MemphisMechanic

Only one? The El Prsidente. It's a classic for a reason. Good luck getting good at movement through a stage using this, though.

Good point. I'd definitely want to hold one first.

Although it'd likely to be cheaper to sell your "CO ready" CZ to someone who is looking to dive into that division and buy a backup Tanfo.

Visualization. There is a ton of information on that topic here if you search. Before the run ... you should be able to close your eyes and play the whole thing in your mind like a movie, in detail. That applies to both sports. In IDPA you need it because you only get to walk through once without an air gun. In USPSA you need it because stages are longer and more complex, and you have many ways to shoot some of them. It helps everywhere.

It also sounds like you need to do more walk through repetitions in USPSA. You should do the exact same unchanged "airgunning" after your plan is set. Over and over, until every move and every reload and movement is memorized. And don't just do what the advanced guys do. Take the simplest possible plan every time right now. As you get better you'll be able to pull off more complicated strategies, shoot hard targets on the move, etc. If you can't execute your plan perfectly at least times out of 10, it's the wrong plan or you haven't rehearsed it enough. A poor plan executed perfectly always beats a perfect plan executed poorly. Consistency wins matches far, far more often than pure speed alone does.

Personally in the USA what I would do if my home is properly wired / grounded would be to take a cheap 3-prong extension cord from and cut it off at enough length to reach the bench comfortably. Cut the black and white wires short and meticulously insulate them with wire nuts, heat shrink, electrical tape, or whatever makes you comfortable. Then strip the green wire's insulation and attach it to a bolt head holding the press to the table, and plug it in. Feel free to verify the green wire actually connects to the ground prong with a meter - only because if I don't mention that some really bored safety nazi is going to come after me for it...

Just order them to shoot Minor with. Then load them in whatever you want to.

Right now you have to think to drive the gun through the stage, just like a 16 year old driving a car. A year from now, that part will be automatic, and you'll no longer feel a racing heart rate and a rush of adrenaline on the line waiting for the beep. (Much sooner, if you practice often and dryfire) Eventually you learn to have a calm mind during stages. Always take the makeup shots and change where you reload as needed. Do an extra one to get back on your plan in USPSA if you need to, but you need the points. You just need them fast

Have you talked to @Kingman at RHT about the holster? Everything I've seen from them has been top notch, and my Stock III RedHill holster fits far better than the blade-tech I first got for it.

That's exactly why I've been doing it.

Regarding PE's, they're typically a 5-6 second penalty. Guys realize they just earned one... and stop. Wait. Confused. Start to do something. Stop. Then finally do something else. While apologing to the RO or cussing at themselves, and finally return to plan. Just grab another mag and go. Under the old rules I have twice won a stage with a procedural because I did something honestly unintentional that turned out to be an advantage... and I didn't hesitate. We won't mention they first few years of indecision and dropped-mag pickups before I figured that stuff out.

I never understood why people would even think to count rounds: Just know beforehand which shot on which target is going to lock the slide back. Simple is consistent, and consistent wins matches. IMO, try working your way down to consistent 1 second USPSA speed loads, then a reliable 1.3-1.5 second reload will be comfortable in field courses, which is honestly all you need for a very long time. Most of the reload takes place with your weak hand. Film yourself and play it back. Compare the speed your offhand dips down to the belt and returns with a mag to that of the top guys on YouTube. Don't just nod your head and skip that step: everyone has a cameraphone these days. Actually film your load and see what your "warp speed hands" look like compared to a top guy. Watch the speed of the hands - the gun and the mags are distractions. I think you'll lean that your weak hand is moving a lot slower than you think it is. And is capable of going much faster than you think. You just have to practice "120% speed" reloads until that's your new normal.

I spent the first four years in IDPA. SSP/ESP Master who has a shiny "1st Master" plaque or two from state matches: This predated 1.0 sec per PD, so there are a lot more makeup shots now. I haven't shot the game under new rules, so factor that into the below: I always determine exactly will shot will lock the gun open. "Okay, the second round on the third target in the window is where I go empty" and I would plan as best as possible for likely places I'd need a makeup shot before it. If there's a 10 yard headshot just before the window, there's a decent chance I might take a third shot at that, so that means I'm probably going empty sooner. Rather than counting rounds, I'm simply thinking as I move to that window about which shot was two rounds before the one I planned for, if I've fired two makeup shots at that point. That also allows for additional mental prep during your stage planning: "My reload is supposed to be the second shot on target X. If I take two makeups it'll be in the middle of shooting Y, and three means it'll go empty as I transition into target Y." Additionally, "game" your makeup shots to position your reload where you want it. It's always much more consistent to shoot a target twice and load while transitioning to the next one than it is to shoot-reload-shoot on the same target. Not only is it fractionally faster, you also won't make mistakes like pulling or rushing shots at the start or end of the reload. My goal on any reload is to have my weak hand racing downward and the mag release depressed before the gun comes down from the recoil of the last shot. If you're at all uncertain of your round count, take the 1/10th of a second to SEE the slide locked back before committing to dropping a potential procedural-earning magazine to the floor... but try to know that the gun is going to be empty before you press that trigger. And never never never never pick up a magazine you dropped 1 or 2 shots too early. It's a fixed three second penalty you eat and run. You can't load and grab that magazine in less than 3-4 seconds in match conditions, and oftentimes you make additional errors in bending down with the other magazine in your hand, flustered, trying to decide what you need to do. Decide right now that you'll always leave a dropped magazine on the ground and never break that rule. Load and run. Orrrrr just switch to USPSA and load whenever you feel like it. That's a lot more fun than SSP to me!

As long as EAA decides they feel like importing that particular model.

As the others have said, in Production you always have the hammer all the way down at the start beep. This is specified in the rulebook. Half-cock is not allowed. To safely device the gun, don't pinch the hammer. You will eventually slip if you do it that way. Instead, place your thumb between the hammer and the slide, press the trigger, and slowly roll your thumb out of the way.

Run it in and test over and over, until the hammer won't quite drop in double action or single action. I forget which one goes away first... so check both. Congratulations. You've just found "too far." Now back it off juuuuuuust until normal function returns. That's where most people leave it, and this will eventually cause problems. So back it off another half turn, perhaps even a bit more. And keep it there with loctite blue. Asjusting it too tightly can result in issues when the gun gets hot or dirty, and will cause big headaches if there's some wear in the action parts later on

What you have is also no worse for the gun that what happens when you dryfire it in double action. Won't hurt anything.

I get my gun in position with the hammer perhaps 1mm forward of being fully cocked back into the SA position. Cock the hammer. Pull the trigger. Then immediately catch the hammer. What you have is the final 10% of the DA trigger stroke, and that's not what I was trying to make the gun feel like. Try manually holding the hammer in various positions and seeing what kind of trigger stroke you wind up with. Then use electrical tape to keep it wherever it feels most like your SA trigger's travel. (I'm not nearly as worried about pull weight as I'm about the trigger moving as close to the way it does in SA as possible)

The Stock 3 poly could be a hell of an IDPA blaster. It's probably the way I'll go if I shoot any IDPA again, now that it exists and I do all my training with a metal Stock 3

Check the trigger to see if it has a pretravel stop up in the frame. If so, you may simply need to back that off slightly to let the trigger move forward the slightest bit more. I'm not familiar enough with the SA guns to knows if your trigger has one or not, but that's where I'd go if my gun were equipped with one.

As I said, good luck keeping it from tilting 1 degree up toward horizontal (and getting an uprange DQ) while moving at even a walk. Much less moving without getting a calf or foot in front of the muzzle and earning a trip to Dairy Queen for a different reason.

Have him cut Novak 1911 dovetails into it for sure... everyone makes sights for those and you'd have a lot more options than Tanfo. Then use Dawson's perfect impact guarantee to dial in your gun without having breakage-prone adjustable sights!

I want to watch a shooter index a muzzle EXACTLY straight down during a high speed "wrong way" turn without either bringing it one degree sloped uprange, or sweeping his own leg/foot. (What I'm picturing in my mind is a shooter who was at the left end of a wall, and spun the long way around to his own left, in order to move to the right end of that wall. More or less a 270-degree spin.)

I think it's 17. But I could be wrong. Glock uses a 17 in factory 9mms.