MemphisMechanic

The difference between a properly functioning BOLO and a ruined one is perhaps a few passes with a file at most - just a thousandth or two. Be very careful if you decide to adjust it in any way, as @PatriotDefense said. On the subject of polishing? I used Flitz on my first pass through the gun. At the suggestion of @ryridesmotox I switched to Blue Magic from the auto parts store, and it does indeed give you a fully polished surface much more quickly.

Make sure you polish the pins and their holes like crazy. I found what really helps is to remove pieces slowly after stripping the slide off and looking hard at what makes contact. I think taking the gun down and removing all oil and grease from the parts, then slowly installing one component at a time looking for where it contacts others is a huge help. Initially I didn't polish the underside of the sear cage at all, for example. The trigger bar rides along the bottom it under upward pressure from the plunger. You'll find things you missed or which were smoothed, but are not slick as glass. When you first begin to work on these guns, you just polish everything fairly quickly. After you learn how they work you'll polish the places that matter. Deeply.

I agree with everything johnbu said. I was originally at 8+ pounds with a fourteen pound patriot hammer spring. Went into the gun twice more after shooting a few hundred rounds and really really slicked up the spots where I could see wear. Now my heaviest hammer spring (16.6lb EGD Medium) has me at 6.75lbs, and that same 14 pounder tests right around 5.8 lbs.

Because that ammo will have the softest recoil. We intrinsically assume that a light bullet with a slow burning powder behind it will produce the least felt recoil and muzzle rise. For a variety of reasons, this isn't true. A small charge of very fast powder underneath a heavy bullet is the softest way to load your ammo. Same thing with recoil springs. A heavy one doesn't soak up recoil - it just makes the gun flip more. A spring 4 to 6 pounds lighter than factory is virtually standard in every production shooter's gun.

I got lucky. My S3 only had a 10.8 pound trigger in factory form, and it ate factory ammo just fine.

3 months practice? We shot that in a single weekend with a big name GM teaching a class.

Then it would shoot like a Walther (gotta try to pay us to shoot their guns for a reason) or an H&K... ...and we'd all still be rocking an M&P or CZ or a Glock.

I would. Then polish the hell out of everything back there. More for ease of cleaning than a gain in reliability.

Grip the gun harder. As hard as you possibly can with weakhand. All As on demand at 15 feet shouldn't be challenging as long as you get the gun indexed on the correct spot when you begin.

After trying for a full year, I tried tape and eventually switched to chap stick lightly smeared on the off-eye's half of the glasses. Im very very close to neutral eye dominance, so I'd run into an instance or two per match where I lost the sights and had to squint.

Might be true, but the Tanfos are still extremely easy to swap hammer springs on. Doing it at a casual pace with no rush while testing all the springs PD makes, I wound up requiring about 3-4 minutes per swap.

What he said. The Titan's hammer hooks are repositioned so the sear and safety interact differently. For now? Install a one piece sear. You may need an extended firing pin block. Odds are greater than 50/50 on that I believe. Later on, drop the BOLO and Titan in as a pair, and fit the sear to the safety.

Production 6.68 seconds 8A 1B 3C 86.2537 percent 7.7844 hit factor

Yep. File those raised spots down and they'll never come back.

I'm supposed to say that you cheated and brought an optic and 21-round mags. But you'd have still won if you shot production. There's a reason I'm an A and your accurately classified as M. I'll move this to our text message conversation so we don't clutter up his post. Prepare to be drowned in self-criticism.

Edit: removing incorrect information from the topic.

I'm prooooobably going to post some (much!) more in depth videos on Tanfo tuning basics within a few weeks. These guns are simple. Really, really simple. Ideally I'd talk someone nearby into getting their unmodified gun into my hands, and walk through a full step by step build. Even without that, however, a step-by-step teardown and rebuild and fitting guide is what most of you guys are wanting. The pair of videos by the Australian guy are good. But I know I can do a lot better for those of us looking to learn how to build a production gun.

What he's saying is... always run fast. Whether you're done loading or not. Eventually you'll learn to load fast enough you have the mag seated as you finish pushing off. I'm currently focusing solely on this aspect of my movement game as an A class Production guy. But until you have that wired, stop slowing your running down in order to complete your agonizingly slow reloads in the first couple of casual steps. Learn to stop jogging and start running. Just get a reload in there wherever you can.

Brake cleaner is around 75% acetone, with toluene and another solvent or two composing the rest of the can... Buts it very very much like using an aerosol can of acetone.

Broken slide stops and Trigger springs are incredibly common on CZs. They aren't on Tanfoglios.

Some people don't like that the trigger can rock sideways slightly. It only matters on the bench - you don't notice it when shooting. Highly recommend. (It's the CGW brand trigger pin for the Canik line of pistols that you're looking for.)

No you're definitely right. Most guys build a Tanfo specifically chasing the lightest possible DA pull weight, which isn't important to me at all.

Also note that on Times Two I shot an M score with 52/60 points - 1 B and 3 Cs. We come into this sport as production shooters with "you have to shoot the classifiers clean or you're screwed" beaten into our heads. It took a while to realize the truth behind "just shoot them like any other stage." That doesn't mean hose. And of course it takes "shoot all As" out of the picture too. To shoot know you shot all As you need to back off and make sure everything is well within the A-zone perfs. Those extra-precise sight pictures will take time and that kills HF. Instead shoot them as aggressively as you can expect to shoot almost all your shots as As, but some are going to spread out into close Cs. I stand by my advice. I'd practice entering an array or stand and shoot situation and wailing on the targets leaving 1 or 2 Cs behind and a lot of well-spread As everywhere else. Fast. Dont tolerate Ds, let alone Mikes.

If you shot the pace you show in that YouTube video without any Ds or Mikes in a match, you'd be really dangerous. That's about as simple as I can say it.

More just set the gun up so it doesn't need princess ammo. I'm learning to row a 6.75lb DA trigger pretty well.