MemphisMechanic

Early next week I hope to have time to test all the common springs out there: EGD Light & Medium Wolff 13/14/15 Patriot 10/12/13/14/15.5 I'll check them all both trigger pull and pencil height with the Titan/BOLO combination. So we'll have a much more inclusive guide to what happens in the exact same gun with "fully optimized" internals.

The most common setup in USPSA seems to involve having a front post half the width of the rear notch. So 25% daylight, 50% front post, then 25% daylight is what you see through the notch. I like that system, although I think a thin post and a thin notch (1/3 the width of the sight on either side, instead of 1/2) is more precise at distance. Regardless, the sights need to be set up so that when you shift your focus away from the dot to the corners and make hard shots with an "equal height, equal light" sight picture... you know precisely where your rounds will land. I prefer them impacting right at the top of the front post at 25yd but others will set their guns up differently. Vogel's are set up to shoot a couple of inches high I believe, and some shooters prefer to set the gun up to hit behind the fiber optic.

All of them are easily accurate enough for our sport in a good gun with proper load development. Coated are by far the cheapest and load and shoot just as well as the more expensive options. FMJ bullets were the first 10,000 that I shot. I haven't loaded any since I tried coated.

+1 to Nobel Sport Prima V. However if I were rich, I'd rather have a 1050/Mark7/MBF combination to load my own ammo for me, and a D class USPSA peasant to keep it stocked. I have never found a factory ammo that shoots half as well as hand loads, and I like controlling what goes into things.

I see two .40s and two .45s total.

Absoulutely the way to go. Since MecGar is the manufacturer of the factory magazines, you're getting the exact same magazine without "K9" stamped into it for half the price. I've got 2,000 or so rounds through mine without any issues. But if having K9 mags is important to you, there's a guyselling them for $20/ea in the BEnos classifieds.

Mine did that initially too. I filed them flush and they've never come back, with 5,00 rounds or so through the barrel.

I like to make things harder too, with reduced targets in dryfire. If you simulate 7yd targets you can get away with a ton in dryfire. My "standard" dryfire target and distance from it roughly simulate a 12yd paper and 15yd poppers. At that "distance" you need a sight focus to get hits, which helps keep you honest enough that you don't go to live fire and can aggressively shoot a 7yd target without dropping points. (My typical live fire practice is at a dim indoor range, and that makes things sufficiently difficult by itself that I don't scoot the targets back)

Yes. It's common with this brand.

The standard ones around 1/2" seem to be pretty much universal.

He's back. Briefly. It's funny, then he's out. Just like #1.

You are still running the heavier factory trigger bar (plunger) spring, aren't you? Going light on that spring can cause exactly the issues you're having.

Because the odds of anyone noticing are beyond minuscule, perhaps.

The confusion comes from Tanfoglio coming out with the Stock. Then the Stock 2. At which point, people have began referring to the Original as a Stock 1. Then the Stock 3 came out. And finally... a Stock 1. Which is now being confused with the original Stock that people used to call a Stock "One." I'm 75% sure that what I just laid out is correct. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You're not going to hurt the slide by putting it in an oven around 225 degrees, if you decide to go that route. It's all steel, no plastic. I cerakote steel firearm parts regularly, and that's roughly the temperature they get baked at in order to cure the finish.

He's not carrying a gun concealed. He's shooting a sport. A game.

I can't argue with that. My M&P was "minute of dinner platter" at 25yd before the Apex barrel when shooting 147s, so the 2.0 is certainly better.

4 inches at 25yd isn't great at all, but it's better than the old guns were.

Looks like they've been deleted. I had links to them saved in my phone so I know they were valid.

If your classification brings to outpace your skill, that seems like good motivation to practice and catch up. Not to whine about it. But that's just me.

Ironic that you say that, since unlike SSP ESP and Production there probably won't be enough shooters at anything short of Nationals to earn any of their money. 6 shooters required in your specific division and class.

Is that based on personal experience? I haven't used it on a Tanfo yet, but the sights on my Glock's and M&Ps always went back on with red loctite, and I've never had issues disassembling the slide afterward. You'll lose the front post on a Glock if you try to use blue.

You're supposed to put the oil & grease on the *inside* of the gun. Honestly, I suppose that's a good enough reason. But exposure during weapon cleaning is about 0.3% of my total contact given my occupation, so it's never occurred to me that people would be concerned.

@rooster why are food grade products in any way desireable on a firearm? I've always considered that a minus - more likely to go rancid or spoil when stored for extended periods or break down under extreme heat. The most highly stressed metal-on-metal you'll find is probably in automotive racing, not in "Hell's Kitchen." So that's where I turn for lubricants to use on guns.

Cleaner: brake parts cleaner. If it's hard chromed or blued, it'll be fine. Lube: Red synthetic bearing grease or 10/30 motor oil, depending on location. Anything more is just marketing.