MemphisMechanic

Definitely agreed. I'm fond of bare aluminum because they don't look like garbage after a year of being dropped and having the anodizing chipped off.

4.0 is the virtual standard for minor with a 124 FMJ over titegroup. Same with 3.0-3.2 and a 147 FMJ. I would suggest 3.5 - 3.7 TG as the likely happy spot with a coated 130gr bullet. Based on my own experience with TG you'll see very little velocity change with a midweight bullet between 1.090" and 1.150" so load whatever your guns like. Be prepared for a somewhat smoky time. Some guys don't notice how much titegroup smokes behind anything that isn't jacketed. Some guys can't stand it, and switch powders.

Reloads are smooth with that hogged-out magwell. But they make it nice and sexy, too.

Personally I'd buy an LP and shoot the hell out of it with a similar trigger to your S2. **Then** decide which division you want to use either gun in. Now that they're discontinued, you'd have zero problems selling/trading an LP for a second S2 if you choose to go that route.

I'm a huge fan of the henning pad. Why every competition pad isn't machined to match the angle of the mag instead of the frame is truly beyond me.

1/16" for the ambi safety roll pin. 3/32" for the trigger pin.

When you have a black hardcover popper and a white target popper sharing the same stand? You're gonna have some reshoots. This common occurrence has been commented on by quite a few guys who went in other threads. And yes, Alex Gutt was shooting a Lim Pro at Nationals. He likes the longer sight radius, according to the Front Sight article:

Do you think they will listen? I would be shocked if more than 50 Lim Pro's really would have gotten built for IDPA domination in the next few years. Need to import what sells.

You stop on entry, find the first target in each position or port with your eyes, then bring the gun up. You should have the gun up in front of your eyes as you enter the position. This costs you easily 0.75-1.5 seconds per position. You walk from place to place. I know it feels fast, but you're strolling. Pick up any handgun and film yourself moving about indexing on various light switches around a room, using your phone. Watch it. Do it again and again until it LOOKS FAST and doesn't just feel that way. You'll be shocked how much faster you can actually move. What is going on with your grip? Do you have an injured weak hand finger? I see it sticking out in front of the gun but there's no good way to see it from the front. Your weak hand is bored. It's not helping you soak up recoil. Use it. Crush the gun with your weak hand like you're trying to give it a Neanderthal handshake.

If your overtravel screw is adjusted to just barely permit the hammer to drop, then you can run into issues where the sear rubs against the half-cock notch on the hammer... and slows it down on its way forward to strike the firing pin. If your gun has an overtravel adjustment of any kind, adjusting until it barely fires then backing out 1/2 to 3/4 generally works well. You won't notice a extra 0.1mm of finger movement when shooting, but the gun will! I generally tell people to leave the screw out entirely when tuning it for reliability, then install it and adjust it after a few thousand perfect rounds are fired.

warm gun, warm tape. I use both brake cleaner and alcohol to make sure the group is completely devoid of any oils.

Strip the sights and safeties off... fill the grips with helium...

So far your experience tracks with the rest of us who have switched. Draws. Loads. DA shots from the holster on tight partials... I'll be interested to see if you find you have trigger-freeze issues in matches during close "hosing" shooting on multiple targets, once match season rolls around.

"Don't ask, don't tell." You asked. Oops.

@B_RAD is seriously thinking about selling his too. Already fitted with a bunch of PD parts.

Well, I have not tested it myself. But several people have mentioned that striker fired guns like a Glock are lucky to even clear the barrel. But they will chew up CCI primers like there's no tomorrow.

Try taking the firing pin block out and shooting it. That's a pretty helpful test, in these cases.

Interesting. So your heavier and longer firing pin is not - as of this writing - better than the factory one.

Put a few hundred through the first one, and then pull it down and look very carefully at the sear housing, trigger bar, disconnection, hammer hooks, etc for wear marks. Then shine them up. This (the johnbu method") worked really well for me. My pull weights are still a bit higher than some, but that really doesn't matter when your trigger glides like it's riding on ball bearings. Not at the range anyway - only on the internet.

What is the difference in accuracy you find with your hand-sorted ammo? Are chrono velocities or group sizes more consistent? I'd honestly be surprised if they are, but I have an open mind about it.

You don't. Trimming it makes the gun throw brass LESS aggressively.

Their guns are just like an Italian supercar or model. Sexy, awesome when they're running right... but you've gotta f**k with it a lot to keep it properly in tune.

That sounds correct. I can confirm tomorrow night, but you need exactly two. They live in the small toolkit in my range bag. (And only one punch if you don't have an ambi safety.)

Run your ammo at 133-135 PF or so for a while, and see if you like it more. You probably will, and it'll run the gun a pinch more aggressively.

11 pounds for $178 was a smoking deal. Couldn't be more pleased with V in 9mm minor. I'm a bit more than halfway through my first bottle. Its insane how clean this leaves the gun. Right up there with VV powders.