MemphisMechanic

Was it noticeably closer than anything else has been so far?

I have a full round of hammer springs to pencil test. I'll launch the same rod with my M&P and G34 when I check them all. Thanks for making me curious and - getting me doing more work.

Someone here said they cut down a plastic coat hanger. Ingeniously simple, readily available. I'll be using that next time. For whatever reason, I think there's little correlation between striker guns and hammer ones in "pencil testing"

(If you type @waktasz with an @ symbol in front, it'll let you click on his name and it turns into a blue box.) Now he will get a notification to visit this post next time he logs in since I just used his name. So he'll actually see this.

So today's match... Dryfire has gotten everything down for me except for the single action trigger at speed. I still trigger freeze if I really try to hammer down for the first few stages, until I get used to the trigger again in live fire. Had maybe 3 mag changes that hung up, but nailed the rest clean. I also ran 200 rounds of winchester-primed ammo through the gun with a 13 pound Patriot spring without a single hiccup. I'll be going back to my CCIs and heavier springs, but it was good to know that the gun will work 100% with that ammo and spring combination.

Maybe it isn't. Not for you anyway. A lot of the top guys load up really high, but not all of them.

With a properly adjusted FCD (barely crimps the case mouth back to straight) I find that my reject rate for my shockbottle case gague is around one round per thousand. 999 out of 1,000 run through the gun flawlessly. As long as you don't have a flipped or a high primer, or a similar issue. I still gauge my match ammo, but rejects are very rare. With Redding and Dillon and similar crimp dies, they were more common. Seating a bullet means shoving it down into the case, and sometimes the walls bulge just slightly. Many will tell you the FCD is a band-aid you don't need or will cause accuracy problems. But if you learn to adjust it properly so it isn't swaging the bullet nor crimping into it, it works great.

Interesting viewpoint. Alex Gutt (2016 Production National Champ) is pretty much the go to guy for Tanfo reload porn, with his Lim Pro: @WJM's reload: Both of them load in roughly the "where you clap your hands" position. Ben Stoeger famously loads even lower and closer. So... I don't know if you're unusual, or they are. Dont forget that my magwell is throated big time, either. I did a few loads last night with my G34, and it is now much harder to load at speed than the Tanfoglio.

You're good. No offense taken! On the drills? If you can't crush them standing still, they won't be any better on the move. I also put that video up because static ones are easiest to film. Most of my actual practice is trying to nail reloads during a short movement of about 5-6 feet, being up and ready to shoot upon arrival. Those are the most challenging ones to hit without screwing up your runs in live fire.

For reloading, just grab a $20 digital caliper from Harbor Freight and call it good. We're not building a space shuttle here. +/- .001" would honestly be just fine with me. http://m.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html

Your gun has different timing than a gun with the Titan / Bolo combination, obviously. I wonder if it's advantageous. In simple terms, I'm wondering if the hammer is cocked back further in DA before it is released and you get more oomph from the same springs. I still have my factory disconnector and hammer. It would be interesting to swap those in and see if I need as much hammer spring, or less, or more.

Hey. I found the sarcastic retort... Lets return back to the original topic - Apologies to the OP for the side show.

It was. But that didn't end up being as far as I needed to go, right? Now we know that a factory plunger, EGD Med hammer spring, and PD springs/parts everywhere else will make a Tanfo fire anything that a Glock will eat. If you're primers aren't high, it's going to go bang. We didn't know that until I put that combination together. Or at least, no one suggested it aside from @johnbu guessing it could be a winning recipe. Sidenote: I know of two other people who had the same issue I had (they run factory ammo) and asked me what I did via PM. They're both now rocking an EGD Medium spring in a gun that eats Freedom ammo, hard European primers, and anything else. You might find my little journey frustrating for whatever reason, but not everyone has felt that way.

Usually the ignored advice begins like this: "Remove your lightweight plunger spring and install the factory one..."

Okay. One last time: I load on a 650, and I'm not changing that for at least two years. Nor spending hours a week hand-priming. The question all along was "what will this gun need to fire the ammo I currently load, so that it will eat any factory or reloaded ammo on the planet?" You kept missing that.

Not every piece of advice. Just the ones that wanted me to run a gun that won't chew up rusty soviet-bloc primers coming out of a 650. Because they did my thinking for me, and decided that lightweight triggers are a thing I need. If someone had hopped in there and said "run an EGD Medium and it'll pop anything if trigger weight isn't important" then we could have saved 8.5 pages. More polishing wasn't the answer. Huh. Imagine that.

So we agree on the location and reason. Excellent. I haven't stoned anything, just polished them deeply. I don't want to go any lower, so I'm content to stop short of stoning and geometry changing or cleaning up machine marks.

Mine's not getting any shinier buddy. I have a frame full of wet chrome-dipped parts. So... Go fish. I think it's just tolerance stacking. Fortunately, I'm good with it. (My money is actually on variances in sear and hammer hook machining / geometry)

I haven't worried about it. The trigger I s already lighter than I really care for it to be, and is taking a lot of dry and live fire to adapt to.

Not at all. Production is for DA/SA and striker guns ... and thus prohibits a single-action first shot. Limited does not. So you get to start with the hammer back on safe - even if you're shooting the exact same gun. Simple enough.

I'm going to stack two EGD Mediums, and fill the middle with re-bar.

It's all in the ammo. If a CCI is bottomed out, you don't need much to set it off. If they're loaded on my particular 650, many of them need driven into the pocket a few thousandths to set them off. I run so much spring (EGD Medium) because of ammo I feed my gun, and for no other reason. As an experiment, I loaded 300 Winchesters last night. There *buried* down in there. I'll be trying a 13 pound PD hammer spring with them shortly. Sunk Winchesters up front, CCI in back. Loaded back to back with no changes to press or brass. EDIT: And my SA is a pound heavier than most. Polished to hell with all the goodies and a 13# PD spring, it's 2lbs 14oz. Doesn't bother me though - shoots just fine.

Except that you'll pay a lot less to feed a 9mm gun that's every bit as competitive in SSP ESP and Production / Carry Optics. Affordable practice is very helpful in improving in skill! You really do need to figure out what divisions you'll want to shoot, and find a gun that's optimized for those particular ones. As the old saying goes, Jack of all trades...

He's a handgun masochist. (Pretending I'm not planning to run CCI Mags, over here... )

BOSS Hanger from Ben Stoeger Pro Shop. $50ish. Double-layer kydex holster body from @Kingman at Red Hill Tactical. $60ish. This combination is twice as rigid as anything else I've used, it's seriously impressive. I thought the BOSS by itself was stout, but how much of a difference a double-thickness holster makes? Equally surprising. Even with the heavy pig that is an S3 on your belt, there's no flopping around jogging uprange to clear the stage after resetting, etc. Blade-tech DOH's are for chumps.