MemphisMechanic

Power Pistol is made by Alliant. You have the wrong powder - go buy the right stuff!

These break a lot. FYI.

@Jeremyc_1999 reloads with an AK suck due to the location of the mag catch. I am fond of my AKs, but let’s be real here. The guys at the top level in PCC are loading at speeds like this. You’re not gonna hit that with an AK or a bullpup with the magwell back in your armpit:

It is not. Watch the pros shoot on youtube. At that distance on such a target they’ll be much much slower than that. Even on a MUCH closer 15 yard plate rack, you’re being mindful to work the trigger smoothly no matter how good you get.

@B585 listen to this. It’s on the money. @IHAVEGAS has a similarly great point about calling your shots being what you need to focus on, but first you have to shoot enough that you stop blinking when the gun fires so that you can see the front sight lift in recoil. Combining those, I’d suggest learning to grip the gun really Really REALLY REALLY hard is the most important thing you can work on.

Here’s an important thing to know right off the bat. You never grow out of that. There’s no “meantime” here. Experienced shooters will typically tell you they have 3 types of aiming: * Target focused through the sights * Blurry target but not razor sharp sight picture * Find the corners, crisp front blade, get it perfect. The same is true for trigger presses: * slap it as fast as you can work it, up close * smooth press, keep the gun still, at distance What happens as you progress is that you can do ALL OF THOSE THINGS much faster. What you percieve as a pretty sporty double-tap with .25-.30 between shots? That is something a GM can aim very precisely at abot 15 yards. Keep doing what you’re doing. You’re on the right track.

Well, because... ...doesn’t matter. It’s a triggergimmick that doesn’t make the gun handle the slightest bit diferently. Save the $200 worth of parts.

Are you guys shooting wheelguns? I’m having a hard time figuring out how so many USPSA types are obsessed with Federals; add a single pount of weight to your trigger pull in DA/SA guns and they’ll run Winchesters all day long.

If LRBHO is important to you, you might look into building a Colt mag gun. They’re designed to activate the AR bolt catch; the back of the follower pushes straight up on it instead of requiring a complex linkage from the left front corner of the magazine.

Don’t slam mags into your gun. Modify the slide stop and notch in the slide so that the slide falls with a “normally firm” seat.

It’s not important for 100 percent, I’d say. The first dozen or so years of Production, Glock dominated. Then Ben came along with a Beretta and won, switched to Tanfo, and began crushing souls. Suddenly the polymer guns are a fool’s errand and CZ/Tanfo are “required” to be an M class guy? Our fastest production M is an 18 year old with a 4” M&P locally. Guys like @wtturn are dominant at the Area match level with stock Glocks. Shane Coley and Bob Vogelbot win nationally with Glocks. Not because Ben or Coley or Vogel are super humans. They put in the most work. Whomever practices the best and longest, wins. I’m just some midpack A-class guy, but I know the firearm isn’t secret sauce to counteract that.

Wrap the hammer & beavertail 2/3s of the way cocked with tape. It doesn’t have the break, but you can minic the exact travel of your trigger in SA. I did all my tanfo dryfire that way, except for DA draws from the holster.

To be a higher tier shooter? Stick with a Glock and keep practicing. (Limited Nationals was won with a Glock this year.) My classification percentage has gone up since I ditched my Tanfoglio and went back to polymer for a Walther. The gun has nothing to do with the reason why. If you switch? Switch to a gun you like shooting and practicing with. And expect some headaches and frustration for a few months; Tanfos don’t run with light triggers right out of the box until you learn to polish the internals right, and how to reload for them.

If I build another Tanfo it will run the factory hammer and disconnector.

Put a few hundred rounds through it. Order Patriot’s springs for the firing pin, trigger, and sear, along with a single piece sear. You’ll see where you need to do additional polishing, based on where the wear marks are. Shine her up and drop the rest of the parts in. Call her done.

Hahaha... I mentioned this in thevideo for sure. Always watch the entire process THEN step through it. Oops.

@tanks why are you only splitting at .21 in that situation? The purpose of working on something so close and dirty is 100% to focus on hosing speed. (Looking for .8 to 1.0 on the draw and to be down in the teens on the splits.) You’re running through the drill with your comfortable 7-10 yard speed and mindset, and then posting that it wasn’t worth your time... of course it wasn’t. This stuff is teaching you to find another faster gear to downshift into when things get super hose-y in matches, which means you have to begin by shooting slightly out of control. Rip the gun from the holster with a solid grip, hang on hard, and look through the gun at the target while working the trigger faster than you ever have.

Search on this; there was a detailed thread about it. Long story short, same gun with a new name from Tanfoglio. If I recall correctly.

Will it be enough fun to be worth the cost? Absolutely! Some guys make their desire to improve so fundamental that they forget how much they simply loved shooting at the very beginning. Don’t try to win. Try to have fun and learn the basics.

For most guys, going clickclickclickclickclickclick at the same cadence every time while trying to get the gun cleanly across 3 A zones... That is their procedure in dyfire. Given Brian’s post, wouldn’t it make more sense to run the sights across the three targets and “click” each time you see them in the A zone, and ONLY when you see them in the A zone? It’s what you want to do in a match, after all. His whole point is that both of these approaches can be done in the same amount of time, they just have very different results.

@Ludde switch to a coated or FMJ bullet for 500 rounds or so. I bet it goes away. Plated bullets are rather notorious for tumbling when better bullets (either of the other two options) will not. And with all the bullets you load, reduce your crimp setting. As soon as the case walls are visibly straight again, and your ammo case gauges 100% stop there. Less is more.

@Ludde switch to a coated or FMJ bullet for 500 rounds or so. I bet it goes away. Plated bullets are rather notorious for tumbling when better bullets (either of the other two options) will not.

Using a beer-can grip and seating the magazine with the rifle shouldered, I find 30rd colt magazine is vastly easier to load than a shorter 20rd mag. If you drop the gun and roll it over, and prefer to load the mags with an index-finger-down-front grip, then I can see the preference for shorter mags. My experimentation here is based upon watching what the national champ does: exp

Return the recoil system to stock and see if it goes away. On any AR, bolt speed seems to be a big factor in ejection. Then add one modified part at a time until you find the thing that makes the gun choke.