MemphisMechanic

Look at the 510C. It’s basically an EOTech done better and cheaper with aimpoint-like battery life. Love that thing.

Alternatively, when I shoot a hammer (one sight picture, two shots at a .15ish split) I focus on coming entirely off the trigger face and then pressing it a second time. Relative to the short travel of an AR, 1911, or CZ/Tanfo type single action trigger, of course. With a polymer Walther or Glock I’m intentionally releasing well out into the pretravel but not quite leaving the trigger face. At any distance I’m trying to go that fast and use a blurry fast single sight picture... I’m not worried about dragging shots out of the A zone. Grip hard and clickclick fast.

@motosapiens he did say “could put your thumb through” and “no grease ring” quite clearly. I can’t see how that would happen without the bullet gouging some plastic off the side of the barrel and taking it through the same hole in the target. I’ve seen that many times and it’s always been a Mike.

Please define what his PCC specific load was, for sure. light or heavy bullet? Fast or slow powder?

That’s the firing pin block (safety) that you’re refering to. No idea why that’s happening: I’ve never seen a Henning pin in person.

I assume you’re shooting outside. If anyone reading this kind of thread struggles with vision and is shooting indoor matches? Stop now and try a single outdoor match. Even if it means a 2 hour drive on the weekend, I can’t stress enough how much of a handicap there is shooting indoors. Second, you repeatedly mention binocular vision being a factor. Have you experimented with closing one eye? Or applying scotch tape to one lens? BOTH EYES MUST BE OPEN is dogma that isn’t always true. Just like we routinely violate “you have to focus on the front sight” dogma in action sports, you just need to see what YOU need to do the task at hand. Squinting or closing an eye is preferable to losing track of the gun every time you find the next target when it comes to shooting fast stage times! I’m closing in on M class and still apply a very thin smear of chapstick on my nondominant lens. It helps me immensiely with shooting both eyes open: I have nearly equal eye dominance, and they end up fighting for superiority sometimes.

A cleat with the softest rubber “spikes” molded into the sole that you can find is a superb choice for what we do. Bite much better into gravel and soil than trail shoes like the Salamander shoes do, and as long as you avoid hard plastic or metal spikes you won’t go ice skating on wet wood floors or fault lines.

You’ll realize after building the first one that you don’t have to spend all that money if you know what was and wasn’t worth the money, and what you can do other ways. I did, with my Stock 3.

@Trinimon this is normal. Tanfo triggers are absolute garbage out of the box.

<double tap>

You can do better than that if we’re going full retard on price. My PCC has a Brigand Arms on it now. $300 sure... but it’s only 4.6 ounces with the barrel nut.

This man nailed it. Order it with a strong mount, casefeeder, and roller handle. Add the rest as time and desire and budget permit. The first ammo I ever loaded was on a 650 with a casefeeder. I still use this press 10 years later. I still have all my fingers and zero blown-up guns.

The round impacting at the top of the front sight is the way to go for USPSA. The first time you need to shoot a 20yd head box or 40yd minipopper with the front post entirely covering your target, you will see why. That also is not a 6 o’clock hold, for the record. That’s done by bullseye shooters for a known target at a known distance. The round hits substantially above the entire sight picture in a 6 o’clock hold:

@HoMiE intersting. All of mine are probably 4 years old. What are you doing to them?

He sent a PM saying his load was smoky. Since PV is not supposed to be smoky, I had him pull a bullet, find damage, then dial his crimp die back until it barely removes all traces of belling and returns the rim to being straight. No more excessive smoke.

Pro tip: Buy the Berry’s boxes instead. The 9mm one has each hole a few thosandths larger which is a huge help, yet it plays nice with the hundo. But more importantly? It has an acual pin-style hinge! The lid swings open and stays flat on the table. It isn’t trying to curl back shut on your hand the entire time it’s open.

What gun?

The BSPS’s shipment evaporated in roughly 24 hours, I just saw:

Very much so! Can’t say I preferred the stock 2 when I tried it. They balance and recoil slightly differently, but I was used to the 3. A 2 just felt funny to me. Inside the USA where you can rip all the factory parts out and run superior aftermarket ones, there’s no reason to buy an Xtreme model of gun. If you shoot IPSC rather than USPSA, there is *every* reason to buy a Stock III Xtreme!

@Fasthenk65 yes, it’s because he doesn’t want your gun to potentially discharge if it’s dropped.

Tanfos have eaten questionably-seated CCI Magnums long before an extended firing pin came out. With reduced power springs and 6.5 pound triggers

The Holsun 510C is an incredibly good optic. I’m thrilled I chose it. Sure, one of their 503s or a similar Aimpoint microdot clone would be a pinch lighter, but you can’t beat the reticle and field of view for USPSA... and that is weight I don’t mind because it is well back behind your support hand near the COG of the rifle.

Or you can just do like Max Leograndis and put 6 lighter rounds in them in about .4 seconds. You know. Just shoot like a GM. Easy.

In reality you can stop at item 3) on @johnbu‘s list and have a really nice trigger. Find a gunsmith to mill the slide for a quality front sight, polish it and install afull compliment of springs, and *maybe* a one piece sear... and you have a really nice gun.

The standard PPQ frame is identical to the Q5’s frame.