I stay well above it, perhaps 2 rounds out of 500 fail to gauge.

This is why a lot of us throat the barrels in our shorter chambered guns. I run Walthers which have “CZ Short” chambers, so I went so far as to have a carbide reamer made which can cut a hardened barrel. The case wall on a 9mm begins to thicken roughly .300” down from the mouth. A 147 is a much longer bullet than a 124, so you’re already stuffing it back into the mouth a decent amount at 1.125”. Shorten that load up to 1.100” and you’ll see a lot more case gauge failures from the case wall developing a bulge during the seating process. All of my guns (including CMMG Guard PCC and my Walthers with their notorious chambers) can take any bullet profile out to 1.145” now.

I run TTI +5s, primarily because I refuse to use tools to remove a basepad anytime it hits sand or mud to clean it. Factory PPQ mag body.

Nearly. But I haven’t gotten there.

@midatlantic in these two stages, were you aware of those targets existence before you programmed a plan that did NOT include them? Or did you mess your plan up and skip a target on accident?

Repair your sarcasm detector. It’s malfunctioning in the face of very obvious smartassery.

Okay. So we have a Production shooter with a Shadow 2 who cannot legally own fullcap mags because he lives in Maryland. Are you saying that if this man does the following after Make Ready: Chambers a round. Ejects mag. Holsters with hammer back & on safe. Places that mag in a pouch. Draws a new mag. Draws handgun. Inserts full mag. Decocks the gun and holsters. Assumes start position. ...then he should be bumped to Open in any way shape or form? If so, you are reading things into the rules that are not actually there. And no one agrees with you. Hopefully I’m misunderstanding you.

No. That’s a bump to PCC.

140-145ish PF 115gr ammo? You just described winchester white box.

The problem with FACTORY 124 and 147 rounds is they’re not softer than a 115. For that, you have to reload. Run the charge normally underneath a 147 (like 3.0 titegroup) and load a 115 or 124gr bullet with it. It’s hilariously soft. A lot of guys do this for steel challenge. You may need a lighter recoil spring to ensure reliability, and if you go TOO light it’ll be critical to grip the gun hard in order to get it to cycle reliably. This won’t work the compensator at all, but you really don’t need one for a load that soft.

@ATLDave to put it differently: 1911s and Tanfos do not work great until you mess with them. Glocks and M&Ps and such run great... until you mess with them.

If you cycle that slide will the hammer stay cocked? Or does it do the same as with your thumb? The gun works correctly with the original slide, but not with your second slide installed? Does the gun function test correctly with the slide removed? You ARE trying to do all of these things with the safety in the *off* position, correct?

Which positions are you referring to as 1 and 2 and 3? You have: hammer fully down (decocked) against the back of the slide. Half-cock where the hammer is in the center. And fully-cocked where the hammer is at the rear of it’s travel. How do you have two different lengths of slide for a Stock 3? What guns are these slides off of?

Spray the lube onto the bottom of your plastic container in a thin eve coating. Dump cases in. Install lid. Shake. Dump into casefeeder. Keeps it on the OUTSIDE of your cases!

You’d have to ask @1911luvr, but I believe it’s been a very long time since he’s had any made.

Totally agree! I’ll own one again someday soon. Miss mine too much. They can be aggravating to set up if you don’t know how they work. My hair-pulling experience there was why I made the youtube videos, once I understood them. But once you get a Tanfo set up, it runs and runs. I cleaned mine perhaps every 3,000 rounds. I just kept it lubed. They absolutely run just as filthy as a Glock or Walther will, on crappy ammo, if you don’t go light on the springs.

They’re highspeed steel (HSS) and they are softer than a nitrided or hardened barrel. A Manson or Clymer will barely scratch the blackened finish off before the flutes are dull.

I have a carbide reamer I had made through a tool & die maker that @1911luvr found. I had to take .001” off of the pilot with a diamond lap to make it work for polygonally-rifled barrels in Tanfoglios, CZP10s, G5 Glocks... and my Walthers. I’ve cut quite a few barrels for guys with these guns along with my CMMG Guard PCC, which all feature annoyingly short chambers. Tungsten Carbide reamers should be more common.

Sold it to a guy in Oregon. Insane? Why? I shoot the same points at the same pace with a PPQ or G34 that I do with a Tanfo. The gun really doesn’t matter very much - as long as it fits your hands, and runs. I’ll stick with plastic. I’m close enough to M class that I might make a push to crest that milestone in the spring with my tupperware, if I can actually find time to practice. I’m that A class guy who never dryfires.