MemphisMechanic

It’s a Bersa. As you can see, no one cares. ?

Wound up deciding to give one of these a try: Mobius Action Camera 1080P HD Mini Sports Cam - Standard Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DP1WYD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_og8rBbVFPVFDH There are a few videos out on YouTube of shooters using one, quality is more than acceptable for the price. I won’t use the GoPro nor any other 1st person camera with a fisheye lens simply due to they way they distort distance: targets look far away, and your movement appears much slower.

A wave spring with a single quarter on top of it makes all the difference in my CMMG guard with a similar setup, but that gun has a totally different non-blowback system from yours. Is the JP comp able to be opened up? My surefire comp came with two small ports. Drilled to 5/32” and life was good. Did this, and life is flat now. (Upward-facing ports are the ones on the left side and obviously hand-worked.)

Somewhere around 140pf still shoots incredibly flat, and I like having that extra bit of oomph to knock over poppers. Remember, you’re a grown adult shooting a 6 pound handgun off of your shoulder; there’s no reason to go for ultrasoft recoil as long as your gun shoots flat. I know for a fact that our PCC national champ and his shooting buddy who has won a few Area level matches and the like... both run ammo in that neighborhood. Find a load your gun shoots accurately and reliably then spend your time tuning the buffer and comp and spring system to make it shoot flat. How soft your ammo feels is irrelevant to your ability to shoot fast and straight.

@kneelingatlas is correct: You have to use a larger amount of a slow burn powder to get a bullet up to speed than a fast burner. However, the density of all fast burning powders also varies widely. 3.8 grains of titegroup or clays leaves enough space in the case for a second powder charge. 3.8 grains of WST, Sport Pistol, e3, or Solo1000 would fill the case to a level which would be impossible to miss. In some cases, the case will physically overflow on a double charge. Not all powders have the same density, even if they’re similar in burn rate and you need the same number of grains: A powder which looks like fine sand will occupy less of the case than one which consists of big, fluffy flakes. But. In general. I do agree with Atlas’s point.

I’ll speak up, since his intent seems incredibly obvious. @4n2t0 was simpy saying that seeing the proper powder level in each case is a great way to prevent a double charge or squib. Seeing it AND having it mechanically checked in case you miss one, is even more insurance against a double charge. Two layers of safety, versus one.

42.

So I should make a very very miniscule fortune in return for hours of labor cerakoting them black and “stainless” and blue and resell them to you all?

Your shot-calling should already have been good enough to let you shoot .15-.25 splits in 9mm minor with enough visual data to tell you where the second round was sent. Myself and my other A-through-GM production friends all do it consistently. It sounds like you never developed that skill and simply relied on grip and timing to get your second round near the Azone through trial and error. The good news is that now you have motivation to develop that skill, and excellent shotcalling skills will make competing at A class level much easier.

Sometimes a large portion of the fix is the simplest: Grip like a gorilla with your left (support) hand. Back when I was an “experienced” shooter way down at IDPA Expert level but thought I knew a great deal, I wasn’t using nearly enough grip with either hand. (For reference, an IDPA EX can barely make C class in USPSA.) ... but IDPA shooters don’t get the same level of instruction from GM-level guys on their squad, because we don’t have anyone at that skill level in IDPA. So education on this stuff suffers. What’s happening is that when you pull the trigger slowly, your right hand stays loose. When shooting fast you punch the trigger back with a sharp contraction, and the other three fingers of that hand contract sympathetically - torquing the gun. Grip very firmly with the strong hand (you already think you do. Double what you think firm is.) Grip just below enough force to lock your index finger up. With your bottom three fingers already squeezing tight around the grip, next time you won’t be able to contract them much more when punching the trigger twice fast on a 3 yd target. They’re already contracted. More importantly, try to crush your gun into a pancake with your weak hand. Crush grip. Break the bones in the dude’s hand that you’re shaking... whichever description like that works for you. This will clamp the gun into place hard enough that bad trigger habits don’t affect it quite as much. And even better, your group size on something like a bill drill will be half of what it was. The sights will stabilize between shots so much better because your wrists and forearms are tight, and the hands don’t allow any shifting of the gun. After you get your grip sorted, THEN work on pulling the trigger superfast and superdirty in dryfire... without your gun moving. But the grip adjustment comes first.

...usually. Solo1000 and Prima V have both had instances where they changed in velocity by nearly 10 percent at one point, when the lot # changed.

It’d be a problem. The Guard needs your mag positioned low enough to feed a 5.56 style bolt, not the much heavier AR9 blowback units. I welded and recut my colt mags to sit almost 1/8” lower in the gun with my hybrid Guard / colt mag setup.

Think about truly bringing the gun up to your cheek, and not your cheek down onto the gun. That’s the concept behind it.

If you could make it work with a Guard bolt & barrel you actually wouldn’t.

@RaCzech I do it sometimes. Just make sure you flick the safety on. Oh, and register for the match in Limited.

That’s exactly what they’re for. Accurate. Information.

His gun was illegal under the old rules. No aftermarket hammers were allowed, yet he suggests you run one which looks factory... Just like the guy running a CGW lookalike hammer at 2017 nationals who got bumped to Open and raised holy hell because he’d been shooting it at Majors for years. He finally loaded up in front of an RO who knows CZ really, really well. That’s how the old rules worked: you could run lookalike parts and get away with it. But they were illegal the entire time.

I sounded condescending because it isn’t my job to do the research for you. Neither I nor anyone else on this forum has any obligation to do the research for anyone discussing the 2017 rules, in 2018. When you’re informed that your information is incorrect, it’s on you to do the research and verify who is correct. No one else.

Production doesn’t work this way anymore. You can now run a hot pink anodized flat trigger in a Glock. Any trigger, safety, hammer, or other external part that you like in your CZ/Tanfo/Bersa/AREX. The rules changed in May, things are much less strict now. Debate was all over these forums for months prior to the rules taking effect, yet it seems many of you still don’t know about the ‘rules adjustment.’

Hater.

It was. A friend on this forum is a mid to high M in Production. He re-ran his scores on all of his claissifiers; if he’d shot them after the switch he would be down in A class right now.

We use them for two reasons: the first is a pinch more weight to help empty mags fall more quickly. More importantly? Better ergonomics when it comes to drawing a mag with a good engagement with the heel of your palm. So they index and seat consistently. However, practicing reloads at home several nights a week will make you much faster than new basepads will. It’s free too. Just not as sexy.

At least we know frames exist...

One 6 pound pull per stage is 32 times less of a factor than all of them weighing 6 pounds. I triple checked.

If you’re both pinning the trigger and shooting a specific cadence then I would enjoy watching you shoot a tight group at 25 yards in person. Because you’d be the first one I’ve seen who uses those practices who can shoot straight. Ever.