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Springfield prodigy-a short-term review


RJH

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26 minutes ago, Douglee25 said:

You mean under sprung?  I thought most were going with a larger spring on the 5"?

 

Does the profile on the disco require some slight chamfering? 

No, I'm getting barrel dip when I double tap. It feels like a 12 or 13 lbs recoil spring. I run a 10 in my 9mm single stack with the same ammo (also a Springfield). I would guess that SA starting putting in a heavier recoil spring after the issues with the 5". The disco needs some stoning for sure. 

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5 minutes ago, cindynles said:

No, I'm getting barrel dip when I double tap. It feels like a 12 or 13 lbs recoil spring. I run a 10 in my 9mm single stack with the same ammo (also a Springfield). I would guess that SA starting putting in a heavier recoil spring after the issues with the 5". The disco needs some stoning for sure. 

 

10-4.

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2 hours ago, cindynles said:

No, I'm getting barrel dip when I double tap. It feels like a 12 or 13 lbs recoil spring. I run a 10 in my 9mm single stack with the same ammo (also a Springfield). I would guess that SA starting putting in a heavier recoil spring after the issues with the 5". The disco needs some stoning for sure. 

 

That makes sense I guess. Everything I'd read said they seemed to have really light recoil springs. I can see them thinking it'd be way easier to just stick in a heavy recoil spring instead of trying to clean up what ever is going on with the disconnector. 

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I have a 4.25 and a 5”. I’ve heard that triggers can be hit or miss. I got 1 hit and one miss. The 4.25 was 5+ with creep. The 5” was good at just under 4 and crisp.The creep worked out of the 4.25” and a C&S sear spring brought it down to about same as 5”. Both functioned fine but may drop to 10# recoil in 5” for my game loads.  Felt no more “bump” in the disconnector of either gun than any other new 1911 I’ve ever had. 

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I have both, the 4.25 was decent and just needed so tuning of the thumb safety and light oil. The 5 was a different story, the trigger was crap and had a lot of feet and return to battery problems. The two main issues I found (well other than replacing the hammer/sear) was the chamber on the 5 was absolute SAMMI min so I reamed it, that got rid of most of the feed problems. The last thing, the slide felt sluggish and I thought it was under sprung, it was just the finish on the slide and rails. I oiled it up and racked the slide continually while wiping off the Cerakote that kept coming off and reoiling. I though of using garnet but didn't really have to. After a half hour or so it slicked right up and now is 100%.

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Got mine back from the trigger job. I told my guy to just get it as light as he felt comfortable, that I wasn't looking for super light. He got it down to two and three quarter pounds and nice and crisp all with the factory components. I'm sure with higher end components the trigger weight could drop quite a bit, but I'm pretty happy with that. My 1911 I shoot all the time is in that range and so this feels like home. I plan on using the gun like it is until something breaks and then I'll put better components in it. But with running minor ammo that might be a while

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1 hour ago, FALAR said:

With Springfield's reputation for low quality low cost MIM parts with shallow heat treating, I wonder how long a gun with a trigger job could be expected to last?

 

I'm not an expert in mim parts, but I've had a couple of their 1911s with trigger jobs on the factory parts and put over 10,000 rounds through them. One might have been closer to 20. 

 

I think a lot of the mim worry is unwarranted 

 

Have you personally seen many of their mim parts break? I don't think I have 

 

 

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1 hour ago, RJH said:

 

I'm not an expert in mim parts, but I've had a couple of their 1911s with trigger jobs on the factory parts and put over 10,000 rounds through them. One might have been closer to 20. 

 

I think a lot of the mim worry is unwarranted 

 

Have you personally seen many of their mim parts break? I don't think I have 

 

 

 

In person, no.

 

Pics of broken extractors on forums, yes.

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23 minutes ago, FALAR said:

 

In person, no.

 

Pics of broken extractors on forums, yes.

 

I don't stress over that much. Hell, I seen a factory Glock firing pin break, in person. But I figure most of them don't. 

 

If an extractor breaks I'll put a new one in and move on. I think it is less of an issue than many people want to believe it is. But I can only speak to the Springfields I have had and none have broken any parts

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So I picked mine up the other day. It's not bad.

 

My chamber seemed good, I don't get the disconnector drag that some have complained about online. The thumb safety is a little cheesy but it's working fine. The grip seems cheaper than a poly grip on a STI, but again I think it'll work fine. I've got 100 rounds in the car, hitting the range on the way home from work to test it. These are light IDPA CCP loads 117 PF in a 4" gun. So, it should feel nice and soft lol. 

 

I tweaked the sear spring a little and set my trigger to about 3 lbs. I was really shooting for 3.5 but figured this would be fine. 

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I bought one this weekend: it ran for me, but I could hang the slide on the disco.  The reset was hitchy, too. My daughter and her friend couldn't get it to run. 

A few strokes of a diamond file, and some polishing and it no longer hangs . The slide and reset are exponentially smoother.  I also upped the recoil spring to 14.  I felt the slide was slamming back and sluggish on return.  Between the tiny bit of finish work and the spring these issues disappeared. 

  I do not like any Ambi safety.  They always hit my trigger finger knuckle.  All my 1911 single or double, have a Wilson Combat wide single side safety: will the Springer accept "normal" 1911 parts?

Has anyone put on the EGW magwells?

Thanks!

Jason

 

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Regular 1911 safeties (thumb & grip-- depending on profile) can be fitted as usual.  As a lefty, I grind out the left side thumb safety to miss my knuckle.  I briefly tried installing a new mainspring housing but that was going to require more work, and I didn't investigate why.  An old small STI magwell in my parts bin fit ok.

 

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Ok fellas, mine is done! 
- Cheely L2 Grip, steel. 
- Cheely Tactical mag well, steel (a total B1tch to hand fit) 

- Grip is Cerakote Armorer Black with Fx Ranger top coat

- Trijicon SRO 5 MoA

- Atlas high ride/shielded thumb safety 

- Atlas tool-less guide rod, 8# spring 

- Infinity trigger (small flat shoe) I have a Red Dirt on standby. 

- Kept all the MIM internals for now just to put them to the test. (trigger at 1.25-ish#) 


Things I learned along the way: 

(Results may vary) 

- Prodigy trigger bow is longer than most others I compared it to.  So other bows/triggers might/probably not work in a Prodigy grip.

 

- Swap grip module and you can run what you want internally but prodigy trigger bow might not work in them.  (Too long) 
 

- Sear spring is specific to Prodigy (remember that when ordering parts).  
 

- EGW internals kit is a Prodigy specific. 
(Remember that when ordering)

 

- Infinity trigger will NOT work in Prodigy grip modules. (Call them and they will confirm this). 
 

- The frame screws on the trigger guard/grip module are fatter than say: STI/everyone else, they won’t work on swapped out grip modules.  You’ll need a new set. 
 

- Prodigy grip module doesn’t fit STI/SVI DAA Race Master holster blocks (Cheely grip does but may be overly tight for a while). 
 

- Trijicon does not provide the correct length screws to mount the SRO/RMR to the optic mount.  You’ll need to grind the screws down or buy the correct length screws on Trijicon’s site.  


- Nitro Fins don’t fit the Prodigy (someone please start making one!!!) 

 

Shoots great, only time will tell.  

Good luck.  Any questions hit me up.  

 

B012C79C-37D4-4E24-8748-892CD84EFD7B.jpeg

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