MemphisMechanic

Oh hell. I'm dying. This is a classic example...

Whatever is on sale. You can also buy "gun scrubber" which is mostly acetone, just like brake cleaner. But costs 400% more due to a citrus scent and because it comes with 128% more marketing. http://www.realgunreviews.com/whats-really-in-gun-cleaners-lube/

Factory guide rod. 13lb IMSI flat wire recoil spring. There's no need to spend money on a guide rod.

Brake cleaner, then lubed with 10/30 motor oil and red synthetic bearing grease. Every few thousand rounds or so. I'm not picky. Historically my guns have gone 2 to 5 thousand rounds between cleanings. They do get oiled before every range trip - I'm just not obsessive about having a spotless gun. I grew out of that a long time ago, just like most USPSA shooters seem to. A good thorough detail cleaning happens whenever I go into it to change hammer springs or something... or before a major match.

You can do it. I did it to my Tanfo. My conversation with DNROI is located right here: ...you better believe I got the official OK before grinding on the frame of a $900 gun!

I wonder what the price point is going to be. If it's a $599 gun I could see a few of these getting sold in lieu of the 2 and 3. Grip tape isn't pretty, but it works as well as checkering. Also, if it's the right height I'd be all over swapping my adjustable rear out for that fixed one. More than one LPA rear has come apart on Tanfo shooters at the worst possible time. I'm a big fan of fixed sights on competition guns that get beaten up and see high round counts.

My gun, fit with unmodified Titan, unmodified BOLO, 1pc sear, and all the goodies. Single action: and double action: (I wedged my finger in there and caught the hammer in a spot where the trigger just barely won't push it backward anymore at the end of it's stroke.) All my hammer and disconnector received was a light polish. One of these days I'd love to take it apart and figure out how to f*#k with the timing to drive the hammer back further in DA. I believe that would definitely help with heavy poorly-seated primers.

More like a stock III lite I also see a fixed rear sight, thinner "can't ride on me" safety which I assume is probably non-ambi, crappier frame checkering, and its also missing the extended mag release and a trigger with an overtravel stop.

Not only are they the same, the regular one piece sear tends to be cast better than the Xtreme version. The non-xtreme version is preferred by more than one Tanfo junkie here on BE.

I will test the 15.5 PD soon, and I'll also say that my gun with the EGD Medium is 6.75 pounds. It really isn't bad to shoot in match conditions.

With a fully decked gun (Titan / Bolo / etc) and everything polished like glass I had 100% reliability with Winchester primers and a 13 pound PD spring. The primers were seated really really deeply - the gold ones in the foreground of this image. Same gun with the silver CCI primers in the background won't ignite more than 50% of them in DA without adding3.5 pounds of hammer spring. CCIs are harder, as we all know. But in addition to the thicker cup being more difficult to strike with the firing pin, it is also harder for your machine to press a primer into place. My 650 simply won't get them as deep as the Wins in the foreground.

No, the only things that matter to strike force? Those are the hammer, it's springs pins and holes, and the firing pin, it's spring, it's liner, and the firing pin block. Everything else affects pull weight, but once you've released the hammer they are out of play.

You MUST properly crimp your rounds when assembling them to conduct the plunk & spin test. The mouth of the case needs to be able to seat firmly at the front of the chamber. If you haven't, start over! The case wall needs to have absolutely no trace of outward flare. Not even .001" of it.

If your primers are seated all the way down well below flush, that setup should light off Winchester primers just fine. (and federals are more sensitive than a liberal at a Donald Trump rally, so you're good there.)

Thats largely how I use IDPA nowadays. Honestly the reason I stopped shooting IDPA had nothing to do with rigs and guns and round counts. It was the ability to enter and exit positions effectively in USPSA. IDPA style was killing me. But you're right. Sorry guys. Back to Lim Pro discussions!

<post edited to delete confusion about BBI 135s - they DO need to be loaded short>

Yes. At different OALs due to various ogives. I have loaded approximately four different brands and weights for gun A at 1.150"+ and gun B needs them to be down around 1.090"-1.115" ... I'm well aware which weapon is my limitation. I'm hunting for the heavy round with the most friendly profile for short chambers in order to minimize the limitation. You just talked yourself full circle, and we are now standing in the same place: "which heavier bullet will let me load longest in a short barrel, in order to minimize the issues that arise from seating a long 147 waaaay back into some brands of brass?"

Good. Then it'll lure them over USPSA if they want to shoot it, so that they can actually have fun. I spent 5 years shooting IDPA and won several 1st place SSP Master plaques at State matches. Them came over to USPSA and saw the light and never went back!

Theyre in a spot that's going to be rubbing on the holster. Don't think grip tape will work unless he likes a LOT of holster tension.

How long was that? How long was that? How long was that? The Bayou 135 is a bullet I like. I've always liked the way 135s shoot nearly as soft as 147s yet nearly as cheaply as 124s

Like the CZ guys, M&Ps with factory barrels have very short chambers. Unlike you CZ guys, they are hardened and cannot be reamed/throated. My girl shoots matches with me occasionally, and she has an M&P. We we all know profile & ogive vary from bullet to bullet. Which heavier bullets (124, 130, 135, or 147) have you guys found were the most friendly to guns like a CZ or M&P with a really short chamber? I'm looking for something in that weight that will let me load to 1.120"+ for both her gun and mine. (My Tanfoglio has been throated and I usually feed it 1.150" loads.)

This. Baked-on polymer type deposits in the barrel that were not fun to clean out. Black bullets, Bayou, etc are all very much preferred in my book. My issues were with a 124 or 130gr at 133 power factor.

Email dnroi@uspsa.org and ask. Troy is remarkably good about answering the emails.

That's most of the reason why you have an 8 pound trigger pull. My gun is around 5.8 pounds with a 14# wolf spring, and I have one of the heavier triggers amongst the "super polished" guns around here in the Tanfo forum. My internals do look like that. Heed that image from @ryridesmotox. Polishing helps a ton. Blue Magic, patience, and a dremel are your friends.

I run the same "eats anything" setup. And I agree: If the 15.5 patriot will set off everything, I'll definitely run it in my gun since the Medium spring stacks rather sharply at the end of the pull, and their springs do not. My ammo is literally 'worst case scenario' however. So we will see!