MemphisMechanic

https://www.xproducts.com/product/9mm-ar-15-drum/ If it’s this one, it’s out of stock everywhere. And that seems like a longterm thing.

You still touch your bullets to load them? Peasant. MrBulletFeeder for the win.

You have no idea. A dot on a centerfire handgun is nothing like a rifle or .22 pistol. Shooting an array really quickly means the dot usually doesn’t stop moving; you’re shooting with a red “check mark” streaking through the lens.

I definitely have. If you’re into pushing for .12 splits for some reason.... The biggest gain comes from abandoning any type of riding the reset, and coming well out past that point into the trigger’s pretravel. Riding the reset = inevitable trigger freeze.

@sx2gl35 good point. Mine is from 2008 and doesn’t have that going on, either.

Those of us who have loaded for double action guns with light hammer springs on a 650 feel your pain. 1. You didn’t mention primer brand. When we say CCIs are hard, that means more than just how much firing force is needed. They primer won’t be seated as deeply in a tighter pocket either. Winchester and S&B (and obviously Federal unobtanium) primers will seat much more easily than CCIs. That means the press can drive them more deeply into tighter primer pockets. I’ve personally loaded Win S&B and CCI back to back in mixed brass and measured to verify. 2. Loosen the bolts, slip a piece of a washer or sheetmetal under that worn bracket to shim it upward, and load some ammo with the punch 1/16” higher. You might like what happens. I’ve had my 650 like that for 10,000 or so rounds.

@OPENB ...

@DKorn I run BBI 125s and a 13lb spring. I’m happy. Tried 13 and 15 , settled on 15.

You might be surprised. Like Hwansik, I shoot a bone stock Q5 Match which has a 5 pound trigger. Once you’re well practice you need a light trigger in a plastic gun a lot less than you think. (Sevigny ran a nasty gritty stock G34 trigger back when he was Glock captain and winning everything too; I dryfired his match gun. It was impressively factory.)

I’m wearing them in a tough mudder this coming weekend. By my estimation I’ve run 8 to 10 miles this week in them on dry asphalt. They’re broken in. Without a noticeable change. They’re designed purely for dirt and excel there. Much better grip than an Innov8 or Salamander... but you do pay for it on hard wet surfaces. I don’t think I’d take them to a major match where I couldn’t predict the terrain. Oh, and order a half-size large if you have a medium D-width foot. My 11.5s fit my size 11 feet perfectly.

The slide on the standard M2 is within 0.1-0.2 oz of the weight of the Q5’s. I had a friend at Walther weigh them both for me. Susprising, but true. Also, a heavier slide increases muzzle flip: increase the weight that’s reciprocating and your sight picture is affected more. This is why limited and open guns have agressively lightened slides and a lot of weight down in the frame. The frame won’t be affected as much by the action of a cycling slide that way. The gun stays flatter. If you want weight, run the $100 tungsten guide rod that Walther sells. That’s in the right spot to flatten the gun out. All that said... I came from a 45 oz Tanfoglio Stock 3 into the Q5, which means switching from the softest Production gun into one of the snappier feeling guns. My times and hits during a bill drill or the like? No change. The gun feels different, true. But if your grip is doing its job and you’re in tune with the way your gun is sprung? The splits and hits won’t be slowed down. The recoil imuplse’s feel is pretty much irrelevant to how good your scores with a given gun can be.

Forget moving stuff on & off for different disciplines or divisions. Just go buy the $40 shooters connection belt for your second setup. It 90-95% as good as any of the others and cheap enough I don’t mind paying for 2. Been happily running one for 2 years.

They are comfortable for my feet when wearing them all day. They are insanely slippery on hard paved or wooden surfaces when things are wet. No way I’d want to step on a fault line or pressure pad activator in the the rain. These are for dirt, mud, and gravel bays ONLY if it’s rained that day.

How I got used to DA/SA: Only pulled the trigger in DA from the holster for one-shot draws in dryfire. The rest of my dryfire was done by cocking the hammer back around 80% of the way and wrapping the hammer & beavertail with electrical tape to keep it there. Do it by feel, so that the trigger moves as far as it actually would in single action. Then do the rest of your dryfire that way, including lots of work where you’re dryfiring your first shot: four aces, el prez, etc. People think the DA will give them hell. What you’ll actually struggle with is short-stroking the gun or triggerfreezing in Single Action. The first trigger pull is the easy one to learn.

No. Train yourself to use the lever exclusively.

If you want to shoot your true carry rig, jump over to a USPSA match and shoot it in Limited. That’s what I did a while back with an 8rd 9mm Walther PPS:

I have a pair for three weeks now. Here’s my review. 1. Listened to all of the Amazon reviews and ordered half a size large. Size 11.5s did indeed fit my 11 feet perfectly. 2. The rubber sole is hard. Running on pavement after it rains is an ice-skating proposition, and I cannot over-exaggerate that point. Wet wood fault lines, balance beam props, or pressure-plate activators would be seriously dicey in these. You’re GOING to fall somewhere in a match featuring pavement and wood on a rainy day. (I believe @CHA-LEE had a similar experience.) I bought them to possibly be used in USPSA after an upcoming Tough Mudder obstacle course race. I will be sticking with my Adias trail shoes or Under Armour rubber-soled cleats for USPSA. If the match is 100% dry and only includes gravel and grass/dirt... I would possibly be willing to wear Boombahs. Oh, also the Boombah tread is crazy agressive and deep. In wet dirt/grass they’re 90% of a cleat. They are far more agressive than Salamanders or Inov8’s.

I don’t know if this was a factor with mine. When I set up my gun, I mirror polished the chamber. Pulled the extractor and sanded down the burrs in the extractor channel where the slide was drilled fo the pin. Polished the top and bottom surfaces of the extractor itself along with the hole in it, and the pin. Installed the wolff XP spring. I never had any extraction issues.

Eventually the sear cage needs replaced too. I wouldn’tdo it annually but I’d do it at maybe 50k rounds or so.

Small pistol & rifle primers are identical in dimensions. Large rifle & pistol are slightly different sizes. Your issue is normal, but does not apply to running small rifles in 9mm.

So it can choke and cost you the match.

It’s production legal to run a neon green flat trigger from APEX in a “production” gun now. All bets are off in hammers, safeties, triggers, etc now.

What happens to a piece of sheetmetal when you bend it back and forth a few times? It breaks off. Considering the mag is only a few dollar more than a new spring, I’d just buy new mags.

A lot of us ran our factory triggers without that screw installed. You won’t notice the extra mm of overtravel except when firing the gun extremely slowly. I tried it back and forth. I wouldn’t hesitate to leave it out.